492 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Jane 17, 1886, 
to Lord Bagofc, second with, the same variety, and Mr. Mclndoe third, also 
staging the same. For one scarlet-fleshed Melon a good number of fruit 
were exhibited. Mr. G. T. Miles was first with a handsome fruit of Scarlet 
Hybid. Mr. Mclndoe followed with Scarlet Premier, and Mr. J. Hare, 
gardener to R. H. 0. Neville, Esq., Grantham, third with a seedling. For 
one green-fleshed kind an equal number of fruits were staged. Mr. G. T. 
Miles was successful with Burghley Pet, Mr. Hare second with Dell’s 
Hybrid, and Mr. Mclndoe third with Best of All. For one dish of Cherries 
some really fine fruit was staged. Mr. Hare took the lead with Black 
Tartarian, followed by Mr. Miles with Elton. For one dish of Strawberries 
some very large fine fruit was staged. Mr. P. Paine, gardener to Captain 
Dixon, Chelford, was deservedly placed first with handsome la-gs fruit of 
President. Mr. R. Davies second with La Grosse Sucrhe, and Mr. Miles third 
with Sir Joseph Paxton. Strawberries in pots were wonderfully fine, 
especially the twelve pots staged by Mr. G. Malcolm, gardener to J. 
Tomkinson, Esq., the variety being Cambrian, and most of the plants 
carried over twenty large fruits, some of them from twenty-five to thirty. 
Mr. R. Davies was placed second with a creditable collection, and Mr. W. B. 
Upjohn, gardener to the Earl of Ellesmere, Worsley Hall, third. 
Miscellaneous Exhibits. —These were very numerous, and added 
materially to the beauty of the Exhibition. In the large exhibition house 
Mr. B. S. Williams contributed a very large collection of decorative, flower¬ 
ing, and foliage, including many Orchids in small pots amongst the former. 
This was a very striking and effective group of plants. Messrs. Sander 
and Co. contributed a collection of various Orchids in flower in from 5 to 
7-inch pots, effectively arranged with Adiantum cuneatum. The Horti¬ 
cultural Company (John Cowan), Garston, Liverpool, contributed a similar 
group, but Dendrobiums predominated, while Cattleyas and Odontoglossums 
were the leading feature of the former group. Messrs. R. P. Ker & Sons 
staged a choice collection of Crotons, Dracsenas, interspersed with Palms 
and Ferns and small decorative flowering plants. Messrs. W. <fc J. Bir¬ 
kenhead added to the Exhibition by a co’l ction of hardy and exotic Ferns 
in good condition and variety. Messrs. W. Cutbush & Sons, Highgat“, 
London, had a very large collection of Ericas, Pimeleas, and other hard- 
wooded plants, with Palms, Ferns, and other foliage plants freely inter¬ 
mixed. Messrs. R. Smith & Co., St. John’s, Worcester, Btaged Clematis, 
large trained plants, amongst thtm being their new bedding variety, which 
appears to produce both single and double flowers. This is named Beauty 
•of Worcester. The most effective and interesting portion of this group 
being a large number of Clematis in 4-inch pots, producing one or two large 
flowers each, and not more than 1 foot to 18 inches high. Mr. B. S. 
Williams also staged two fruits of his new Melon Harefield Grove, which 
has a good appearance, and resembles Cox’s Golden Gem. Messrs. Dickson, 
Brown, & Tait staged a large fruit of a Melon named Penrhyn Seedling, 
which received a certificate at thi3 Society’s Show last year. It is a large 
fruit, said to weigh from 4 to 9 lbs., and to be ten days earlier than Cox’s 
Golden Gem, which is one of its parents. Both the flavour and appearance 
are good, and the Judges awarded it a first-class certificate. Mr. B. S. 
Williams also staged a dish of fine fruit of his new Tomato Harefield 
Golden Gem. Mr. S. Robinson, florist, Sale, contributed large boxes of 
Anthericum liliastrum, and Mrs. Eliza Mellor a collection of alpines; 
Messrs. J. Waterer & Sons a large collection of Acers and Rhododendrons, 
also Golden Queen Hollies, but these were arranged at the entrance of the 
tents ; Mr. J. Hcoley, Edgely Road, Stockport, contributed a large col¬ 
lection of Hollies, Conifers, and Rhododendrons. The two groups to the 
entrance of the large tent from this firm were very effective. Messrs. Back¬ 
house & Sons of York added wonderfully to the interest of the tent in 
which the alpines were arranged by a large, varied, and interesting col¬ 
lection of these plants, and for which the Society’s silver medal was 
deservedly awarded. Mr. G. W. Yates, Eaton Norris, Manchester, also 
etaged effective groups of Rhododendrons. 
STRAWBERRIES AFTER FORCING. 
Strawberry forcing is now over. As a rule the plants are turned 
out in frames or into the open air after all the fruit has been gathered 
from them, and they often remain until they are covered with insects, 
which take possession of other plants, and mischief follows. It is gene¬ 
rally intended to do something with the Strawberry plants—plant them 
out to fruit in the autumn or to secure early runners from them—but 
they are more often neglected and allowed to become so dry at the root 
as to become a pest as suggested, then they are thrown away. I am not in 
favour of retaining Strawberry plants for any purpose. I have tried the 
planting out with various objects in view, but with no advantage. 1 have 
also seen large quantities planted out, but never learned of satisfactory 
results. Plants which fruit again in autumn are few, and as for supplying 
early runners, any good plantation will do this as early as they are 
wanted. As soon as our Strawberry plants have given up their crop 
they are at once thrown away, and the space they occupied, as well as the 
pots they were in, are filled with more profitable crops than the old 
plants. We secure our earliest runners from plantations in the kitchen 
garden from the middle to the end of June; the plants have then four 
months in which to grow and mature, and they are equally as good and 
satisfactory as any from old pot plants.—A Gaudeneb. 
ARAUCARIA IMBRICATA. 
In my garden there is an Araucaria which has been planted about 
twenty years. It is about 20 feet high, 15 feet bough from bougb, and 
grown very evenly from top to bottom ; but what I believe is not a 
common thing is that it is bearing “cones” or seed. I enclose you 
photo of the tree, but as it is only taken by an amateur it is not very 
good. Any information you can give me in the matter I should be glad 
to receive. The tree cun be seen at any time at Woodlands, Black FeD, 
near Eltham, Kent.—W. P. Sanderson. 
[We are obliged for the photo, but a much finer specimen, from 
Veitch’s “ Manual of the Conifer®,” was represented in our columns in 
1881, page 171, volume ix., New Series. See answer to a correspondent 
on another page.J 
FORCING VIOLETS. 
Forcing, though a term sometimes applied to Violets, is hardly appli¬ 
cable, as with a proper preparation and treatment of the plants bloom can 
hardly fail to be forthcoming in due season, or from September to April, 
or a month earlier or later according to the season or variety. We have 
gathered Violet flowers in every month of the year, but they are net of 
so much account after Pinks, Cloves, and other Carnations with Roses 
become plentiful, anl to have Violets in season, or from September to 
April inclusive, is one of their greatest charms—viz., their great continu¬ 
ance, value being estimated by what is liked best and enjoyed longest. 
Violets yield to no other flower in that respect, and meet the requirements 
of all classes. 
To force Violets it is essential that they be grown as advised for those 
in frames, and that they be established in frames, pits, or pots. If in pits 
there is no difficulty in keeping up a supply of flowers with a number of 
plants adequate to the demand for flowers, and the means of affording 
heat so as to insure flowers independent of the weather. A high tempera¬ 
ture is not necessary ; air is highly important, in fact the most important 
element in Violet culture, and moisture is equally essential. Air, moisture, 
and sufficient warmth to insure the development of the blooms is all that 
is required, with all the light practicable. Air constantly, and a tempera¬ 
ture of 50° artificially, is ample. A higher temperature from sun heat 
will not matter provided it be accompanied by an increase of ventilation, 
and at night 40° to 45°. Higher temperatures elongate the leaves and 
flower stems unduly, and give them a weak, attenuated, and unpleasant 
appearance. 
Plants in pots are easily brought into flower placed on shelves, or 
preferably on a damp base, as that of cocoa-nut refuse or ashes kept wet, 
and well up to the glass in a light airy house in which a tempsrature of 
45° to 50° by artificial means is secured, and advancing to 65° from sun 
heat with abundance of air. A succession of fresh plants introduced at 
intervals in accordance with the demand of individual establishments will 
insure an unbroken supply, the plants being drafted from cold frames 
protected in severe weather, so as to be always available for the purpose at 
fortnightly intervals, or as required. 
Everyone has not command of a greenhouse or forcing house. The 
best way to have Violets in such oases is to grow the plants in frames, 
they having been grown for the purpose in the open ground in summer. 
A warm sunny situation should be chosen for the frame, and a foundation 
of faggots formed for it to stand on, so that the heat of the materials 
employed may pass under the bed by the faggots, the heat being afforded 
by fermenting materials in the form of linings, in which way it can be 
added to or renewed according to the state of the weather. The faggots 
should form a base cross-wise to the frame of about 2 feet high, and the 
exact size or a little more than the frame. A layer of rather rough spent 
litter should be placed on the faggots about 6 inches thick, and then the 
frame on that. Put in a layer of leaf soil or well decayed manure 
3 inches thick, and then the compost for packing the plants as indicated 
in the article on “ Violets in Frames.” The plants should be put in their 
forcing quarters by the end of September, and kept duly supplied with 
water. The lights need not be used until frost, and by the time growth 
is stayed naturally artificial means must be set to work to maintain it. 
This may occur early in November, but by the middle of that month 
sufficient tree leaves with a fourth part of stable litter should be mixed 
and placed loosely all round the bed and to the height of the base of the 
frame, and these can he made firm and added to as the heat becomes 
necessary, there being no difficulty in regulating it to the greatest nicety 
by turning one or more of the linings, and adding fresh material at any 
time, and the warmth will pass into the faggot 0 , diffusing itself through 
them, and being absorbed by the bed over them. The Violet roots soon 
feel the warmth, the imoetus given them is transmitted to the flower bnds 
and flowers, and the flowers come unusually fine and over a lengthened 
period. Air must be admitted freely on ail favourable occasions, and a 
little air admitted constantly by tilting the lights at back will allow of 
superfluous moisture escaping. Avoid cold currents of air, as it chills 
and stunts the expanding flowers, but a close atmosphere must he avoided, 
and though protection over the lights will be necessary in very severe 
weather it must not remain on longer than is absolutely necessary. Sharp 
frosts, sudden heats, close confinement, and inattention ruin Violets. 
The best varieties for forcing are the Neapolitan varieties :—New 
York, Marie Louise, De Pirme, White Neapolitan, and old Neapolitan. 
Growing Violets in Moss for Filling Flower Boxes, Table Decorations, 
Sfc .—Large plants may be had by lifting well-grown plants carefully and 
removing all the soil from the roots. If it adheres very closely to them 
wash it off. Remove any had leaves, and with some wood moss freed 
from leaves, sticks, and rubbish, and washed clean, take a handful of 
charcoal and wrap it in a little moss. Take the plant in the left hand, 
and plant so that the roots will spread evenly over the ball of char¬ 
coal and moss, forming into a ball, and cover the roots neatly with mo-s, 
and secure with fine galvanised wire. Immerse in water, and pack in 
boxes of about 3 inches depth, with holes at bottom to allow superfluous 
moisture to drain off. The plants can be placed either in the boxes or 
close together on slate shelves in a house with a temperature of 40° to 45° 
at night, and 50° by day artificially, and sprinkled each morning, they will 
soon be sufficiently advanced for use in the house. Such, from their less 
weight, are much better than plants lilted with balls of earth and mossed, 
