Jane 17, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
495 
less liable to suffer than those subject to the sun and drying in¬ 
fluence of the atmosphere. Many plants, such as Roses, 
Prunuses, Lilacs, Solanums, Callas, Bonvardias, and many others 
will bear not only being plunged to the rim of their pots, but 
the pots and surface of the soil may be covered. This is a much 
better system than plunging merely to the rim, for it prevents 
evaporat on, and the soil will remain moist for a long time. If 
the plants have just been watered, or the soil is moist when 
they are plunged, they will need no water for a long time pro¬ 
vided they are well syringed daily, and the surface of the plung¬ 
ing material kept moist. In addition to this system saving days, 
and in the end weeks of labour, the plants will remain healthy. 
No system that we have yet practised has kept the soil about 
the roots in that uniform condition so long as plunging the 
pots entirely, and not the slightest injury to the plants will 
result. It may be argued that Solanums, Callas, Salvias, 
Bouvardias, and such plants would receive a serious check when 
they had to be removed if they rooted through the pots into the 
plunging material. Cultivators need not be alarmed at a few 
roots getting out of the pots, for if the plants are carefully 
treated no harm will follow. Plants such as indicated can be 
lifted from the open ground and repotted without any apparent 
injury, for the roots are not mutilated to such an extent by 
removing the few outside as what they are by the lifting system. 
After they are lifted out if soaked with water, placed behind 
a north wall, and kept well syringed for ten days or a fort¬ 
night, they will stand in any position afterwards. 
The system of burying the pots should commend itself to 
all who wish to save labour in watering, have healthy instead 
of sickly plants, and reduce to a minimum the care and responsi¬ 
bility of production.— Wm. Bardney. 
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WORK.F0fl.THE WEEK.. O 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Notwithstanding a cold late spring and frosts Dight after night in 
May, and even in the present month, the fruit crop both of Peaches and 
Nectarines is a full one. Never did we see the fruit set and swell more 
freely, and it has required some resolution to thin it sufficiently to insure 
fine fruit. The foliage is singularly free from blister, only two or three 
trees being slightly affected by it, and we have now the pleasant task of 
the selection of fruiting wood for another season from a clean sturdy un¬ 
checked spring growth, and the certainty of fully developed well-ripened 
wood in autumn. Again we say avoid overcropping, avoid crowded wood 
growth, retain only enough wood to fill wall space or to bear fruit. Not 
one shoot more should we suffer to remain upon the trees than we require 
for either purp se. After the disbudding has been done do not indulge in 
rash pinching of the growth of young trees, but rather do all you can to 
encourage free unchecked growth. When the young wood of old trees has 
a tendency to put forth sub-laterals much good may be done by pinching 
the sub-laterals and cutting off half of each leaf growing near the base of 
such untimely growth. If this shortening of the foliage can be done 
when we notice the first symptoms of sub-lateral growth we should by 
checking the flow of sap do much to prevent it. Sound judgment, 
common sense, and we may add prescience of development, are certainly 
highly important qualifications m those who undertake the culture of 
Peaches and Nectarines. We should know what is possible in the de¬ 
velopment of wood growth, foliage, bloseom, and fruit. A glance at the 
condition of a tree should enable us to see whether ordinary, moderate, or 
hard pruning is necessary to promote that end and aim of good culture, 
robust wcod growth and fine fruit. It is now that we are best able to 
decide how each tree should be pruned next winter, and there should be 
no hesitation in marking all trees ot weak growth for a severe course of 
treatment then. Experience has shown that a Peach tree is naturally as 
elastic as a Grape Vine, its wmderful reeup“! alive power enabling us to 
restore the pristine vigour of trees apparently worn out by hard cropping 
or other improper treatment. 
See to the timely training of the new growth of all young fruit trees, 
taking care to fasten the shoots loosely, so as to allow space for swelling 
growth. Destroy caterpillars, of which many may be found feeding upon 
the foliage of dwarf Apple trees at this season of the year. Aphides 
attacking the shoots of Cherry trees should be destroyed by sponging or 
dipping the shoots in a strong infusion of tobacco, the trees being after¬ 
wards syringed with clean water. Continue the use of sewage freely to 
assist the swelling fruit. In doing this do not be satisfied with mere 
surface wetting, but take care that enough is given each time to reach 
the whole of the r jots. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Late Homes—Thinning .—However pressing other matters, 
there must not be any delay in thinning late Grapes, and in order to, 
secure large and highly finished berries, thin them well, especially in the 
interior of the bunches, leaving the larger-berried varieties, such as Gros 
Colman, Gros Guillaume, &c., about an inch apart, the oval-berried 
varieties not requiring so much room as the round ones, but all should 
be so thinned that they will have space for swelling fully without wedging, 
and yet be so close that when dished they will retain their form. Loose 
bunches that show the footstalks, however fine the berries, are not so pleas¬ 
ing in appearance as more compact bunches. Black Morocco and other shy 
setters are often thin of berries through the number of stoneless ones that 
must be removed, to guard against which no pains should he spared in 
getting the wood ripe, and in fertilising the bunches when in flower with 
pollen from Black Hamburgh. Not only is it necessary to thin the 
berries, but the bunches must be reduced to that number which their size 
and condition of the Vines warrant as likely to finish satisfactorily. If 
an error is made let it be on the safe side, as Vines that are overburdened 
never finish their fruit well, and it is inferior in keeping qualities. 
Watering. —The inside borders should be well supplied with tepid 
water, following in the case of Vines that are carrying full crops and in 
good but not too vigorous health with thicker liquid manure, also in a 
tepid state, mulching with short material, which kept moist will give out 
ammonia and attract the roots to the surface. To allow the border to get 
dry at the surface causes the roots to strike down in quest of moisture, 
the crops finish badly, the wood does not ripen well, and the consequence 
is the Vines start badly; the bunches instead of elongating, curl, twist, 
and wither, or if they escape that, the bunches are often spoiled through 
shanking. Neglect in watering borders that are well drained, as all Vine 
borders should be, and mulching, especially where the Vines are carrying 
a heavy crop, is not only disastrous to the present crop, through inducing 
attacks of red spider and premature ripening of the foliage, but injuriously 
affects next year’s crop of fruit. Outside borders will only need mulching, 
as the recent ra ns have moistened them well, but if dry, a soaking of 
tepid liquid should be given whenever necessary. 
Firing and Ventilating. —Cold nights render fires still necessary, it 
being a great mistake to let the fires out now and have to fire hard later 
on when the sun has less power to ripen the fruit. All late Grapes thrive 
best in a high temperature with abundant food both at the roots and in 
the atmosphere. Fires should be employed to maintain a night tempera¬ 
ture of 65° and 70° to 75° by day in dull weather. Admit a little air 
early, a little at the top of the house constantly, increasing the ventilation 
with the temperature, allowing an advance to 85° or 90°, at which keep 
them through the day from sun heat, reducing the ventilation with the 
declining sun. Close at 85°, damping the paths, &c., well then, and 
again before nightfall. It is well to close for a short time, and afterwards 
admit a little air, which will prevent a vitiated atmosphere and allow the 
foliage drying in the morning by the time the sun acts powerfully. Late 
Grapes are generally backward this season, hence the desirability of 
making the most of sun heat and aiding with artificial. Avoid cold 
draughts or sudden depressions of temperature, as they cause rust. 
Regulating the Growths. —Allow all the foliage that can be exposed 
to light, but when the space is fairly covered with leaves keep the shoots 
closely pinched. An excess of foliage is not good, though it is often 
encouraged with a view to root-action, hut it is elaborated sap that builds 
up the structure of the Vine, the crop of the current year, and the wood 
and buds that give the fruit of the next. Foliage should be rather 
thinner in the case of white Grapes than in black, this more particularly 
applying to Muscats. Avoid large reductions of foliage at a time ; it 
only tends to cause shanking through the check given the roots. Keep 
the growths tied down from the glass, and so prevent scorching. Vines 
extending should be allowed to make as much lateral growth as practi¬ 
cable, always bearing in mind the wood on which fruit is to be borne 
next season must have full exposure for its foliage, as the principal leaves 
that elaborate the sap and transmit the assimilated matter that forms 
the buds at their base. The laterals from these having been stopped 
at the first joint, they may be allowed to ramble afterwards, subject to 
their not interfering with the access of light and air to the main leaves. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Early House. —The fruit will shortly 
be all gathered. Admit all the air possible day and night. If the roof 
lights are moveable take them off after the trees have had lull ventilation 
for a fortnight, and keep the foliage free from insects by forcible syring- 
ings. Softsoap, 3 ozs. to the gallon of rain water, will destroy red spider, 
aud if scale be present use petroleum, a wineglassful to 4 gallons of water, 
to which has been added half ounce of soda, and 4 ozs. softsoap thoroughly 
dissolved, keeping the petroleum well mixed with the water during its 
application. Keep the borders well watered, affording liquid manure to 
weakly trees, it helps them to plump the buds ; and mulch with short 
manure. Cut away the wood having borne fruit to the shoot at the base 
intended to fruit in its stead next year, unless such shoot is required for 
extension. If there be a superfluity of shoots remove them now, they only 
keep light and air from the principal foliage, and hinder cleansing opera¬ 
tions. Keep laterals and any gross shoots closely stopped. 
Houses of Ripening Fruit.— Trees with the fruit ripening must not 
be syringed, but a moderate moisture should be maintained until the 
fruit is ripe, and even when ripe an arid atmosphere should be avoided, as 
it is highly prejudicial to the foliage. Water must also be given the roots 
liberally. Admit air abundantly. In gathering Peaches great care is 
necessary, as the least pressure makes a mark and spoils their appear¬ 
ance. A piece of wadding should be held in the hand, and the fruit 
removed by gentle pressure, and then laid gently in a padded basket or 
tray. A cool and airy fruit-room is best place to keep Peaches and 
Nectarines after they are gathered. 
Trees Swelling their Crops.— Stoning being over, the trees will stand 
