Jane 24, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
511 
contains these notes, ani then each will possess two reliable guides.—A 
City Man. 
P.S.—The station given from the Central for Sefton Park at page 482 
last week should be St. Michael’s and not Mersey Road as stated. St. 
Michael’s is the next station to Otterspool, and should be substituted in 
the next paragraph for Mersey Road.—A. C. M. 
VIOLETS IN FRAMES. 
Thebe is no certainty of gathering blooms in autumn, winter, and 
spring without employing means that protect them from cold and wet, 
whilst admitting the full influence of light and air. Considering that half 
the year the plants require full exposure for the growth made and perfected 
outdoors, the situation should he open. Shelter is essential. A hedge of 
Privet, Holly, and Yew, about 4 feet high all round, will break the force 
of wind from whatever quarter ; but a clear space must be kept between 
the hedge and the beds equal in width to the height of the former, as 
hedges shade even on the sun side, and the Violet plants should be out¬ 
side the shadow caused by the hedge. Walls are the worst shelter 
conceivable for Violets, as they stop, not sift air, as hedges do. The site 
admixture of the ingredients, and be careful to choose dry weather for the 
operation. Turfy loam cannot always be had, so that material at com¬ 
mand must be utilised. The natural soil being light loam take four parts, 
add a part pulverised clay, chalk broken small a part, old cowdung a part, 
and incorporate thoroughly, adding a bushel of soot, and a similar quantity 
of wood ashes to every thirty of the compost, thoroughly mixing. Heavy 
soil in four parts should have one part added of lime rubble or burnt clay, 
a part horse manure or leaf soil, and half a part charred refuse. If 
deficient of grit, add half a part road scraping?. A bnshel of soot may be 
added to every thirly of the compost. Soils that are of medium texture- 
will only need an addition of a fifth part of thoroughly decayed farmyard 
manure and tome old lime rubble. To all, an addition of half-inch 
bones may be made, one part to thirty of the compost. 
Forming the Beds .—Secure the drainage with a thin layer of sods, grass 
side downwards, and sprinkle with crushed bones or calcined oyster shells, 
then introduce the compost. It should be put in evenly, and pressed down 
firmly, but it must be in such a condition as not to clog or adhere to the 
boots. The soil should be slightly raised in the centre,but not much, and 
need not be more than 9 inches deep. 
Preparing the Plants .—Success depends on the length of season (he 
Fig. 94.—Cboxteth. 
hould be high and dry. Plants grown on high ground are hardier, the 
growths more thoroughly solidified than those produced in low sites, where 
damp gathers soonest and remains longest. If not drained naturally it 
must be so artificially, so that water cannot lodge within 3 feet of the sur¬ 
face. Drainage insures the free percolation of water through the soil; rain 
enters it freely, sucking in air and life, adds 2° or 3° to the warmth of the 
soil, and aids in the preparation of food in an acceptable form for absorp¬ 
tion by the roots and concomitant assimilation by the plants. 
Arranging the Beds .—The ground should be disposed in beds with 
alleys or pathways between. The ends of the beds are best east and west 
if they are to be covered with lean-to or three-quarter span frames ; and 
the ends of the beds should be north and south if span-roofed frames are 
employed. The width of the beds must accord with that of the frames, 
and the alleys ought not to be less than 3 feet, and need not exceed 4 feet 
6 inches in width, even for the widest frames. The first named is suitable 
for beds of 4 feet wide, and the latter for those of G feet in width. If the 
beds are to be permanent, which is strongly advised, it is a capital plan to 
form the sides of brickwork, and 6 feet in width from outside to outside 
of the brickwork, so as to be covered with frames of that width. Where 
the ground is wet and low raise the beds four courses of bricks above the 
surrounding ground level. 
Compost .—Turfy yellow loam five parts, the top 3 inches being taken 
ofi with its turf in autumn and stacked grass side downwards, will be in 
good condition by spring ; thoroughly decayed manure one part, and old 
mortar rubbish, removing all pieces of wood, and breaking small so as to 
pass a sieve with 1-inch mesh. Chop the turf up moderately small, and 
incorporate the whole together, then add a bushel of soot to every thirty of 
the compost, and turn over a couple of times so as to insure the thorough 
plants have to make a full and free development of the crowns from wh’ch 
the blooms are produced. Unless these are formed in the previous 
summer blooms will be sought in vain, for, however good the treatment 
after, they, having no buds, are barren. To wait until May for suckers or 
runners is too late to get strong plants for flowering in autumn and 
through the winter. The proper way is to take up old stock that is past 
flowering and in good health, as sturdy stock only afford vigorous off¬ 
shoots, and part the plants, singling out and saving all the finest side 
shoots whether of sucker or runner kind, which, although having no 
roots at the time, soon make some if pricked out in pans or boxes and 
sto d where they get a gentle moist heat. As soon as this is effected they 
must have air to prevent weakness and drawing. Thi9 is readily accorded 
in a cold frame, but it mnd be protected from frost in cold weather, and 
the atmosphere kept so as to accord with the weather. The suckers or 
runners may be placed in frames when detached in light soil with a third 
of leaf soil intermixed as close as they can be put in without crowding, 
where they can be kept close for a time, shaded from bright sun, and 
sprinkled or syringed to maintain the leaves in a fresh condition. They 
should have air freely when rooted, and be gradually hardened until they 
are fit to plant in the prepared beds. The early part of March is a proper 
time to put in the suckers or runnerp, and by the close of April or early 
in May they will be fit to put out in the beds. When the stock is short 
suckers or runners may be taki n in December and January without lifting 
the plan s, taking them off those in frames and inserting round the sides 
of pots ; root them in gentle moist heat, and afterwards transfer to cooler 
quarters. Ordinarily a sufficient number of well-rooted tuckers can be bad 
from plants that have been covered with frames. Properly hardened off, 
these are eligib'e for planting as they will have acquired a tendency to 
