July 18, 1889. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
51 
stood that if the weather should be hot and dry instead of showery, we 
prefer using the liquids previously named, as they are of a cooler 
nature. 
Sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda are very dangerous, and 
should be applied with considerable caution. Any plant that is late, or 
has been topped late, will be pushed forward quickly if a pinch is given 
on the surface whilst raining—that is, if the cultivator has no better 
method of using it. I prefer putting a 6-inch potful into the hogshead 
when the other liquid is getting weak, and it is quite sa f e used in this 
manner. I continue using liquids until the blooms are cut, discon¬ 
tinuing only for a short time when the plants are first housed. 
The tops of the pots will be found to be a complete network of white 
healthy roots to the last, but strong stimulants in the last stages of 
growth should not be given—in fact, in no stage of growth, as it is much 
better to apply them weak and more frequently, as the plants derive 
more benefit than from occasional strong doses, and there is no risk of 
injurious results following. My advice on feeding the Chrysanthemum 
is to keep on the safe side, for over-feeding will bring the plant to a 
standstill for a long time, a quantity of the lower foliage will fail, 
and it is a question if the cultivator can get the plants right again 
during the season. 
STRINGING. 
Another matter we practise is syringing the plants three or four 
times a day during hot weather ; in the morning about ten, and again 
at noon, and often twice afterwards, and I am certain that the plants 
enjoy this treatment, for they are impatient of the burning sun and hot 
dry air, especially after a few dull days. This frequent syringing 
prevents the plants showing signs of distress, v, hich they would 
quickly do by the enormous evaporation taking place from their stems 
and leaves. 
WOOD RIPENING. 
I do not think this of much importance. If there is such a thing 
as wood ripening I should be glad to know how it is done. All I have 
found necessary is to let the sun and light reach the stems of the plants 
on all sides. If we are to place such importance on this ripening pro¬ 
cess how do the trained plants that are grown about Liverpool produce 
such fine blooms when they are trained half-cone shape, and the foliage 
completely covering the stems of the plants throughout the season 1 yet 
those plants produce blooms of such excellence that would do good 
service on first class stands. How does the wood ripening in this 
case come about ? For my part I fail to see it. I have been con¬ 
vinced for a long time that the secret lies in taking the bud at the 
proper time, and leaving the ripening to take care of itself. 
SECURING THE PLANTS. 
I advise one stake to be placed to each pot, the shoots to be slung to 
this and allowed to sway loose, and also a line of tar twine to be strained 
to posts (the height at which the line is to be placed can be judged 
according to the variety), higher in the middle of the row, and sloping 
down to each end. When the growths have reached 6 or 8 inches above 
the line they should all be tied at equal distances to it, which is much 
better than tying them to laths as some cultivators recommend. If the 
shoots should grow to the extent of needing further support they should 
again be slung to the stake above the line. I find this simple way of 
securing the plants handy at the time of housing, as the line can be 
cut, and as all shoots are secured to the stakes the plants can be quickly 
moved. 
MILDEW. 
If mildew has attacked the plants, which is often the case at this 
time, they should be laid on the ground and thoroughly syringed on the 
under side of the foliage with the following mixture : —A 3-inch potful 
of sulphur placed in a four-gallon can of rain water, and two wineglasses 
full of lemon oil, or a piece of softsoap about the size of a walnut. If 
the soap is boiled for ten minutes with about a quart of tobacco water 
6o much the better. 
HOUSING THE PLANTS. 
In placing the plants in the house we select those most advanced 
and place them at one end, where shade can be given if the weather 
should be bright, and the late ones in a house where heat can be applied 
if it should be needed. When the plants are accustomed to their new 
quarters the whole should be fumigated with tobacco smoke, for it is 
very difficult to destroy green fly when they establ ish themsel ves in the base 
of the petals. I have observed the plants “ sulk ” after housing, owing 
to the loss of night dews to which they have been accustomed outside, so 
we give all the air possible, and syringe the plants two or three times 
a day according to the weather. Feeding is also stopped for a few 
days. It will be noticed that the plants come to a standstill for a 
short time. It is therefore best to keep the foliage damp, and to let 
them have pretty well their own way for a few days. 
BLOOMS DAMPING. 
This is a most perplexing thing, and one that will not be readily 
fathomed. I have often often heard it attributed to over-feeding, but 
I fail to see how this comes about. Over-feeding practically paralyses 
the roots of the plants, and they cease to convey to the bloom the food 
necessary to develop it. This is often the cause of a bloom half ex¬ 
panding, and then refusing to fill up in the centre. I have for the 
purpose of over-feeding or gorging, if I may be permitted to term it, 
set plants apart for this purpose. The first effect is the lower leaves 
curling and turning brown at the points, and in the end they decay ■ 
and fall off. The flower will throw out a row or two of petals, but will 
never expand. If the damping evil is caused from the roots, how is it 
that a plant with three or flowers on it, one will damp and the others 
not ? I attribute damping to the gases that are carried in the air in: 
foggy and damp weather which settle upon the petals. The evil is done 
when two or three dull days are followed by the sun shining bright for 
an hour or so. I have observed it is always after this kind of weather 
that we lose our flowers ; rarely, if ever, have I experienced damping if 
the weather is at all frosty. 
No doubt some of you will have had some experience in using 
stable manure. When used too fresh and highly charged with 
ammonia in a Peach house when the trees are in flower, the bloom is 
destroyed and not a fruit will set. Again, if used in a house where 
Adiantum Ferns are growing, if the house is closed all the young 
fronds will be destroyed in one night, and I do not see why the same 
sort of thing should not take place in the flower of the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum ; and if sulphate of ammonia be sprinkled on the surface of the 
pot, and watered in, and the house closed, you will have the house 
reeking with ammonia, and this is no doubt one great cause of 
the evil, as the ammonia condensing on the petals of the flowers 
will be only too visible the first sunny day by holes being burnt 
in them. I am of opinion that if this damping is caused from the roots 
the petals would be affected at one end or the other, and not in the 
middle. I think we shall have to look to atmospheric influences rather 
than blame the Chrysanthemum for being such a gluttonous plant as to 
destroy its own flower through over-feeding. To illustrate what I 
have said regarding atmospheric influences, 1 once had a number of 
plants fully expanded in an outhouse, the door was opened to show 
some visitors the flowers, although only for a short time ; the result 
was in a few days all the flowers at the front were lost. It has, 
therefore, since been my practice to give no more air than is 
necessary during damp weather, and to have just sufficient heat 
in the pipes to keep the air in circulation—the temperature between 
40° and 50°; 5° or 10° more may be given for a short time to bring up 
those plants that are late, but it is not well to subject the opening 
flowers to too much heat for long, or it will spoil the colour and cause 
the petals to reflex. Plants that have the flowers fully expanded, 
and it is desirable to keep them for a short time, may with safety be 
placed in a dark dry outhouse. 
In conclusion, it is better to be a little early than late at show time, 
remembering that the bloom can be kept for a time either cut or on the 
plants. I often see flowers staged at some northern shows before the 
centre is grown out, which greatly reduces the blooms in height and 
sadly militates against the exhibitor’s chance of success. 
Mr. Tunnington was, on the motion of Mr. Newsham, seconded by 
Mr. Ledger, and supported by Messrs. Eadon, Jarvis, and cordially 
thanked for his paper, the several speakers pointing out how especially 
valuable were the speaker’s remarks, from first to last the interest in 
them being thoroughly sustained. 
GOOD HARDY FLOWERS. 
It may be of more than passing interest to some at least of you? 
readers to know which are the most useful and showy plants used in 
flower in the hardy herbaceous beds and borders, but as these are 
far too numerous to give in detail I will merely cite the best for 
general decorative purposes. 
POLEMONIUM RICHARDSONI. 
For some time past this has been sending forth its second crop of 
flowers this year; nor does even this exhaust its flowering, for when this 
is over a third will soon appear, a fact alone which should render it ex¬ 
tremely popular. It dies nearly to the ground annually, but commences 
growing early in spring, and soon the lovely azure blue spikes of flowers 
are produced. These in the first flowering are usually not more than 
10 inches high, and while these are on the wane another batch may bo 
seen springing up, and these usually attain to 18 inches high, the flowers 
assuming an exquisite shade of sky blue of a much lighter tone than in 
the first flowering, the increased sunlight having probably something to 
do with this change. The plant is readily increased by division at any 
time when not flowering, preferably after the first spikes fade. 
GAILLARDIAS. 
These are now in their fullest beauty, and are quite unique in the 
rich colouring and variety of their flowers. Perfectly hardy and won¬ 
derfully profuse in their flowering, and withal of the simplest culture, 
these qualities should gain for them admission to any garden. The 
forms of G. grandiflora are those which give the best results, and being 
true perennials need only once planting. These, like the biennial varie¬ 
ties, are easily raised from seeds, while those who have only small 
gardens and but little time and convenience for raising plants from 
seed, may like to know that plants of the above in great variety, either 
separate or mixed, can be procured from dealers in hardy plants. 
ENGLISH IRISES. 
English Irises are also making a great show just now, and their 
handsome flowers are so charmingly adapted for vases or general decora¬ 
tive purposes that no garden is complete without them. Many of their 
flowers are so quaintly beautiful as to defy description. Being bulbous 
in character their planting must be deferred till the-autumn, taking 
