54 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 18,1889. 
plants. Newly trenched ground must be heavily trampled, and even 
ordinarily fresh dug ground must be made quite firm. Naturally 
retentive and rather rich soils will grow Strawberries admirably with¬ 
out being trenched. We merely manure and dig the intended site for 
Strawberries some time in winter, cropping this with Ashleaf Potatoes 
in the spring. The latter are duly cleared off, the ground being then 
levelled, trampled, and planted. 
Remarks on Planting Strawberries. —It is a very great 
mistake to crowd the plants. Nothing is gained, and much may be 
lost by it. Every plant, even when fully grown, or before it is four 
years o’d, should have a clear course round it, the sun and air thereby 
reaching the clusters of fruit that ought to surround each clump. 
Neither crowded nor old plants often pay for the room they occupy. 
As a rule three crops are ample for the plants to perfect, and even then 
if the culture is Rood the two first crops are the most profitable. A 
breadth should be destroyed and another planted every season. In 
very cold or extra moist localities it pays to plant on slightly raised 
beds, these being 6 feet wide and holding three rows of plants, with 
2 feet pathways between. As a rule, however, they succeed admirably 
on the level, the rows being from 2 feet to 30 inches apart, according to 
the variety. The strongest growers, notably Sir J. Paxton, ought, on 
strong soils especially, to receive the greater distance, the plants being 
disposed 2 feet apart in the rows, while the less vigorous growers may 
be put out in rows 2 feet apart, a distance of 18 inches dividing the 
plants in the rows. A trowel should be used for planting purposes, and 
care ought to be taken to well bury the roots, but not the crowns, the 
soil being firmly packed about the former with the handle of the trowel. 
All should be kept supplied with water till well established, and there 
is no reason why either Tripoli Onions should not be sown, or a row of 
Endive or Lettuce planted midway between the rows of young Straw¬ 
berry plants. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. — Starting Suckers. —Those will soon be fit to be taken from 
the plants which formed the early section of summer fruiters, and the 
necessary provision for them should be made at once, so that the plants 
may have the benefit of solar heat in developing growth for as long a 
time as possible. The means essential are a fermenting bed in a low damp 
house or pit, and the heat of the bed should be about 90° at 6 inches 
from the surface, but a few degrees higher may be allowed at the start, 
■care being taken that it does not exceed 95°. The suckers should be 
taken from the parent plants and placed directly in 5 or 7-inch pots 
according to size, and watered once to settle the soil about them. Good 
■fibrous loam torn up by hand without any admixture is the most 
■suitable compost, and should be firmly embedded in the pot, causing 
speedy root-action and sturdy growth. For a week or ten days the 
house or pit should be kept rather close and moist, affording shade, but 
giving but little air, and sprinkling the plants through a fine rose 
syringe once or twice a day according to external influences. As soon 
as growth takes place more ventilation with less shade is desirable, 
the change being gradual until the growth is inured to the sun, 
when ordinary treatment should be given. The plants must not be 
allowed to become root-bound, but the growth accelerated as far as is 
•consistent with sturdiness, consequently there must be no delay in 
shifting into the largest or fruiting pots. For Queens and Black Jamaica 
the fruiting pots may be 10-inch, and for other sorts 11 or 12-inch, using 
fibrous loam, but more lumpy than for suckers, adding a sprinkling of 
half-inch bones, and to prevent worms entering the pots a handful of 
■soot or wood ashes may be spread over the drainage. 
Figs .—Early House .- The first crop is gathered, and more mois¬ 
ture in the atmosphere will be desirable ; therefore resume syringino- 
twice daily, and sprinkling the house as advised before the fruit 
commenced colouring. Thin the fruits freely if plentiful, reserving 
those which are nearest the base of the shoots. Tie in the growths 
•to the trellis as they advance, stopping or removing any which are 
not required, regulating those retained so that they may receive the 
•beneficial effects of light and air to mature them perfectly. Do not 
allow the trees to suffer by want of water ; those in pots or planted 
out m borders of limited extent will require water frequently, affording 
-on every occasion some stimulating food, such as guano or other manure 
\\ here crops are ripening maintain a free circulation of dry warm air 
constantly, which is essential to the Figs ripening perfectly. Trees in 
pots required 'for early forcing must not be neglected in syringing 
occasionally; attend also with regularity to watering and supplying 
liquid manure. J 3 
Melons.— It is important that the late plants be put out without 
delay, especially where the means of affording artificial heat is confined 
to fermenting materials. Sufficient should be used to raise a bottom 
heat of about 90 , so as to start the plants quickly. In houses as the 
-crops are cleared the plants, if exhausted, should be removed and 
ip reparation made for a fresh start at the earliest opportunity ; but if the 
plants are in good health it is folly to root them out, as they will come 
into bearing again much sooner than young plants ; and if the foliage 
is kept heaithy they will continue bearing as late as it is desirabfe. 
" hen the crop is cut the plants should be divested of most of the old 
and damaged leaves, fresh growth being encouraged in the place of that 
exhausted, which should be cut away. The surface of the bed should 
be loosened, and the soil removed, applying a couple of inches in depth 
et tresh loam, giving a good watering, and when growth is taking place 
wu ™ fl i ee a PP llcatl °h of liquid manure, and treat as for former crops 
When Mdons are grown upon the continuous system it is well to note 
• hat the laterals will grow freely and show fruit abundantly after a few 
joints of growth. The flowers after being fertilised will set and the 
fruits swell freely, so that sufficient moisture only need be accorded 
to maintain the plants in continuous bearing. Attend to stopping, 
thinning, tying, or otherwise regulating the shoots, not allowing pressure 
of work in other departments to interfere with this, or the results will 
be detrimental. 
Successional plants should be earthed up as soon as the roots show at 
the sides of the hillocks, making the soil firm, being careful that the 
plants do not suffer by want of water, nor, on the other hand, have it 
in excess. To plants swelling their fruits supp'y weak liquid manure 
occasionally. Maintain a bottom heat of 80° to 83°, and provide a 
moist atmosphere to growing crops. Syringe freely, except when the 
fruit is setting or ripening, being careful in the restricted system not to 
allow one or two fruit to take the lead, but have them all as nearly as 
possible of one size on a p’ant. 
Vines. — Scalding .—This is very common to some Vines, notably 
Lady Downe’s, and in lesser degree to Muscats. Various causes have 
been assigned for it, but whatever these may be the remedy is very 
decided—viz., to admit air rather freely, especially in the early part of 
the day and through the day, with a little at night and a genial warmth 
in the pipes so as to maintain a temperature of about 70° artificially. 
It is most prevalent towards the close of the stoning period, a fortnight 
to three weeks before the Grapes change colour for ripening. A slight 
shade at this period is advantageous, particularly to Muscats, and 
during the early stages of ripening, when the weather is very bright, a 
double thickness of herring nets drawn over the roof lights is of great 
benefit in subduing the fierce rays of the sun from the middle of June 
to early August. When the Grapes begin changing colour danger 
from scalding is usually past ; yet Muscats are not then safe, as a 
sudden spell of very bright weather following a dull and moist period 
is very disastrous to that part of the bunches directly exposed to the 
sun’s rays, hence the necessity of a keen eye and a ready hand to 
promptly avert disaster. 
Shanking .—Great loss is occasioned by this malady, if it be one. 
It need not create any great anxiety to cultivators who are careful to 
build on a solid foundation, as the evil is caused, so far as is known, by 
suspended root action at the critical period of the Grapes ripening. 
This may result from various errors. One of the chief is deficiency of 
ventilation in the early stages, combined with too much moisture, 
inducing long-jointed growth and thin foliage, or it may be the roots 
are deep in favourable soil. To avoid shanking properly made 
borders and well managed Vines are essential, being careful to fully 
expose the foliage to light and air, allowing no more leaves than can 
have those essentials, not seeking to encourage root action by a thicket 
of growth which must sooner or later be removed in quantity, and give 
a check to the food supplies when they are most needed ; yet as much 
foliage should be allowed as can have due exposure, so that supplies 
of nutriment may be steadily maintained. Shanking is strictly cultural, 
and as such avoidable by judicious treatment. Regulate the young 
growths, adopting the extension rather than the restrictive system where 
there is room for it without crowding, keeping gross laterals stopped, so 
as to cause an equal flow of sap throughout the Vines. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Propagating Pinks and Carnations .—In many districts a disease 
which affects this class of plants has either destroyed or greatly weak¬ 
ened both Pinks and Carnations, and there is therefore all the more 
necessity to raise healthy young plants. The surest way of increasing 
the stock of Carnations is by layering the strongest or best placed 
shoots, this being done late in July or early in August ; but the Pinks 
must be principally struck from cuttings or “ pipings,” and a con¬ 
siderable number of Carnations may also be raised in the same 
manner. A very little bottom heat is necessary, and if a partially ex¬ 
hausted hotbed is not available it is advisable to form one in a rather 
cool position with equal portions of leaves and well-prepared stable 
manure. The frame being duly set on this, and if rather deep, half 
filled with the shortest of the heating material, about 6 inches of fine 
loamy sandy soil should be spread over the surface of the bed, and this 
in its turn faced over with sharp sand. The cuttings ought, where 
possible, to be slipped off the old stems, and supposing they are not 
more than 5 inches long only the old lower leaves should be trimmed 
off, and the rough lower end of the base lightly shortened to a joint, 
and many of these also will strike. All should be quickly dibbled in 
about 2 inches apart and rather less than 1 inch deep, and be firmly 
fixed. After a watering has been given, and the foliage dried again, 
place on the lights and keep the frame rather close, also shade from 
bright sun till the cuttings are rooted. The soil must not be allowed to 
become dry, and not till these are rooted should air be admitted freely. 
If frames are scarce handlights may be substituted, but only in warm 
and rather moist districts do the cuttings root freely in handlights or 
frames without the assistance of bottom heat. 
Roses from Cuttings .—In spite of extra pains being taken with the 
cuttings of hard wood inserted in the open ground late last autumn 
fewer of them were struck than usual. Own-root Roses are so useful 
that it becomes all the more necessary to attempt summer propaga¬ 
tion. Some varieties can be rooted in the summer that absolutely refuse 
to grow from cuttings made from the ripened wood in the autumn. 
Any medium-sized shoot of either Hybrid Perpetu3ls, Teas, and 
Noisettes, including the ever popular Marechal Niel and Gloire de 
Dijon, is after it has flowered suitable for making into a cutting. It 
should be cut with a small slice or “ heel” of old wood attached, and 
