August 1, 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
97 
profusion of such climbers as Bougainvillea glabra, Plumbago capensis, 
and Schubertia suaveolens, and the very remarkable specimens of 
Adiantum trapeziforme, A. gracillimum, A. farleyense, and A. Williamsi 
—the former the finest I ever noticed of the kind. 
Knowing something of the Summerville Chrysanthemums as a judge 
for some years, I was not surprised on emerging from the houses to see 
about 300 varieties, including all the newest introductions, grown both 
for exhibition and winter decoration. The temptation is strong to 
prolong my notes where there is so much worth observing, but I cannot 
draw to a close without asking your permission to warmly acknowledge 
the hospitable and courteous welcome of Mr. and Mrs. Calthorpe, and to 
include therein the steward and manager, Mr. Fechney, who showed us 
many things well done in his own department—an excellent specimen 
of the intelligent Scotch agriculturist. — W. J. Murphy, Tramore. 
TRENTHAM HORTICULTURAL SHOW. 
The second Show in connection w r ith the Trentham Horticultural 
Society was held July 25th, in the splendid grounds of Trentham, by 
kind permission of the Duke of Sutherland. The prospects of this young 
Society are very encouraging. The Show, which was a good one in every 
respect, reflects great credit upon the promoters ; the arrangements, 
likewise, were perfect, the weather fine, and the company large. Free 
access to the greater part of this princely estate when opened to the 
public, which was highly appreciated. The Show was opened by the 
Duke, accompanied by the Duchess, and many ladies and gentlemen. 
The principal feature in the plant classes were the groups arranged for 
effect. A splendid group, not for competition, occupying the whole end 
•of one of the spacious marquees from the Trentham Gardens, was a 
great attraction. Many fine Orchids and foliage and flowering plants 
were arranged in an artistic manner. The first prize for a group in 
competition, open to all, W. Thompson, Esq., Stone, secured (Mr. Stevens, 
gardener). This group contained many fine Orchids. The cut flowers, 
especially Boses, were very fine. First secured in the larger classes by 
Messrs. Dickson of Newtonards, Belfast, who showed well for bouquets 
and buttonholes. Messrs. Perkins and Son, of Coventry, were first in 
a good competition, Mrs. Blair securing first for epergne, a graceful 
arrangement. 
Fruit was shown in quantities. In the collection of eight dishes 
Mr. Thorpe, of Newark, was first, closely followed by Mr. Gilman of 
Ingestre, and Mr. Edmonds of Bestwood. For two or "three bunches of 
black Grapes Mr. Wilkie, Creswell Hall, was first, Mr. Edmonds 
securing like honours for whites. In a strong competition for collection 
of vegetables found Mr. Fitzherbert to the fore, the quality being 
excellent. The amateurs and cottagers showed well, and are to be con¬ 
gratulated upon the qualities of their exhibits. 
The band of the Royal Scots Guards, under the leadership of 
Mr. Holland, was engaged, and performed an excellent programme. 
Although such a number of people visited this Show not the slightest 
damage was done. 
ml 
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kjorthe week. . O, 
aW 1 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —In Pots for Early Forcing .—Those that are to be started in 
November should now have the wood thoroughly ripe and the buds 
plump. If not, and they are later this year than usual, keep the house 
rather warmer by day, say 80° to 85°, closing early so as to raise the 
temperature to 90° or 95°, and throw the house open at night. Afford 
water (or liquid manure will help to plump the buds! in sufficient 
quantity to prevent the foliage flagging, and the latter cannot have too 
much light. Keep lateral growths well in check, leaving no more than 
are absolutely necessary to appropriate any excess of nutriment and to 
prevent the principal eyes starting. When sufficiently ripened, as they 
are when the wood is brown and hard and the buds are prominent, they 
should be removed to a position outdoors, standing on slates or boards 
in front of a south wall or fence, securing the canes to the face of the 
wall, only giving water to prevent the foliage falling prematurely, and 
having some waterproof material to throw off the rain from the pots. 
In this position they will have some rest even if the leaves are not 
actually shed. When the leaves turn yellow and give indications of 
falling commence reducing the laterals, and when the leaves are all off 
prune the Vines, the laterals being cut off close and the canes cut back 
to the length required. Afterwards put them in any airy, cool, dry 
place until required for forcing. Keep them dry, but not dust dry, at 
the roots, and place some dry protective material about the pots to save 
the roots from frost in case it should gain access to the structure. 
Earliest Forced Vines. —The Vines will now require a dry atmo¬ 
sphere to thoroughly ripen the wood, but it will not be necessary to 
employ artificial heat. All laterals and late growths must be kept 
stopped, and complete rest afforded by having the house cool and com¬ 
paratively dry. The borders inside may require water, but if they have 
been mulched it may not be necessary, whilst the outside borders may 
need covering with dry straw or bracken to throw off heavy rains. This 
is absolutely essential to ensure complete rest, so necessary for Vines 
long subjected to forcing. A too moist condition of the soil tends to- 
late growth, but there should be sufficient moisture to maintain growth 
in the laterals in order to prevent the premature ripening of the foliage. 
In most cases it will be sufficient to allow a moderate extension of the 
laterals. Where the Vines are in an unsatisfactory condition prepare for 
lifting at an early date, getting fresh loam and clean drainage, so that 
the work can be done quickly when started. There is no danger of 
losing a crop, only operate upon a portion of the border at once, say the 
inside border one year and the outside the following. It is desirable to 
lift the roots and lay them in fresh soil nearer the surface whilst the 
foliage is on the Vines, therefore work of this kind ought not to be 
delayed in the case of Vines that are to be started early in December,, 
which will need pruning by the middle of September, or, in the case of 
lifted Vines, a little later. 
Vines not Regularly Subjected to Early Forcing .—Those that have- 
not hitherto been started early will need, as soon as the crop is off, to be 
thoroughly cleansed by syringing, or the application of an insecticide p 
and if there is any doubt about the ripeness of the wood or the plump¬ 
ness of the eyes, it will be necessary to keep the house rather close by 
day, but with sufficient ventilation to cause evaporation and allow the 
moisture to escape. Give no more water to the border than will prevent 
the foliage becoming limp. If the weather prove moist employ fire heat 
in the daytime to maintain a temperature of 70° to 75°, with moderate- 
ventilation, and turn the heat off at night to allow the pipes to cool,, 
increasing the ventilation, so as to ensure a thorough draught, and this 
will soon cause the wood to harden and the buds to become plump,, 
inducing rest, which for Vines that are to be started in December should 
be complete from the middle to the end of September. When the wood 
is ripe ventilate fully day and night. 
Vines Cleared of their Crops .—Cleanse the foliage by means of the 
syringe or engine, and if necessary apply an insecticide. If there are any 
mealy bug or scale promptly use petroleum—a wineglassful to four- 
gallons of water, in which 8 ozs. of softsoap and an ounce of soda have 
been dissolved, keeping the mixture thoroughly agitated by stirring 
briskly with a broomhandle whilst being applied to the Vines, which must 
be done thoroughly, wetting every part. It is best done on a dull, calm 
afternoon, and should be repeated two or three times at intervals of a 
few days. If there be any plants they must be removed; and if the 
roots of the Vine are near the surface cover with dry, short material, to 
absorb the waste. Keep the laterals fairly in hand, not closely pinched,, 
unless the Vines are very vigorous, and are not ripening the wood well, 
in which case keep the house rather dry at night, with all the ventilation 
possible, and somewhat warm and close by day ; this will tend to the 
maturity of the wood and buds. In stopping vigorous Vines regard must 
be had to the principal buds, not stopping so close as to jeopardise their 
starting into growth through an excess of sap. Such Vines should also 
be kept without water until the foliage is becoming a little limp. Vines 
that are not strong, having been enfeebled by continued cropping or 
other causes, should be encouraged to make growth by applying liquid 
manure to the border. But whatever superfluous foliage is made, it must 
not be allowed to interfere in any way with the free access of light 
and air to the principal leaves, which must be kept healthy, so that they 
may appropriate some of the extra food, and store it in the buds and 
adjacent wood. Ventilate freely day and night. 
Grapes Colouring .—Admit air constantly, enough with a gentle 
warmth in the pipes to insure a circulation. Whilst ripening, many, 
indeed most Grapes, swell considerably, therefore there must not be any 
deficiency of moisture in the borders. Give, if necessary, a good supply, 
and in the early part of the day, so that superfluous moisture may be 
dissipated before night. If the Vines are heavily cropped afford liquid 
manure, but not strong, and allow them plenty of time, otherwise if 
there be any hastening of the ripening and a deficiency of nutriment 
the fruit may be defective in colour. A good rest at night in a tempe¬ 
rature of 60° to 65° is a great help to Vines taxed to the utmost by 
weight of fruit. A moderate amount of air moisture is also essential 
to the health of the Vines, sprinkling available surfaces occasionally, 
and, if possible, allow the laterals to extend, but overtaxed Vines can. 
rarely cater for more than the principal leaves and Grapes. 
Cucumbers. —Any house or frame at liberty may yet be planted 1 
with Cucumbers, the frame having a bed of fermenting materials, which, 
will give a supply of fruit in September and continue nearly to Christmas 
if due regard be paid to lining the beds and to protecting the plants by 
mats over the lights at night after the weather sets in cold. Let plants 
in frames or houses be thinned at least once a week, and in growing 
weather twice, removing exhausted growths to make room for young¬ 
bearing shoots. - Keep the shoots well stopped to one joint beyond the 
fruit, or at the fruit if the plants are vigorous and showing no signs of 
exhaustion. Always allow weakly plants more extension, and crop, 
them lightly. Maintain a steady temperature of 70° at night, 75° by 
day, 80° to 85° with sun, closing early to increase to 90° or 95°, the 
bottom heat being kept at 80° to 85°. Maintain a steady root action by 
surface dressings of sweet lumpy manure, and pay due attention to- 
watering two or three times a week. Syringe in the afternoons of hot 
days, but avoid late syringing, for the foliage should be dry by sunset, 
and commence ventilating early, as it is important that the foliage be 
dry before the sun acts powerfully upon it. The autumn fruiters should 
be planted on hillocks or ridges, moderately firm, maintaining a moist 
and genial atmosphere, and they will grow and show fruit in plenty 
shortly. 
