100 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 1, 1889. 
tness of the tin, of the inside of the crate, and 3 inches broad by 
li thick. Bore two holes to receive bolts about 3 inches from the 
■ends, the exact depth down to the top edge as the half of the tin, 
which may be 2j in whole, the half being 1^ to top. The bolts 
will do with common nuts, but are more handy if little handles 
■extend. After the tins are cut to proper sizes insert the tin and 
bend to right angles, then take out and close the edges with a 
wooden mallet; when fully closed pierce a hole for screw, nail 
■close to where the angle will be, now insert the doubled tin again 
between the blocks, this time three-sixteenths or so above the top ; 
the proper gauge for this is got by two additional holes the proper 
distance above the line of the top edge of the bolts, which receives 
two wire pins. Screw the blocks tightly, and separate the edges, 
which form the ledges, and again beat down. Before inserting the 
last time cut the tin exactly at the wideness of the crate ; it should 
be nearly an inch from the end, and where the hole should be 
■as near the top edge as possible. When the angles are formed 
turn the ends round before removing, and the thing is complete. 
Bach piece will cost from one halfpenny to a penny each, according 
to the weight of the tins. When screwing these on to the crate 
liave two pieces of wood with saw serps the exact width between, 
that will suit the sections. Nail a lath on each end of these gauges, 
laying them on the bottom edge of the crate, which for convenience 
is uppermost, now slip the angled tin into these saw cuts, and screw 
■the tin tightly to the crate. It is not absolutely necessary that 
there be a tin for the top, but it is an advantage ; these do not 
require the angle or ledges. Where sections are used with bee ways 
nothing else is required, but when sections of one width through¬ 
out are used it is necessary to have distance guides of some sort, 
a bit of one-eighth sheet lead cut into narrow strips of the desired 
width, and about H long, then bent in the middle, and made to 
ride and slide upon the top edge of the tin, is simple and excellent 
for the purpose. Thus the material for a crate to hold twenty- 
eight 1 lb. sections will not cost more than from 6d. to 8d., and 
the time to make will not be more than an hour. — A Lanark¬ 
shire BEE-KEEPER. 
[The plant referred to is Sedum ibericum.] 
TRADE CATALOGUE RECEIVED. 
W. Baylor Hartland, 24, Patrick Street, Cork .—Booh of Daffodils 
(illustrated). 
c o e All correspondence should be directed either to “The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Book on Roses (J. D .).—We cannot possibly undertake to say 
which we consider the “ best ” book on Rose growing. The different 
works have been reviewed in our columns. 
Books (J. D.). — We have never answered a question in the form 
you request, nor are we likely to do so, as such an answer as you wish 
would imply condemnation of meritorious works. Reviews of several 
books have been published. (C. T. U .).—Perhaps Mr. Shirley Hibberd’s 
work will suit you, published, we think, by Messrs. Groombridge and 
Sons. We do not remember the price, but it will be less than you 
name. 
Paulownla imperialis (F. Smith). —The tree must be growing in 
an unsuitable soil or situation, as, apart from the actual injury to the 
texture of the leaves, they have an extremely unhealthy appearance. 
We do not think the cause you assign could have produced such effects 
without seriously damaging the tree. 
Shrubs for Border (J. IF.).—In addition to those you have, 
which are some of the best for your purpose, the Gold and Silver Tree 
Ivie3—namely, Hedera arborea aurea and H. arborea elegantissima are 
fine, Laurustinus good, also Osmanthus ilicifolius variegatus nanus, 
Taxus baccata elegantissima, Cupressus Lawsoniana erecta viridis; lutea 
and nana glauca are also very pretty. Yucca recurva may be men¬ 
tioned as a graceful plant suitable for the purpose. 
Temperature of Stove, &c. ( Cambridge ).—The night tempera¬ 
ture of a stove in the summer months should be 70°, falling to 65° in the 
morning, or even 60° occasionally. In the daytime the temperature 
should be kept at 70° to 75° by artificial means, on cloudy days but with 
clear intervals keep at 80°, and in fine weather the temperature through 
the day should be 85° or 90°, closing sufficiently early each day to raise 
it to 90° or 95°, or a little more with plenty of moisture. The propa¬ 
gating house must have a steady temperature of 70° to 75° by artificial 
means, and in hot weather it will probably be 80° to 85°, the shade 
making the difference between the temperature in that and an ordinary 
stove. 
Tomatoes BIseased (F. IF.).—We are glad to know our advice 
has been of good service to you, and that you have succeeded in check¬ 
ing the development of disease, but judging by the foliage submitted 
you are by no means rid of it, and a close humid atmosphere would 
most certainly favour a destructive spread of the disease. Plenty of 
dry air, both night and day, is the best remedy, and this coupled with 
a firm root run and uncrowded houses is the only way to combat this 
most insidious disease. In many instances where these conditions 
have not been maintained the fungus has spread to a most disastrous 
extent, not a sound leaf being seen among thousands of plants. You 
have every reason, therefore, to be well satisfied with the capital crops 
you are marketing, and it is to be hoped you will succeed in cutting as 
many Tomatoes as you are ambitious to do—viz., three tons of fruit. 
Your stock is undoubtedly tainted, and we should much prefer to save 
seed of the selected variety from plants grown in the open air. If this 
is impossible we would yet save seed, and watch the seedlings closely. 
The disease is sometimes apparent in quite young plants. Tomato 
Advancer will probably be offered for sale in due time. 
Carnation Souvenir de la Malmaison (B. D. C.). —If your 
plants are dwarf with good stout shoots at the base, transfer them to 
pots 2 inches larger. Drain the pots liberally, and press the soil mode¬ 
rately firm. Do not disturb the old balls farther than is necessary to 
remove the drainage. -The soil may consist of good fibry loam two 
parts, the other part being composed of leaf mould, sand, and decayed 
manure. One-seventh of the latter will be ample. Stand them outside 
and water carefully afterwards. If possible, peg the shoots down on 
the surface of the soil after they are potted. If you wish to preserve 
the plants for flowering another year, and the growths are long 
and straggling, the shoots may be trained carefully to stakes after the 
plants have been potted. When this is carefully done straggling plants 
may be considerably reduced in height and converted into creditable 
bushes that will flower again freely another year. To increase the 
number of your plants, the shoots may be taken, inserted singly in small 
pots, and stood under handlights until they are rooted. The plant may 
also be placed out in a sloping direction, and all the growing shoots 
layered, which, when rooted, can be taken up and potted. 
Ficus elastica (Idem). —If the pots are full of roots we have no 
doubt that repotting would improve the plants. You can pot them at 
once, employing pots 2 inches larger than those they are now in. Do 
not disturb the old ball further than is necessary to remove the drainage. 
The soil may consist of good loam and sand, with the addition of one- 
seventh of manure. Press the soil firmly into the pots. Water care¬ 
fully until the roots are spreading freely into the new soil. 
Marguerites (Idem). —These are propagated by cuttings of the 
young growing shoots, and root freely at almost any period of the year. 
For bedding, they can either be rooted early in September or early in 
the spring. We prefer the latter, because large plants can quickly be 
produced by liberal treatment. From June to September they root 
freely in any sandy soil in cold frames, either singly, or a number 
together in pots. Cuttings are liable to damp during the autumn, but 
root readily enough in a temperature of 60 a during the spring months. 
Plants rooted in August, grown cool, and their shoots pinched, will 
flower towards the end of March. Cuttings rooted early in the spring 
will succeed these. Root a few at intervals of a month or five weeks, 
and you should not be without flowers. Plants rooted in April and 
May, and then grown outside, will flower splendidly during the autumn. 
If you want large specimens, plant out spring-rooted cuttings ; lift and 
pot them in September ; winter them in a cool house, and they will 
yield quantities of flower in spring. 
Culture of Aphelandra Roezll (F. R. M.). —The following note 
by a successful grower will answer your question :—This is a handsome 
plant either for the stove or for room decoration. The flowers are of 
very short duration in a cut state ; indeed, for this purpose it is of littlo 
