104 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[. August 8, 1889* 
the cost of L. longiflorum, and I can assure those who still have 
doubts that it is decidedly the cheaper of the two. 
• It will be clearly seen which of the two is best adapted for 
early forcing, when it is known that L. Harrisi is imported in time 
to he potted during August, thus having two months good start of 
L. longiflorum. The old form is principally grow'n and imported 
from Holland, and cannot be obtained before the end of October. 
L. Harrisi is readily distinguished by its bulbs from L. longiflorum, 
so that there need be no mistakes, as was the case when L. Harrisi 
was first introduced. The bulbs of the latter are flatter than those 
of L. longiflorum, which taper gradually almost to a point. Even 
the scales of the two are distinct as well as the colour. Imported 
bulb3 of L. Harrisi are yellow, very yellow in comparison to those 
of the old form. The foliage when grown is slightly longer, nar¬ 
rower, and of the two has the least substance. L. Harrisi grows 
considerably taller and produces more flowers on each spike—that 
is, strong flowering bulbs. The tube of the flower is longer, and 
the flower possesses a pearly whiteness that distinguishes it from 
L. longiflorum. 
• The bulbs of L. Harrisi are sold by size—namely, 5 to 7 and 
7 to 9 inches in circumference. There is a smaller size, but the 
largest are decidedly the cheapest for forcing in pots. Those who 
order early always secure the best bulbs, and, therefore, intending 
cultivators would do well to order what they require at once. 
This is not only the case with Liliums but with all bulbs ; the first 
consignments I have found are always the best. This is not all, 
the bulb3 are much better placed in the soil directly they arrive, 
and do better than those that are kept out for some time. Those 
who pot the bulbs early have a decided advantage over those who 
delay until the autumn has advanced. The one can give them 
almost natural treatment from the first, and the other resorts to 
artificial aid and often undue forcing. 
The bulbs after arrival should be carefully cleaned. If they have 
been packed in sawdust, which is frequently the case, it must be 
carefully shaken out, and all damaged scales removed. It is not 
necessary to pull away the whole scale if only a portion is injured, 
the decayed piece can be removed with a knife. The size of pot to 
be used depends entirely upon circumstances. If the plants are 
needed for effect in groups the bulbs can be potted singly in 
4^-inch pots ; two may be placed in G-inch pots, four in 7-inch pots, 
and so on. For cutting, or where good sized pots can be used for 
furnishing, 8 and 9-inch pots may be employed, placing five bulbs 
in the former and six in the latter. They can be well grown in 
the smaller pots, but so far, we believe, better in the larger, because 
a less frequent use of the water pot is required in the early stages 
of-growth. The pots, whichever size is used, must be liberally 
drained. Press the soil moderately firm, and place the bulbs 2 inches 
below the surface. The compost may consist of good fibry loam, 
moderately light, two parts, and the remaining two parts of leaf 
mould, sand, and decayed manure-one-seventh of the latter will be 
ample. A little sand may with advantage be laid at the base of 
each bulb, and the soil should be in an intermediate state for mois¬ 
ture. This is important—it must not be too wet or, on the other 
hand, too dry to necessitate watering before the commencement of 
root activity and growth. If the loam is heavy make it light by 
the addition of more sand, charcoal, or any material that will keep 
it porous. 
The pots containing the bulbs should be placed in a cold frame, 
and covered over the rims with cocoa-nut fibre refuse, sand or 
finely sifted ashes; the first, where it can be obtained, is perhaps 
the best. Mats should be secured over the frame, which should be 
closed until growth through the fibre is visible. By the aid of 
mats and fibre the soil about the bulbs remains sufficiently moist to 
start them into root activity and growth, without having to water 
them, which would be the case if the pots were simply stood in the 
frame. Full light must be admitted directly signs of growth 
through the fibre can be detected. Admit air gradually at first, and 
increase it considerably as growth advances until abundance can be 
given on fine days. The plants should be syringed and the frame 
closed early in the afternoon so as to enclose a little sun heat. It 
is surprising how rapidly they advance in growth. The fibre can 
be removed when the growths are 2 inches high, or it can be left on 
until the pots are removed from the frame. 
When the plants have once started into growth care must be 
taken that they are not checked. Directly it commences to be cold 
at night remove them to a light airy structure where the tempera¬ 
ture will not ffill below 55° to 60° at night. On fine days give 
abundance of air to insure sturdy growth. This is important 
during the sunless days of autumn and winter. If pushed forward 
rapidly in a close confined atmosphere they are certain to flower 
unsatisfactorily. They must be kept growing, but slowly, and then 
their flowers will form and come forward even if they are brought 
on a little more quickly. They will bear forcing gently after the 
buds are formed and display signs of lengthening out. 
They must be watered in all stages of growth with the utmost 
care. If the pots are plunged when the bulb3 are first potted it is 
questionable if any water will be needed before they have made- 
2 or 3 inches of growth. They should be examined occasionally to 
see that the soil is not likely to become dry. 
Start Liliums in the pots in which they are to flower. Nothing; 
is gained by placing them in small pots and shifting them into a 
larger size afterwards. It is also unwise to only half fill the pots- 
with soil at first; treat them the same as is done when potting any 
ordinary plant or bulb. This variety certainly roots profusely from 
the stem, but we have discovered no advantage by the use of rich 
top-dressings. After the flowers appear liquid manure in a weak- 
state may be given with advantage. 
Aphis is the greatest enemy this Lily has to contend against. It 
will quickly cripple the flowers and destroy the plant if not eradi¬ 
cated as it appears. Slight fumigations with tobacco smoke is the 
best means of destroying the insects, but this must be done directly 
they can be observed. If they are left for s >me time they quickly 
establish themselves in the lead of the plant, and are practically 
safe from the effects of the smoke. Once they get into this position 
smoking is useless. The points of the plants should be dipped in 
a weak solution of tobacco water. The plants will bear this, bub 
the fly cannot.—W. D. L. 
THE PAST STRAWBERRY SEASON. 
To obtain an estimate of the qualities of the many varieties- 
of Strawberries an extensive plot of ground was planted with about 
thirty varieties in alternate rows in August and September of last- 
year. We were thus able to compare the varieties with each other, 
and their behaviour during the season. The first fruit to ripen, 
on a south border, was Black Prince, on June 13th, followed 
immediately by Laxton’s King of the Earlies, Yicomtesse H. de 
Thury, and Laxton’s Noble, in the order named, all maiden plants,, 
planted the August previous, mixed indiscriminately for com¬ 
paring dates of ripening. Then followed Li Grosse Sucree, Keens’ 
Seedling, and Sir Jos. Paxton, out in the open. June 23rd brought us. 
President, Marguerite, James Veitch, Pauline (very inferior), Sir 
Harry, Captain, Alice Maud, and a score others. The late varietie3, 
Filbert Pine, Eleanor, Elton Pine, and Wizard of the North, on 
the south border, were fifteen days behind Black Prince, whilst in 
open quarters they ripened on July 6th, being twenty-three days, 
after the first berries were gathered. At the present time (end of 
July) the crop is virtually over, excepting a few small berries on the 
latest varieties. 
One remarkable feature of the year was the absence of May 
frosts to destroy the “ King ” or first blossoms, and accordingly 
Laxton’s Noble came out prominently with some remarkably 
handsome fruit which, had there been frost, would never have, 
reached maturity. By the way, what a magnificent quick swelling 
berry Noble produces, yet probably to the detriment of its quality 
and texture, which can only be described as second class, soft and 
woolly. It is of handsome shape and good colour, and ripens- 
regularly and speedily. 
The drought of June spoilt what promised to be an abundant 
crop of fruit, and much of it remained small and useless for 
market work, notwithstanding that the earliest blossoms set fine 
berries. The rainfall of the month only amounted to 054 inch 
here, and to this deficiency much of the evil is traceable. The 
varieties that best withstood the drought were Yicomtesse H. de 
Thury, Keens’ Seedling, Marguerite, James Yeitch and Dr. Hogg. 
Those badly attacked with red spider, consequent on the dry 
weather, were British Queen, Sir Joseph Paxton, Old Pine, Filbert- 
Pine, and Elton Pine. Others were also sadly injured. 
The largest fruits duiing the season were obtained from Sir 
Joseph Paxton, and weighed 1J oz. Jas. Veitch had also berries, 
weighing lj oz ; Marguerite, Noble, Excelsior, and Waterloo eacb 
had fruits of lj oz., whilst Vicomtesse H. de Thury, Loxford Hall 
Seedling, and several others had berries of 1 oz. each. If it had 
not been for the drought these weights would have most certainly 
been exceeded. 
Comparing the past season with the previous one of 1888, in 
which year Black Prince was first to ripen on June 25th, just 
twelve days later, and Keens’ Seedling, James Yeitch and others 
not until July 12th, the late ones coming in on the 31st, and still 
in fruit on August 15th, we find the season considerably earlier, 
and on the whole may be taken as more satisfactory, the quality of 
the berries from Vieomtesse H. de Thury, British Queen, Dr. 
Hogg, Sir Joseph Paxton, Old Pine, Filbert Pine, and Waterloo 
being far superior to that of 1888. 
Just a word in regard to the after treatment of plants. The 
old custom of cutting off all the leaves as soon as the fruit was all 
gathered may have much to recommend it when the leaves are 
