JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 8, 1889. 
careful to allow space for the swelling of the shoots. Keep the growths 
thin, every leaf having space for full expansion. Syringe about 7 A.M., 
the house having a little ventilation constantly, increasing it withth' 
advancing temperature to 75°, or if it is desired to advance the ripening 
the day temperature may be 80° to 85°, but always with ventilation, and 
close sufficiently early to maintain that temperature, but not to raise it 
above 90°. Syringe again in the afternoon about 5 p.m. Timely thin- 
jiing increases the size of the fruits retained, therefore thin finally as 
soon as the stoning is completed. One Peach to every square foot is 
Ample, also for the large Nectarines. In small fruit we have twice the 
weight of stone at a great sacrifice of flesh, and in appearance and 
quality there is no comparison between well-fed and ill-fed fruit. 
Cheery House.— The buds are now plump ; the leaves, too, will not 
be capable of much further effort in elaborating sap and storing it 
in the buds and adjacent wood, therefore any undue excitement will 
cause the trees to start into growth, which must be guarded against by 
exposing the trees to the influence of the atmosphere so far as the house 
will admit, which is the best means of arresting premature growth, to 
which the Cherry is liable when forced year after year successively. 
The border must not be allowed to become parchingly dry, but must 
have a copious supply of water, and if the trees are weak afford liquid 
manure. To subdue red spider give an occasional washing with the 
syringe or garden engine. Black aphides can scarcely keep long off 
Cherry trees, but the leaves and wood, from their hard texture, are not 
inviting to them, yet if they appear promptly use tobacco water. Trees 
in pots must be regularly watered and syringed to maintain the foliage 
in a healthy condition as long as possible. 
Figs. —Second Crops .—The fruit of trees started about the new year 
or before will have the second crop in an advanced state, and it must 
be thinned if not already done, reserving that at the base of the growths, 
which as a rule swells and finishes better than near the points. This 
crop must not tax the energies of the trees too severely if they are 
expected to afford early fruit next season. Attend regularly to thinning 
and stopping the shoots, train thinly, and allow plenty of space in the 
ties for the shoots to swell, stopping the side shoots at about the fifth 
leaf, but do not encourage spur growths to an extent likely to cause 
crowding. Afford water copiously through a good surface mulching of 
short manure. Nothing answers better than sweetened horse knobs. 
Water or liquid manure will be required according to the extent of the 
rooting area. The trees in narrow borders may need it every day, those 
in larger area corresponding thereto. They can hardly have too much 
water in hot weather, always provided the border is formed of sound 
material and the roots are active, so as to lay hold of it, and there is 
drainage to carry off superfluity beyond the soil’s retentive power. 
Syringe forcib y twice a day to dislodge red spider, but with proper 
feeding and attention there will be no need for insecticides, though 
nothing seems to prevent scale, therefore remove it with a brush and a 
soapy solution. Figs like abundance of air ; they also delight in heat and 
light. Admit a little air constantly, increase it early, close early with 
plenty of moisture, and the fruit will swell to a good size, then a circu¬ 
lation of air constantly will enable the cultivator to produce Figs in 
perfection. 
Fig Trees in Puts for Party Forcing .—Syringe at least once a day, 
in hot weather twice, affording liquid manure at the roots, and pinching 
to induce a neat habit in young plants with fruitfulness. Stopping 
must be regulated by the vigour of the plants and the varieties. 
Vigorous growers will need to be more closely pinched than those of 
moderate growth. It is important that the trees have plenty of light, 
are not crowded, and are well ventilated, to solidify the growth as it is 
made. 
Melons.— Lately the weather has not been at all favourable for 
Melons. It has militated against flavour, but plants swelling their 
fruit have done so wonderfully well, which we mention as we think 
there is an advantange in slight shade during scorching weather when 
the fruit is.swelling, which the recent somewhat dull weather confirmed 
very decisively. Frame Melons seem always to place house Melons 
at a disadvantage during June, July and August. The benefit of a 
bed of leaves and dung slowly but surely decomposing and evolving a 
continuous supply of nutriment, the plants not being coddled°or 
stewed, having much more air, therefore have more highly elaborated 
juices, consequently have a firmer and deeper flesh, sweeter and more 
agreeable flavour than house Melons at the time named. 
Late Crops in Frames— These have set, or are setting well. Where 
the plants are luxuriant the growths should be kept thin, or they may 
refuse to set, or if setting swe'l indifferently. Some growers have a 
-dread of the knife while the fruit is setting, but we do not hesitate to 
-cut out superfluous growths whenever the necessity arises, and with the 
best results. Crowding tends to nothing but disaster. The blossoms 
do not set freely, the fruits swell badly, form large seed cavities, 
and are deficient in both weight and quality. Copious supplies of 
water are necessary about twice a week to plants swelling their 
fruit, with a sprinkling over the foliage at closing time, those in 
houses being syringed both ways in the afternoon, and good moisture 
maintained by damping available surfaces in the morning and at noon. 
Do not neglect to fertilise the blossoms daily of plants now in flower, 
and examine them frequently for stopping or removing superfluous 
growths. Keep the atmosphere dry when the fruit is setting and ripen¬ 
ing. Maintain a bottom heat of 80° to 85°, top heat 70° at night, 75° by 
day artificially ; in dull weather admit a little air at 75° if “the day is 
likely to be fine, allowing the heat to rise to 80° to 85°, then admit 
more air, and keep it through the day at 85° to 90°, closing so as to 
increase it to 90°, 95°, or 100°. A free circulation of rather dry warm 
air greatly improves the finish and quality of Melons when ripening. 
Late Melons .—If fruit be wanted very late make a last sowing forth¬ 
with. Longleat I’eifection and Scailet Premier are good free setting 
and swelling sort 0 , keeping some little time after being ripe. The plants 
for fruiting in October should be planted at once, it being important 
that they have a light and well heated structure with those raised from 
seed now. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Shallots and Potato Onions. —Both of these are serviceable, 
as they may be used as substitutes where Onions have failed, and they 
possess a flavour much valued by cooks. They are seldom injured by 
grubs or fail from a bad season. Our stock has reproduced itself for 
the last ten years, and the bulbs show no signs of degeneration. The 
present treatment of the bulbs consists in drawing them out of the soil, 
laying them on a hard surface in the sun to dry, then cleaning and 
storing in a dry place for the winter. 
More Vacant Ground Wanted.— Winter crops may still be 
increased, but ground for their reception is deficient in many cases, 
and more vacant places are still wanted. Where fruit bushes from 
which the crop has been recently gathered have been condemned for 
removal, do not allow them to remain in the ground until the winter, 
but clear them off at once, and if the ground is limed or manured and 
dug over there will then be a fine quarter for winter vegetables. The 
same remarks apply to exhausted Strawberry plantations. 
Autumn Spinach.— Spinach has not been so good during the last 
weeks as it was previously. It does not like hot dry weather, and this 
was against its free development and duration, but the time has again 
arrived when it will do better, and a good breadth should be sown now 
to furnish gatherings in September and October. 
Preparing for Mushrooms.— If a good supply of Mushrooms 
can be secured from October until March they will be more appreciated 
then than during the summer when choice vegetables are plentiful, 
and wherever horse droppings are available their collecting should 
begin at once to form beds to bear in October. There is no difficulty 
in drying the manure now, and it will be ready for the bed by the time 
sufficient has been collected. If placed in an open shed or under cover 
anywhere and turned daily that will be sufficient. We do not approve 
of removing all the short straw from the droppings, but allow a good 
deal of this to remain, as it binds the bed together better and makes it 
more lasting and fruitful. If the droppings could only be collected 
quite free from litter we should be inclined to mix a quantity of chaff 
with them before making the bed. Our favourite place for beds at this 
time is in a shed or outhouse, and we never fail to produce Mushrooms 
in a position of this kind. The beds should be from 15 inches to 
18 inches deep, and they cannot be made too firm. Spawn when the 
temperature is at 85° or 90°, and soil over as soon as it is noticed that 
the temperature is not inclined to rise above this. At present there are 
many indications of Mushrooms being plentiful in the fields during 
August and September, but these will all be over before the beds we 
wish formed now will be in a good bearing condition. 
Asparagus. —The season has suited this admirably. It is years 
since we noticed the plants so luxuriant as they are at present. Indeed, 
in many inst mces they are composed of far too many shoots, and it 
would be much better for the future and permanent success of the 
roots if the weakest shoots were cut out level with the ground where 
they are too crowded. This would throw extra strength into those left ; 
and it would also enable them to mature thoroughly—a very important 
point not easily attainable where the stems form a dense mass. 
Coleworts. —These are closely connected with Cabbages, but head 
more quickly in late autumn, are more hardy, and merit being planted 
freely as a useful winter vegetable. Some err in planting them too 
soon." We never place them out until August, and often not until quite 
the end of that month. 
Drying Herbs for Winter.— A good and varied supply of herbs is 
necessary in all kitchens. They are in demand all the year round. In 
summer there is no difficulty in suppling what is required from the 
beds ; but unless some are dried and stored there will be a deficiency in 
winter. It is the leaves, an l not the flowers of herbs that are most 
valued, and the whole of them should be cut before they flower or seed. 
The most useful are Thyme, Mint, Sage, and the different kinds of 
Savories, and good quantities of each should be cut when dry, and be 
spread out in some airy place, under cover. They must not be placed in 
the sun, as this will cause the leaves to wither so quickly as to become 
brittle, and then they will readily fall. When they are so dry that they 
will not ferment or become mouldy, if tied together, they should be 
bundled and suspended from the roof of a shed or room ; but they must 
not be used until the open air supplies are destroyed by the weather. 
Parsley. — Some of the spring-sown beds show signs of being attacked 
with grub, and if this increases they may be considerably spoiled before 
the winter ; and as it is absolutely necessary that a supply of Parsley 
be forthcoming, daily efforts must be made to avoid deficiencies. It is 
always noticeable that grubs are not so injurious in autumn as in summer, 
and any crop sown novv is not likely to be destroyed, even in gardens 
where the early plants have perished, and a good quantity of seed 
should be sown at present. If the ground is rich, add a quantity of 
lime ; if poor, add manure and soot, as luxuriant Parsley cannot be 
produced in hungry soil. This crop will be found most useful in winter, 
as the close young growths do not suffer so much in severe weather as 
the long leaves on older plants. 
Various. —Since the heavy rains weeds have made their appearance 
