August 8, 1*89 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
121 
abundantly, and to prevent the kitchen garden becoming unsightly in 
autumn run the Dutch hoe through the soil everywhere. Now that 
Runner Beans are podding freely gather all off as soon as they are ready, 
as by allowing them to remain until the seed forms, the later pods will be 
severely checked. Cut Cabbages that are splitting, that the side shoots 
may form small heads early. Do not let Cauliflowers become too old 
before cutting. Keep late Peas well staked. If they once droop over 
they will fail to fruit freely in late autumn. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
French and Fancy Pelargoniums. —Plants that have hard, well- 
ripened wood may be pruned back closely, and stood in a frame until 
they commence growth. If they are syringed twice daily, and the 
frame closed early in the afternoon, they will soon start, and no water 
wi 1 be needed at their roots before they reach this stage. When they 
have well broken into growth the old soil may be shaken from amongst 
their roots and the plants repotted in a smaller size. The soil may con¬ 
sist of good loam three parts, one part leaf mould, one-seventh decayed 
manure and sand. Syringe lightly and water carefully until they com¬ 
mence rooting freely into the new soil. The frame may be kept 
moderately close at first, then admit air abundantly to insure sturdy 
growth. Young plants that are just rooted in small pots may be placed 
into 4^-inch pots. Give plenty of air from the first, but water carefully, 
and they will soon commence rapid growth. Cold frames are the most 
suitable structures for them, so that the lights can be thrown off after 
active growth has commenced. Good cuttings may still be inserted in 
sandy soil, and stood in cold frames until they are rooted. 
Roman Hyacinths. —For early flowering bulbs may be potted at once. 
They can be placed thickly together in pots, pans, or boxes, according to 
individual requirements. We have found them to succeed well in equal 
quantities of old refuse soil from the potting shed and good loam, to 
which is added leaf mould, sand, and a little decayed manure. The bulbs 
after they are potted should be placed outside and covered with ashes, 
4 inches deep. Select for them a position moderately sheltered from the 
sun, as when fully exposed the soil in the pots is liable to become too 
dry. Bulbs may be potted at intervals of three weeks until the end of 
October. 
Snowdrops and Crocuses. —Where these are required to flower early 
they should be potted at once, and not delayed until October and then 
subjected to undue forcing in spring. Failure is certain to follow such 
a course of treatment. If home-grown bulbs are prepared for this 
purpose where they do well, and are potted now, it will be found 
that the pots are full of root3 by the time imported roots can be 
obtained. These, if never removed from cold frames, will precede those 
outside in flowering. 
Primulas. —All but the latest should be in their largest pots. Be 
careful to grow them on a cool moist base where they can be protected 
from strong sun, but where they can enjoy abundance of light. Provide 
ventilation most liberally to insure sturdy growth. These plants are 
frequently spoiled by keeping them too close ; they draw up weakly, 
and are a prey to damp in autumn. Give the earliest plants soot water 
in a clear state, and a little artificial manure on the surface once a 
fortnight. 
Double varieties should also be in their largest pots. These do 
better close to the glass where they can be shaded from the sun pro¬ 
vided they stand on a bed of ashes or gravel. 
Petunias. —Plants for early flowering in 5-inch pots next season may 
be rooted at once and then transferred to 3-inch pots. After they are 
rooted pinch out the points, to induce them to branch, and grow them 
as cool and sturdily as possible. Any good varieties from amongst the 
seedlings that were raised in spring may also be perpetuated by cuttings 
inserted at the present time. The cuttings of Petunias are liable to 
damp if they are placed in too warm and too close a structure. A cold 
frame, that can be kept shaded, will be found the best place for them. 
Fuchsias. —Cuttings of these may'also be inserted now, and they 
root freely in cool frames if dibbled thickly into boxes. They should 
be potted singly after they are rooted, and encouraged to make firm 
growth by potting them moderately firm and growing them as cool 
as possible. 
Heliotropes. —Bushy plants in 3-inch pots may be placed into 5-inch 
pots and stood or plunged outside until the end of September. These, 
if given a light warm structure during the autumn, will flower pro- 
forely. Continue to train the shoots of standards and pyramids until 
they have filled their trellises with sturdy short growths. It is not wise 
to allow the shoots to extend any great length before they are pinched. 
The more shoots the plants have, the greater the number of flowers 
produced. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
WATER REQUIRED BY BEE3. 
I have concluded an experiment as to the amount of water 
required for the internal economy of the hives during the summer 
months, and it will perhaps not only interest but astonish some of 
your readers. The experiment wa3 begun in May, and ended in 
July. There is no water available near at hand for our bees, so 
they have to depend mostly upon what is given them. The 
quantity given each day amounted to 1 lb. 10 ozs., and allowing 
2 ozs. for evaporation this leaves 1^ lb. for each stock, or about 
30 lbs. for a three-weeks batch of eggs and brood. 
Water is required for the secretion of wax and the building of 
comb3, the brood, and the moistening of thick and granulated’ 
honey, as well as to keep up the necessary moist atmosphere of the 
hive. During warm weather much moisture is evaporated from 
the hive, as much sometimes as 2 lbs. in a night, but it is not con¬ 
fined solely to warm weather, for during the coldest the honey the 
bees consume is converted into carbonic acid gas and water. In the 
former case the great bulk of water evaporated is from the excess 
in the newly gathered honey, and from the natural perspiration of 
the bees and larvas. 
POLLEN. 
It is more difficult to arrive at the exact quantity of pollen 
required in a hive, as it is used in conjunction with water and honey 
as food for the larvoe, for the seals of the brood combs, and inter¬ 
stices of the hive along with propolis. But perhaps at least 2 lbs- 
of pollen is necessary for the brood brought forward in three weeks 
when the queen is laying about 3000 eggs daily. Whether the 
above is accurate or not, I know that a strong hive will consume 
more than 1 lb. of artificial pollen per month during the spring. 
If we take the three weeks during the height of the honey season,, 
when a strong stock will gather and store 100 lbs. of honey, and 
carry in 30 lbs. of water, and probably not less than 6 lbs. of pollen, 
and divide all these materials into globules of three-sixteenths of 
an inch in diameter, it will give an idea of the laborious work 
performed by the bee. 
PROPOLI3. 
This is sometimes carried in in larger quantities than the bee¬ 
keeper desires, but never to such an extent as to make it a com¬ 
mercial product. It is sometimes, however, useful as a cement in 
small quantities, and when gathered from certain trees is fragrant 
and agreeable. 
PUNIC BEES. 
It is as yet premature for me to say anything for or against the- 
Punician bee, as I have only seen the young ones beginning to- 
work, but strange to say at the early age of not more than six 
days old. Of course these young bees are crossed with a drone of 
the crossed Syrian, but many have the appearance of pure ones,, 
which may be described as being of a dark plum colour with 
greyish hairs, and the body of a more stubby appearance than some 
of the other foreign races possess. I should like to know from. 
“ A. H. B. K.” if this early working of the Punic bee has been 
observed by him. He has told us of some of the wonderful 
qualities of this race, but not this point, and, what is most interest¬ 
ing, these youthful bees were at work by 7 A.M. As desired, I have 
placed one of the queens at the head of a stock, and have it at the 
Heather, which should be in good condition for gathering honey 
about the middle of August, after which I will report progress. I 
cannot say anything definite about their temper yet, but they seem 
to be mild tempered, as they not only work early, but aired them¬ 
selves at an earlier age than other sorts. I am favourably 
impressed. 
AGE OF BEE3. 
I have frequently given my experience of having bees living in- 
August that were hatched not later than the beginning of June the i 
previous year. A more interesting case is now under my notice. A. 
Syrian queen was expelled from the hive at the beginning of March,, 
apparently healthy looking, but exhausted for egg-laying • the 
healthy look is evidently due to the nourishment given her by her 
anxious daughters. After the expulsion of the queen a Carniolian 
was introduced. She, also, after two months was expelled in a 
similar condition. Latterly one of the Punic queens was intro¬ 
duced, and while I write the three different races occupy the hive;, 
showing Syrian bees that could not be hatched later than in the 
