144 
journal of horticulture and cottage gardener. 
[ August 15, 1889. 
made than can have full exposure to light. The fruit is now well 
advanced in swelling, ours are changing for ripening ; therefore spare no 
pains to keep the foliage clean by syringing in the morning and early 
afternoon. Do not syringe, however, if the day is likely to be dull, or 
in the afternoon if there is no prospect of the foliage becoming dry 
before night. Under such circumstances damp the border, especially in 
the afternoon, with liquid manure. Admit a little air early, increasing 
it with the sun heat, maintaining it through the day at 80® to 85° with 
free ventilation, closing early so as to run the temperature up to 90° or 
95°, and when the sun’s power is declining a little air may be admitted 
at the top of the house so as to allow the pent-up moisture to escape, 
■the temperature gradually cooling down. Water or liquid manure will 
be required once or twice a week, according to circumstances, in order 
to keep the soil thoroughly moist. When the fruit begins to ripen 
lessen the supply of water and discontinue syringing, securing a circu¬ 
lation of air constantly, and freely ventilate when favourable ; but sun 
teat should be husbanded, and will do no harm if the atmosphere is not 
■confined, a little ventilation being given so as to allow of the moisture 
escaping instead of condensing on the fruit and causing it to crack. 
Peaches and Nectarines.— Early Houses. —The foliage of trees 
■started in December and early January is now beginning to fall, the 
trees all the same must not lack moisture, affording water or liquid 
■manure to weakly trees as necessary to maintain the soil in a moist but 
not a saturated condition, as if too much water is given when the trees 
are going to rest, and the weather continues hot, the excessive moisture 
at the roots is apt to cause premature growth, which must be guarded 
against. It does not much matter about rain, as in that case the trees 
will be exposed, and the air is correspondingly cool ; indeed, rain has a 
most beneficial and invigorating tendency. As a safeguard against 
•starting the bloom buds, allow such laterals as are green and unripe to 
remain as an outlet for any excess of sap, they being equally effective 
in maintaining activity at the roots. Early forced trees do not as a 
■rule make strong growth, having generally a larger proportion of single 
fruit buds than trees grown under more favourable conditions, triple 
"buds not being so frequent ; hence in pruning it h not desirable to cut 
back next year’s bearing ■wood unless they are of great length, and not 
■then unless necessary to originate growths for the furnishing of the 
■trees, or to secure an evenly balanced head. Very little pruning will 
fie needed provided disbudding has been attended to, no more wood 
being trained in than is required to replace the bearing wood of the 
■current year, and to renew worn-out growths, as well as to provide for 
the proper extension of the trees. Trees that have long been subjected 
to early forcing are seldom vigorous, but not infrequently become so 
•enfeebled as to need the removal of the weak growths, which, though 
plentifully furnished with fruit buds, are undesirable from their afford¬ 
ing much smaller fruits than are yielded by the moderately vigorous 
and well-ripened growths. Some trees, however, from their indifferent 
■crops make too vigorous or long-jointed wood, pushing laterals difficult 
to restrain, if they do not frustrate the formation of fruit buds, and 
interfere with an equal distribution of the sap. Any trees which grow 
too luxuriantly must be lifted, whilst those which are showing symp¬ 
toms of weakness may have the old soil carefully removed from amongst 
the roots, applying fresh turfy loam with about a twentieth part of 
crushed bones and wood ashes mixed. Give a good watering both to the 
lifted trees and to those that have had the soil renewed about the roots. 
These operations require to be performed as soon as the leaves are 
■mature, and before they fall from the trees. 
Succession Houses .—Do not neglect to cut away the shoots that have 
'berne fruit unless required for extension, and all the shoots where 
the growths are too crowded shou'd be thinned. This will allow the 
foliage to be more readily cleansed by the syringing, repeating as neces- 
-sary, it being important that the foliage be kept clean and healthy as 
long as possible. With the freer access of light and air the buds will 
form perfectly, attention being given to a due supply of water to the 
Toots. Where the fruit is ripening a free circulation of air will enhance 
•the quality considerably, sufficient water only being given at the roots 
*to prevent the foliage becoming limp, and secure air moisture by an 
•occasional damping for the benefit of the foliage, also fruit, which in 
an arid atmosphere is liable to become mealy, whilst it ripens pre¬ 
maturely if the trees suffer for a proper supply of moisture in the soil. 
.Ants in some cases are apt to be troublesome, eating into the choicest 
and best fruits. Perhaps the best remedy is to procure a mixture of 
ffioney with arsenic duly prepared by a chemist, but we have a strong 
aversion to its use in fruit houses after the fruit commences ripening, 
therefore sink some saucers in the ground level with their edges, and as 
■near the stems of the trees as practicable, pouring syrup or treacle into 
■each saucer. The active creatures leave the fruit for the sweetness. 
'■Our greatest trouble this year are slugs, they are a perfect nuisance, 
attacking Nectarines in great force, and are not readily detected amongst 
•the foliage with a lantern, which, however is the only means of riddance, 
and to prevent their excursions have wrapped some cotton wadding 
•around the stems of the trees. The slugs do not like the downy skin of 
the Peach nearly as well as the smooth one of the Nectarine. 
Late Houses. —Attend to thinning and regulating the summer 
•growths, and if they are laid in thinner than is customary with trees 
in.earlier houses the wood will have a better chance to ripen. Gross 
growths appropriate an undue amount of sap, preventing an equal dis¬ 
tribution, and favour nothing but unfruitfulness and gumming. They 
must be stopped or removed. Endeavour to secure an even balance of 
moderately strong short-jointed wood, and to ensure its ripening ventilate 
•freely in the early part of the day, allowing a good heat from sun 
through the day, closing in good time so as to run up to 85° or more, 
for sun heat after evaporation has been going on some time will not do 
any harm if only care is taken to admit a little air before nightfall to 
allow the pent up heat and concomitant moisture to escape, and the 
gradual cooling down of the temperature, thereby securing rest. The 
night and early ventilation tends to the solidification of the wood and 
its ripening. Keep the trees free from red spider by forcible syringinas 
until the fruits give indications of ripening. The borders must be well 
supplied with water or liquid manure, and be mulched with short 
manure. 
Vines. —Early Houses.— The Vines have the wood ripe, and the 
foliage or some of it is falling, but there must not be any attempt at 
removing it, nor to cut the laterals closely in, as that would probably 
cause the principal buds to start; therefore remove the laterals by 
degrees and shorten some of the long shoots, preserving, however, some 
growth, especially when the principal leaves are down, above the buis to 
which the Vines are to be pruned, the final pruning being deferred 
until the early part of next month. The old surface soil should be re¬ 
moved and forked from amongst the roots, taking the opportunity of 
raising any that are deep and laying them in fresh material nearer the 
surface. Good calcareous loam is the most suitable, with a twentieth 
of crushed bones and wood ashes. If the soil be light add a sixth of 
clayey marl ; if heavy, a sixth of old mortar rubbish. Charcoal is an 
excellent addition to the extent of a tenth. Give a moderate watering, 
and the roots will push, especially adventitious ones, from near the 
collar into the new soil above, and be in capital condition for a start 
when the time comes round. When lifting or renovating the border is 
deferred until the leaves are all down the start is not nearly so satisfac¬ 
tory. 
ATidseason Houses. —The Vines have done well as regards crop, but 
there is probably more shanking and want of colour in Grapes than 
usual. This may be an outcome of last year’s cold, moist weather, and 
want of sun. The Grapes have been slow in acquiring bloom and 
colour, and though not so well furnished as desirable the berries are 
larger than ordinary, and are pronounced excellent in quality. Red 
spider has been rather troublesome, and though we have tried most 
remedies we find thinly coating the pipes whilst hot with a thin wash of 
sulphur and skim milk most efficacious. Copious supplies of water 
through a good surface mulching and occasional supplies of liquid 
manure of a sustaining rather than of a stimulating kind are most con¬ 
tributory to a satisfactory result. Madresfield Court is taking its place 
—the foremost of midseason Grapes. Fire heat has been necessary to 
secure the necessary ventilation by night as well as day and secure a 
circulation of air. The heat, however, has been kept down at night so 
as to give time and rest to Vines carrying heavy crops in order to perfect 
them. 
Late Houses.— Continue to afford full supplies of water through a 
good surface mulching, and until the Grapes are well advanced in colour, 
for most late Grapes take a long time to perfect thoroughly ; and some, 
particularly Mrs. Pince (which has a larger per-centage this year of 
stoneless berries than common), even after appearing finished, are not so 
up to the shank, which is often a consequence of too early stopping the 
supplies of food, and in some cases the result of a too short duration 
of the feeding is manifest in the Grapes shrinking. All late Grapes 
require time ; they ought now to be colouring or advanced therein, and 
then they will, with a circulation of warm rather dry air constantly, 
attain a fulness of berry and a perfection of finish. Indeed, poverty of 
finish is the chief cause of shrivelled Muscats and others shrinking after 
they have hung some time. Afford a temperature of 70° to 75° by day 
artificially, 80’ to 90° with sun, and close sufficiently early to increase 
to 90° or 95°. When the sun is losing power put on enough top and 
bottom air to insure a circulation ; a'low the temperature to gradually 
cool, which rests the Vines, and increase the ventilation early with the 
advancing temperature. The pipes should, if necessary, have a little 
warmth in them, to prevent the temperature falling below 65° at 
night. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Propagating Summer Bedding P ants. —An early start must be 
made with the propagation of various bedding plants in order to have a 
good stock for keeping through the winter. In many instance the cut¬ 
tings are softer and more plentiful than usual, and no difficulty ought to 
be experienced in striking sufficient of them. 
Tuberous Begonias.— Few realise how very easily these may be 
raised from cuttings. Now there are so many superior varieties that 
can be obtained from seed or bought at a comparatively cheap rate it is 
unwise to perpetuate the stock of inferior forms, and only the best, 
therefore, should be marked both for propagating and storing purposes. 
Any side shoots that can well be spared from plants either in beds or 
pots shouldibe taken off-cut to a joint, the lower leaves being trimmed 
off, and then dibbled into a bed of sandy soil and covered with hand- 
lights ; or if they are plentiful a few inches of sandy soil may be placed 
on a shallow bed of half-decayed manure in a frame and the cuttings 
inserted in this. They require no shade or bottom heat, and only 
enough water to prevent shrivelling. Earlier in the season cuttings will 
strike root in a sunny border as readily as Zonal Pelargoniums, but it is 
rather late to try this plan now. These late-struck cuttings will make 
no top growth, but will form small bulbs, which may be lifted, stored in 
dry sand during the winter, and when started into growth next spring 
will surpass, as far as vigour is concerned, any that may be raised from 
seed. 
Verbenas. —Although not so much grown as of old they are still a 
