150 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
[ August 22, 188'.. 
pickling and other culinary purposes ; Parsley, flavouring herbs, 
Mushrooms, and other edible fungi, new vegetables, and vegetables 
comparatively unknown. The enumeration indicates the compre¬ 
hensiveness as well as the simplicity of the scheme, and as only 
small quantities of each are asked for—an ordinary dish, as stipu¬ 
lated—the greatest number can contribute of what they have in 
presentable condition at the time. 
There is no appeal to mercenary motives in this Conference. 
It is based on altogether higher ground than that, and there are 
plenty of men in the gardening ranks who, though not rich in this 
world’s goods, will respond from a feeling of loyalty to the craft 
they adorn ; but though no prizes are offered, “ certificates of 
merit will be awarded in each class to well-grown examples as 
standards of excellence,” and these will be worth possessing. 
Yet, though no prizes are offered, we should like to see what we 
do not observe in the schedule — namely, a certain number of medals 
placed at the disposal of the examiners for complete collections 
of vegetables as representing the current supply in the gardens in 
charge of contributors of such collections. This would not be 
competitive, any more than collections of plants at the Drill Hall 
are, and for which medals are recommended at every fortnightly 
meeting. Surely gardeners who give evidence of their foresight 
and cultural skill in the manner suggested are at least as worthy 
of receiving such honours as are growers of plants for sale, who in 
other ways derive profit from their exhibits, or they would not, 
perhaps, be so freely displayed. This idea is respectfully com¬ 
mended to the consideration of the Council of the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society, and if they cannot, on reflection, see anything 
in it, we suspect the gardeners of England can, and in that term is 
included the equally good men of Scotland, Ireland, and Wales. Why 
should growers of plants and flowers who admittedly, and properly 
in the way of business, exhibit at the Drill Hall for gain be 
honoured with medals for benefiting themselves while gardeners 
who contribute useful produce to the Chiswick conferences for 
the benefit of others have none ? That they will contribute 
there is no doubt, and all the more honour to them for their 
disinterested efforts ; but so long as the distinction continues it 
will be an anomaly, and anomalies will become increasingly 
unpopular unless we misinterpret the signs of the times. 
We had written thus far when a digest of the proceedings came 
to hand, and that portion of it which is not embodied in the fore¬ 
going remarks is appended :— 
“ For the selecting of the best types of the several products 
exhibited committees of experts ■will be appointed, who will report 
upon those considered the best adapted for general cultivation both 
for profit and high quality. The reports will be made public for 
the general advantage when they have received the imprimatur of 
the Council. In the conference free discussion will be invited on 
the proposals made in the several papers to be read. These include 
the following subjects, to be introduced by the persons named in 
connection with them : — ‘ Asparagus,’ by Mr. Shirley Hibberd ; 
‘ Winter Salads,’ by Mr. Norman ; ! Food of Vegetables,’ Mr. J. 
Wright ; 1 Improvement of Peas,’ by Mr. T. Laxton ; ‘ Improve¬ 
ment of Potatoes,’ Mr. A. Dean ; ‘ Vegetable Supply Throughout 
the Year,’ Mr. J. Smith of Mentmore. 
“ On the first day, September 24th, the proceedings at Chiswick 
will be followed by a gardeners’ dinner at the Cannon Street Hotel, 
Mr. H. J. Veitch in the chair ; on the second day, September 25th, 
the reports of committees will be presented ; on the third day, 
September 2(ith, the larger questions of improving the products of 
the vegetable garden will be discussed. Mr. Harry J. Veitch is 
appointed Chairman of the Conference, Mr. Shirley Hibberd Vice- 
Chairman. Schedules and all other particulars are obtainable 
at the offices of the Royal Horticultural Society, 117, Victoria 
Street, S.W.; or of Mr. A. F. Barron at the Society’s garden 
Chiswick.” 
As we observed last week, now the scope of the Conference is 
made known, it may possibly be in time for enabling gardeners and 
others interested in vegetable products and the proceedings 
indicated, to make arrangements for visiting the metropolis on the 
dates above named. 
CAMELLIA BUDS FALLING. 
The principal cause of Camellia buds and flowers falling is-- 
unripened wood. From the time the wood has lengthened out and 
the flower buds have commenced forming the treatment of the 
plants should be gradually changed. A close, warm, moist 
atmosphere, with shade from the sun, suits them admirably during 
the season of growth, but must be discontinued by the time the 
foliage has become firm and leathery. When it is in that condition 
admit more light, maintain a drier atmosphere, with more a-ir 
until full ventilation can be given. During spells of dull, damp, 
sunless weather artificial heat may be employed during the 
day with ventilation. At night the house should be kept cool. 
This is not necessary for plants that are assisted to make and 
complete their growth early in the season, for those subjected to this; 
treatment invariably retain their buds and flowers until they fall in. 
a natural manner. On the other hand, plants that make their 
growth under almost natural treatment, except that they are shaded 
from the sun, and often unduly so, frequently cast their buds. If 1 
the autumn prove unfavourable the wood has very little chance of 
becoming firm and ripe. Devote every attention to plants in this- 
condition, for chances of success are remote unless the wood is. 
thoroughly brown to the base of the flower buds before they are 
half developed. The best means of avoiding the buds falling 
through unripened wood is to push the plants into growth a« 
rapidly as possible after they have flowered, and not allow them to- 
move forward under natural conditions. More light should also 
be admitted to plants that do not flower before April and May 
than is necessary for those that flower earlier and have all the- 
best months of the year in which to mature their wood. The fact 
must not be lost sight of, that it is easier and safer to force the- 
Camellia during the season of growth than after the buds have 
formed. 
It is a common practice in gardens, especially with those who- 
have limited glass structures at their command, to turn plants out¬ 
side during the summer months. Many evils result from such 
treatment unless the utmost care is exercised. A light but shady 
position is generally selected for these plants outside. We have- 
seen them arranged under trees, and no more injudicious treatment 
can be followed. Those who have plants in shady positions would 
act wisely in removing them at once to an open sunny spot, where 
they can be shaded only from rough winds. If the plants will bear 
full or nearly full exposure under glass the force of the sun proves 
beneficial, not the reverse, outside. A sunny spot is necessary to- 
ripen the wood sufficiently to enable the plants to retain their buds 
and flowers. All that is needed when the plants are exposed to the 
sun is the protection of their pots on the sunny side, either by- 
plunging them, or using old mats or any other material to break the 
full force of the sun. 
Plants that have been outside for some weeks or months are 
greatly benefited by night dews, and require in consequence the 
most careful treatment after they are first housed. Special treat¬ 
ment must be given them and the internal atmosphere made to 
correspond as nearly as possible with what they have enjoyed out¬ 
side. The higher temperature and drier atmosphere of a glass 
structure is sure to prove injurious. The change is too sudden, and 
frequently is sufficient to cause the buds to fall. Keep the house 
at first as cool as possible, moist, and the plants liberally syringed : 
in fact, any change in their treatment should be of the most 
gradual description. Too much care in this matter cannot well be 
exercised. On no account discontinue syringing suddenly, or raise 
the temperature, and discontinue the supply of moisture in the 
atmosphere during the swelling of the buds. 
Strong stimulants in any stage of growth do more harm than 
good, and if practised after the buds have set they are very liable 
to fall. Overfeeding must be avoided. Weak stimulants prove 
beneficial, and are most needed by the plants during the time the 
flower buds are swelling. Do not discontinue the application of 
stimulants suddenly, but give them it weaker until it can be omitted 
without the least fear of the plants suffering. 
Bud-falling is sometimes due to the poverty of the soil in 
which the plants are grown. Feeding in such cases must be prac¬ 
tised, but it is infinitely better to supply the plants with a quantity 
of fresh soil than to leave them dependant on liquid or artificial 
manures. If the plants are grown in pots or tubs this difficulty 
can readily be overcome by placing them into others of a larger 
size or giving rich top-dressings annually. If planted out dig 
round them and place fibry loam, in which a few bones have been 
mixed, close to the roots, so that they will have an opportunity of 
