August 29, 1889. J 
.JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
18(7 
infallible remedy for indifferent setting and uncertainty of stoning. 
Any trees that do not ripen the wood well must be reduced at the roots 
by forming a trench, so as to detach the roots at about one-third the 
distance from the stem the trees cover on the trellis, doing it about the 
end of September or as early in October as the fruit is gathered. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Propagating Zonal Pelargoniums. —Zonal Pelargoniums have in 
most instances grown only too well, and have not flowered so freely 
accordingly. There is no lack, therefore, of cuttings, but owing to the 
sappy nature of these, more than ordinary pains must be taken in their 
propagation. The sooner the cuttings are taken the better is the prospect 
of a good strike being effected. No plants are more easily raised from 
cuttings, but unfortunately their pre=ervation during the winter is not 
such a very simple matter even with the aid of modern well constructed 
properly heated structures. The intelligent grower, therefore, not only 
studies how best to root abundance of cuttings, but is most concerned 
as to the best methods of storing them through the winter. In any 
case so sappy are the cuttings that it is advisable to resort to the old 
method of spreading them, after they are duly trimmed, in the sunshine 
for a few hours in order to get rid of superfluous sap, and to dry the 
wounds. Nor after the cuttings are once inserted in boxes, pans, or 
pots should they be exposed to all weathers, a saturated soil proving 
fatal to innumerable sappy shoots. All should be placed in a sunny 
position under glass and given plenty of air, but no water more than is 
necessary to prevent their shrivelling badly. At no time during the 
autumn and winter months ought they to have more than sufficient to 
just keep them alive and plump, late formed growth being less hardy 
and more liable to damp off wholesale. 
Pots versus Box“s. —Where extra large numbers of Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums are annually bedded out there is the greatest need for striking 
and storing them rather thickly in shallow well drained boxes, but 
in most instances it will be found that a much greater per-centage 
of young plants can be preserved during the winter in comparatively 
small pots. When once a mass of soil in a box becomes very wet it 
does not become dry again for a long time, and this is the most frequent 
cause of numerous failures. When, however, the cuttings are inserted 
rather thickly in small pots, or say as many as six in a 4-inch pot, these 
rarely get too much water, and all usually turn out strong in the spring. 
The least that can be done in that direction is to give all the delicate 
broDze, golden, and tricolor varieties the benefit of small pots, and other 
conditions being favourable, very few indeed will be lost. Small pots 
or any size up to 6-inch pots, in every case well drained, may be filled 
with light sandy soil, and after the cuttings are firmly inserted in them 
place them on suspended shelves in Peach houses, and the high back 
shelves as well as the front staging in vineries, where they are to remain 
all the winter. 
Planting Choice Narcissi and Daffodils. —In many instance those 
who ordered bulbs of these early, or while yet many were in flower, 
have already received the dry bulbs, and the inexperienced, especially, 
are at a loss to know what is best to be done with them. As a rule, the 
sooner the bulbs are planted the better, and they pay for any little 
extra trouble taken with them. They ought to be p'anted where they 
need not be disturbed for several yea*s, or till such time as they are too 
thick and require to be lifted and divided. For several reasons they 
should be planted in clumps of three or more bulbs, and if the natural 
soil is very poor, a little sandy loamy compost may be substituted with 
advantage. All ought to be planted fully 6 inches deep, and be duly 
labelled. It will be found that Daffodils especially succeed admirably 
among trees, a little shade benefiting them rather than otherwise ; the 
herbaceous border, however, being a good locality for the choicer 
varieties of both Narcissi and Daffodils. The very popular Narcissus 
poeticus, or Pheasant’s Eye, does not move well in a dry state, but if 
lifted, divided, and replanted soon after they have commenced to root 
freely, all sufficient'y strong will flower in due course, and also increase 
in size considerably. 
Snowdrops .—These again are much best left alone where they are 
well established, but if dry bulbs are obtained these should be planted 
either in patches or drills at once, and about 2 inches below the surface. 
Old clumps may safely he lifted and partially divided directly the points 
of the leaves are seen through the soil, this having no ill effect on their 
flowering. 
Lilium candidum. —It is not advisable to often disturb these, but if 
necessary, the clumps may be lifted, divided, and replanted now. During 
the past season disease has played great havoc among the stock of plants 
in numerous gardens, and for this there is no remedy—all alike, and 
under various conditions, suffering from it. A good depth of fresh 
loamy soil best suits it, the bulb3 being placed just below the surface 
and good care taken of the leafy top growth. It is wonderfully effective 
in clumps at the back of an herbaceous border, and is very serviceable 
in a cut state. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Azaleas. —These plants are trained as pyramids and into other 
shapes in the majority of gardens. Although we do not admire closely 
trained formal specimens, it is necessary to keep them in good condition 
where they exist. Tying and training are often work for the winter 
months, but it is a mistake to defer this operation till so late in the 
season. When the shoots are tied in at that period of the year the 
plants very rarely display their flowers to the best advantage. After 
the buds are set tying should be pushed forward from time to time and 
completed as early as possible. This allows of the shoots turning out¬ 
wards again to the light, and thus show their flowers to advantage. The 
plants in addition are neater over a much longer period, in fact the 
majority of the ties are concealed by the foliage. Before they are tied 
in closely, however, carefully inspect the plants, and if any trace of 
thrips can be found wash them thoroughly in a solution of tobacco 
water in which about half an ounce of 3oftsoap has been dissolved to 
each gallon of the mixture. A piece of common washing soda the size 
of a cob nut may also be dissolved in the same quantity. Assist later 
plants to complete and ripen their wood as quickly as possible, and all 
shade should be discontinued after the flower buds are set. Keep the- 
plants liberally supplied with water, use the syringe twice daily when' 
fine, and give abundance of air. Where plants have been stood outside 
prepare for housing them. 
Greenhouse Rhododendrons. —Do not stand these outside after the com¬ 
pletion of their growth, for if they become saturated by heavy rains more- 
harm than good is done. When plants have completed their growth do- 
not syringe them, and maintain a slightly drier atmosphere until it is 
certain that the flower buds have commenced swelling. The syringe may 
then be used freely to keep down thrips, the greatest enemy to these plants. 
This insect is readily detected, for it rarely attacks the under side of the 
foliage. The smaller growing forms are more subject to it than those 
that make strong leathery leaves. Be careful not to allow these plants 
to become dry at their roots, and, on the other hand, do not overwater 
them. Admit abundance of light to harden and ripen their wood, and 
keep the plants standing on a moisture-holding base. 
Lapagerias. —Thrips generally appear at this stage of the plant’s- 
growth—that is, when growth is completed and the flowers are showing. 
If the plants are not thoroughly cleaned now very little can be done- 
as the flowers commence opening without injury to them, especially in 
the case of the white form. Syringe the plants for the eradication ok 
thrips with tobacco water. 
Ahutions. —Strong plants in Sand 6-inch pots may be placed into¬ 
others 2 and 3 inches larger. The white form is very useful for wreaths- 
with the yellow nipped out. Plants potted now and grown from the 
middle of September in a temperature of 60° will continue to grow and 
yield flowers throughout the winter. It is important to give the plants- 
moderate root room when required for this purpose. They do well in 
loam, one-seventh of manure, and a little sand. 
Tuberoses. —Tubers that were potted late and have since been grown, 
under cool airy treatment will be showing their flower stems. These- 
may be introduced, according to requirements, to some structure that 
can be kept moderately close to bring them into flower. The flowers 
are useful from the end of September for a variety of purposes, and a 
succession with care can be maintained for a long time by the intro¬ 
duction of a few plants at intervals of a fortnight. Give weak stimu¬ 
lants directly the flower stems are visible. 
EXPERIENCES AT THE HEATHER. 
As I previously reported the quantity of honey gathered between) 
the 24th July and 1st August, I need say no more about that than 
it necessitated me being in constant attendance. I went to the- 
moors on the 9th of August, where I am still, and likely to be till, 
the end of the month, owing to the bee3 persistently swarming. 
THE FIRST SWARM. 
This issued a few minutes after my arrival, and while I was- 
preparing to leave them, and would have been lost had I not 
delayed a little to write a letter upon the door of a passing cart, 
which the driver undertook to post, when the issuing swarm 
aanoyed the horse. That betrayed their actions and caused me to 
cut short, so that the animal could get out of the way, as it was 
with deep regret I read the account of persons in charge of 
bees being stung and a valuable horse stung to death through 
carelessness. 
WHO IS TO BLAME? 
I have repeatedly warned bee-keepers against sending bees to the 
moors by cart or rail imperfectly secured. I have also shown how 
hives should be constructed so that no mishap could possibly occur, 1 
alike securing bees, man, and beast from injury. All the years I 
have taken bees to the Heather no accidents of that kind have 
happened. So far as I can judge the mishap alluded to occurred' 
through the wedges that hold the floor close to the hive—a very 
defective arrangement; and yet this contrivance was much boasted 
