September 12, 18$ 9 . ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
223 
stakes, which should be as strong and neat as possible, taking care to 
give long stakes to the tall growers, and vice versa. As the staking pro¬ 
ceeds have some raffia ready to tie the plants to the stakes, also a basket 
filled with small pots, with a little moss or hay inside, so that they can 
be put upon the top of the stakes as a trap for earwigs. The pots should 
be taken off every morning or evening to see if there are any earwigs 
lurking inside the moss. Have a piece of stick in the hand, and kill all 
intruders.. This is the quickest and most effective way ; better, I think, 
than shaking them out, as many escape by that method. The course 
above recommended has its disadvantages, for the earwigs smell very 
unpleasantly ; but still the Dahlia grower is not as a rule very fastidious 
so long as his plants are doing well. While I am speaking of insect 
plagues I might as well mention that if the weather is very dry the 
black fly often makes its appearance at the end of June or early in July. 
This is. a sad scourge, and taxes our patience as much as anything. 
Syringing of an evening with tobacco water or quassia is a good plan, 
also dusting the affected plants with snuff or tobacco powder ; either 
will certainly act as a check upon them. 
By the middle of July it will be necessary to thin some of their 
branches, as too much growth prevents the production of fine flowers. 
This operation must be regulated by the nature of the variety ; some are 
apt to come large and coarse, from such we must cut away very little, 
or perhaps not any. The smaller varieties must be cut somewhat 
severely. When this is done, put side stakes to the plants, one to each 
branch, to prevent wind breaking them. I find four side stakes and 
one centre generally sufficient. A good mulching of dung, straw, or 
anything that will prevent the evaporation of the moisture that is now 
necessary to the Dahlia must be given before the p'ants get too large. 
This plan is also useful for another reason ; that you can walk upon the 
ground better, as it will not pick up so, or cling to the feet to convey 
loose soil to the paths, which it would do after a heavy rain or watering, 
for now the plants will want plenty of water ; hard-eyed flowers, such 
as George Rawlings or Prince Bismarck, will want an extra supply. 
Many varieties will begin to show their buds ; these must be picked 
off, unless wanted for very early shows. These early blooms weaken 
the plants, and are mostly poor, even if left on. Early Dahlia blooms 
are really not wanted in the garden, for they are badly shaped, and with 
nothing -special in colour to recommend them. This remark refers to 
Show varieties only, not to Cactus or Pompon Dahlias. If the centre 
buds are picked off the side branches will soon begin to show buds. 
These can be left, and as soon as they grow as large as a pea, can be 
thinned to one on a branch, or rather sub-branches, for the plants by 
this time will have broken into perhaps ten or twelve branches, and you 
may have one bud to each. In many varieties perhaps the plant had 
better be thinned to six or eight branches to get the blooms fit for the 
exhibition table. Such varieties as Bendigo and King of the Purples 
may be cited in illustration ; while varieties like T. J. Saltmarsh, John 
Standish, or Mrs. Langtry, may be allowed to carry twelve or more. 
Many amateurs find a difficulty to know what buds to leave in thiuning, 
but I have found from the time the bud first shows itself to the time it 
is ready for cutting, a month is just sufficient. I find sprinkling with a 
rose-can very helpful after a hot drying day, as it assists the plants to 
recover the loss they have sustained during the day. 
When the florets of the buds are beginning to show the earwig3 
begin their .depredations in earnest. What is more trying than to find 
of a morning promising buds spoilt by being gnawed all round the edges 
by these pests ? A piece of wadding tied loosely round the stalk of the 
buds will be a great check, also liquid indiarubber put on the stalks of 
the buds ; this, however, is rather dangerous if used too freely, for the 
sun sometimes heats the rubber, and burns through part of the stalk. 
But then any remedy must be tried. Many place the buds in bags 
made of muslin, but I do not particularly like them, as they often cause 
the florets to crowd one another when they are fully out. The be3t 
flowers are those which have come out in the natural way with the 
softening influence of the dews, and no check to interfere with Nature’s 
plan of perfecting beauty. The grower must make up his mind to lose 
many buds under any circumstances. 
About twelve or fourteen days before the Show it will be advisable 
to “pot” up a few buds—that is, place an inverted 32-size pot over 
them ; this is done by having a stake put in the ground, and a piece 
of wood a little larger than the pot, with a slit in it for the stalk of the 
bud, the wood to be lifted up to the height of the bud, and then made 
secure to the stake. The pot will get warm by the sun s rays, and will 
be a little forcing house for the bud. Take care to stop all crevices, as 
the earwigs will otherwise think the pots are put there for their benefit. 
Should the buds look as though they will be too forward after four or 
five days take the next forward buds, and do as in the former case ; but 
be very careful over those that have been taken out of the pots, as with 
care many will be very useful. Put some wadding round them, and 
shade or otherwise try and keep them. In selecting the buds choose 
always those with little pin-ho'es in them, as they always make the best 
blooms. There is one thing putting buds under pots will do—that is, it 
will make light flowers purer in colour, also tips more distinct; for 
instance, Mrs. Gladstone will come nearly white, and such as Mrs. 
Saunders clear and cleanly tipped. 
As the flowers begin to come out, it will be often necessary to cover 
with shades worked on the same system as the boards for potting the 
buds. This will retard the flowers, and also protect them from damage 
by sun and drying winds. Take care the flowers are made secure, 
otherwise they will chafe. By no means let the plant suffer for water, 
as now it will require a lot; perhaps a weak stimulant will be required 
for some sorts. But if the plants have been well looked after in their 
earlier stages they will do without it. Stimulants at this period often 
excite the plants, and cause them to throw out unshapely petals, or 
perhaps even to cast them all. There will not be much peace for the 
grower, as the blooms will require constant attention by night and day, 
as caterpillars and other insects will soon ravage them. Take a lantern 
out at night and there will be seen earwigs and other marauders busily 
engaged in undoing what has been done. 
The morning before the show it will be wise to examine the blooms, 
and if there are any doubtful ones not likely to stand the full time, 
cut them and put in a cool and dark place without water. By this 
procedure many valuable blooms will be saved. Never cut when the 
•abloom are soft, as I think they shrink up when the sun is out. Cut 
• early in the morning or late at night, when they are stiff and fresh. It 
is surprising how they will open after a heavy shower or heavy dew. 
When cutting have tubes, corks, and boxes all ready, so that they can be 
put right away without a lot of handling, as they do not improve by 
being pulled about. But it is needless for me to go any further, as the 
grower is quite conversant how to cut and stage them. I have given 
briefly my experiences in these few remarks, trusting they may benefit 
some one or more, and interest them to grow the noble Queen of 
Autumn, for which we are all grateful to the Marchioness of Bute for 
introducing 100 years ago. Let all those who would like to show their 
gratitude liberally subscribe to our National Society, so that the grand 
old flower may be still further improved and kept full in view of the 
British public. 
POMPON, SINGLE, AND DECORATIVE DAHLIAS. 
[By Joseph Cheal, Crawley, Sussex.] 
POMPON OR BOUQUET. 
This section resembles the large Show Dahlia in all points with the 
exception of one—that of size. Circular outline, evenness in petal, 
with a well-raised centre are the principal points, but the smaller the 
flow r er the better. Many of the earlier varieties appear to have been 
introduced from Germany, but steady progress has been made in improv¬ 
ing the strain in this country until many of those now in cultivation 
are perfect little gems of beauty—small, refined, and of brilliant colours. 
As garden plants they are such early and abundant bloomers that they 
form striking objects in beds or borders. The flowers being so small 
and refined in character they can be used as cut flowers in almost any 
kind of decoration. A few of the best varieties are the following :— 
Admiration, Cupid, Darkness, E. F. Jungker, Eli Millard, Favourite, 
Golden Gem, Grace, Guiding Star, Isabel, Iolanthe, Rosalie, Little 
Duchess, Little Bobby, Lady Blanche, Gem, Whisper, Little Ethel. 
SINGLES. 
A correspondent, writing to the “Florists’ Register” of 1831, on the 
properties of the Dahlia, says, “ Our former observations on the proper¬ 
ties of this all-attractive flower having given great satisfaction, and the 
opinions of many eminent growers coinciding with them in every 
particular, it would seem prudent to let well enough alone, and not by 
detafling too nicely our own notions of perfection to endanger the 
unanimity of feeling which pervades the fancy as to general principles.” 
I, too, may be running a chance of endangering unanimity of feeling 
in the next subjects with which I have to deal by detailing too nicely 
my own notions of perfection. Some of the enthusiastic growers of 
the old Show varieties consider the re-introduction of the singles as 
altogether a retrograde movement. Others think that the lightness, 
freedom, and brilliancy of the singles are more to be desired than the 
more weighty doubles. Since the double form appeared at the com¬ 
mencement of the century such development and steady progress have 
taken place that they seem to have attained about the height of perfec¬ 
tion. So perfect, indeed so excellently modelled, so superb are they 
as now grown, that the very perfection became almost painful, and the 
least flaw or irregularity became perfectly unbearable. To such a 
degree of excellence have they attained that there was nothing more, to 
strive after or possible to attain ; we therefore find growers retracing 
their steps, and returning to first principles, and setting out anew from 
the starting point, hence a somewhat sudden reappearance of the 
single type of Dahlia. From the pretty little Dahlia glabrata, intro¬ 
duced in 1840, and crossed with the Dahlia coccinea subsequently 
introduced, new forms and bright coloui’3 very soon appeared. 
About the only old variety that appeared in its original form was 
Paragon. This was in existence in 1834, and I find it described in the 
catalogue of “ Superb Dahlias,” sold by Samuel Apply, of Doncaster, for 
that year. And strange to say, Paragon still holds a place amongst the 
twenty best varieties for exhibition. The brilliancy ami variety of 
colour and form in the singles is now through hybridisation so great 
that the cultivator may, be he ever so fastidious, suit his taste and fancy 
in selecting from them his particular favourites. But there are certain 
very distinct types and forms to be desired and sought for, and Nature 
is here so generous that it is comparatively easy to select desirable 
strains or plants. 
Cultivators very generally discard all flowers of a large size ; these 
usually have a coarse appearance, and almost invariably, from the weight 
of the bloom, hang their heads and hide what beauty they may possess 
on the plant, and are, when cut, heavy, unmanageable, and useless for 
decoration. Therefore, flowers of medium and small size are much to be 
desired, and particularly those that are borne on erect, stiff stalks. As 
to form, the flowers should be as circular and even, in outline as possible, 
the petals flat and even, neatly and closely fitting or overlapping each 
I other, and well recurved. A flower of this form not only presents a 
