25 G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 19, 1889. 
Wasp-killing- Mixture (R. R .).—Possibly there may have been 
more than one preparation advertised, and we cannot tell to what you 
particularly refer. Messrs. Barclay & Sons, Farringdon Street, have ad¬ 
vertised a preparation called <! Death to Wasps.” If that is what you 
mean, we think it can be obtained through chemists. 
Caterpillars and Fruit Trees (P. M.). —For the purpose of pre¬ 
venting the wingless female winter moths (cheimatobia) ascending the 
stems of trees, stout paper is tied round them, and this is thickly 
smeared with equal parts of Stockholm tar and cart grease. Some 
persons apply it to the bark, but we do not recommend the plan. Miss 
Ormerod suggests that haybands mixed in tar and oil, then laid round 
the stems of the trees, not quite touching them, might answer. Mr. 
S. T. Wright, Glewston Court, where fruit trees are extensively and 
admirably grown, did not find the glutinous barriers effectual, but we 
do not know at what period of the year he provided them. The moths 
■emerge towards the end of October, and continue ascending the trees at 
night for several weeks. 
Contents of Fruit Sieves (A. J. iV!). —Market measures vary in 
different districts. We presume you desire to know the nature of those 
in Covent Garden. They are as follow :—A half sieve contains 3J imperial 
•gallons. It averages 12J inches in diameter and 6 inches in depth. A 
sieve contains 7 imperial gallons. Diameter 15 inches, depth 8 inches. 
A sieve of Peas is equal to 1 bushel ; a sieve of Currants 20 quarts. 
A bushel sieve contains 10J imperial gallons. Diameter at top 17£ 
inches, at bottom 17 inches ; depth 11£ inches. A bushel basket ought, 
when heaped, to contain an imperial bushe Diameter at bottom 10 
inches, at top >14| inches; depth 17 inches. Walnuts, Nuts, Apples, 
and Potatoes are sold by this measure. A bushel of the last-named 
cleansed weighs 56 lbs., but 4 lbs. additional are allowed if they are not 
washed. A junk contains two-thirds of a bushel. 
Pruning Vines (Triceps ).—We should not like to grow a Vine 
for fourteen or fifteen years without fruiting, but as yours produced 
ifruit for the first time last year there appears a disposition to improve¬ 
ment. We suspect the Vine is in an enfeebled state, and copious 
supplies of liquid manure might be of great service. If the Vine is well 
supported at the roots it will push good growths after the rod is cut 
back as you propose, and if these are trained 18 inches apart grow 
strongly, reach the top of the house, and ripen well, they will bear much 
better Grapes than can be had from weak closely spurred laterals. If 
you had sent us a sample of the young wood we should be in a better 
position to advise you on the subject. Assuming you remove the rod, 
we should cut ba,ck the laterals to the best buds where the wood is firm, 
regardless of their distance from the main rods from which the laterals 
proceed. Some soil dug from the roots, adding fresh with wood ashes, 
surfacing with rich manure might induce the production of fresh roots 
for imbibing nutriment in the form of liquid manure. 
Transplanting Ferns (F. J.). —There is no better time for trans¬ 
planting herns than just as young fronds show signs of uncurling in 
the spring, the ground should be well broken up some time previously, 
as they will not thrive on a hard dry subsoil, and vegetable matter, such 
as may be gathered in plantations, should be liberally mixed in the soil. 
The common Bracken is one of the worst to transplant, because compact, 
well-rooted clumps, are the worst to secure. You must therefore 
■exercise care in selection. Dig the roots up in large squares, plant 
firmly, water well, and mulch thickly with decayed leaves to prevent 
the escape of moisture from the soil. The plots you desire to establish 
an the park should be protected from cattle, for though the animals 
may not eat the fronds, they would be certain to trample on the ground, 
nnd in that way render your work futile. During some seasons the 
growth of tiansplanted Brake Ferns is much better than in others, and 
>i£ you fail in the first attempt, try again. We have seen many failures 
and not a few successes in transplanting this Fern. 
Quick-growing Wall Plant (J. M.).~ To your query, “What is 
the most effectual plant for covering the walls of a large stone house 
with green stuff in the shortest possible time ?” our reply is, We do not 
■remember any plant more likely to answer than the Virginian Creeper 
Ampelopsis hederacea, but it rarely affords “ green stuff ” during the 
summer. 1 he rapidity of its growth also depends on the character of 
the soil ; the better and deeper this is, the sooner are walls covered. We 
know a brick wall facing the south that is now covered to a height of 
lo feet with growths of the present year, and we inserted cuttings”from 
a plant m July, the growths from these being now 6 feet high. This 
particular form clings fairly well to brick walls, but might not do so on 
a rough stone surface, but would probably require the support of nails 
and shreds. The small clinging A. Veitchi will adhere to any wall, 
and produces a more pleasing surface of “green stuff ” than the other 
but not auite so quickly. If you require an evergreen, plant a strong 
growing Ivy m rich soil, mulch with manure, and give water as is re- 
quired in the summer. If any of our readers can suggest plants more 
likely to answer your requirements they are quite at liberty to do so. 
Celery Fly-Tomatoes (IF. E. R.). —The Celery leaves contain 
•small maggots, which hatch from the eggs which a small fly (Tephritis) 
deposits in them, puncturing the surface for the purpose. When the 
maggots are numerous they eat out the substance of the leaves and 
often ruin the crops. When the first blister is seen gardeners dust the 
plants with soot frequently, and this deters the flies from visiting them, 
but soot will not destroy the maggots in the leaves. You had better 
pick off all the blistered parts and burn or bury them deeply, then dust 
with soot. Some gardeners save their crops by syringing the plants 
with petroleum, such as is burned in lamps, adding a small wineglassful 
or less to a gallon of water and mixing by violent agitation, which is 
continued during the time of application in the form of spray through a 
syringe. If the agitation is incomplete the oil floats on the water. The 
mixture should only be applied in the evening, as if the sun shines 
brightly on the leaves before the oil evaporates they are apt to be 
scorched. Well mixed and rightly used, we have known Celery kept 
clear of the enemy, and the maggots destroyed in the leaves. The nozzle 
of the syringe cannot be too finely perforated for the application. Try 
the effect of the mixture, applying it as best you can on half a dozen 
plants before using it extensively. The crimson Tomato you send is 
Dedham Favourite. It was distributed by Messrs. Carter & Co., and 
is a favourite with many persons besides yourself. The scars on the 
fruits of the other variety are not infrequent, and are the result of the 
adherence and decay of the stamens. 
Tuberose Culture (.7. S.). —The following simple method has been 
described by a very successful cultivator. Procure sound well-ripened 
bulbs as soon as you see them advertised. If in quantity divide them 
into two or three batches for succession. Pot the first at once, either 
three bulbs in a 32-sized pot, or one good bulb in a 48-pot. In either 
case use a rich loamy soil, or if the loam is poor add one-third of well- 
decayed manure that will pass through a quarter-inch sieve, and a little 
sand. Pot rather firmly, afterwards place them in a cold frame, or 
under the stage of a greenhouse where there is little or no drip from 
plants above, and cover them with cocoa-nut fibre refuse, fine coal ashes, 
or some other material that will run between the pots. This will keep 
the soil sufficiently moist for rooting to commence, which will begin in 
a fortnight. As they advance take them out, and for a few days place 
them in a position where they at first have but a moderate light, such 
as under the stage of a plant house. It will be seen that the young 
growth will gradually assume a natural colour, when the plants may 
have the full light and heat of an intermediate house. A stove heat is 
more than they need, and to have them in flower quickly a cool green¬ 
house is not sufficient. After making a little foliage the flower spikes 
begin to appear, and as they grow to from 2 to 4 feet in height and are 
very slender, a stake must be placed to each. Each spike if good will 
produce two dozen blooms in succession, pure white with a most deli¬ 
cious fragrance. When in bloom they are conspicuous if placed in the 
conservatory with the spike of flowers arising just above other plants, 
but they would be principally required for cutting. The perfume is 
strong, therefore for room or any part of house decoration too many 
must not be employed at one time. During growth the plants are sub¬ 
ject to the attacks of green and black aphides, which infest the spikes 
of flowers. Liquid manure given twice a week will be found to benefit 
the plants, and by potting in succession they may be had in flower 
during the greatest part of the year. They are among the most useful 
for cutting for bouquets, wreaths, and buttonholes, as they are sweet- 
scented, pretty, and last a long time. 
Diseased Tomatoes (S. E. C.). — The disease with which the 
examples sent are so seriously infested is, if not identical with, substan¬ 
tially the same as the Potato disease. It is caused by a fungus (Pereno- 
spora), and is induced by succulent growth caused by errors in watering 
and ventilation. When these errors occur in unheated houses the attack 
is often virulent, as in your case, and most difficult, if not impossible, to 
check. A high temperature and dry breezy atmosphere should be main¬ 
tained on the first appearance of the disease. All such fruits and leaves 
as you have sent should be cut off and burned, the house kept as dry as 
possible, the the more slightly affected parts well sulphured. A solution 
of sulphate of iron (green vitriol) is said to be an enemy of the disease, 
but it must be used experimentally, trying its effects on a plant or two 
at the rate of an ounce to 20 gallons of water, increasing or reducing 
the strength according to the results of the application. The leaves be¬ 
fore us are much too soft and destitute of tissue, hence in a condition 
peculiarly liable to injury and by fungoid attacks. Mr. Iggulden in Li j 
useful work on Tomatoes has the following remarks on the Peronospora 
attacking the plants :—“ Under glass, and especially in well-heated 
houses, it is possible to either prevent an outbreak of the Potato disease, 
or, at any rate, to materially check its progress. After repeated trials 
and close observation I have arrived at the conclusion that many failures 
are due to haphazard ventilation. A moist atmosphere is most favour¬ 
able to the outbreak and spread of the disease, and it is my belief the 
spores are generally admitted through the front lights. In windy, sun¬ 
less, rainy weather these ought, therefore, to be kept nearly or quite 
closed, the top lights being opened, and if possible sufficient fire heat 
afforded to maintain a buoyant atmosphere. Nor shoull a current of 
moist and, it may be, disease-laden air be allowed to pass through pits 
and frames when these are planted with Tomatoes. In clear warm 
weather the lights may either be drawn off or blocked up in the centre, 
but when disease is in the air the lights ought to be pushed down from 
the back only. Every affected leaf or a portion of a leaf should be re¬ 
moved directly it is observed and burnt, and occasionally it may be 
necessary to cut a portion of the stem clean out.” You say you have 
only watered the plants “ moderately ” and “ given plenty of ventila¬ 
tion ” It is possible, as you will perceive by the above citation, to 
admit air too freely under certain atmospheric conditions ; and your 
idea of “ moderate ” supplies may differ from ours. For instance, if 
you have given a little water daily or even thrice a week, keeping the 
