276 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 28, 1889, 
“ The Health of the Chairman,” proposed by Mr. Shirley Hibberd, 
was received with acclamation, rendering, as the proposer justly ob¬ 
served, any eulogy on his part quite unnecessary. 
Mr. Yeitch expressed his gratitude for the manner in which his name 
had been received, and mentioned that they must not omit to thank Mr. 
A. Barron for his good services in the matter. He knew that nothing could 
add to his credit, but the fact should be recorded. The thanks of the 
meeting were also due to Mr. Wills for the handsome Palms, and to Mr. 
H. Cannell for the Tuberous Begonia flowers employed in the decora¬ 
tion of the room and tables. 
An excellent programme of songs and music was arranged by Miss 
Mary Belval, and carried out by herself, assisted by Miss Harriett 
Boutall, Mr. Wilford T. Price, and Mr. John Bartlett, and at a com¬ 
paratively early hour in the evening the visitors separated well satisfied 
with a most enjoyable gathering. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Mid season Houses .—Vines from which the Grapes have 
been cleared should now be divested of their laterals down to the prin¬ 
cipal buds, that are to be retained for next year’s fruiting, doing so, 
however, without injury to the old leaves, as upon their preservation 
depends the maturation of the buds, which should be plump and well 
ripened. A free circulation of air is necessary, and in the case of young 
Vines, or where there is the least doubt about the thorough maturity of 
the wood, fire heat will be necessary. When the laterals have been 
removed clear the old mulching off the borders, and give a top-dressing 
•of turfy loam, with about a sixth of manure and a sprinkling of bone 
meal. If the roots have not penetrated the mulching remove the 
■soil down to them and supply fresh compost, but not covering them 
deeply ; 2 or 3 inches depth is quite sufficient. In the case of inside 
borders afford a moderate watering, and allow those outside to have the 
benefit of October rains, but instead of adding manure to the loam 
mulch the surface with 3 or 4 inches of fresh horse droppings, covering 
with dry litter or bracken by the end of October or eariy November In 
•the case of borders only partly made a breadth of 2 feet may be ad.led 
to the front, choosing a dry day for the operation, mulching with horse 
•droppings, and cover as before advised. 
Late Muscats .—If not thoroughly ripe continue rather sharp firing 
m the daytime with a free circulation of air, and enough at night to 
prevent the deposition of moisture on the berries. Continue this until 
the Grapes are finished, when a gradual reduction of temperature must 
take place, about 50 at night being necessary for Muscats after they are 
matured. Moisture must be kept down by a buoyant atmosphere, a 
pent up air with a sudden increase of temperature from sun being sure 
to induce moisture to condense on the berries, which will cause spot, 
and then the Grapes will speedily decay. The inside border should be 
covered with c ean dry straw or matting to prevent moisture rising. 
Late Grapes .—Make sure that the berries are well finished quite up 
co the shank before, ceasing the needful aid from fire heat. Alicante 
and Cady Downe s invariably finish better than Mrs. Pince, which, 
though the best flavoured of the late or thick-skinned varieties, is 
somewhat difficult to treat satisfactorily, the berries not finishing well 
up to the shank. Well grown it has the full flavour of Black Muscat. 
Gros Guillaume and Gros Colman require more time, as also do the 
white varieties, Syrian, Trebbiano, and Calabrian Raisin. Indeed all 
thick-skinned Grapes require a long time to mature after beinor 
apparently ripe, consequently a temperature of 55° should be assured"! 
with a rise of 5 to. 10° by day, and a circulation of air until the 
ooliage is giving indications of falling, when a temperature of 50° will 
be sufficient. The inside border must not be allowed to become too 
i recessary water in the early part of a fine day, and cover 
with a dry mulch as a safeguard against damp, and a repetition of 
t J? G ™ ter,n g’ P^ide borders will be quite damp enough, and 
ehould be covered with lights preferably, or some other means employed 
to throw off heavy rains. 
Late Hamburghs — These colour and finish when it is hopeless to do 
anything more with the thick-skinned varieties. They should have a 
•temperature of 60 to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° in the daytime, with 
a.circulation of air constantly, not allowing the borders to become dry, 
but giving a good watering if they are only partially advanced in 
ripening, and mulch with rather short dry material. Only restrict 
the laterals to prevent overcrowding, but after the Grapes are finished 
avoid further extension, yet not reducing the foliage much, as this 
assists Hambuivhs to keep their colour. 
Houses of Ripe Grapes .—Hamburghs and all thin-skinned varieties 
•of Grapes require, frequent examination for the removal of decayed 
berries. Damp being their greatest enemy it should be prevented as 
much as possible by fire heat in the daytime, accompanied by free 
ventilation, allowing the house to cool before night. 
J oung 1 ines .—Vines planted this spring or in early summer will 
need every encouragement in keeping the foliage clean and healthy, 
also keep the laterals away from the principal leaves in order that they 
have free exposure to light and air, especially those at the base of the 
canes, so that the buds to which the Vines are to be pruned may be 
thoroughly matured, and the wood well ripened. In order to insure 
the ripening of the wood maintain a genial warmth by day, and throw 
the house open at night. 
Figs.— Early Forced Trees in Pots .—Examine the roots, and as it 
is not advisable to increase the pot room, remove a few inches of soil 
from the base, cutting back the roots, and supply fresh fibrous loam, 
adding about a tenth of old mortar rubbish and a sprinkling of crushed 
bones, providing good drainage. Remove the loose surface soil and 
apply the above compost, adding a fourth of well decomposed manure. 
Afford a good watering, place the trees where they can have plenty of 
air with shelter from heavy rains and frost. 
Planted out Trees.— Keep the trees dry at the roots, but avoid ex¬ 
tremes, and a drier condition of the atmosphere will tend to promote the 
perfecting of the growth. As soon as the latest trees are cleared of 
their crops keep them down at the roots and the house well ventilated 
in favourable weater. Any root-pruning or partial lifting should be 
done when the leaves show indications of falling. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Dahlias .—Alrerdy we have had a rather severe frost, and in cold 
low-lying localities many of the Dahlia leaves have been blackened. 
Last year all were completely spoiled during the first week in October, 
and it is wise therefore to be prepared for eventualities. All the plants 
should be examined, those raised from seed being especially taken note 
of, any not worth keeping being duly singled out and marked. Those 
with names should be re-labelled if need be, and in any case the height of 
each variety ought to be marked on the label or entered in a book. It 
will be useless to attempt re-labelling after a severe frost has crippled 
the plants, and unless, therefore, it is done at once much confusion may 
be the result next spring. After the foliage and flowers have been 
blackened by frosts the plants should be cut down to within 8 inches 
of the tuberous roots, and be then lifted without damaging the latter. 
Store them stalk downwards in a dry open shed for a few days, or till 
they are thoroughly dried, after which they should be packed closely 
together on the floor or on a bench in a dry cool room or shed, covering 
all but the upper portion of the stems with fine dry soil. In very cool 
sheds it may be further necessary to cover with mats, sacking, or old 
carpets in severe weather, but, as a rule, no further trouble need be 
taken with them. 
Tuberous Begonias .—Much that has been advised concerning Dahlias 
also applies to these. They can be potted up fairly well from the open 
ground, and will flower for a few weeks longer in a cool house or con¬ 
servatory. Those left to face the weather ought not to be disturbed till 
the tops are injured or cut down by frosts, when the tubers should be 
lifted, a small quantity of soil being left on them, and after they are 
slightly dried all ought to be packed closely together in boxes of 
moderately dry soil. They can be kept in any cool place, taking care to 
protect them from severe frosts and drip. Seedlings still in the seed 
pan or the boxes in which they were pricked out are best left undis¬ 
turbed, being kept cool and dry. They will be very serviceable next 
season. 
Znial Pelargoniums .—These will withstand a moderately severe frost, 
but the choicer varieties, or any of which an insufficiency of cuttings 
have been taken, ought to be lifted before the points have been blackened 
by frost, or otherwise they will keep badly. All that are to be kept 
ought to be carefully forked out of the ground as soon as the state of 
the weather or the appearance of the beds warrants those in charge to 
break them up. It is useless to attempt preserving soil with the roots, 
but as few of the latter should be damaged as possible. First pinch off 
all the old or fully grown leaves, preserving the smallest at the points 
of the shoots only ; each plant may then be placed singly into as small 
pots as the roots can be crowded, or better still, from five to seven may 
be packed into 5-inch or rather larger sizes. In any case moderately 
moist soil should be used, and this must be well rammed about the roots. 
They will be more certain to recover somewhat and form a few roots if 
all are placed in gentle heat for about a month, sufficient water only 
being given to prevent shrivelling. During the winter they ought to be 
kept in a comparatively cool dry house, only enough water being given 
to just keep them alive. If they cannot be given the benefit of a little 
heat when first potted they must be placed in a cool dry house or pit 
and kept dry at the roots. Large quantities of Pelargoniums are fre¬ 
quently wintered in coach houses, spare bedrooms, and other fairly 
warm dry positions where only a moderate amount of light reaches the 
plants. In all such cases it is of the greatest importance that all the 
old leaves be picked off at potting time, and that the plants be kept 
quite dry at the roots. They must be kept in a dormant state. It is 
not yet too late to put in strong firm cuttings, but these must be placed 
under glass, preferably on shelves, at once, and not watered for about a 
week. 
Various .— Carpet beds may be preserved in an attractive state for 
several weeks longer if protected with blinds or mats every cold night. 
Any choice “ dot ” plants there may be used in these or sub-tropical 
beds, and which are plunged in pots, can be taken under cover of a house 
every night, or whenever there are signs of a frost, and returned in the 
morning. It is also advisable to ward off cold rains as much as possible. 
If stock plants of Coleus, Iresine, and Alternanthera are needed these 
must be potted before being badly crippled by frost. Not much of 
