October 3, I«P9, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
285 
'them as little as possible before removing them altogether. It 
will still be necessary to shade Phalasnopses from bright sunshine 
■for some time yet, and the blinds may be drawn down on the 
south side of the Odontoglossum house for a few hours when the 
sun is hot. If the structure in which they are grown runs north 
rnnd south it will be necessary to use the blinds on the west side 
■only. Full exposure from the present time will do the plants no 
harm, and the use of the blinds for a few hours is only advised on 
the ground that it prevents the temperature rising too high and 
ithe atmosphere of the house drying quickly through a high tem¬ 
perature and abundance of air. Overshading cannot be too 
strongly condemned, it results in long soft foliage that will scarcely 
■support itself. Good flowers and stout spikes cannot be expected 
from plants in this condition. The finest flowers, with good sub¬ 
stance and highly coloured, may be looked for from plants that 
have sturdy well ripened pseudo-bulbs and foliage that turns 
■nearly red by gradual and careful exposure to light. 
WINTER BLINDS. 
These are of the utmost value for covering Orchid houses 
•during the winter. They protect plants that may be arranged in 
•baskets or on blocks close to the glass, and assist wonderfully in 
maintaining a uniform temperature about the plants. The hot 
-dry heat that has to be maintained during very windy weather 
proves injurious to these plants, but is largely overcome by the use 
•of strong canvas blinds for covering the roof. However well houses 
miay be glazed or supplied with pipes, it is difficult in windy 
weather to maintain the requisite temperature without overheating, 
••and any system that will obviate this is worthy of consideration. 
CATTLEYA TRIANA1. 
In many gardens these cannot always be given the exact tem¬ 
perature in the various stages of growth that will suit them best. 
It often happens that they have to be grown slightly warmer than 
is good for them in order to suit other plants. Those that have 
-made their growth and produced their flower sheaths are very 
liable to start again into growth. This must be prevented, for 
growths that are made during the dull sunless days of winter are 
only puny in comparison with what they should be, and the next 
season’s growth is often considerably weaker than it would have 
been had winter growth been prevented. Where plants may have 
started into growth nothing is to be gained by starving them; on 
the contrary, the growths started may damp and the plants next 
spring will be compelled to force dormant eyes into growth, which 
varely make growths as strong as those from the leading p3eudo- 
3rulbs. The best course with those that have started is to move 
■them to the warmest structure, say the East Indian house, and 
thus assist them to make and complete their growth as early as 
possible. To prevent growth no harm is done to the plants by 
removing them to a cooler and more airy structure, fully exposing 
them to the sun. The temperature should not fall below 50°, and 
the plants must be carefully watered at their roots but not allowed 
to suffer by keeping them too dry. 
MILTONIA CANDIDA. 
This is a strong growing Orchid, and flowers with great freedom 
when grown at the coolest end of the Cattleya house and exposed 
to plenty of light during the latter stages of growth. It does well 
in a pot with fibry peat and a good layer of sphagnum moss on the 
-surface. It flowers so freely that pseudo-bulbs of moderate strength 
only will produce two spikes, and often three and four. It is useful, 
flowering as it does during September. The supply of flowers may 
be prolonged considerably where a number are grown by pushing 
some forward at the warmest end of the house, and retarding others 
'by growing them at the coolest. The form of this Orchid known 
as grandiflora is unquestionably the finer of the two, being of 
stronger growth with larger and brighter coloured flowers, but it is 
rare plant in comparison with the other. It flowers at the same 
time, and grows luxuriantly with the same treatment. 
HAXILLARIA PICTA. 
Where sweet Orchids are appreciated this is well worth growing. 
For some years we have had some in 5-inch to 7-inch pots for 
.placing, when in flower, in vases in dwelling rooms, and the flowers 
for cutting for filling small glasses. The plants bear confinement 
•in rooms without the slightest injury. Our plants make their 
-growth in the Cattleya house, and are then placed at the coolest 
•end of the Odontoglossum bouse and fully exposed to the sun. 
From this structure they are removed to heat as required. It is a 
free growing Orchid and increases rapidly. It grows well in peat, 
and only needs a complete rest after tbe completion of growth. 
The plants are also allowed to rest again after flowering. Their 
removal from a warm house to a cool one after flowering appears 
to do them no harm.— Orchid Grower. 
THE ORANGE-COLOURED SATYREUM. 
Terrestrial Orchids have with a few exceptions been some¬ 
what neglected by cultivatess, and it is satisfactory that some 
species are being again brought into notice. Upon several occasions 
during the past season plants or flower spikes have been exhibited 
at the Westminster meetings, and one for which a certificate was 
FIG. 30. —3ATYREDM AUEANTIACDM. 
granted—namely, S. carneum, has already been figured in this 
Journal. Another shown by Mr. T. S. Ware under the name of 
S. aurantiacum is now represented in fig. 36, and though some¬ 
what smaller and less imposing than the one previously noted, it 
is decidedly attractive. The leaves are broad, the flower spike 
