300 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 3, 1839. 
excrementitious matter of the scale insects. If the plants are infested 
with insects they must be destroyed, and then the flies will cease their 
attentions. 
Improving Old Orchard Trees ( J. J. C.). —As you say manure is 
scarce, you perhaps cannot do better than follow the practice described 
by Mr. J. Wright on page 237, which so well answered the desired 
purpose. It is also recommended by Mr. Tonks in our present issue. 
The best Peruvian guano is good for the purpose, and may be applied at 
the strength of an ounce to each gallon of water, after the earth has 
been previously moistened to a depth of 2 feet with pure water. For 
assisting its penetration holes may be driven down with an iron rod here 
and ithere, and these filled repeatedly with water, and subsequently 
liquid manure. Information relative to the analyses of soils can be 
obtained from the Secretary of the Royal Agricultural Society, Mr. 
Ernest Clarke, 12, Hanover Square, London. 
Vines Unsatisfactory ( Constant Reader). —The roots are pro¬ 
bably in an unfavourable medium, the border being wet, close, and 
cold, the roots at a considerable distance from the surface. We suggest 
that the surface soil be removed down to the roots, and some of it re¬ 
moved from amongst them, lifting and laying in fresh loam with an 
admixture of one-sixth old mortar rubbish, and a sprinkling of crushed 
bones. This should be done now whilst the leaves are on the Vines. 
The roots should not be covered deeper than 3 or 4 inches with fresh 
soil, and they should be mulched with leaves about 6 inches thick, with 
a little litter on top to prevent their blowing about. The drainage 
must be examined, and if defective rectified. The only alternative 
course is to allow more lateral extension of the Vines, which by en¬ 
couraging root action will, to a certain extent, counteract the tendency 
to defect of colour, and be serviceable against shanking. 
White Pinks for Forcing (2?. R. S.). —Some time ago a corre¬ 
spondent gave the following description of a method he had found 
successful : During the first week in October we look over our clumps, 
and choose such as are most compact and are then showing a number of 
small fibrous roots at the base of the season’s growth. Some plants 
appear to emit roots much more freely than others, hence our care in 
selecting. Cutting them off with 2 or 3 inches of old stem will ensure 
having a cluster of growths on each piece. According to their size 
place two, three, or four together in a 4 or 5-inch pot, which may form 
one bushy plant. Place them in a shady position or cool frame for a 
few weeks, when the small hair-like roots soon commence growing, and 
by the middle of February reach the pot sides. If the plants have had 
a cool airy position sheltered from heavy rains and frost they may be 
introduced as required into gentle moist heat, and will give a good supply 
of bloom from Easter onwards. Some other Pinks may be flowered 
under the same treatment, though not quite so early,. nor are they so 
valuable as the old white.” 
Euphorbia jacquinleeflora (Yl/. T.). —Plants that have been in 
cold frames up to the present time must be removed to a house or pit 
where the atmosphere can be drier at night, and the temperature at 
about 55°. If left in cold frames after this date the foliage is very 
liable to turn yellow, especially if too much water is given at the roots. 
If removed to a heated structure care must be taken that the plants are 
mot excited again into growth, or they will soon become tall and weak, 
and in the end flower but poorly. To avoid this no artificial heat will 
be needed for some weeks yet during the day, and only at night when 
fhe temperature is likely to fall too low. On all favourable occasions 
air should be liberally admitted during the day as well as at night. If 
the pots are full of roots stimulants may be given in a weak state every 
time water is applied, nothing being better for these plants than liquid 
made from cow manure and clear soot water. If the plants display any 
signs of starting into growth feeding must be discontinued for a time, at 
least until this tendency is checked. 
Constructing 1 Tomato House (J. Williams). — The height at the 
sides is of no consequence. It may be 18 inches, so as to admit of side 
ventilation, and all you want in that case is sufficient head room in the 
centre, about 8 feet 6 inches from the floor to the ridge being necessary. 
The pathway may be sunk, which will save having so sharp a pitch, 
which will of course, as regards length, be proportionate to the width of 
the house. An angle of about 45° would be suitable. A width of 9 feet 
to 10 feet 6 inches would be suitable, and the length could be corre¬ 
sponding to the requirements or means. Provision should be made at 
the top of the house for ample ventilation. There are other houses of 
an economical kind, in which the sides can be of wood to a height of 
about 4 feet C inches, with a board opening the whole length on both 
sides for ventilation, similar provision being made at the top of the 
house. The width of the house ought not to be less than 8 feet 6 inches, 
which will allow of a 2-feet 6-inch pathway and a 3-feet border on 
each side. It may be any greater width, and in respect of the pitch of 
the roof it may fall or have incline of 1 foot in every yard of width. 
Treatment of Narcissus In Pots (77. Ik.).—It will be quite 
safe to leave the bulbs plunged in the ground and covered with ashes, 
sand, or cocoanut-fibre refuse until the close of December or later. 
They will probably be advanced in growth, which will not be injured, as 
they are hardy. It is advisable, however, to afford protection in severe 
weather, nothing answering better than a single or double thickness of 
mats, kept clear from the growths by a framework of laths, removing 
the mats in mild weather. The night temperature is quite high enough, 
and the day also by artificial means, but keep them near to the glass, 
and afford air on all favourable occasions. In fine weather the growths 
may be sprinkled daily, but it is more important to maintain a genial 
condition of the atmosphere by damping cool, not heated, surfaces when 
they become dry. The water draining from pots in watering will be 
sufficient in most cases during severe weather, as a saturated atmosphere 
is not then desirable. Stand the plants outdoors as soon as the weather 
becomes sufficiently settled, as it will by the middle of May, and a 
sheltered situation being chosen they will mature much better than if 
they were kept under glass until the middle of June. If they can be 
hardened a little before being placed out it would be an advantage. 
Plunge them in ashes outdoors, and afford plenty of water and liquid 
manure occasionally when they are in full growth, and up to the foliage 
showing signs of becoming yellow for ripening, when it will suffice to 
keep the soil moist. Early potting is very desirable, the time you name 
(early August) being good, and plunged in ashes to the rim of the pots 
they could remain outdoors as long as you desire, only before frost it 
would be advisable to cover with 3 inches thickness of cocoanut-fibre 
refuse. Nothing is so injurious to Daffodils as keeping them out of the 
soil and not planting until late, or when those left to Nature would be 
well furnished with fresh roots. 
Increasing: Deutzias (S. T.). —If it is necessary to increase the 
stock of these for another year’s forcing, strong plants may be lifted 
from outside borders and potted at once. Many lift these plants and 
force them the same season, but this is a mistake, for they should be 
established in their pots for one year before forcing them into bloom. 
If placed at once in 6 to 8-inch pots, according to their size, they will 
become partially established before the foliage falls, and will make 
splendid plants for another year. They can stand outside until the 
approach of severe frost, when they should be pruned and the pots 
plunged in a cold frame. If allowed to start into growth and are 
encouraged in cold frames until June they will be ripened early, and in 
a fit state for forcing into bloom early in the season. It is a good plan 
to lift a few plants annually from the outside for potting, and then the 
stock of these plants can be kept in admirable condition. Plants that 
have been weakened by forcing may now be turned out of their pots 
and have their roots reduced by one-half and repotted in fresh soil. 
These if given cold frame treatment will thoroughly recruit themselves 
in a season, and be in the best condition for forcing. A portion of our 
stock is subjected to this treatment annually, and by this simple method 
the whole of the plants are kept in good condition. Plants that die or 
do not start freely into growth are replaced by new stock from the 
borders. The plants for this purpose are raised by striking cuttings in 
heat in spring, placing them singly in boxes 2 inches apart, and after¬ 
wards planting them out. 
Gas Lime for Ground to be Cropped with Potatoes 
(./. E. P.). —We use gas lime on ground intended for Potatoes alike as 
a preventive of attack by vermin and fungi. The gas lime is from our 
own works, the gas being manufactured for lighting the mansion, 
stables, &c., driving engine for pumping, &c., consequently we have gas 
lime always available. The best time to apply it is to ground to be 
cropped with Potatoes in October or November before the ground is dug 
or manured, and at the rate of half a bushel per rod (30J square yards). 
The gas lime is disposed as evenly as possible on the ground, and either 
lightly hoed or pointed in with a fork. At that time vermin and 
fungoid germs are on or near the surface, and more readily available 
for attack, and any injurious effect the gas lime may have passes off 
by exposure to the atmosphere ; in fact, passes quickly into the gypsum 
state, in which it is not a despicable manure. After lying a month or 
so the ground is manured if necessary, the gas lime being buried in the 
work of forking or digging. In spring, before the Potatoes are planted, 
we occasionally use the gas lime again, particularly for ground that has 
not previously or recently been dressed with it, and at the same rate as 
in the autumn, spreading it evenly on the surface, and leaving it there 
for at least a month before “ setting ” the Potatoes. This, however, is 
only practised when the ground is foul with slugs, &c., as the full appli¬ 
cation of gas lime—viz., 1 bushel per rod, should only be had recourse 
to when the soil as shown by the attacks on the crops is extremely foul. 
As to the beneficial effects of dressing with gas lime as a preventive 
of scab, we can only state that on some ground which three years ago 
gave scabbed crops, the Potatoes are this year free, the land having 
been consecutively cropped with Potatoes, which in this particular 
instance is a necessity. It is not, however, sound practice to follow 
Potatoes on ground that produce scabbed tubers, nor to use “seed” tubers 
that are scabbed or taken from an infected crop. Necessity, however, 
precludes choice, and it is not certain that the ground is at fault, as 
tubers show no trace of scab at lifting, but during the winter it deve- 
lopes, and they become much deteriorated in value, the quality being 
invariably good. Scabbing does not always arise from the attacks of a 
fuugus, as in some instances there is no trace of the action of fungi, 
and in such cases may arise from corrosive substances in the soil. 
Names of Plants. —We only undertake to name species of plants 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss, soft green grass or leaves form the best packing, dry 
wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once, 
and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligatures, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp. 
(J.M.). —l,Solidago virga-aurea ; 2, Begonia semperflorens ; 4, Euonymus 
japonicus variegatus ; 5, Pachyphyton bracteosum. The others were 
insufficient for recognition. ( A. T. M.). —Send a better specimen with 
flowers. (IF. R.). —1, Aphelandra cristata ; 2, A. aurantiaca. 
