320 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 10, 1880. 
41 The seasons vary very much,” answered our guide, “ but I think that 
I have sent up nearly a thousand bushels during my best seasons.” The 
Windsor, an August Pear, is here grown to perfection. At the time of 
■our visit 6ome of the best specimens were being reserved for exhibition 
purposes. One or two magnificent clusters caught the eye. There they 
were, carefully surrounded by a net to protect them from the wind, 
awaiting the moment when they would be gathered in order to be sent 
to the metropolis. Beurrd Clairgeau, a handsome deep red Pear, shaded 
to an olive green, and a heavy cropper, is largely grown. 
The next variety claiming notice is Pitmaston Duchess, and it is in 
the cultivation of this superb fruit that Mr. Butler excels. It is one of 
the best of our dessert Pear trees, and is grown on pyramid and bush 
trees, the last named reaching a height of from 6 feet to 7 feet. The 
Pitmaston is a rich mellow Pear of a deep yellow tinge when ripe, the 
season for which is October and November. It commands a good price 
in the market, and large quantities are sent from this garden to London, 
where they realise an average price of 4s. a dozen. The pyramids reach 
a greater height than the bush trees. While speaking of the Pitmaston 
Duchess, we found that for three years running Mr. Butler carried oil 
the first prize offered for the six best specimens of Pitmaston Duchess 
at the Royal Horticultural Society’s Show at South Kensington. These 
■exhibitions have now ceased to be held. The specimens shown averaged 
22 ozs. apiece. For three years in succession he has taken the first prize 
of £10 at the Crystal Palace hardy fruit Show in October for the best 
■collection of Pears, staging nearly 100 varieties. “ And,” said our 
friend, with a merry twinkle in his eye, I am going to try to win it 
this year.” Madame Treyve is an immense cropper, and this could be 
well believed, for the trees of this variety were literally like so many 
ropes of Pears awaiting the hands of the gatherer. This is a Pear of 
fine flavour from September to October. Williams’ Bon Chretien is 
grown to a large size, and as sound as a bell. Doyenne Boussoch, 
Marshal de Cour, Doyennd du Comice, Beurre Diel, Beurrh Hardy, 
Brockworth Park, Beurrt; Bachelier, Durondeau, General TodtlebeD, 
Beurre de l'Assomption, Bergamotte d’Esperen, Josephine de Malines, 
iBeurrh Bose, Princess, and hosts of other Pears are also in cultivation. 
As may be imagined, with such a choice, a large and varied collection 
Tor exhibition is easily obtainable. 
Apples are not overlooked either. Many trees were well covered 
•with choice fruit, among the leading varieties being Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, Peasgood’s Nonesuch, Cox’s Pomona, Lord Suffield, Lord 
Grosvenor (a recent introduction, and similar to Lord Suffield, an Apple 
that will be better known in the future), The Queen, Worcester Pear- 
main, Stirling Castle, Lane’s Prince Albert, Ecklinville Seedling, Tower 
of Glamis, and Wellington. These receive careful attention at the 
Orchard Lane Nursery, and, it is almost invidious to add, are made to 
.produce all that it is possible for a tree to bear.—( From the East Kent 
Gazette.') 
WORK.mi™ WEEK.. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Early Forced Vines in Pots. —To have ripe Grapes in 
March or early April the Vines should not be started later than the 
early part of November. If bottom heat can be given to start them 
they will break well. Provided there is a bed of about 3 feet depth and 
4 feet width the pots may be raised upon bricks in pillar fashion, so 
that their rims are slightly higher than the pit edge, and so that the 
pots will be in the centre of the bed. Leaves being placed in to fill the 
pit a gentle warmth will be afforded, and the Vine roots will pass into 
the leaves, deriving beneficial support. The temperature at the roots 
ought not to exceed 75°, and in the atmosphere 50° to 55° by artificial 
means, until the buds swell, then gradually increase it to 60° or 65° 
when they are breaking. The canes should be depressed to a horizontal 
•position to secure their breaking regularly. Damp the house and canes 
in the morning and afternoon. 
Early Forced Planted-out Vines. —Those to be forced to afford ripe 
Grapes in April should be started by the middle of November. It is not 
advisable to start permanently planted Vines so early where there is 
convenience for growing some in pots, as it is a great strain upon the 
plants to make their growth at the dullest period of the year and to rest 
at the hottest. The Vines, it is presumed, were pruned about the 
middle of September and the house kept cool and dry. Protect the out¬ 
side borders from autumn rains by covering them before the ground is 
•chilled. A good covering of dry leaves, with a little litter to prevent 
them blowing about, is effective, and if a tarpaulin is employed 
■over all nothing further need be done. Where fermenting materials are 
available they are a great aid in forcing operations, and especially so for 
placing inside the house to maintain a genial condition of the atmo¬ 
sphere without recourse to so much fire heat or sprinklings from the 
syringe. The materials need not be used until the house is Closed, but 
they must be thrown into a heap a week or ten days previously, turned 
and moistened if necessary. Three parts of Oak or Beech leaves to one 
•of stable litter will give a more suitable warmth and ammonia vapour 
than all dung. Mix the leaves well together when thrown into the 
heap, damping them if dry, turning them when they are getting warm, 
again damping if necessary, and when well warmed through they are fit 
for placing in the house. 
Late Grapes. —If the Vines were hastened in spring by the aid of 
fire heat these will be thoroughly ripened, and it is much preferable 
maintaining a forcing temperature after October comes in to secure the 
ripening of the fruit. In the latter case the temperature must not be 
less than 70° to 75° by day and 65° at night, falling 5° through the 
night, allowing an advance to 80° or 85° from sun heat, continuing this 
until the Grapes are ripe, at least until the wood is brown and hard. 
The fruit being thoroughly ripe, in which state only can the Grapes be 
expected to winter satisfactorily, and the wood be thoroughly matured, 
all spray or laterals may be removed down to the main buds, ventilating 
freely on all favourable occasions. Fire heat will then only be neces¬ 
sary to prevent the temperature falling below 50°. To prevent dust 
settling upon the berries raking or sweeping must not be practised. 
Mats or clean dry straw laid over the inside borders will to some extent 
prevent evaporation, assist in keeping the atmosphere dry, and prevent 
the soil cracking. The outside borders must be covered if the fruit is to 
keep satisfactorily. Glass lights are best, wooden shutters good, and 
tarpaulin over dry bracken or straw answers well. A thick thatch of 
straw or bracken is very serviceable. 
Young Vines. —Young Vines generally have a tendency to continue 
growing to a late period, which may be checked by stopping the shoots 
moderately, and facilitate the ripening of the wood by a high and dry 
atmosphere— i.e., a temperature of 70° to 75° by artificial means, and 80° 
to 85° with sun heat by day, shutting off the heat and keeping the 
ventilators open by night. 
Melons. —Be careful in the application of water, but the latest 
plants with fruit swelling must not be allowed to become dry at the 
roots. Keep up moderate moisture by damping every morning and at 
closing time, earthing the plants as required. Remove all superfluous 
growths as they appear, and maintain a temperature of 65° to 70° at 
night, 70° to 75° by day, up to 85° or 90° with sun heat. Keep the 
bottom heat at about 80°. Fruit ripening will be the better for a little 
extra fire heat and ventilation constantly ; a dry state at the roots, but 
not so dry as to cause the leaves to flag, accelerates the ripening process. 
In dung-heated pits and frames no water will be required after this. 
Keep the frames well lined, admitting a little air constantly, which 
with the fruit raised well above the surface of the bed will do much to 
impart flavour. Any fruit it is wished to keep for a time must be cut 
when changing with a good portion of stem, and be kept in a dry airy 
room, or if wanted ripe at once they may be placed in a warm airy 
house in the full sun, and they ripen better than in frames or pits 
devoid of artificial heat. 
Cherries. —If it is intended to plant any trees it should be seen to 
as soon as the leaves have fallen, or if the trees are at hand those 
trained to walls for four, or five, or six years are best, and if repeatedly 
lifted they may be planted as soon as the leaves give indications of 
falling. The Cherry, like all stone fruits, thrives best in a calcareous 
soil, turfy loam inclined to be strong rather than light, with a tenth of 
old mortar rubbish and a sixth of wood scrapings thoroughly incor¬ 
porated answering well, the border being about 24 inches deep, over 
9 inches to a foot of drainage, secured with a layer of old mortar 
rubbish, and about 6 feet wide, which is ample for trees grown under 
glass. Black Tartarian and May Duke are the best varieties, but Early 
Rivers is a welcome addition, and especially valuable for early dishes. 
The yellow fleshed varieties form an acceptable addition to the dessert 
when fresh fruit is not plentiful. Early Jaboulay, Elton, and Governor 
Wood are first-rate ; the lights having been removed they need not be 
replaced for a month or six weeks, the old surface soil being removed 
without injury to the roots and fresh compost supplied, that above 
named answering with the addition of a fourth of manure. 
Trees in pots to be shifted into a larger size should be attended to at 
once, and those not to be so treated should be turned out of the pots. 
Remove a few pinches of soil from the base, cut the roots back and 
supply fresh loam, adding about a tenth of old mortar rubbish and a 
sprinkling of half-inch bones with good drainage. Remove the surface 
soil, supplying the above compost, adding a fourth of decayed manure. 
Whether for trees planted out or in pots the soil should be made firm. 
Afford a good watering, and place the trees where they can have plenty 
of air. If outdoors they may be plunged over the rim of the pots. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Propagating Shrubby Calceolarias. — Where large numbers of 
bedding plants are required these Calceolarias ought to be extensively 
grown, and they are especially serviceable in places where the con¬ 
venience for wintering tender plants is of a limited character. All they 
require is to be kept cool and protected from severe frosts, and they need 
never be placed in pots or in a heated house at any time. Cuttings 
ought to be inserted now or before they are damaged by severe frosts. 
The ordinary garden frames are best for striking and wintering the 
plants in. These should be placed in a convenient well drained position, 
raised from the ground with the aid of bricks at each corner, inside being 
placed a firm layer of half-decayed heating material, nothing being 
better than leaves and stable manure in equal parts, bringing up the 
6 inches of fine loamy soil near to the glass. Face the latter with sharp 
sand or road grit, and make all firm and level. Select firm short-jointed 
flowerless tops of young shoots. Cut these to the third or fourth joint, 
trimming off the lower pair of leaves only, and dibble them in firmly 
