October 10, 1869 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
321 
about. 3 inches apart each way, and water through a moderately fine- 
rose pot. Put on the lights and shade from bright sunshine. When 
the cuttings are recovered somewhat a little air may be admitted, 
especially during warm nights ; the shading also being gradually with¬ 
held. If the cuttings are unduly coddled they will grow and become 
weakly, whereas the aim should be to keep them dwarf and sturdy. 
Violas, Panties, and Gazanias .—The first named are a beautiful and 
serviceable class of bedding plants. Pansies are favourites everywhere ; 
and the old-fashioned Gazania splendens is also effectively used in some 
summer bedding arrangements. All strike as readily and thrive under 
much the same treatment as that above recommended for Calceolarias. 
Young flowerless shoots springing from the centre of the plants of 
Violas and Pansies are the best for striking, but the older tops answer 
nearly as well. These may be taken 2 inches or rather more in length, 
trimmed to a joint, and dibbled in clear of each other all over the bed. 
Every cutting will usually strike root and make stocky little plants for 
transplanting to more roomy quarters next spring. The cuttings of 
Gazanias should be somewhat longer, and will require rather more pro¬ 
tection during the winter. 
Late Propagated Pelargoniums .—Where no very severe frosts have 
been experienced the Zonal Pelargoniums are unusually gay for the 
time of year. This is partly the result of the wood being short-jointed 
and firm, and as this is also the best for propagating purposes there is no 
reason why more cuttings should not be inserted if need be. In many 
places it is hardly possible to winter too many of these still popular 
summer bedding plants, and in any case it is always wise to have more 
cuttings than needed, a considerable number not unfrequently being 
lost during the winter. Only the firmest shoots ought to be made into 
cuttings, these being allowed to lie in the sunshine or light for several 
hours in order that much superfluous or dangerous sap may be evapo¬ 
rated. Place them rather thickly in small pots, set on shelves in cool 
houses near the glass, and give only sufficient water to prevent much 
shrivelling. 
Preparing Sites for Bulbs .—Many of the commoner kinds and 
varieties will usually flower well for one season at any rate if planted in 
ground not specially prepared for them in any way. The soil in the 
flower beds is quite good enough for the ordinary bedding kinds, in¬ 
cluding Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, Snowdrops, Crocuses, and Scillas, 
the greater portion of which are lifted prior to filling the beds with 
their summer occupants, and are seldom of much service afterwards. 
The choicer Daffodils, Narcissi, Tulips, Anemones, Grape and Feather 
Hyacinths, Triteleias, Leucojums, Irises, Jonquils, Snowdrops, Aconites, 
and Crocuses generally succeed, however, much the best when planted in 
well prepared sites, not being disturbed for five years or more. All de¬ 
light in well manured, deeply dug or trenched ground, with abundance 
of fresh turfy compost disposed immediately about the bubs. They will 
pay well for this treatment, and instead of flowering well the first 
season only will continue till eventually large clumps will be available 
for dividing and transplanting. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Calceolarias .—To have plants that are rarely attacked by aphides, 
they must be repotted from time to time, as they need more root-room. 
If the plants are once neglected in this respect they soon become a 
prey to these pests. Now that frame room is more abundant we are 
placing all our largest plants into 6-inch pots, and later plants are being 
attended to in this respect according to the size they need. These 
plants will do well in cold frames for some time. They grow rapidly at 
this season when stood on a cool moist base. On no account remove 
them to greenhouses and arrange them on shelves or open lattice 
staging, as such positions are too dry. 
Cinerarias .—These plants suffer from damp in cold frames in many 
localities if crowded thickly together. There is no difficulty in keeping 
them in these positions for at least another two months if they are 
arranged thinly so that plenty of air can play about the foliage. Damp¬ 
ing occurs when their leaves are allowed to hang wet for several days 
in succession. The earliest plants producing their flower stems may 
have weak stimulants every time water is needed. Nothing is better 
for them than soot water in a clear state. The plants needed for spring 
flowering are now being placed into 5 and G-inch pots, and later ones 
into 4-inch pots. 
Primulas .—Plenty of the early plants are now showing flower, and 
will soon be suitable for decoration if placed indoors where the tempe¬ 
rature does not fall below 45° to 50°. A few of these are useful after 
the third week of this month for associating with other plants in the 
conservatory, or even for room decoration. Repot all late plants that 
need it and are to be retained for spring flowering. Admit air liberally 
during fine days. These plants will be safe in cold frames until the end 
of the month. They will do afterwards on shelves, or in almost any 
position, provided they are kept cool. All late flowering plants should 
be grown as sturdily as possible, and then they will produce strong 
flower stems in profusion in spring. Keep double varieties in a house 
where the atmosphere is moderately dry and the temperature not allowed 
to fall below 50°. Water these with care ; if first kept wet and then 
dry they are almost certain to decay at the “ collar.” Keep the soil as 
near an intermediate state of moisture as possible. 
Abutilons .—If these are to continue growing and flowering through¬ 
out the autumn they must have a night temperature of 50° to 55°, with a 
day temperature 10° higher. When kept in a cool airy structure the 
flower buds that form soon turn yellow and fall. The flowers open 
by the aid of a little warmth, and will continue as long as the plants 
are growing slowly. 
Cyclamens .—If a few plants are wanted in flower place them on a 
shelf near to the glass where the night temperature ranges from 50° to 
55", and their flowers will soon appear above the foliage. Do not hurry 
them or keep them in a close confined atmosphere, or the foliage as well 
as the flowers will be drawn up weakly. Those not required in flower 
will do for the present in cool houses. Give the plants wtak liquid 
manure occasionally, and keep them near to the glass. If seed has not 
been sown for next year’s supply do so at once. The seeds germinate 
quickly in a temperature of 60° to 65°, and they should be covered 
lightly with fine soil, with a square of glass over the pan or pot. 
After gradua'ly expose the seedlings to light and a cooler temperature. 
Prick them out singly 1 inch apart into shallow pans or boxes. Do not 
allow them to become dry, and gradually harden them to an inter¬ 
mediate temperature. 
Tea Roses .—If allowed to break into growth under cool treatment 
these may now have a position where careful ventilation can be provided, 
with a temperature that will not fall below 55°. Where flowers 
are wanted by Christmas no time should be lost in pruning the plants. 
Subject them to the coolest treatment, so that they will enjoy complete 
rest for a week or two before starting them again. Free the house of 
aphides before pruning, for they will prove a source of trouble when 
the foliage is tender. For flowering at Christmas Safrano and Isabella 
Sprunt are decidedly the two best. They grow freely and flower 
profusely. 
Hybrid Perpetuals .—Where it is necessary to increase the stock of 
these pot some at once. If done while the foliage is fresh and plunged 
outside, the pots will be partially filled with roots before the approach 
of frost. 
Eucharis amazonica .—If the supply of blooms from these is required 
over a long period during the autumn and winter,those that have completed 
their growth may be removed to cooler quarters for a few weeks to rest. 
Do not remove too many plants at one time ; select a few of the most 
promising, and a few more at intervals of ten days or a fortnight accord¬ 
ing to the time they complete their growth. The rest they enjoy in- 
cool quarters can either be of short or long duration according to cir¬ 
cumstances. Those that have first flowered must be pushed into growth, 
and with good management should flower again in January. With 
care and judgment in pushing plants forward and retarding others there- 
is no difficulty in having Eucharises during the whole of the year, 
though intervals of a week or fortnight may elapse without blooms even 
under the best of management, as it is very difficult to time the plants to 
a few days. Before the plants are removed to cooler quarters allow 
them to become somewhat drier at their roots, and keep them in this 
condition until they are returned to the stove. At the same time they 
must not be allowed to flag or suffer by an insufficient supply of water 
at their roots. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
YOUNG QUEENS. 
Within the past ten days numerous inquiries have come to 
hand as to whether I could supply a fertile queen or queens, as one 
or more of their stocks were either queenless or had virgin queens 
only. Through the kindness of acquaintances and the surplus from 
my own stock I have been able to supply a few, but many are still 
unserved. The dealers are not exhausted, and if those in want of 
such apply to them they will be supplied at a moderate rate. 
Although the current year has not been so disastrous as 1878 was 
many queens are this year unfertilised, especially those that super¬ 
seded the queen regnant late in July and August. The want of 
sunshine during these months, but not a high temperature, was con¬ 
ducive to this. It is a good plan at this season for bee-keepers to- 
preserve a few nuclei to replace defective queens either now or 
whenever drone brood appears out or inside the hive. I have pre¬ 
served queens for weeks by caging and placing them between the 
combs amongst the bees. There is no safer plan than this, and the 
bee-keeper will be studying his own interest if, now they are cheap, 
he provides himself with a few queens, preserving them in the 
manner stated above. 
INTRODUCING QUEENS. 
It is a considerable time since I asked for information regarding 
the thirty minutes’ starving process, what is new, or what is 
gained by the “ Simmins ” method of direct introduction, but the 
desired information has been withheld. My own opinion is, There 
is nothing new, nor is there anything gained by the method unless 
it be the thirty minutes’ starving process. It is several years since 
I advised in these pages to keep the queen from eating other honey, 
than that belonging to the hive to which she was to be introduced. 
