350 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Oc'cber 24, 188R 
the roots and picking it from amongst them, so as to displace as 
much as possible. In the case of the border being unsatisfactory 
and the roots few and deep, it will be necessary to remove all the 
old soil and renew the whole border, commencing with the drainage, 
which should be a clear 9 inches to 1 foot thick, having a layer of 
fine material at the top, nothing answering better than old mortar 
rubbish, a 3-inch thickness over 9 inches of brickbats, &c. The 
drainage must have a tile drain under it to carry off the superfluous 
water. Two feet depth of soil is ample, and the roots should be 
laid out evenly in the top foot, encouraging those from the collar 
by laying any that proceed therefrom just beneath the surface. 
The whole should be made firm and the compost moderately dry. 
If the roots are inside and outside, one part may be done one year 
and the other the next without any danger of loss of crop, care 
being taken to preserve all the roots possible, and to keep them 
from the drying influences of the atmosphere whilst the work is in 
progress. Mulch the surface with a little short material, preferably 
fresh horse droppings, and cover outside borders with a good 
thickness of leaves or other protective material. As regards soil 
good turfy loam is best, but any ameliorated soil will grow good 
Grapes. Preference should be given to medium textured soil, that 
over lying clay being better than over lying sand. The most 
suitable is a rather strong loam over-lying the limestone formation 
and interspersed with cretaceous matter and flints.—G. A. 
PREPARING FOR BULB PLANTING. 
Now that the frost has spoiled the summer arrangements in the 
flower garden it is time to prepare for filling the beds with bulbs 
for spring effect. Anyone employed in this work will find it neces¬ 
sary to make the best use of all fine weather until the work is 
completed, as the bulbs are losing valuable time whilst remaining 
in the shed after October has commenced. Presuming that all 
arrangements have been made beforehand, and sufficient bulbs 
procured to fill the beds allotted to them, let the latter have a 
dressing of soot, or lime if procurable, to assist the former to battle 
against any disease, or fungus, that is always ready to attack the 
more tender or delicate kinds. If a heavy dressing of fresh soil or 
well decomposed manure can be dug in, so much the better, as by 
using the beds each year for bulbs the soil naturally gets worn out, 
and a change becomes absolutely necessary. It is a good plan to 
have a quantity of compost prepared, say six weeks or two months 
beforehand, so that it is in readiness whenever required. If large 
numbers of beds are to be planted select some fresh loam, or what 
is more suitable, edgings of walks that have thoroughly decayed, 
say about four or five cartloads ; add to this about two loads of 
leaf soil and an equal quantity of cow manure and coarse sand, 
turning it two or three times to thoroughly mix it, allowing it to 
remain in the heap till required. Spread this on the beds and let 
them be deeply dug, which is essential for successful cultivation. 
This treatment applies to Hyacinths and Tulips more especi- 
ally, and some strong growing Narcissi also, as they are gross 
feeders, but many of the Narcissi do much better without manure. 
N. maximus is one of these and often fails to flower when manure 
is used, although one can hardly wish for a finer variety when 
grown in fresh sandy soil. 
When the beds are in readiness commence with the Narcissi 
first, if possible, as they are the most impatient to start into growth. 
If one variety only is used in a bed it is much the better plan to 
line the beds out before commencing planting, placing the bulbs 
evenly on the surface, not too thinly, as much of the beauty of the 
bloom is lost when the bulbs are too sparingly used. Hyacinths and 
Tulips should be treated in the same way, but beds of these will 
be greatly improved if a broad band of Crocuses is planted round 
each. The Crocuses are quite over in spring before the other 
bulbs are in flower, but the foliage round the edge gives a decided 
finish to the bed. It is hardly necessary to give the names of 
varieties most suitable to grow, as the list of each is a long one, 
and no difficulty will arise in making a good selection. To those 
about to replant Liliums I would say, Lose no time, as the bulbs 
have already commenced growing, and if planting is delayed they 
will experience a check from which it takes them some time to 
recover.—F. G. 
ROOT-PRUNING FRUIT TREES. 
This is an operation that now demands attention, as at this 
period of the year roots of most trees are active, and if the work is 
done early and carefully there is a chance of the trees re-establish¬ 
ing themselves before winter sets in, and are consequently better 
fitted to make good their loss of roots they are deprived of before 
another year.. Root-pruning acts like magic sometimes iu bringing 
barren trees into a bearing state, especially when unfruitfulness 
is brought about by undue luxuriance. When trees are making: 
very strong shoots they are found on examination to be making 
roots in proportion, and so long as this goes on fruit prospects are- 
very much jeopardised. It is the small fibrous roots which com¬ 
mand the formation of fruit spurs, and in some soils there is- 
difficulty in maintaining a fruitful condition. In gardens where- 
the surface is light and open, with a clayey subsoil-, there is great 
tendency for the roots to go deep in search of moisture, especially 
if the aspect is at all open and windy. With soils of this descrip¬ 
tion mulching is of considerable value, of no matter what kind so¬ 
lo ng as it creates and maintains moisture. 
Old and exhausted trees may be invigorated by digging a trench- 
down as deep as roots are found, fresh soil being added, with which 
is incorporated some mortar refuse or lime and bones. It is not- 
advisable to add any animal manure, as this is better applied in a 
liquid state, but any accumulation of burnt or decayed garden- 
refuse may be given with advantage in moderate quantities if well 
mixed with the soil. All roots that are severed should be cut 
smooth with a sharp knife, as affording assistance in encouraging 
a quick and perfect callus from which fibry roots eventually issue. 
With large trees root-pruning should not be completed the first 
year, but a half circle, as it were, dug round at one time, the re¬ 
maining half left until another subsequent period. It is important 
that when the work is in hand the ball of roots should be under¬ 
mined quite up to the trunk or main stem, as large tap roots- 
frequently take a direct downward course, and if these are not 
severed the work done will not have the desired effect. The space 
beneath the tree requires that the soil should be well trodden in,, 
otherwise there is danger of its shrinking, which if the tree was- 
unable to sink with it would leave a cavity and seriously interfere- 
with root formation. Should the soil be at all dry it must, as the 
filling in proceeds, be well watered, this serving to fill up crevices-- 
more effectually and quickly than when it is allowed to sink. 
naturally. Moreover, it tends to sustain the tree under its- 
surgical treatment. It is a very good plan when trees are operated> 
on at the roots that the necessary prunir.g be done at the same 
time, so that the demands on the roots may be correspondingly 
decreased, and there is also less surface open to the wind forces.—- 
W. S., Frome. 
Plants in the East Indian and Mexican houses must be watered! 
with considerable care. Be careful not to keep them too wet at- 
their roots, and on the other hand do not allow them to become so 
dry that their stems and foliage will shrivel. Considerable 
judgment is needed in this matter during the autumn and winter 
months. Plants that have completed their growth and have fleshy 
pseudo-bulbs need only sufficient water to keep their roots healthy 
and the leaves and stems plump. Cypripediums, Yandas, Aerides,. 
Saccolabiums, and others suffer considerably if they are kept too- 
dry ; the material about their loots should not he destitute of 
moisture. When water is used it should be of the same tempera¬ 
ture as the house or a few degrees warmer. Cold water when- 
applied to the plants, especially when allowed to fall upon* 
their foliage, frequently results in the latter “ spotting,” which 
destroys their appearance for several years. Use the syringe 
judiciously. On fine mornings no harm will follow slight- 
syringings provided air can be admitted and the water that lodges- 
about the plants is evaporated before it is necessary to close the 
ventilators. Damping the paths, stages, and amongst the pots may 
still be practised. It is a mistake to discontinue syringing and: 
maintain about the plants a dry burning atmosphere. This treat¬ 
ment soon results in the plants being destroyed by yellow thrips. 
PEAIUS GRANDIFOLIUS. 
If these plants have been well looked after they will have grown- 
strongly and have clean healthy foliage. These plants are often 
destroyed by overwatering early in the season, and the foliage re¬ 
quires trimming to render them presentable at the present time. 
The atmosphere in which the plants are grown should not be kept 
too moist or the syringe used injudiciously, or the foliage at this- 
season will soon become spotted. Supply water carefully, but 
never allow the soil about their roots to approach dryness. Keep 
the plants in a temperature of 60° to G5°, and give them weak 
