38G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
t October 81, 1889. 
and repeat it at least twice. In pruning early-forced trees it is not 
desirable to cut away much wood, nor indeed any kind of trees at the 
winter pruning, confining it to removing any useless parts that have 
escaped the knife at thinning after the fruit was gathered, and any long 
nnripened shoots may be cut back to a triple bud, making sure that the 
centre one is a wood bud, or to a wood bud on well ripened wood. 
Shoots, however, that are well ripened need not be shortened under any 
circumstances, except to originate growths for furnishing. Those of 
from 8 to 12 inches length should not be shortened at all, as they 
have wood buds at the base and one at the extremity, the others being 
fruit buds. It is, however, a great mistake to retain much wood, which 
weakens the trees in flowering, and there is not space to train in the 
young growths without crowding. In other respects treat the trees, 
house, and borders as advised for the early house. 
Third Succession House .—The trees are shedding their leaves and the 
buds are not too highly developed. We have a decided objection to 
large bloom buds on Peach and Nectarine trees, as those are the kinds 
that usually fall, if any do, and we think over-development as well as 
dryness at the roots with extreme fluctuations of temperature and 
hygrometrical conditions are the chief causes of the buds being cast. 
The roof lights have not been removed, as the wood is rather stronger 
than usual ; such requires more time to mature than weakly or even the 
moderately vigorous—the best sort to have. The house having been 
kept rather close by day and thrown open at night, which has browned 
or hardened the wood, and the roots being kept moist, the buds are as 
plump as desirable, so that the roof lights will come off forthwith. 
Where the roof lights are not moveable care must be taken to prevent 
the soil becoming dry, and air must be admitted to the fullest extent, 
securing as complete rest as possible. Let no opportunity pass of push¬ 
ing forward the pruning, dressing the trees, and having all needful work 
done. 
Later Houses .—These may contain midseason or late sorts, in each 
case having fire heat to assist in spring at setting and in the early stages 
of growth, or in unfavourable weather during growth. The trees are 
beginning to cast their leaves, and where the roof lights are moveable, 
which ours are in all instances, it is advisable to remove them as soon as 
the foliage is down ; but where green leaves hang long it is an indica¬ 
tion of unripe wood, and the roof lights must not then be removed for 
some time longer, the trees being lifted and root-pruned. If this is per¬ 
formed carefully and judiciously it will not prejudice next year’s crop, 
but it must be done whilst the foliage is still upon the trees, keeping 
the house rather close, the trees syringed, and the house shaded if the 
■weather be bright. Under ordinary circumstances as to weather those 
precautions are not necessary. It is only when the trees are gross and 
the wood unripe that the particularly careful treatment is necessary. 
In the case of young trees it will suffice to take out a trench one-third 
the distance from the stem the trees cover the trellis and down, so as to 
cut off all roots to the drainage, leaving the trench open for a fortnight, 
not allowing the soil in the radius to become so dry as to distress the 
foliage to a severe degree of flagging, but not giving any so long as the 
leaves maintain their persistence, and then the trench may be filled 
firmly. This will check the tendency to a late growth and ripen the 
wood and buds. 
Unheated Houses .—Peaches and Nectarines succeed well enough in 
«ome localities against walls under careful and judicious treatment, and 
in the majority they are more certainly grown under glass, and in some 
places attempting to grow Peaches and Nectarines out of doors, even in 
the most favourable aspect, is a waste of space, as such would be highly 
profitable put to more suitable purpose, as for instance for the choicer 
Pears and Plums. To afford a succession of Peaches and Nectarines 
over a lengthened period unhcated houses are peculiarly appropriate, 
for which purpose have Alexander, *Hale’s Early, Dr. Hogg, *Stirling 
Castle, Alexandra Noblesse, Bellegarde, *Barrington, Walburton Admir¬ 
able, and *Sea Eagle. If'more are wanted choose Condor, Crimson Galande. 
Crosse Mignonne or Belle Beauce, Noblesse, Royal George, Yiolette 
Hative, and Princess of Wales. Prince of Wales under glass does first 
rate ; very large, highly coloured, and good in quality—indeed, one of 
the finest, but its constitution is not suitable for outside. Of Nectarines 
obtain *Lord Napier, Hardwicke Seedling, Rivers’ Orange, Milton, *Pine 
Apple, Newton, Spencer, and *Victoria. Those only requiring a few 
sorts may select such as are marked with a star. It is, however, much 
the best policy to have divisions or separate structures for accommodat¬ 
ing early, midseason, or late varieties. Early: Alexander, Hale’s 
Early, and Dr. Hogg ; Nectarines : Lord Napier and Goldoni. Mid¬ 
season : Stirling Castle, Alexandra Noblesse, Bellegarde, and Belle 
Beauce ; Nectarines : Hardwicke and Rivers’ Orange. Late : Barring¬ 
ton, Princess of Wales, Walburton Admirable, Sea Eagle, and Glad¬ 
stone ; Nectarines : Pine Apple and Victoria. The structures should 
have south or south-west aspects. We have one, however, for late on a 
west aspect which has been very satisfactory. The chief thing with 
trees in unheated houses is to train the growths rather thinly, so as to 
insure short-jointed wood ; thoroughly solidified growth, to allow 
unobstructed light, and provide efficient ventilation. Proper attention 
must of course be given to cleanliness and due supplies of aliment. 
There is also the important consideration of retarding the blossom in 
spring as far as practicable. This we find best effected by removing the 
roof lights as soon as the leaves fall, and allowing them to remain off 
until the blossoms are swelling and showing colour. It also has a 
"beneficial effect on the trees by the cleansing influence of rain and 
snow, and is well worth attention if only in securing the thorough 
moistening of the soil. Such trees can be kept perfectly under control 
by occasional lifting and root-pruning, as may be considered expedient. 
Overluxuriance or a tendency to late growth is overcome by lifting, 
which should be done after the wood becomes firm, and whilst the 
foliage is still upon the trees. Intelligently practised lifting and laying 
the roots near the surface and firm soil is the surest remedy for trees 
that fail to set and stone full crops of fruit. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Trenching and Digging. —We do not approve of vacant vege¬ 
table quarters in winter, but as late Potatoes are dug and Peas or Kidney 
Beans are cleared away little can be done to refill the ground at this 
season, and as there is now plenty of time for trenching and digging 
these important operations should receive attention. Every garden is 
dug, but trenching is rarely attempted by those eager to work their 
gardens cheaply, but it is a great mistake to avoid it, as it is one of the 
most beneficial operations anyone can possibly engage in. The worst 
soils are improved rapidly by trenching, and the best will become more 
fertile under this treatment. There is little danger of crops failing in a 
thoroughly trenched soil, and let the weather or season be wet or dry 
advantageous results will follow in all cases. Unless actual rock is 
reached near the surface the soil should be trenched to a depth of 2 feet 
at least, or 6 inches more if possible. Refuse of a fertile character may 
be trenched down to these depths with excellent results, and this will 
afford considerable drainage to the crops. The surface should be left in 
a rough state, as the frost and wind of winter will soften and sweeten 
it for early spring seed sowing. 
Forcing Rhubarb. —As the Apple crop is not heavy this year 
there will be early demand for Rhubarb. Too much Rhubarb is grown 
in some gardens. We often see large quarters from which half the 
crop is not gathered, and as this takes up ground that might be more 
profitably filled with other crops, we advise the early forcing of all 
surplus roots. Until Christmas or a little later Rhubarb is a profitable 
crop in the market, but in the spring months it is a difficult matter for 
small growers to make it remunerative. Roots four years old and 
onwards may be forced, and if well matured they will yield a good crop 
for cutting in November or December. They are rarely too old to force, 
and we hare sometimes cut huge clumps in two, taken up one half to 
force and allowed the other to remain for a year or two longer. There 
are two good ways of forcing Rhubarb—one is to cover it with inverted 
pots, casks, or boxes, and place a quantity of fermenting material 
around them in the form of a hotbed. The other way is to lift the 
roots, place them in a Mushroom house, near a flue or under a warm 
stage, and in partial darkness. With a bottom heat of 85° or 90°, and a 
top heat of 70°, with plenty of moisture, the growths will appear in ten 
days after placing them in heat, and we have cut the produce in twenty- 
one days after treating it in this way in December. For private use 
two or three roots taken in every fortnight will give a constant supply. 
Autumn-sown Onions. —These have grown well this autumn, but 
owing to the absence of sunshine they are somewhat tender, and if 
early or severe frost occurs they may suffer considerably. This may, 
however, be partially averted by shaking a little sand or finely sifted 
ashes along each side of the rows, and immediately afterwards put the 
foot on each side of the plants and tread the soil down all along and 
close to them as firmly as it can be pressed. The soil will not then re¬ 
tain superfluous moisture at the roots, the plants will become more 
robust and hardy, and they will pass through the winter without 
shrivelling at the points or withering at the roots, and when spring 
comes tew will attempt to run to seed prematurely, an evil from which 
many suffer. 
Spring Cabbages. —The same remarks and the same practice 
apply to these. When the plants are loose in the ground the wind 
upsets them, they form large flabby leaves, and suffer much by frost ; 
but when the soil is very firm around them they grow robustly. Wind 
does not disturb them, and when the spring comes they are ready to 
begin forming heads and will be ready for cutting some weeks before the 
large-leaved plants, although these may appear the largest. Blanks 
should be made good, then draw a quantity of soil to the stems with a 
drag hoe, and tread round every plant afterwards. This is beneficial 
everywhere, but more particularly on light soils. 
Applying Lime. —We never like to apply lime to the soil imme¬ 
diately before planting or sowing. In a fresh state it is apt to produce 
rust on roots, and scab in the Potato has often been traced to this 
cause, but if the lime is applied some months before the planting season 
the results will be beneficial. In carrying out the digging or trenching 
above suggested the lime should be introduced, especially to the soil 
near the surface, as it is there it is most wanted, and if applied there 
at present it will be washed through the whole by the spring. We 
apply it on the quarters in one or two barrowloads here and there, a 
quantity of soil is thrown over it, when it swells and bursts, and is dug 
in soon afterwards. 
Vegetable Refuse. —As fallen leaves are now plentiful and 
decayed vegetables are to be found in all gardens the present is the best 
of all times to form a heap of vegetable refuse. Everything in this 
form, as well as any old soil of a fertile description, helps to make a 
heap of manure. If placed together and mixed in a mound 3 feet or 
4 feet in depth it will be well decayed by March, and in fine condition 
for digging in with Potatoes or any other crop. 
Winter Turnips. —Generally yellow Turnips or the Chirk Castle 
type are usually grown for winter, but in some cases these are not 
relished so much as the white ones, and where it is desired to keep the 
latter as late as possible the soil should now be drawn up over the roots 
