430 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
I November 14, 1889. 
ings, gardener to S. VV. Graystone, Esq., Hurst Side, W. Mo'esey ; third, 
Mr. R. Carote, gardener to J. P. Robinson, Esq., Brookleigh, Esher; 
fourth, Mr. J. Wilkins. The varieties in the prize stand were :—George 
Daniels, J. Ddlaux, Madame Audiguier, Etoile de Lyon, Pelican, Boule 
d’Or, Album Fimbriatum, Yal d’Andorre, Sarah Owen, M. J. Laing, 
Criterion, Elaine. 
For twelve reflexed, not more than two of any variety, Mr. G. 
Garpenter was first with Amy Furze, Cloth of Gold, Cuilingfordi, 
Golden Christine (2), Pink Christine (2), Mrs. Forsyth, Cuilingfordi, 
Peach Christine, Putney George, Phidias. Second Mr. W. Mease, 
third Mr. A. C. Hookings. Twelve Anemone flowered, six good 
stands were exhibited, the prizes falling to Messrs. E. Coombs, 
M. Sullivan, and Mr. G. Carpenter. Twelve Japanese Anemones.—Mr. 
G. Woodgate was first in this class, Mr. Hookings second, and Mr. 
M. Sullivan third. Twelve Pompons, Anemones excluded, triplets.— 
The prizes in good competition fell to Messrs. W. Clark, Woods, and 
J. W. Read respectively. Twelve Anemone Pompons.—The prizes went 
to Messrs. Clark, Read, and Carpenter in the order of their names. 
First-class certificates were awarded to Mr. E. Molyneux for mag¬ 
nificent blooms of Etoile de Lyon, and good examples of Miss Haggas. 
A similar honour was accorded for Lady Dorothy, a buff sport from 
Hero of Stoke Newington, exhibited by Mr. J. Buss, gardener to A. W. 
Aston, Esq., West Hill, Epsom. 
Three miscellaneous groups were staged, Mr. J. W. Reed being dis¬ 
tinctly first, Mr. T. A. Glover second, and Mr. J. Buss third. 
Mr. H. W. Pitcher, gardener to Mrs. Dunnage, Surbiton, was the first 
in the Chrysanthemum group class, and Mr. T. Hunt, gardener to Cecil 
Boyle, Esq., Wimbledon, a close second. Mr. W. Sheet, gardener to 
J. F. W. Ponsford, Esq., Esher, and Mr. J. Sallows, Twickenham, won 
the chief prizes for large-flowered specimen plants, and Mr. Reed for 
Pompons. 
Excellent exhibits of fruit, epergnes, bouquets, and amateurs’ 
Chrysanthemums can only be mentioned approvingly as contributing 
much to the interest of the Show. The Exhibition was well managed 
by Mr. Woodgate (the Secretary), Mr. Puttock, and other officials. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Earliest Houses .—To have ripe fruit 
in April houses that are planted with Alexander and Waterloo Peaches 
may be closed now, fire heat not being applied until the beginning of 
December. Desirable, however, as are those varieties for forcing to 
afford very early dishes of ripe fruit, it must be borne in mind that they 
have not the quality of Hale’s Early, Stirling Castle, or Royal George, 
which started at the same time will not afford fruit until May. The 
house must be kept close, but admitting air freely above 50°, employ¬ 
ing fire heat only to prevent the temperature falling below 35°. The 
more slowly the trees are excited the stronger will be the blossoms. 
The outside border must be well protected with litter or dry fern, 
and if wooden shutters or tarpaulin are available they will be advan¬ 
tageous in throwing off excessive wet. A thorough soaking of water 
should be given to the inside borders, and if the trees are weakly a soak¬ 
ing of liquid manure not too strong will tend to a more vigorous break. 
Sprinkle the trees in the morning and afternoon of bright days, but do 
not keep them dripping with moisture, especially at night. 
Succession Houses .—All the leaves are off, except in the latest house, 
where they shou'd not be forcibly removed, at least not until they 
part readily from the trees, but when they are all off or come easily by 
brushing with the hand or a light broom, unfasten the trees from the 
trellis, prune them, cleanse them and the house thoroughly, and, if need 
be, paint the woodwork and trellis. Tie the trees to the trellis, leaving 
room for the branches to swell. Remove the surface soil and supply 
fresh, give a good watering to the inside borders, thereby having all in 
readiness for a start when required. The houses should ’be kept as cool 
as possible. 
Lifting and lloot-pru ■ ing Fresh Trees .—Any lifting, root-pruning, or 
the introduction of fresh trees should be performed at once, the planting 
being proceeded with as soon as the leaves are nearly off the trees to be 
removed. Trees for planting in houses are best if trained for three to 
five years to walls or under glass, and prepared for lifting by digging 
round them a year previously. Such trees can be lifted with an abun¬ 
dance of fibres, and being carefully planted they force well the first 
season, not being brought on too rapidly, and a moderate crop taken. 
It is always best to select these trees in preference to planting young 
ones, which do not fruit much the first two or three years, hence the 
advantage of planting trees in an already bearing state. 
Pines. —Liberal ventilation should be afforded to houses or pits 
containing young plants whenever the weather is favourable, and avoid 
damping, as keeping the houses constantly saturated is more injurious 
than otherwise. Water will not be required frequently, yet the plants 
must be examined every ten days, watering such as require it, as too 
great dryness is more injurious than otherwise, indeed extreme dryness 
is more prejudicial than is commonly supposed. 
In the fruiting department lose no opportunity of closing the house 
at 85°, keeping the night temperature at 70°, or a few degrees less in 
cold weather. Remove all the superfluous suckers, retaining one only, 
the best on each plant. Suckers that appear on successional plants 
before the fruit is visible should be removed unless increase of stock is 
urgent. At this time of year it is usual to make new beds of fermenting 
material for the young plants. Tan is unquestionably the best, a good 
substitute being found in Oak or Beech leaves, which should now be 
collected as dry as possible. In forming beds of leaves they must be 
firmly pressed ; tan, on the other hand, should be placed lightly 
together. 
Strawberries in Pots. — Possibly there is no greater error in 
growing Strawberries in pots than placing them in Peach houses and 
other structures with constantly open ventilators, wherefrom the passing 
currents of air evaporation is constant and excessive, which only wastes 
the energies of the plants, and not unfrequently destroys the roots at 
the sides of the pots. All plants for early forcing should be in frames 
with a view to protect them from heavy rains only. Those for mid¬ 
season and late forcing are as well plunged in ashes in a sheltered 
situation as anywhere else, having a light covering of bracken or straw 
in severe weather. Drought is the great bane of the Strawberry, 
therefore those in frames must never be neglected, the soil always 
being kept moist. 
Plants of Noble, La Grosse Sucrde, and Vicomtesse Hdricart de Thury 
(we name them in the order we have found their merits for early forc¬ 
ing) or other early sorts must be held in readiness for placing in the 
early Peach house, to which fire heat will be applied early next month, 
or in the Strawberry house if one exist. If the plants are not so forward 
as desired it is advisable to make up a bed of leaves about 2 feet high, 
and place the plants in a frame upon it, packing the spaces between the 
pots with damp leaves. The bottom heat at the base of the pots need 
not exceed 65°. the top being kept cool, 50° not being exceeded, and 
when mild draw off the lights. This will tend to promote activity at 
the roo(s and to push the crowns. After three weeks to a month of this 
treatment the pots must be withdrawn or raised if the bed be still 
warm, so as to insure the plants bearing the temperature of the Peach 
house or Strawberry house without check, as would be the case were 
they taken from a warm bed direct to the shelves. Plants for placing 
in vineries to be started next month require similar treatment. In case 
of plants having well-developed crowns and abundant roots the slight 
bottom heat is not necessary. 
Those having the convenience of a house for forcing Strawberries 
will find it a considerable advantage in very early forcing to start the 
plants in mild bottom heat, and if a pit be employed having artificial 
heat, so as to maintain the top heat at 50° in severe weather, keeping 
them in it until the trusses are pushed clear of the crowns before 
removing them to their fruiting quarters. Time will be gained, and 
as a rule very careful treatment is necessary to secure a satisfactory 
result with the first early forced plants. If worms have gained 
entrance to the pots dislodge them with lime water, rectifying any 
defects of drainage. 
Melons. —Except in the latest house these are nearly over. The 
latest plants have the fruits just beginning to net, and will be ripe some 
time in December. They need a moist genial condition of the atmosphere 
to insure their swelling, damping the house in the morning and again 
in the afternoon, putting on a “ chink ” of air in the early part of the 
forenoon to insure the dissipation of the moisture that may have accumu¬ 
lated or been condensed, and induce evaporation from the foliage. The 
night temperature should be maintained at 60° to 65°, and 70° to 75° by 
day artificially, advancing as much as can be had from sun heat after 
the sun passes the meridian. The plants may have liquid manure about 
twice a week. The fruit will ripen, and Drove acceptable even at 
Christmas and the new year. 
Plants that set their fruit early are ripening. They should have 
ventilation constantly, and a temperature of 70° to 75°, with as much 
more as can be accorded by day, husbanding the sun heat, but not 
closing the house, withholding water from the atmosphere and roots 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Forcing Asparagus. — With suitable heat Asparagus may be 
forced almost as freely and to yield as many beads in November and 
December as it will in January or February, but it is of the first 
importance that the roots be well developed, not under four years old, 
and in the best condition. Roots that have ceased to be profitable iD 
the open ground need not be forced in the expectation that they will 
become better under this treatment, but where it has been decided to do 
away with any old p’antations the roots may be forced, if only to obtain 
a few heads. Forcing need not be entered into so fully at this time as 
in spring, but all who can spare a few dozen roots should force them at 
present, or to be ready by Christmas at the latest. Lift roots that are 
large and well matured. Do not break any of the rootlets in doing so, 
but keep them entire. Three dozen good roots will give several hundreds 
of useful heads, and we prefer this to larger quantities at long intervals. 
If the number mentioned above are put in once a fortnight from now 
until March there will be a constant supply of Asparagus for the table 
throughout the winter. The roots may be forced in any ordinary hot¬ 
bed, but they produce the heads more quickly in a pit where there is a 
bottom heat of 80°, and a top temperature of 65° or 70° can be provided. 
Here the heads will be ready for cutting in from twelve days to fifteen 
