458 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 28i 18ft9l 
hold some white Bellflower and so on till all the beds are filled 
with larger or smaller patches of colour ; but the mixture is quite 
as bad and as ill associated as the old mixed flower border. 
Now, the merest tyro amongst our readers who thinks at all 
about the matter will say this random way of laying on the colours 
of our flower gardens is anything but good taste. How is it to be 
corrected, is the question ; how shall we learn to avoid such 
errors ? Our answer is, By studying the affinities of colours, by 
having a ground plan of the garden, and arranging the colours on 
that plan previously to putting in a single plant. The brightest 
and warmest colour (scarlet) may be placed in the centre or centres, 
the next (red or crimson) surrounding it, with a bed or two of the 
less glowing colours (yellow and orange) intermixed with rose or 
purple. Then follow these with the colder colours of blue or 
purple, bringing them down to lilac and white. If this plan is 
followed, with some modification or softening, the whole will have 
that pleasing harmonious effect so desirable in garden scenery. 
Contrasts may be followed sometimes, but not too often. Never 
imagine that one flower sets off another unless there is an approach 
to affinity between them. To follow the simile, the natural rose on 
the cheek of “the fairest of the fair” is more pleasing than the 
blackest patch, because it is more in harmony with the natural 
colour of the rest of the face ; hence the fashion of wearing patches 
as contrasts has disappeared, we trust, for ever. Study, then, the 
affinities or relations of colours, and never act to any extent upon 
that saying—a black will set off a white. 
Where there are no beds to group flowers in masses the same 
principles ought to guide us in planting borders, or even shrubberies 
and Rose gardens ; let the colours gradually, as it were, melt away 
into each other. What a wide field is here opened to us of pleasant 
labour and delight. To what a great extent the true principles of 
arranging colours may be carried. These principles may be applied 
to the arrangement of a simple bouquet of four or five flowers, as 
well as to the magnificent array of floral objects in the large 
exhibitions. They may be applied quite as correctly in the flower 
border or beds of the cottage as in the largest conservatories and 
flower gardens of the royal or princely mansion. We might enlarge 
much on this fascinating subject, but other objects press upon us. 
Enough has been said, we trust, to induce both amateurs and 
cottagers to think on the effect of a better arrangement of colours 
previous to filling their beds and borders with flowers another 
season. 
Rustic baskets and vases judiciously placed near to the dwelling 
house, either on the pillars of a low wall or on pedestals, on a 
terrace walk, or one on each side of the entrance to the house, they 
are quite proper and in good taste, if not too numerous or too large 
in proportion to the size of the garden or house. Yases to grow 
plants in can bi had of almost any size and form from the different 
manuf ciurers.— An Old Gardener. 
GARDENIAS AND STEPIIANOT1S. 
My object is to describe as clearly as possible the cultivation 
these will succeed under when occupying one house, and especially 
is this recommended where economy of space is a consideration. 
It is common in most gardens to see the Stephanotis trained to the 
roof of a stove—a good place I admit where no other is at command. 
The plants to occupy the house under such dense foliage will, how¬ 
ever, make weak sickly growth compared with those in an open 
position. Assuming, then, you have a low pit or small span-roofed 
house, the roof should be covered with wire trellis about 8 or 
10 inches away from the glass, and 8 inches apart. The stage 
should consist of slate slabs, or oak boards 2 inches thick, and when 
placing them in position have room for free supply of water, as 
abundance of drainage is required. Thoroughly clean and white¬ 
wash the walls to completely destroy all insects ; prepare a compost 
of good loam and peat in equal parts, and to every four barrow¬ 
loads add 1 bushel of charcoal. Previous to taking it in place a 
layer of turf grass side downwards, then the compost about 
4 inches in depth. 
When this is done the Stephanotis should be planted at one 
end of the house in a mound on the top of that previously brought 
in; thin and tie the growths to the wires, then give attention to the 
Gardenias, planting as recommended for the Stephanotis, for when 
growth commences roots will soon be seen protruding through the 
sides of the mounds. When such is the case add more compost, 
which will assist them wonderfully. Keep them syringed two or 
three times a day, and especially at closing time. A temperature 
of from 65° to 80° in summer, and from 60° to 70°, &c., in the 
winter, or even a little less, will not harm them. The plants are 
both subject to mealy bug, but there is no difficulty in keeping 
them clean when grown together if syringed once a fortnight with 
a mixture of warm water and petroleum, and then syringing them 
immediately after with clean water. Little need be said in favour 
of their qualities ; as cut flowers they are especially adapted for 
bouquets and other decorations, and they command great favour on\ 
account of their fragrance.— R. Kirby, O'ulton Hall, Leeds-. 
WEEPING TREES- 
A better name for trees of this description would be drooping,, 
for they are trees the branches of which, instead of growing in the 
more general way upwards, send their slender shoots- downwards 
The Weeping Willow, the Weeping Ash, and'the Weeping Elm are- 
the most familiar examples of this mode of growth. In order to 
have handsome trees of this description it is necessary to graft or 
bud the weeping variety on tall upright species of the same genus-. 
Choose such as have clean straight stems ; prune off all the small 
branches to the desired height, and if there are three branches near 
the top leave them on to receive, at the proper season, a graft on 
each. The tree will then sooner make a good head of weeping 
branches, and be equally balanced on each side. 
June is a good season for budding upright-growing Willows, 
Ashes, Elms, Beeches, and Laburnums, as will make good stocks 
with drooping varieties. Should these buds succeed you will securo 
a growth early in the following spring. Should part of the buds 
fail the stocks will be in good condition to graft in the March on 
April following. These stocks should not be worked—that is, 
grafted or budded—till they have attained the height of 8 feet, or 
thereabout. There is no objection to 10 or 12 feet in height, but* 
rather an advantage, especially in such strong and rapid growers a3 
the Weeping Ash and Elm. By having straight stems of such 
altitude the trees will form a natural shady harbour, under which, 
when the weather is hot, chairs or rustic seats might be placedi 
For such weeping shrubs as the several kinds of Cytisus, and Roses’ 
that have pendant habits, stocks of lesser heights would be more 
desirable, and for this reason, that as they are grown chiefly for 
their flowers, those ought not to be too much elevated. From 5 to- 
6 feet will be quite high enough. 
We have already alluded to one use to which trees and shrubs of 
this description may be applied—that of forming a leafy bower, as 
shelter from the burning heat of the sun in summer. They are- 
also sufficiently ornamental to be very desirable. What is more 
elegant and graceful than a drooping tree, a Willow or a Birch 
especially ? What more beautiful than the pendant Rose, its 
branches clothed with flowers of every hue ? Then the pretty 
Cytisus, either with purple or white flowers, is very ornamental in- 
front of the shrubbery, in the middle of a bed of flowers, or planted 
on the lawn. As ornaments, then, in garden scenery, they are of 
use and very desirable. Some of them, and more especially the 
Weeping Willow, are very beautiful if planted near the edge of a 
piece of water. There they are quite in character, and the more so- 
from the pleasing shadow they cast upon the water. No other 
kind of tree except, perhaps, the Cypress, is so well adapted as a. 
memorial of departed friends. The faithful servants of Napoleon 
showed their attachment to their master by surrounding his tomb 
at St. Helena with the Weeping Willow ; and when they lent the- 
island they brought slip3 of those trees and planted them in their 
garden in “ la belle France ” as remembrancers. 
The most extraordinary weeping tree we ever noticed is a, 
common Ash (Fraxinus excelsior) of some 50 or 60 feet high, with 
a clean straight stem, had all its side branches pruned off to nearly 
the top of the tree. Upon the highest shoots some grafts of the- 
weeping variety were inserted. They succeeded, and when we had 
the privilege of seeing them they had made considerable progress, 
downwards with every prospect of doing well. A young Ash or 
Elm, or common Willow, may be growing in the shrubbery of an 
amateur or the hedgerow of a cottager’s garden ; and though of 
themselves not uninteresting, they may be rendered much more so 
by grafting weeping varieties upon them. Thus the wonders of 
the grafting art may be shown in many an obscure nook throughout 
the land.—T. W. M. 
LILY OF THE VALLEY. 
This popular plant is so well known by everyone that no 
description here is necessary. It is in no way particular about 
soil, and it will thrive in sunshine almost as well as in shade, the 
latter, however, being generally selected for it. It does best in a 
substantial loam, or in any soils rich in humus—such as are obtained 
from decomposed leaves. It should not at any season of it3 
growth be allowed to suffer from a deficiency of water. The roots 
and shoots grow so fast as to soon form a dense mass, and should 
therefore be lifted occasionally and divided, operating on a portion 
at a time. An annual dressing of manure over the crown in 
