December 5, 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
481 
Those who have never stored Pears on this principle may upon 
Erst examining the contents of the boxes be somewhat alarmed at 
finding the paper and shavings thoroughly damp, which they are 
certain to be. Some of the fruits in our large boxes were quite 
moist the other day. This is one reason why we object to too large 
boxes. No harm appears, however, to result, although we do not 
like to see them too moist. The fruits when stored in boxes keep 
plump and colour beautifully. There are very few Pears that 
irefuse to colour if properly treated. 
By this process many varieties colour well while the flesh 
remains firm, and we are convinced that they are improved in 
flavour by placing them in a warm room during the last stages of 
ripening. When the fruit is wanted, or some of it, to maintain a 
succession it can be placed in a warm room after they have been in 
boxes about a week or so, according to the variety. Beurre Ranee, 
Bergamotte Esperen, Josephine de Malines, and other late varieties 
should not be hurried.—W m. Bardney. 
HARDY PLANT NOTES. 
Hellebores. —The majority of persons who possess handsome 
specimens of these plants will be looking forward to the annual 
display of their welcome flowers, the better forms of which are so 
justly prized at this season of the year. The thought of attempt¬ 
ing to transplant the roots at this time would undoubtedly appear 
somewhat ridiculous, as no doubt it would be to some extent were 
it recommended generally ; but it is not, nor is there any occasion to 
disturb these specimens so long as the possessor is certain that they 
have plenty of suitable soil for their requirements, and the plants 
themselves by the luxuriance of their foliage and the abundant 
supply of their flowers afford ample proof that they are in good 
condition. But what I have to say just now about these very 
desirable plants is more especially directed to those who may be 
thinking of making new plantations, and my advice is to plant at 
once and not delay till the arrival of spring, a season, that suits many 
of our best hardy plants admirably, but is altogether wrong for 
the “ niger ” section of this family, and particularly does this apply 
to all those localities where the soil is light or sandy, or, what is 
equally bad, a soil which for summer is overdrained. 
Though not particular as to soil itself, these Hellebores are 
most happy in rather heavy loamy land, the depth of which cannot 
be too great, and finally a cool moist position where a free circula¬ 
tion of air is continually going on. Some few years since the 
whole of our Hellebores were planted on one of the open quarters, 
and though cared for as well as circumstances would permit, their 
appearance indicated that the position was unsuitable, but better 
quarters were obtained for them, and they now grow in luxuriance 
between hedges of Oval-leaved Privet, well repaying by their rapid 
increase. The full heat of summer sun they cannot endure, nor do 
they require the incessant cold and shade that a 9-inch wall affords. 
The shelter and shade they need is only partial, and should be 
•afforded them by evergreen hedges wherever possible. This kind 
of protection is of great benefit, and in many instances our plants 
which are nearest the hedge, in spite of the latter robbing the soil 
by its mass of roots, as well as keeping off the rain, are decidedly 
more vigorous and the foliage more abundant than are those plants 
a feet away, and which have in consequence a far greater share of 
summer sun than those nestling at the foot of the hedge. 
From these facts, then, it may be gleaned that a partially shaded 
«pot is what they thoroughly enjoy, and such a one could, if sought 
after, be found in almost any garden ; for a couple or three shrubs 
or Conifers would supply the need if properly placed, and what 
more beautiful or useful than large handsome patches of these old- 
fashioned perennials ? Not only does the foliage appreciate pro¬ 
tection from sun and heat, for the roots also are equally fond of mois¬ 
ture, or, more correctly, of being continually cool, to ensure which 
some amateur growers bury blocks of sandstone in the soil. But 
while admitting the great benefits accruing from such treatment, I 
fear it is too elaborate for the majority of those who grow Christ¬ 
mas Roses. Three feet depth of well enriched soil they fully 
value, and for dry, hot, much drained soils, cow manure may be 
employed freely, keeping it a few inches below the roots at 
planting time. No period is equal to the early autumn months for 
planting, and the earlier the better, thereby insuring as many newly 
formed roots as possible. When well established, these plants are 
much benefited by bountiful supplies of liquid manure in autumn 
and winter. I much prefer giving it to them at this time when the 
soil generally is well charged with moisture, for then it lies about 
•the surface and descends gradually to the roots below ; while, if 
given in summer time, it quickly passes through the soil, and affords 
little or no help to the plants themselves. It is worthy of note that 
the varieties of Helleborus orientalis, as also H. colchicus, H. anti¬ 
quorum, H. guttatus, and H. purpurascens, do not suffer in the 
same degree either from the effects of sun or from spring planting 
as the varieties of Christmas Rose, and may therefore be planted in 
more open positions, and over a more extended period, without in¬ 
curring any risk. Many of this last-named section have very hand¬ 
some foliage, which, coupled with their more or less beautiful and 
curious flowers, are always productive of good effect in the her¬ 
baceous border, the rockery, or the shrubbery. 
Herbaceous Peonies. — These afford another illustration 
wherein autumn planting is essential to success, and all who desire 
the best results should make a point of early autumn planting for 
all Paeonies. More especially should this fact be impressed upon all 
who take an interest in these plants, for the reason that they take 
longer to establish than any other hardy perennials. Those which 
have made 6 or 8 inches of young growth are often planted, but 
alas ! for the results, for not only is that season’s growth lost, but 
the plant is also much weakened, and the ensuing autumn will 
disclose, if an examination be made, nothing but weak thin look¬ 
ing buds in place of the large plump buds which may have been had 
autumn planting been resorted to. Few plants are less trouble 
than these Pasonies when once established, and they may remain 
for an indefinite period in the same position, and increase in size 
and beauty annually. A little extra pains with them at planting 
time is not, therefore, of great moment when it is considered that 
they are safe for ten or a dozen years without replanting ; indeed, 
I know an instance where a plant of Triomphe de Paris has stood 
for nearly twenty-five years, and every season it is quite a feature, 
fully 4 feet through, and producing abundance of its lovely fragrant 
flowers. It is when seen thus that some idea of their value is 
obtained. All they require is a deep and rich soil. Secure good 
plants with well developed crown buds, and plant in autumn. All 
the after attention they require is an annual mulching of manure, 
or plenty of liquid manure in the autumn and winter. In the event 
of mulching be careful not to injure the buds, as these show rather 
prominently above the surface in some kinds even in winter time 
after they have been planted a couple of years.—J. H. E. 
SALT AS A MANURE. 
Mr. Rivers need not fear that a moderate dressing of salt 
will injuriously affect his Plum trees, or, in fact, any other plant. 
The vegetation of Mount Edgecombe, the sheltered gardens of 
Falmouth, Penzance, Tresco, in the Scilly Islands, and Jersey, 
which are protected from the direct action of the saline spray, prove 
conclusively that a soil containing a large proportion of salt de¬ 
posited from the saline atmosphere is not injurious to vegetation, 
but on the contrary, is compatib'e with the most luxuriant growth. 
On the coast line, and for as far inland as the saline atmosphere 
is carried by the winds, the application of salt would be un¬ 
necessary, but further inland the soil may not contain sufficient 
soda, and perhaps chlorine, for the requirements of some plants. I 
know no reason why salt (chloride of sodium) should benefit Plum 
trees, but I cannot speak positively, as I have been unable to find 
an analysis of either the wood or the foliage ; these may contain 
such a proportion of soda as would show that the application of 
salt is useful. But, on the other hand, most complete analyses have 
been made of the fruit ; these indicate that potash is the proper 
manure for Plum trees, for the ash of the fruit contains 59 per cent, 
of potash and only £ per cent, of soda, an exceptionally small pro¬ 
portion of that element. All plants contain more or less of soda. 
The ashes of the fruit of the Apple, Fig, and Strawberry an 
unusually large proportion, averaging about 27 per cent. ; of the 
Pine and Gooseberry about 10 per cent. ; therefore these fruits 
are benefited by moderate dressings of salt. Asparagus, Beet, 
Radish, and Rhubarb all contain a very large proportion of soda. 
Carrot, Lettuce, Parsley, Vegetable Marrow, Hyacinth, and 
Primula more than an average proportion, consequently salt is 
indicated as a suitable manure for them. Many other plants might 
be specified to which salt is useful, but these are sufficient for the 
purpose of illustration. Overdoses of salt are destructive to 
vegetation, so are overdoses of guano, the value of which as a 
manure no one will dispute. Salt by itself in the absence of one 
or more of the elements necessary for plant growth is useless. 
Every plant requires certain proportions of potash, soda, lime, 
magnesia, iron, phosphorus, sulphur, silica, chlorine, and nitrogen ; 
all these must be present in the soil in such proportions as each 
plant requires for the purpose of perfect growth. "V ille has stated 
that all soils contain sufficient of all of them except potash, lime, 
phosphorus, and nitrogen, and limits his formulas of artificial 
manures to these, but Dr. Griffiths has proved conclusively that 
iron, in the form of the sulphate, may be added to artificial manures 
with very great advantage to the crops. Others have proved that 
the manurial value of soda and magnesia is in certain cases very 
