482 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 5, 1899, 
great, from which it may be fairly concluded that to at Ain ihe 
best results from artificial fertilisers it is desirable to make them as 
complete as possible, proportioning the ingredients, where we have 
reliable analyses of the plants or soil, according to the special 
requirements of the former and the deficiencies of the latter.— 
Edmund Tones. 
OUTDOOR PEACH CULTURE. 
I have often heard it said that if we want a Peach of first 
rate flavour it must come from trees grown on the open walls. 
1 believe many others are of that opinion, myself included. 
Trees grown under glass with special treatment possess one great 
advantage over those grown outside in more certainty of a crop 
and perhaps larger fruits ; but briskness of flavour as well as 
colour and firmness of flesh are often wanting, and which even the 
orchard house, at one time so popular, fails to supply. My object 
here is not to induce people to ignore growing Peaches under glass, 
which is a most commendable plan for lengthening the season of 
production, but I cannot help thinking that outdoor cultivation of 
Peaches has been too much neglected and in some cases discon¬ 
tinued without sufficient reason. I see no other cause for this 
apathy than that our fickle climate and short and sometimes sun¬ 
less seasons militate so much against the certainty of a crop. I 
hope some day to see a little more attention paid to the old 
system of Peach growing, and more of our garden walls adorned 
with this delicious fruit. 
There is no lack of good sorts to back up the effort that have 
stood the test of time, and which to this day may be produced as 
good and luscicus as ever they were. It is only to go about the 
work in the right way by securing a good rooting medium, 
favourable aspect, and plenty of wall space, together with plodding 
attention, patient training, and pruning with sound judgment so 
as to admit all the light and air to the trees, and beyond all to keep 
them free from injurious insects and mildew. Beyond this, how¬ 
ever, the comparative tenderness of the Peach tree suggests a 
proper system of protection from spring frosts, for be the situation 
ever so favourable our climate is too fickle to run the risk of doing 
without it. 
Coming first to the soil most suitable, it may be mentioned that 
the Peach requires a lighter material than either the Pear or Plum, 
yet a good sound loam, rather adhesive than light, made up about 
2 feet 6 inches in depth, resting upon a good natural drainage if 
possible, and young trees without the addition of strong manure I 
have found answer well. The object is to prevent the production 
of coarse, too luxuriant, or spongy shoots, which the trees are 
liable to do when young. Neither is it well for the first year to 
make the border too wide, 4 feet being quite sufficient; rather 
would I add to the width as the trees require it. Whatever pre¬ 
paration may be made for the roots care should be taken to prevent 
their getting too deep, not only by the sinking of the soil, but 
by additions made from time to time as top-dressings. If the 
borders are cropped it will be necessary to add to the staple of the 
soil to replace that taken from it by the crops. I think heavy 
cropping of fruit tree borders a necessary evil, inasmuch as very 
few gardens are of sufficient scope to dispense with it. 
Next to the soil is a suitable aspect and sufficient wall space. 
With regard to the former, though the south side of a north wall is 
generally chosen, I have in some gardens both seen Peaches and 
had them do well on an eastern or western aspect, provided the 
situation is high, dry, and open, and no light, sun, or air obstructed 
by other trees. I do not advise Peach trees to be planted alter¬ 
nately 'with Pears and Plums, as in these cases of mixed planting 
the Peach trees are the first to succumb. With regard to wall 
space it is false economy to curtail that too much ; if so. the severe 
pruning necessary to keep the trees within bounds precludes them 
from ever reaching or growing into a healthy and fruitful state. A 
fair height to the wall is as much a necessity as the proper distance 
from tree to tree. Too much cramping either way ends generally 
in disappointment. 
The many examples of skilful outdoor Peach culture to be seen 
in various gardens give proof, if any were needed, that a judicious 
system of pruning and training of the shoots is as important to 
help towards success. Both the Peach and Nectarine bear their fruits 
upon the young -wood of the previous year, and the blossom buds 
rising close to the eyes of the shoots it becomes evident that the 
more light, sun, and air they can get the better will the wood be 
ripened. In that case summer pruning or disbudding at different 
times, so as to keep the shoots thin and regulated, is more important 
than winter pruning where the knife has to be used—in fact, the 
latter implement should be employed very sparingly. Winter prun¬ 
ing, however, is best done when approaching the spring months, when 
the most severe frosts are past, and before the blossom buds become 
very prominent. In pruning or disbudding always hive an eye to 
keeping the body of the tree well supplied with healthy young- 
wood ; if not, as the tree extends in size the middle part of it 
becomes bare of both wood and fruit.—T hos. Record. 
TREATMENT OF SOILS, MANURES, AND CROPS- 
Broccoli. 
Broccoli should not follow any crop of its own family,; 
but, like Cauliflowers and Cabbages, succeed one of the crops- 
previously enumerated. Sow Snow's Winter White or Knight’s- 
Protecting Broccoli on a warm border the first week of March. 
These w T ill come in for cutting in January, February, and March,, 
after the late autumn Cauliflowers. Knight’s will often turn iir 
during December, and I have found it very useful. The plot 
chosen for the seed bed should be good soil, as present manuring 
is useless, well dug and trodden down firm, and all will he well if 
protected from the ravages of the birds. 
In the early part of May plant out a plot 2 feet asunder om 
a well trenched and manured open portion of the garden. It is- 
necessary that the ground be hoed deeply often during the summer, 
so as to admit the air freely to the soil. They can receive a good 
watering with liquid manure at any time when the soil is dry. It 
is necessary to lift them at the end of October with good roots- 
and lay them up to their leaves in a frame, or in some place where 
they can be protected from the frost with mats, straw, boughs, or 
canvas. I think Snow’s is at present unsurpassed by any other- 
variety, and is especially useful for this crop, as it is hardier than- 
any other I have tried. 
In the first week of April sow a little of about three sorts to 
stand in the ground all the winter. Snow’s Winter White will 
come in for cutting in March and April, also Adam’s Early and 
others, but they are more tender than Snow’s. Plant out in June-- 
the same as with the previous crop in well prepared ground. The 
best thing to do with this crop is during October or November to- 
place the spade under and turn them over into a trench previously 
dug, and the next row into that vacated by the first, raising the 
soil well up to the leaves. Be sure and not turn them over too 
early. I once almost lost a fine crop by a fortnight of summer- 
like weather which nearly killed them all, but if done at the 
right time they, thus protected, may pass through the winter 
successfully. At the end of April sow three more sorts, which 
will come in for cutting during April and May. I like Dilcock’s- 
Bride ; I have found it decidedly the best, followed by Dalmeny 
Park and Salter’s Imperial. Though old I do not despise them, as- 
they are extra good for this sowing. These are hardy and require- 
no protection. 
In the middle of May sow two or three sorts. I have found 
Cattell’s Eclipse come in well. I have had plenty of it to cut,, 
together with Cauliflowers from the autumn sowing. There are- 
of course numerous sorts that will no doubt come in just as 
well as those mentioned. The district has much to do with 
them, and also the time of sowing and planting. If a good- 
system is set down by a young beginner, and carried out, he will- 
be able to cut heads all the year round, unless the winter is very- 
severe. The reader need not keep to the sorts named here, but 
attend to the time of sowing and planting to get them in at a 
given time. During May sow Purple Sprouting Broccoli. Be sure- 
and have a good supply, as this is certain to withstand the frosts,, 
and come in, perhaps, when many others may be annihilated by 
hard winters. No special treatment is required, only good open- 
land sheltered from north or east, plenty of manure, and well dug; 
ground. 
Savoys. 
Prepare a good piece of ground on a warm border for the seed: 
bed. It can be set out to look neat, as is usual, in well kept- 
gardens. Sow broadcast and rake the seed in. The ground can bo 
trodden either before or after sowing, but if it is wet this should ; 
not be done. The best time to sow is at the end of March or the 
beginning of April. As the plants become large enough they can 
be placed out, and treated in all respects like the Cabbages. Some, 
amongst them myself, are compelled by scarceness of ground to 
plant them between other crops, but this should be avoided if 
possible. Plant out some in May, June, and July ; the quantity 
must depend upon the spaces at disposal. It is a mistake to overdo 
it, as the ground is better if it can have a dressing and digging 
for the winter. 
COLEWORTS. 
These are often depended upon for winter use, others grow 
them for cutting during the later summer and' autumn months. 
I do not put them in the place of better members of the same 
family, such as Ewing’s No. 1, Sugarloaf, and others ; those 
who do can sow seeds in April, May, and June, and treat like 
