December s, 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
495 
Leeson, Wrawby ; second, Mr. W. H. Uppleby. Amateurs classes were 
well filled. Mr. Leadbetter, gardener to A. Wilson, Esq., Tranby Croft, 
Hull, acted as Judge. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Houses Started Early in November. —In the earliest house, 
whether the Vines are in pots or planted in borders, the temperature will 
need to be increased to 60° at night in mild weather, 55° in severe 
weather after the buds break, gradually increasing so as to have it 
60° at night when the Vines are in leaf, 65° by day in severe weather, 
and 70° to 75° in mild weather, with moderate ventilation. The evapora¬ 
tion troughs need not as yet be charged with liquid manure, provided 
there are fermenting materials in the house, but if not the troughs 
should be filled with the drainings of the dung yard or stables, 
and cow byres, avoiding, however, that of pigstyes or urinals. Failing 
those use guano, 1 lb. to 20 gallons of water, which is also suitable for 
watering Vines in pots, the water being applied at the temperature of 
the house. Tie up the Vines in position as soon as growth has well 
commenced, and before the shoots are so long as to be liable to be 
damaged in the process. Sprinkle the house two or three times a day in 
clear weather, avoiding a close moist atmosphere on the one hand and a 
dry one on the other. Disbudding should not be practised until the 
fruit shows in the points of the shoots. 
Houses to Afford Grapes in May .—The Vines that are to afford 
Grapes in May must be started at once, nothing helping more than a 
bed of leaves and stable litter placed on the floor of the house and 
turned daily. The outside border should have the needful protection 
from cold rains and snow, two-thirds of leaves to one of stable litter, 
affording a less violent but more durable heat than dung. Provided the 
outside border were covered with bracken, straw, or litter in early 
autumn, so as to throw off the wet, the temperature will be considerably 
warmer than that of the borders exposed, and in their case covering with 
hot litter may be dispensed with. The inside borders should be brought 
into a thoroughly moist state by applying water, and in the case of 
Vines that are at all weakly give liquid manure at 90°. Start with a 
night temperature of 50° in severe weather, 55° in mild weather, and 
65“ by day, except the weather be very severe, when 55° will suffice, not 
exceeding those figures until the growth commences. Maintain a moist 
atmosphere by syringing occasionally, but excessive moisture excites 
the emission of aerial roots from the rods. Depress the rods of young 
Vines to the horizontal line or below it to insure the regular breaking of 
the buds. 
Midseason Houses. —The Vines from which the Grapes have been 
cut should be pruned ; indeed it is decidedly advantageous to prune the 
Vines directly the leaves have fallen, any Grapes still hanging having 
been cut and placed in bottles of clear rain water with a piece of char¬ 
coal in each. The Grapes will often keep better than on the Vines, 
as the temperature in the room is more equable than commanded in a 
vinery. Keeping Grapes hanging after the leaves have fallen may not 
be prejudicial to Vines unless prolonged to a late period, yet the 
greater extent of young wood keeps the sap more or less in circulation, 
and there is a certain amount of waste going on which cannot take 
place when the Vines are pruned. Prune, therefore, directly the leaves 
are down, cut and bottle any Grapes remaining, thin skinned varieties 
not requiring the maturing so necessary for Gros Colman and thick-skinned 
varieties generally. In pruning adhere to the system that has proved 
satisfactory. If the Vines are in good condition they will in all probability 
give sufficiently large bunches if pruned to one at most two eyes, good 
useful Grapes for everyday use, so essential when the table must be 
supplied with fresh fruit. But if large bunches are wanted, or the 
Vines from weakness do not afford bunches so large as desired, leave 
more growth, only be careful to select sound, round, well developed 
buds on firm ripened wood ; aim, in fact, at finish. Large bunches are 
invariably defective of the finish of medium size bunches. Vines that 
afford well finished examples pruned to one bud will give a larger 
bunch and of equal finish from the second bud. If the soil be rich, 
loose, and plentiful, the chances are the shoots or canes will be gross, 
long-jointed, having large thin-textured leaves; the buds large, pointed, 
or if laterals are encouraged flat, and these may give the sensational 
bunches which justly have their merits calculated by weight. If on 
the other hand the roots are in a firm but favourable rooting 
medium, causing an increase of ramification, then the wood will be 
stout and short-jointed, the leaves thick and leathery, and the buds at 
their base will be round, plump, and well matured. It is, of course, 
assumed the foliage has full exposure to light for the solidification of the 
growth as made, and that cultural requirements are granted in full 
measure. Let the Vines be dressed, the house thoroughly cleansed 
and everything put into order, so that there need be no hurry to put 
things straight. Keep the house as cool as possible so as to insure 
complete rest. 
Late Houses. —Every precaution should be taken against damp. 
The most prolific cause of Grapes not hanging well is drip, it being 
useless striving to keep Grapes beneath a leaky roof, as a single drop 
of water getting inside a bunch of Grapes is sufficient to spoil it, though 
the decay may be only a berry, which, being in the interior, is nob 
detected until the disaster is so spread as to spoil the bunch. Remove- 
all leaves as they become ripe, affording only sufficient fire heat to exclude 
frost, keeping at 40° to 45°, and close the house in damp weather, and 
seeking to insure a dry, cool, and equable temperature. 
Strawberries in Put.?.—The plants introduced to the vinery, Peach, 
or other forcing house, should have the drainage scrutinised, making- 
sure that it is free, and the loose surface soil removed, and a top-dressing- 
given of dried cowdung or horse-droppings rubbed fine with the hands 
or through a sieve, adding about a twelfth part of steamed bone-meal,, 
or some other approved fertiliser, well incorporated, then watering it 
with a rose-watering pot, so as to bring it into a moist state, for if 
placed on dry it washes off in watering the plants. The pots may then 
be placed in position after removing any decayed leaves, making sure- 
that there is no deficiency of water at the roots, for the old leaves will 
not show signs of a deficiency of water until the soil is very much too- 
dry for healthy root action, therefore rap the pots; a practised hand 
will readily detect by the sound which plants are needing water. Noble,. 
La Grosse Sucrfie, and Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury are good varieties 
for early forcing. 
CtrcuMBEKS. —Winter plants must not be allowed to carry too- 
much fruit. Unless they are extra strong remove two-thirds at least, 
removing also the male blossoms and tendrils with any superfluous 
shoots and bad leaves, but do not stop the growing points over¬ 
much for the next few weeks, affording water moderately—a supply 
twice a week will suffice. Cucumber plants growing in pots or boxes 
will require water oftener, with liquid manure occasionally. A night 
temperature of 65° to 70°, falling to 60° in severe weather, 70° to 75° by 
day, advancing to 80° or 85° with sun, will be suitable. The plants will 
require moderate earthing at the roots from time to time, taking care 
that the soil has been previously warmed, press it firmly, but not hard. 
The bottom heat should be kept steady at about 80°. Atmospheric- 
moisture will require to be moderate, damping only on bright mornings 
or early in the afternoon. If a night covering be afforded of mats or 
frigi domo to the glass it will be highly advantageous, but it must not 
remain on by day to the exclusion of light, every possible ray of which 
the plants must have. Remove old foliage and exhausted growths from- 
the autumn fruiters, but do not overstop the growing points, avoiding¬ 
overcrowding and especially overcropping. Fertilise the flowers during 
a continuance of dull sunless weather. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Steffhanotis fioribunda. —Plants that have been pruned, cleaned, and' 
had a complete season of rest may now be started into growth. A soak¬ 
ing of tepid water should be given, and the temperature raised to 60 . 
During the early part of the day syringe lightly, unless plants are- 
beneath that would be injured by water falling upon them. In this- 
case the moisture of the atmosphere must suffice. If there is any mealy 
bug on the plants syringe thoroughly with petroleum and water of the 
strength advised a few weeks ago. It is much easier to destroy bug now 
than after the plants commence growth. Plants in pots that are full of 
roots should have a top-dressing of decayed manure. Those at rest 
must be kept moderately dry at their roots, and will be perfectly safe 
in a temperature of 50°. 
Medinilla magnifica. —Where the wood has been thoroughly ripened 
by exposure to full sunshine during August and September the plants 
may be removed to the same temperature as advised for Stephanotis- 
at rest. To flower them well it is necessary they have complete 
rest. Thrips is the greatest enemy this plant has to contend against, 
and should be destroyed by syringing the plant over a tank at intervals 
of a fortnight with a solution of tobacco water. 
Gardenias. —These plants need watering with care, and strong- 
stimulants in their present stage of growth must not be used, as more- 
harm than good will result. If the flower buds have formed and com¬ 
menced swelling maintain a temperature of 65°. If starved, overfed, 
syringed with strong stimulants, or checked in any way the flower buds 
are likely to be deformed. Plants that are not yet showing their flower 
buds will be safe in a temperature 5° lower. Tepid water may be used 
for supplying to the roots and for syringing. 
Dracaenas. —The atmosphere of the structure in which these are- 
grown must not be kept too moist, or the points of the leaves that are 
highly coloured are very likely to damp. The temperature at night 
should range from 60° to 65°, according to the weather. Less water wili 
be needed at their roots. Plants that have been used for decoration in 
rooms and other positions, and have been damaged so that they are 
useless except for stock, should be kept perfectly dry to harden and 
ripen the root portion of their stems. When cut up green and soft they 
are liable to decay early in the season. If kept dry for a month they 
will be ready for cutting up and starting into growth in brisk heat early 
in the year. Plants that have been grown purposely for yielding stock 
may be gradually dried to harden them. 
Justicia flavicoma.— Where these p'ants have not been pushed for¬ 
ward place some of them in a temperature of 60°. They will be found 
very useful after many of the autumn flowering plants are over. The 
remainder of the stock will do for the present in any light structure- 
5° lower. 
Begonia manicata. —If grown in a cool house the flower stems are 
only just showing, but will push up rapidly in a temperature of 60°. 
