December 12 , 1889. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
503 
home-grown roots we have had spikes by the second week in 
November and from December onwards. 
The stock from which we are now obtaining our crowns for 
present forcing was secured from a few square yards dug up some 
f° ur years since in a corner of the kitchen garden, where it had, 
judging from the closely woven mass of roots and number of 
tightly packed crowns, been undisturbed for a number of years. 
All the best flowering buds were selected which, when introduced 
into heat during January, promptly produced strong spikes of 
bloom with fine healthy foliage, while imported roots under similar 
"treatment were almost destitute of leaves. A second selection was 
reserved for planting with the object of producing crowns for the 
'following year’s work ; these, placed on a south border in a rich soil 
in rows 6 inches apart, and some 2 inches clear of each other, made 
■strong plump flowering buds by the autumn. The remainder of the 
heap of roots was distributed in an open quarter of the garden in a 
somewhat similar manner, plenty of good rich manure being worked 
in as planting proceeded. Strong growth was the result, aud an 
•almost incredible stock of good flower crowns for forcing has 
now rewarded our efforts. 
The first were dug up towards the middle of October last year, 
•and after removing all lateral crowns that of course do not contain 
a flower bud, they were spread out behind a north wall with the 
object of inducing a premature rest ; in this we were assisted by a 
•3harp touch of frost, which so far from injuring them is, I am 
inclined to think, decidedly beneficial when they are wanted 
for extra early forcing. Of course care was taken to prevent 
them suffering from drought, as I am of opinion that this is some¬ 
times the cause of their not starting into growth so readily 
as they should, a opinion that is also shared by a market grower 
of my acquaintance, who speaks of the consignments of a firm 
*of home growers in the eastern counties that pack their roots 
in casks for travelling as being always reliable in starting 
vpromptly. 
• Unlike Mr. Frampton we do not consider turfy loam, leaf mould) 
and sand a necessary medium for placing the roots in, seeing that 
the existing roots remain persistently dormant, and not a single 
fresh feeder is emitted while being forced, a curious state of affairs 
that has probably escaped Mr. Frampton’s observation. Cocoa- 
nut fibre refuse is our favourite substance, and it appears to be 
specially adapted for this purpose; heat-retaining without fermenta¬ 
tion, antiseptic and moisture-holding, it constitutes a most useful 
^article for many purposes in the forcing house. 
The cavity over a hot water tank that is used for propagating is 
filled with about 6 inches of this material, and the crowns dis¬ 
tributed below over the bed, and about an inch below the surface. 
The whole receives a thorough drenching of tepid water, and the 
heat is turned on until the plunging thermometer registers at least 
95° or 100". Under the combined influence of this amount of heat 
.-and moisture, other things being equal, the spikes soon commence 
to push through, when the heat can be slightly reduced. Should 
pot plants be required the forwardest roots can be withdrawn and 
placed in a uniform manner in suitable sized clean pots, using some 
of the cocoa fibre by preference. For earliest supplies a few 
growth crowns should be included, which will prove useful in 
making up pot plants, or a root of Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum 
multiflorum) can be placed in some convenient corner of the 
forcing house to supply leaves of almost similar likeness to the 
•plant’s own, when such are desired to be used for cut purposes. 
'The association of the plant’s own foliage with its flowers should be 
managed if possible, as in my estimation much of the charm of the 
beautiful plant is lost when presented in its usual early forced 
'condition. 
Not having, as yet, had the opportunity of testing the merits of 
the Berlin variety when grown at home, T cannot say as to its 
adaptation for early forcing, but for that purpose through¬ 
out the spring months it has no equal, the variety under present 
cultivation being the common Dutch ; though smaller in spike and 
individual flowers, it is for general purposes of spray and button- 
’hole bouquet making none the less useful. 
We have at present the second roots in flower, from which I 
send a few spikes for your inspection. The first was not this year 
quite so successful as usual ; this we attribute to the unusually 
onild autumn and absence of autumn frost that is now considered 
almost necessary to prepare the crowns for early forcing. I should 
•be interested to know why Mr. Frampton prefers a substantial 
loam for their cultivation, as I generally find that the finest im¬ 
ported crowns appear as if they had been growing in a very sandy 
soil, and on this presumption we have always endeavoured to 
make the quarter in which we have planted as light as possible. 
More- over, I am of opinion that a light soil conduces to early 
ripening of the crowns, and the plants themselves with us cer¬ 
tainly flourish better in these quarters than in others when the 
soil is naturally of a most exceptionally substantial character.— 
M. Coombe. 
[The flowers in question, which were accompanied with leaves, 
were referred to on page 487 last week.] 
IMPROVING FRUIT TREES. 
Midwinter is not the best season to attempt the improvement 
of wayward fruit trees, but it is better to take them in hand even 
then than to allow them to go on producing poor crops of deformed 
and “ scabby ” fruits. The younger the tree the less difficult is it 
to bring it into a fruitful condition, and although very old fruit 
trees may be rejuvenated, there is doubtless a stage when the time 
for this is past. In the case of very old trees—referring here to 
Apples and Pears—the best plan is to cut over the head, and allow 
only a sufficient number of branches to grow as will form a good 
tree either in the open or on a wall. If good strong growths are 
made for a couple of seasons the roots may then be taken in hand ; 
though the mere removal of worn out branches and the production 
of young ones may and often does bring the tree into a fruitful 
condition, but this will not be lasting. Therefore it is as well to 
cause the trees to produce a new set of roots. 
If an Apple, and the main roots are numerous, one-half may be 
cut at 3 to 4 feet from the stem, and working underneath so as to 
cut all down-going roots. If the subsoil is bad it must be removed 
and good supplied, but where the soil is in fairly good condition 
it may be broken up and returned. Comparatively few gardeners 
have it in their power to add turf or loam, and where they can do 
so the time may be wanting. It is, therefore, well to know that 
good results follow from merely turning over the soil as above. If 
the roots are found to be few and large it may be safe to be content 
with the cutting to 3 feet from the stem of one such root, leaviag 
the cutting of more till another season. 
In the case of large Pear trees, especially those trained against 
walls, it is advisable to proceed with great caution ; and it will be 
found better to cut 3 yards or so from the stem, and not going 
more than halfway round the one season. If these cut roots pro¬ 
duce a good number of root-breaks the season following, and the 
foliage made be strong and healthy, then the succeeding year under¬ 
take the pruning of the other half ; this time, however, cutting 
much closer to the stem, say from 4 to 6 feet. But everything 
must depend on the condition of particular trees. Plums, Apricots, 
and Peaches it is best to cut quite round, 10 to 12 feet from the 
stem, and it the shoots are thickly placed and weakly the least 
promising of these should be cut out. These remarks apply of 
course to large trees. 
With regard to younger trees, say those of twenty years of age, 
which continue in an unfruitful condition, the mere cutting back of 
half the roots to 3 feet from the stem in the case of Apples, and to 
6 feet in the case of Pears, may bring the tree into bearing. How¬ 
ever, if canker is present, it may be as well to cut back the stem and 
not root-prune untd after two or three years have elapsed, when 
both canker and unfruitfulness will disappear. The next year 
should see the root-pruning process completed. Some seasons it 
will be advisable not only to cut back the main roots previously 
left uncut, but also to cut a little further out from the stem round 
the first cut portion. This will hasten fruit-bearing very much. 
With regard to young trees I find it necessary to continue root- 
pruning. The trees may be left for a few seasons, but nothing is 
gained in any way, as the fruit deteriorates and the check is of 
course greater than when an annual or biennial cutting i ound takes 
place. If the shoots are kept fairly thinned there will be no gross 
wood made, but strong firm and freely studded with buds. Plums 
are especially liable to make a few very strong growths. I have 
seen these left alone, pinched, or broken clean off, or cut back ; 
but neither of these—some good and some bad—practices is to be 
compared with attention to the roots, both as a check and as a 
hindrance to this habit. 
It must be pointed out, however, that root-pruning in whatever 
form can never be perfectly successful unless other cultural points 
are at the same time remedied. For instance, pruning may le 
required to be modified. Some seasons the knife may hardly be 
needed at all, in others pruning may be a necessity. It is all a 
matter of judgment. Then an important matter too often 
neglected lies in allowing trees to carry too heavy crops. I find 
comparatively few people with whom I come in contact thin hardy 
fruits. Now it is good paying practice to do so, and in the case 
of old trees newly root-pruned which may set a crop of fruit, it is 
of the first importance that a very small crop should be left not to 
burden the tree. It may be said, however, that a heavy mulching 
of dung will carry the tree through. That I believe to be an 
absolute mistake. Dung as a fruit producer is a fallacy, and the 
