IX. 
THE SEA AND THE DESERT. 
The light-house lamps were still burning, though now 
with a silvery lustre, when I rose to see the sun come 
out of the Ocean ; for he still rose eastward of us ; but I 
was convinced that he must have come out of a dry bed 
beyond that stream, though he seemed to come out of the 
water. 
“ The sun once more touched the fields, 
Mounting to heaven from the fair flowing 
Deep-running Ocean.” 
Now we saw countless sails of mackerel fishers abroad 
on the deep, one fieet in the north just pouring round the 
Cape, another standing down toward Chatham, and our 
host’s son went off to join some lagging member of the 
first which had not yet left the Bay. 
Before we left the light-house we were obliged to 
anoint our shoes faithfully with tallow, for walking on the 
beach, in the salt water and the sand, had turned them 
red and crisp. To counterbalance this, I have remarked 
that the sea-shore, even where muddy, as it is not here, is 
singularly clean; for notwithstanding the spattering of the 
water and mud and squirting of the clams while walking 
to and from the boat, your best black pants retain no 
stain nor dirt, such as they would acquire from walking 
in the country. 
