■January 3, IP89. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
15 
is of that character. Every hill or rising ground in such a case that is 
planted will heighten the effect and give variety and beauty to the 
scene. With respect to their 
FORM, 
It has to be observed that it should always be governed by the effect 
desired by the contour and elevation of the ground to be planted, and 
by the character of adjacent objects. The taste of the designer also will 
bear its part in the development of form, but the result will be good or 
bad in proportion as it is guided by the foregoing considerations. Form 
may be employed to conceal disagreeable objects, but should never be 
allowed to interfere with the view of those that are beautiful or 
interesting. Where space is limited, and an objectionable building is to 
be concealed from view, a skilfully designed outline may do more to 
attain the object than mere breadth of screen. In limited areas, also, 
the judicious use of form will tend to enlarge the idea of space. A solid 
breadth of plantation of any given outline is not in point of effect 
necessarily more pleasing than would be the same area planted in 
detached clumps or groups so disposed as a whole as to give the same 
general outline from any point of view. For instance, any irregular 
outline of considerable length and breadth on comparatively leve ground 
may be as effectively produced by a series of detached clumps or groups 
as by planting the whole area solid. The interest and variety of 
feature will be greater in such a case, while the outline desired will be 
attained. Space also will be economised, as the glades between the 
groups will be available for other purposes. But it is only on level or 
comparatively level ground that this practice in manipulating outlines 
can be adopted with any advantage. On the hillside where the entire 
profile of a plantation is viewed from the lower ground, or again when 
placed in a valley where it is seen from above, the grandest effect is 
produced by planting in the solid, in relation to the situation and the 
form of ornamental plantations. 
THE KIND AND DISPOSITION OF THE TREES 
Are important considerations. All that can be said on these points 
here is that the form or natural habits of the trees employed wi 1 
materially influence the effect of any design. Perhaps it is the most 
difficult task of the ornamental planter to perceive clearly the ultimate 
effect of full-grown trees of any kind in a given situation, especially in 
the case of extensive scenes. But there are certain rules of taste which 
cannot be infringed without outraging harmony in landscape scenery in 
detail.. It flat districts, what can be more gloomy and monotonous than 
extensive masses of Pines or Firs ? Yet on a hillside where they pass 
under the influence of every flitting change of light and shadow, throw 
their spiral or tabulated forms up in relief against a rugged rocky back¬ 
ground, or outline themselves in the sky-line, they are charming. They 
are at home amidst such surroundings, and in perfect harmony with the 
6cene, in masses of any extent; but in low or flat situations they should 
be sparingly used, if dull monotony is to be avoided. In such situa¬ 
tions they may be introduced with excellent effect in groups or singly, 
so placed as to produce contrast and variety. Round-headecl trees, such 
as the Ash, Oak, Elm, Lime, &c., are more characteristic and enlivening 
objects for situations in which there is little natural variation of 
surface. Pines and Firs may properly be used in combination with 
them, but always in subordinate proportion.— {North British Agricul¬ 
turist). 
so far as anything like free growth is concerned, and I strongly 
recommend the Butcher’s Broom above everything else. 
As a rule soil under trees is poor, as the roots consume every¬ 
thing they can lay hold of, and to plant in very poor material 
would not give the plants a chance of establishing themselves, 
and as a good start is very important a quantity of rich soil or 
manure should be put near the roots of all that is planted. Where 
planting has been done for some years, and the undergrowth is 
assuming a starved appearance owing to the poorness of the soil, a 
good surface dressing of any rough manure would put fresh life 
into them. This should have attention at once. — J. Muir, Maryam. 
FERNS IN WINTER. 
The majority of Ferns are evergreen, and should be as attrac¬ 
tive in winter as at any other season, but from various causes they 
frequently fail to be so. The fronds are most tender in the early 
spring and summer when newly formed, and as they mature iu 
autumn it is in this condition they should remain until the follow¬ 
ing spring. They are, however, very apt to suffer from damp 
about midwinter ; in fact, this is their greatest enemy, as when 
once the fronds are hardened a low temperature will not affect 
them to any extent, but damp will destroy them in all tempera¬ 
tures, high and low, the latter especially. Cold currents of air 
passing directly against them will make them appear lusty, but 
damp will blacken them so much as to render them useless for 
decorative purposes ; and to keep Ferns well in winter great atten¬ 
tion must be given to avoid superfluous moisture coming in contact 
with them. Many are so much accustomed to apply moisture in 
abundance to their Ferns in summer that to withhold it to a great 
extent now may be a practice not readily understood, but the 
season has gone from one extreme to the other, and this ought to 
account for the difference in treatment. I am of opinion that 
many plant houses are kept too damp in winter, and this is no 
doubt the reason why so many plants appear sickly in spring ; 
whereas in a dry atmosphere they will retain all their substance, 
and in the case of Ferns in particular the utmost efforts should be 
made to keep the fronds dry. I take my clue for this advice from 
a large cool house we possess. So long as the atmosphere of this 
can be kept dry the plants retain their health and vigour admirably, 
but if once damp takes possession of the occupants it leaves a 
blemish from which they are not freed for weeks and months. 
But while Ferns are benefited by having their fronds in a mode¬ 
rately dry atmosphere they will not on any account bear drying at 
the roots, and to keep them in the best of health the soil should 
invariably be kept in a moist condition. As growth is inactive now 
they do not require very liberal supplies of moisture at the roots, 
unless the pots are placed near some excessive heat ; but I attach 
the utmost importance to avoiding drying them even once or 
saturating the soil at this season.—M. M. 
PLANTING UNDER TREES. 
I. have been looking through a list which is sent to me annually, 
and in it I find several dozens of shrubs and creepers recommended 
for planting under tall trees, but should any of your readers be 
guided by these and plant them with the object of having an 
interesting display I fear they will meet with many disappoint¬ 
ments. The list I refer to may include those which exist under 
trees, but a mere existence will not do, and what is wanted is a 
class which will grow freely in such a position. When this is con¬ 
sidered the stock is very much reduced, as plants which luxuriate 
Under the drip and shade of others are really very few. One of the 
most successful cases of planting under trees I know of is to be 
seen in the Royal Gardens, Kew. Here many of the parts 
where the grass has refused to grow is planted with strong¬ 
growing Ivy, and the result is a dense mass of perpetual deep 
green foliage. I therefore include Ivy as a good plant to place 
under trees, but shy-growing variegated sorts should not be in¬ 
troduced. 
The Butcher’s Broom (Ruscus aculeatus) is one of the best 
of all plants under trees. I never knew it to fail. It grows 
wild in some parts of Glamorganshire, and may be bought in 
quantity at a cheap rate from a nursery. It has a narrow dark 
green leaf, grows dense, and attains a height of about 20 inches or 
2 feet. I place this at the top of the list of plants for the 
shaded positions. 
Mahonia Aquifolia succeeds fairly well, and may be planted 
where the shade is not too dense. St. John’s Wort makes a good 
margin plant, and the English Yew may also be introduced, but it 
is a mistake to recommend Box, Rhododendrons, Laurel, Holly, 
Aucubas, &c., to plant under trees, as they will only prove a failure 
FRUIT FORDING. 
Vines. —Early Rouses .—Great care will now be required, in ven¬ 
tilating, so as not to admit draughts of cold air, which injure the 
foliage, causing it to become stunted, while a confined atmosphere 
causes it to become thin in texture, to be attacked by red spiderlater on, 
with great liability to be scorched. Disbud and tie down the shoots 
before they touch the glass, being careful not to bring them down too 
abruptly or to tie too tightly. Do not confine stopping to any given 
number of joints beyond the bunch, but extend it so that an ample and 
even supply of foliage will be insured fully exposed to light. Re¬ 
move all superfluous bunches, overcropping and overcrowding the 
foliage being most adverse to satisfactory results. When the flowers 
open maintain a day and night temperature of 70° to 75°, but with a 
decline of 5° through the night, and a rather drier atmosphere. Do 
not allow the heat to decline in fermenting beds about Vines in pots, 
nor of the ridges of such in houses, but keep a good heap of Oak 
leaves and stable litter in the reserve ground, to admit of a supply 
being obtained as required. 
Rouses to Afford Ripe Grapes in, June .—The Vines must be 
started at once. Roots outside have been protected with a good thick¬ 
ness of dry litter or fern, with tarpaulin, wood shutters, or lights to 
throw off rain and snow, and have secured to them a much higher tem¬ 
perature than if there had been not such protection, therefore ferment- 
