26 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 188 
swell, then they are checked, and much injury follows. Borders 
formed of heavy soil made very firm suffer less than those of a 
light character, but none is exempt, and drying should be avoided 
in all cases; indeed, if the borders of vineries and Peach houses 
were kept thoroughly watered all the winter, we should hear less of 
Tines breaking badly into growth and other failures, and if liquid 
manure can be supplied to them, it may be given with much advan¬ 
tage at the present time. So long as we know our borders are well 
watered we do not feel anxious should our trees be induced to start 
simewhat prematurely, as roots that are kept plump and healthy all 
the winter will o lercome many trials to which those dried up would 
.succumb.—-A Kitchen Gardener. 
NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY. 
January 9th and 10th. 
The idea of uniting the attractions of a conference of cultivators 
•with the January show of the above Society was a good one, as that 
Exhibition is usually the smallest of the three annual exhibitions held 
in the Royal Aquarium, Westminster. The Show itself was not a large 
-one, but the following were the leading features. 
Chrysanthemums were fairly represented, two stands being entered 
in the class for the best collection of cut blooms. Mr. J. Brown, 
gardener to Mrs. Waterlow, Reigate, was first, and Mr. Taylor, gardener 
to Sir John Lubbock, Bart., M.P., Farnborough, Kent, was second. 
There were several good stands of twenty-four blooms, the prizewinners 
being Mr. Kipling, Knebworth Gardens, who was first, Mr. R. Falconer 
Jameson, Hull, second, and Mr. Sullivan, Roehampton, third. With 
twelve blooms, Mr. Kipling, Miss Debenham, and Mr. Horsefield were 
the prizewinners. In other classes for Chrysanthemums Messrs. Brown, 
Phillips, Cannell, Kipling, Gilbert, Taylor, and Drover were successful. 
Primulas were admirably shown by Messrs. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, 
in many varieties. Cyclamens also occupied much space, Mr. J. May, 
'Twickenham, Mr. J. Odell, Hillingdon, contributing well grown plants. 
Amateur exhibits of Primulas comprised excellent collections from 
Mr. A. Carter, Ewell, and Mr. Newell, Wimbledon ; Cyclamens being 
shown by Mr. Phillips, Slough, Mr. D. White, Isleworth, and Mr. A. 
Carter. Large groups of fine foliage plants were also exhibited. 
A meeting of the Floral Committee was held at 12.30, when certifi¬ 
cates were awarded for Primulas Emperor Improved, Beauty and 
Eclipse from Messrs. Cannell & Sons ; and Chrysanthemum Jersey 
Nugget from Mr. Elliot was commended. 
As already announced the Sub-Committee—Messrs. Castle, Gordon, 
and Payne—entrusted with the arrangements for the Conference, 
decided upon 5 p.m. as the opening hour, and one of the galleries was 
Pound to be the most convenient place for the gathering. The following 
papers were contributed—namely, “ Manures for Chrysanthemums,” by 
Mr. E. Molyneux ; “ Damping in Chrysanthemum Blooms,” by Mr. C. 
Gibson ; “ Midwinter Chrysanthemums,” by Mr. Kipling ; and “ Chrys¬ 
anthemum Sports,” by Mr. N. Davis, of which the three first appear lin 
Phis issue, but the last with the discussion we are reluctantly com¬ 
pelled to reserve until next week. 
MANURES FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
JA paper read by Mr. E. Molyneux, Swuimore Park Gardens, Bishops Waltham, at the 
National Society’s Conference.] 
This is a subject of a very complex nature, as it is difficult, if not 
impossible, to lay down rules of guidance that will be equally appli¬ 
cable for all districts. The best manures to apply to produce the 
highest results in Chrysanthemum culture can only be obtained by a 
•wide series of experiments conducted by growers in various parts of the 
country using the same kinds of manures each in the same manner, 
noting their effects at different stages of the growth of the plants, and 
reporting the actual results at the conclusion of the season. It would 
then be seen how far each kind of manure was suitable for the soil in 
the different localities, as much necessarily depends upon the natural 
soil in determining how best to increase its fertility by adding those con¬ 
stituents which it lacks. At the outset I may say that I do not mean 
to treat the subject of manures in a scientific manner, but to detail facts 
■as they have come under my notice in my own experience, with the 
^addition of the opinions of some of our leading growers. 
Fortunately for Chrysanthemum growers prepared manures are 
numerous and easily applied, while many are inexpensive. In eonversa- 
-iion with different cultivators of the Autumn Queen in various parts of 
the country I have noted an almost entire absence of reserve in discussing 
this matter. The days of supposed “ secrets ” are over, and I am pleased 
■to say that I have found men generally willing to assist each other by 
giving their opinions freely on the merits or demerits of any particular 
kind or manures that have been tried. Mr. Garnett makes a suggestion 
that might prove of much service to growers :—That the National 
Chrysanthemum Society procure samples of wood from plants which 
have produced the best blooms in all the sections, in, say a dozen 
localities widely spread. By special analysis of each sample of the 
growth we should get at some basis as to the best manure to apply to 
the soil to produce the best results in culture. Chrysanthemums, for 
whatever purpose they are cultivated, have such a short season of growth 
that they must have all the support that can be usefully appropriated 
by them, and before the roots have exhausted the nutriment contained 
in the soil stimulants must be afforded, or a check will be received by 
the plants. What best to give and how best to apply it is what we all 
desire to know, and to that end we are searching for information. 
Manure for mixing with the soil is the first consideration, as this is 
commencing at the foundation, so to speak ; the superstructure or full 
development of the plant to its utmost capacity is an after consideration, 
and perhaps the more important. Ammoniacal manures promote quick 
growth, but their excessive use must be avoided, in a wet season espe¬ 
cially. The chief of these are sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda. 
Phosphatic manures (bones in different forms) contribute to firmness. 
Natural soil varies so much that a knowledge of its constitution is 
necessary to enable the cultivator to know what ingredient to add 
that the Chrysanthemum requires for its full development. Loam, as 
it is called, composed of the top spit of pasture, is considered to be 
the best medium for the roots. The constitution of this is the all- 
important point to study. For instance, to soil that is of a light or 
sandy nature, additions should be made which will not be needed in 
soil of a heavier nature, and consequently containing less sand or other 
lightening matter. Crushed oyster shells are considered by some bene¬ 
ficial to a light sandy soil, containing as they do carbonate of lime, this 
assisting in the maturation of the wood. Ground bones are beneficial 
to the plants when used with the soil in potting, especially in light 
soils, but in the case of soil of a close retentive nature they should not 
be used so freely, as they have a tendency to clog the soil and create 
pale sickly looking foliage, which is not the kind to be desired. This is 
especially noticeable in wet seasons. Soil which is of a heavy nature, 
in which the fibrous parts quickly decay, does not require so much 
manure mixed with it ; first, because it is not needed in the early stages, 
and, later, is apt to bind the parts more closely together. Soil of this 
nature is much worse to deal with than that lighter in character, as 
stimulants cannot be given nearly so freely as where the soil is more 
porous. Soil that is liable to “run together ” when the fibre decays 
should have more lightening materials added, such as charcoal, wood 
ashes, and old mortar ; the two former are especially good for this 
purpose. 
Natural manures are no doubt of great service when used in a proper 
manner. The best for mixing with soil of any kind is horse droppings, 
as they contain ammonia. They should be prepared as if for a 
Mushroom bed ; in this manner the manure is sweetened while much of 
the ammonia is retained. At the final potting horse manure should be 
used in the proportion of two parts to four of light soil, and one part to 
three of heavy loam. Cow manure is not good for mixing with the soil 
on account of its pasty nature when fresh, and when decayed the 
qualities have departed. Some use it fresh mixed with soil for top¬ 
dressing the plants, but where the loam is stiff I think cow manure too 
heavy also, and liable to keep the soil cold. Soot is a valuable manure 
in the growth of Chrysanthemums, either for mixing with the soil or for 
using in a liquid state. When used with the soil in potting it should be 
done in a cautious manner, as too much is liable to injure the roots. A 
6-inch potful to 4 bushels of soil is a safe quantity to mix with any kind 
of soil. 
Artificial manures are now largely used by Chrysanthemum growers 
owing to the easy manner in which they can be applied; the convenience 
in which they can be obtained by those persons who have not the 
opportunities to obtain animal manures ; and lastly, for the reason that 
they are so efficacious. Thomson’s Vine and plant manure is one 
deserving notice, possessing qualities well suited t<5 the growth of these 
plants. In potting the plants to 1 peck of soil we add one 44-inch potful 
of manure. For top-dressing the plants during August this manure is 
excellent, encouraging free root-action on the surface of the soil. For 
stimulating during the summer, especially in wet weather when it is not 
possible to give liquid manure, this manure is good—one teaspoonful to 
a 10-inch pot, say once a fortnight. Mr. McKenzie, Linton Park, and 
Mr. Doughty speak very highly of this manure. Beeson’s is another of 
the artificial manures largely employed in the growth of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums ; it creates good firm growth without being too gross, preserving a 
