January 10,1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
29 
growths, and thus delay the production of the crown bud, which practice 
I find weakens the plant too much, and the blooms produced by it are 
poor. The second method is to place the plants in such a position 
through the summer that the ripening of the wood is delayed, and the 
pinching-back of the shoots be reduced. 
It is well known that Chrysanthemums which are placed where 
•exposed to the sun’s rays throughout the day have the maturing process 
of the wood begun and finished early, and as a consequence of this the 
early formation of the crown bud takes place ; it follows then that if 
plants are placed in such a position as to have less direct sunlight on 
them through the day the ripening process will not begin so early, and 
will proceed more slowly. As a result the production of the crown bud 
is greatly retarded; indeed, it shows itself at a much later date, which 
is exactly the result desired in growing them for late blooming. My 
plants occupy a position on the north-east side of a Laurel hedge, but 
are not overshadowed by it. They have the benefit of the morning sun 
up to ten o’clock, when, through the intervening of some trees, it does 
not shine on them again till three o’clock in the afternoon. In this 
position they grow slowly, the wood ripens late, but sufficiently to 
ensure us a good crop of flowers. I may here state that a partly shaded 
position might not be suitable in very late or northerly localities ; nor 
is it possible by this practice to have huge, or even very large blooms. 
But very large blooms are not wanted at the season of the year to which 
I am referring ; smaller blooms, or trusses of blooms, are more service¬ 
able for the various purposes of decoration, and also for personal adorn¬ 
ment. They are certainly more appreciated by a majority of those who 
love the Chrysanthemum. In my case cut bloom is the principal 
requirement, and consequently but little attention is paid to the training 
of the plants, my object being to have good strong bushes with stout 
■shoots, from nine to twelve to a plant, and containing plenty of stored- 
up reserve force. Shoots of this description will give a second crop of 
side flowers after the first or leading blooms have been cut. 
The plants which are grown principally to cut from are stopped only 
once—namely, at the second potting, and those intended for pot or 
specimen plants are topped three times, the final topping taking place 
in the last week in July. 
The plants are carefully attended to as regards watering, tying, &c., 
but very little liquid manure is given them. If satisfactory progress is 
made, the crown buds will begin to show at the end of September, but 
principally through October. These buds I retain on one-half of the 
plants, while on the other half they are rubbed out, and the terminal 
bud selected later on instead, for the purpose of keeping up a succession 
■of bloom. The plants are left outside to as late a date as is considered 
safe. They are then taken in and arranged in an unheated Peach house, 
from which the frost is excluded by two paraffin stoves. In this house 
they continue their growth and swell their buds very slowly, the terminal 
buds appearing at the end of November and through December. About 
the end of November we begin to draft the plants as required to a 
very light and airy vinery, where, with the asssistance of a little 
artificial heat and supplies of liquid manure, the flowers gradually 
expand. 
As fast as the blooms are cut from each set, the flower stems are 
slightly shortened, and the plants are encouraged to make side breaks 
or shoots, which some varieties do very freely, especially those with not 
over-ripened wood. These side growths give us a goodly supply of small 
Sowers through March and April. It was from the side and basal 
shoots of cut-back plants that I obtained a box of flowers and sent them 
to my friend Mr. Holmes on the 20th of April last. My notes show 
that the last blooms were cut on the 20th of May, and at that date we 
had blooming in pots, under glass, the early Pompons, St. Mary, La 
Petite Marie, and Nanum, of which varieties we usually pot a good 
stock in the early autumn to propagate from for summer display. These 
Pompons carried on the blooming period, and shook hands, as it were, 
with similar kinds which bloome 1 with us outdoors on June 20th. Such 
Was the manner in which I was enabled to wreath the year with Chrys¬ 
anthemum blooms. 
With reference to the varieties which are best for growing for late 
blooming, I would say that there are sorts which are naturally late to 
bloom, and are invaluable for the purpose. But there are a few of the 
mid-season varieties, which, as I have proved, cannot be excelled by any, 
especially for giving second crop flowers. They all, or mostly a’l, 
belong to the Japanese section. I have found very few of the incurved 
kinds worth the time and labour spent on them for giving late blooms. 
They are not free enough, the blooms opening indifferently, and do not 
keep well ; at least, such is my experience of them. Of the Japanese 
Varieties I have found the following varieties the best Belle Paule, 
Kasmpfer, Etoile du Midi, Ethel, Mrs. C. Carey, Ceres, Mdlle. Cabrol, 
Gloriosum, Cry Kang, Comtesse de Beauregarde, Meg Merrilies, and its 
sports Ralph Brocklebank and Countess of Lytton, the last-named 
sport having originated with myself. Mr. D. B. Chapman and W. G. 
Drover are also proving very late, but not over-free in blooming. For 
pot specimens I find the best to be Pere Dolaux, Yirginale, Miss Mar¬ 
garet, Snowdrop, Golden Gem, and Boule de Neige. The two last-named 
cannot be surpassed by any that I know for late pot work. There may 
be others quite as good for late blooming, and if there are I hope those 
who have grown them will, in the course of the discussion, give us their 
names. 
KALANCIIOE C ARNE A. 
At the first meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society last year (Jan. 
11th, 1888) Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons ware awarded a first-class certificate 
for plants of a new and delicately coloured Kalanchoe, which many 
thought would prove of decorative value; this opinion has been confirmed 
by a year’s experience, and it is evidently a useful addition to our list of 
winter flowering occupants of conservatories. It is a recent introduc¬ 
tion from South Africa, and will succeed under similar treatment to 
that afforded Kalosanthes, Crassulas, and similar succulent plants. The 
plants have fleshy elliptical crenated leaves, and stems rising to the 
height of 18 inches or 2 feet, terminating in compact heads of wax-like 
pink fragrant flowers, which remain on the plant for a considerable 
time. The flowers are produced during December, January, and 
February, a time when they can be most appreciated. The illustration 
(fig. 5) was prepared from a small specimen sent us a few days ago by 
Messrs. Veitch, and it fairly indicates the floral characters. 
