January 10, 18-9. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
33 
not be in a hurry in disbudding, but any strong shoots of the previous 
year having a tendency to further growth in advance of the others may 
be commenced with first, removing the growth on the under side of the 
shoots, also on the upper, then reduce the side growths to the number re¬ 
quired— i.c., one from as near the base as possible to supplant that now 
fruiting, and another or more above or on a level with the fruit, to be 
pinched at a few points of growth, or if the shoot be an extension, leave 
growths at about every 15 or 18 inches to form the bearing shoots of 
next season, continuing those with the leader intact. 
Disbudding must, however, not be neglected— i.e., delayed unduly, 
but began as soon as the shoots can well be laid hold of, and continued 
at short intervals until no more shoots are left than will be necessary 
for furnishing the wood of the ensuing season. See that the inside 
borders are duly supplied with water, and that the roots outside are 
well protected from cold and wet with litter or other dry material. 
After the fruits are set on individual trees or the whole, an occasional 
syringing will be useful in assisting the trees to cast the remains of the 
blossoms, but avoid heavy syringings. which have a tendency to weaken 
the trees, besides inducing an enfeebled growth in the shoots. 
Second Early House. —In the house intended to afford ripe fruit in 
late May or early June with the older varieties, but with such varieties 
as Alexander a month earlier, and with Hale’s Early to follow, two of 
the very best early Peaches for an early house, and which has been 
closed as advised, employ fire heat only to maintain a day temperature 
of 50°, raising it early, or by 8 to 8.30 A.M., to insure the development of 
the blossom with light, providing an increase of ventilation above 55°, 
avoiding cold currents, and allowing an advance of 5° to 10° from sun heat, 
closing early so as to husband the sun heat. A night temperature of 10° to 
45° is sufficient until the blossoms are well advanced for expansion, 
when it should be gradually raised to 50°. Syringe the trees until the 
flowers show the anthers, when damping the paths will be sufficient, and 
a little air should be admitted constantly, with a gentle warmth in the 
pipes. When the pollen becomes ripe artificial impregnation may be 
resorted to. If water is wanted give a thorough supply, affording 
liquid manure in a tepid state to weakly trees. Trees having a super¬ 
abundance of flowers should have those on the under or back side of the 
trellis removed by drawing the hand downwards. 
Succession Houses. —Keep these as cool as possible by free ventila¬ 
tion, and any trees swelling their buds faster than desired may be 
shaded on fine days, but after the buds are advanced so that the anthers 
are showing there is danger, and fire heat is necessary to exclude frost. 
The house to be started at the advent of February may now be closed, 
furnishing needful supplies of water, only employing a little fire heat, 
and not allowing the temperature to exceed 50° without full ventila¬ 
tion. 
Late Houses. —All the trees in late houses must be pruned and 
dressed, the houses being thoroughly cleansed, the trees secured to the 
trellis, ventilating freely, and the house kept as cool as possible. If the 
borders require renewing with fresh loam it may now be done, but is 
preferably performed just before the fall of the leaf. Remove the old 
soil from between the large roots, being careful not to injure the fibres, 
and work the soil in amongst the roots, not covering them deeper than 
3 or 4 inches with fresh loam, and if of a calcareous nature all the 
better, treading or ramming it firmly. If necessary give a good supply 
of water, as dryness at the roots, even when the trees are at rest, will 
cause the buds to fall. 
Strawberries in Pots. —Do not push the plants too rapidly in severe 
weather ; 50° to 55° will be sufficient at night for those that were started 
last month, and 60° to 65° by day, but it is always well to err on the safe 
side, therefore 5° less is advisable in the absence of sun and the weather 
being cold. More plants should be introduced to shelves in Peach houses 
or vineries started about this time. Remove the drainage if necessary, 
the surface of the soil being freed of moss or other matter, and the pots 
washed. A surface dressing may be given of rich material, such 
as a pinch of some approved artificial manure, turning the surface 
lightly. Some fine manure mixed with an admixture of bonemeal and 
soot—a quart each to a bushel of manure and well incorporated—will 
prove advantageous, and a great encourager of surface roots. Suitable 
varieties for introducing now are La Grosse Sucree, Vicomtesse Heri- 
cart de Thury, Sir Harry, Sir Joseph Paxton, and President. Noble is 
an admirable variety for forcing, swelling and finishing well. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
The Stove. —If this structure has not been cleaned since September 
or the following month attend to it now. Wash the glass and woodwork, 
and limewash the walls if they need it. Clean the plants also in 
readiness for the time when a good number will require repotting. The 
gravel or other material on the stages should be removed after the 
plants have been cleaned, and fresh supplied. It is a mistake to delay 
the cleaning of the house or plants until they need repotting and start¬ 
ing again into growth. Nothing proves so detrimental to the early 
growth of plants as having to disturb them by these operations after 
potting has been done. 
Flower Pots and Crocks. —Wash all these in readiness for use. It is 
bad management to have such work to do when they are wanted. The 
best method is to wash them as they are emptied, and before they are 
stored away. Clean crocks for drainage is equally as important as clean 
pots. After washing sort them into sizes ready for use by passing them 
through different sized sieves. If these are sorted into about half a 
dozen different sizes they will be suitable for all pots. Large pieces for 
the base must be passed through the hand, and in the preparation of 
these smaller sizes will be produced. Prepare plenty of the smallest 
size for surfacing. It is surprising how quickly pots are drained when 
the crocks are in different sizes ready for use. Charcoal should also be 
broken and sorted in suitable sizes ready for use. 
Labelling Plants .—Go through the various houses, and supply fresh 
labels where necessary. This work is often done as potting proceeds, but 
considerably less requires immediate attention now than at that period 
of the year. It is surprising how quickly the ordinary work of spring 
proceeds when such operations as can be performed have been carried 
out. 
Stakes and Tying Material .—Procure the material needed for tying 
during the season. Those that have had charge of places for a year will 
know exactly the amount they will require. If raffia is used be careful 
to keep it in a dry place. If allowed to remain in a damp place it will 
soon become so decayed as to be useless. Sort stakes, and tie them in 
bundles of different sizes. For years we have been in the habit of 
splitting bamboo :canes for all the small stakes that are needed for 
Mignonette, bulbs, Achimenes, and similar plants. 
Sand, Moss, and Manures .—See that the stock of sand in hand is 
adequate for the requirements of the early part of the season ; if not, 
the necessary quantity for the season should be ordered at once. The 
supply of moss for potting Orchids and top-dressing should be secured, 
so that it can be sorted as opportunities offer. The coarse will prove 
useful for placing over the drainage of stove and other plants, that 
suitable for mixing in the compost for Orchids being stored in a damp 
shed, while the heads and green portions for the surface may be placed 
in pans and lightly watered occasionally to keep it perfectly fresh. 
This will do well in any convenient place in a cool house. Procure 
bonemeal, quarter and half-inch bones according to requirements, as 
well as artificial manures that may be needed for feeding purposes. 
Cow and other decayed manures that have been stocked since the 
autumn may be passed through a half-inch sieve. If sufficient has not 
been stored under cover get in what may be required at once. 
Noils.—Peat should be broken by the hand in readiness for various 
purposes. Select the most fibrous for Orchids, and shake out of it all 
the soil, which will be useful for small Ferns and a variety of plants in 
a young state. All pieces of wood and the strong rhizomes of Ferns 
should be picked out. For Heaths, Azaleas, and other hard wooded 
plants, that of the hardest nature should be selected. This may be 
used as broken up. The least fibry portions may be reserved for Ferns. 
A good stock of loam should be under cover, and quantities may be 
broken ready for use. For choice plants, prepare a good heap by taking 
out the soil, which will be useful for mixing up for cuttings, seeds, and 
small plants. Prepare leaf mould by passing a good portion through a 
quarter and half-inch sieves. A good heap in the rough should also be 
under cover, for in this condition it will be useful. 
SIZE OF HIYE3. 
Would you kindly allow me to put a few points before your able 
correspondent, “ Lanarkshire Bee-keeper,” on the size of hives, which 
might interest others as well ? Writing on December 13th, “ L. B. K.” 
impresses bee-keepers of the importance of keeping their hives in full 
strength, and to accomplish this full sized hives must be used. Unfor¬ 
tunately he leaves us without any idea what to him constitutes a full 
sized hive. In giving the information craved I might suggest a simple 
sketch, with measurements, might be made use of, leaving to each their 
own mode of carrying out details. Swarms from full sized hives he re¬ 
commends to be provided with two body boxes instead of three. As I 
have never seen hives with body boxes two or three, this a sketch would 
make plain, and would be much appreciated by many like myself. 
Intend in the winter making a few boxes for next season’s use. I may 
add the ten-standard frame is generally adopted round here.—W. D. 
It is evident “ W. D.” is either a late reader of this Journal or has 
paid no attention to recent articles, which explained what a full sized 
hive was, as well 'as giving the details necessary for making the same 
ample enough for anyone to make his own hives of a right size and 
construction. If I thought or saw that woodcuts would be of any as¬ 
sistance I would prepare some drawings for that purpose, but the hive 
is so simple and easily made I am of opinion that such are unnecessary, 
especially when we take into consideration the fact of so many having 
made hives from the description in writing already given. One amateur 
in ill health alone has made upwards of a hundred hives complete during 
last winter. In giving instructions to bee-keepers, I like to know 
whether they are tradesmen or not. If the former, details of the make 
are all that is necessary ; but if not, we must tell them how to do it and 
with what tools. 
The ten-standard frame hive is by far too small, and is rapidly being 
converted into a storifying or tiering hive, by those, too, who disliked 
and condemned our system, now known under different names. My 
reason for recommending a full sized swarm from three or more boxes to 
be hived in two is because swarms of that sort are eager to store honey; 
hence, when crowded into two divisions, supers can be put on shortly 
after the bees are hived, which are quickly tenanted and filled with 
