34 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 19, 1889. 
the purest nectar. My own system, however, at least what I prefer, is 
to put two swarms together in three body boxes, unless when the 
swarms are before the honey season. In that case I put full sized 
swarms into three body boxes, for the purpose of reaping a large 
Heather harvest, which is better welcomed than Clover honey. We 
lose a little space by the breaks where numbers of divisions are em¬ 
ployed, but we gain much. The liability of deep combs to collapse is 
entirely prevented by their use.. When surplus-honey is wanted other 
than in supers, there is seldom any waste of empty comb, always present 
in deep combs. Extracting, too, can be carried on successfully, as no 
comb need be unsealed. Therefore, extracted honey, though thin, con¬ 
tains nothing but nectar. 
The size of a full sized hive depends greatly upon the sort of bee 
kept, and what the district can produce of honey. The hives of the 
tiering order I use measure II inches both ways by G4 inches fully inside 
measure, and three of these divisions as a rule constitute the hive 
proper. Last year all my hives were crowded in five such divisions. 
Of course the upper ones were either filled with sections or small supers. 
The latter I have used for more than forty years. Each division has 
a sliding mouthpiece the whole width of the hive. The use of this 
will be obvious to all when on trial. These are made with £ match 
ploughs, the groove being in the edge of hive. It will be observed that 
I adhere to nature by spacing the frames at exactly 1|- inch, the extra 
half inch being equally divided between the two outside frames, nine in 
all, the top bar measuring 14jj by 1J inch by J inch. There is no bottom 
rail, it being hurtful. The end pieces are lg broad by J thick. They 
have a square tenon, and are driven into a round hole in top bar, which 
has a one-eighth groove for comb foundation, and at such a distance as 
will ensure ^ inch space between them and hive. Common star tackets 
are the spacers. 
The stand is made of the same size as the upper divisions, but 
only deep, has 4 feet of angled iron firmly screwed, a moveable 
alighting board, held with two wire dowels, the top is covered with 
perforated zinc, and a close shutter encloses the bottom, and is held in 
its place by pressing on a fillet all round, and two nails beneath in 
front and a button at back. This shutter has a hole near the centre, 
which is again covered by a shutter sliding in the bars, that holds the 
shutter straight and together. The sides are all cut accurately from 
jj-inch wood, the front of back being 15^ inches, and the two sides 
llfths inches, being l-16th of an inch longer than the top bars. The 
top edges of front and back, as well as their ends, are rabbeted on 
the inside, leaving a face lip of 7-lGth outside. The ends to the depth, 
or rather on to the exact thickness of the sides, and the top edges 
exactly inch to suit the top bar. 
It will be seen that this hive has a space capacity of 3528 cubic 
inches, while the ten standard frame hive has only or about 1568. I 
trust the foregoing will help all who have a mind to make their hives, 
and while future articles will aim at practical work for advanced bee¬ 
keepers, I shall have some tit bits for the less able.— A Lanarkshire 
Bee-keeper. 
BEES IN WINTER. 
In the Journal for December 6th, page 527, “A Lanarkshire Bee¬ 
keeper ” warned bee-keepers to keep a sharp eye on their hives, so as to 
be able to detect any dead bees, and to discover the cause ; also 
mentioning the fact that a projecting alighting board catches the 
damp, and where it forms part of the floor board the damp is drawn 
inwards. I think this very important point is not considered much 
amongst cottagers and novices like myself. In this neighbourhood there 
are many bee-keepers in a small way. Any of the bar-frame hives I 
have seen in their gardens are fitted with a projecting alighting board, 
the latter forming part of the floor board, which is not moveable, being 
fast to the stand, The porches also are much loo narrow, seldom 
covering more than two-thirds of the alighting board. After reading the 
above warning I examined a bar-frame hive of mine which has a 
projecting alighting board. I found the rain had beat in several inches 
through the entrance, which was reduced to 1 inch in width, the 
remainder of the floor board being very damp, and there were several 
dead bees lying on it. To prevent a recurrence of this 1 have placed a 
board on edge over the entrance, which will keep the rain out. Before 
another winter comes I intend altering the alighting board. Perhaps 
some of your readers who have bar-frame hives similar to mine may, 
on examination, find theirs in a like state.—C. Bussell, Ingmire. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Peter Henderson & Co., 35 ani 37, Cortlandt Street, New York.— 
Manual of Everything for the Garden. 
Barr & Son, 12, King Street, Covent Garden.— Catalogue of Seeds. 
J. Cheal & Sons, Lowfield Nurseries, Crawley.— Seed List, 1SS9. 
Wm. Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, Herts.— Catalogue of Seeds and 
Garden Sundries. 
Alex. Lister, 14, East Princes Street, Rothesay.— Catalogue of 
Vegetables and Seeds. 
W. Drummond & Sons, Stirling.— Catalogue of Vegetable and 
Flower Seeds. 
G. Bunyard & Co., Maidstone.— Catalogue of Vegetable, Garden and 
Flower Seeds. 
William M. Beale, Neath.— Catalogue of Garden Seeds. 
Little & Ballantyne, Carlisle. — List of Garden Seeds and Sundries. 
Hooper & Co., Maida Vale and Covent Garden.— Seed Catalogue, 
18S9. 
Dicksons (Limited), Chester.— Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower 
Seeds. 
Dobbie & Co., Rothesay, Scotland.— Catalogue and Competitor's 
Guide, 1S89. 
G. B. Elliott, 97, Bradford Road, Huddersfield.— Catalogue of 
Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 
E. P. Dixon & Son, Hull.— Catalogue of Garden and Farm Seeds. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “Thb 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr- 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
To Correspondents. — Wednesday morning’s letters can seldom 
be answered satisfactorily in the current issue, and cannot be even 
'briefly answered this week. 
Books (./. II. IF.).—We are quite unable to name the “ best ” book 
for the purpose you appear to require. The principles governing the 
management of small are the same as for large gardens, with modifica¬ 
tions in their application. 
Custard Apple, Culture of (T. C., Newarli ).—This plant will 
require a stove temperature, or a warm conservatory where the 
temperature does not fall below 55°. 
Glazing' (G. D.). — You need have no hesitation in glazing as you 
propose. The plan is not patented, nor “ protected ” in any way ; and 
if you do the work well it will answer your expectations. 
Peach Trees not Growing- ( Weybridge). —The wood sent repre¬ 
sents good culture, and but for the misfortune of carbolic acid having 
been used unknown to you, and found its way into the sewage tank, 
the trees would have borne good fruit. The buds are dead on the shoot 
before us, and if all are like it cutting back the trees and replanting is 
the only course we can suggest. 
Forcing Kidney Beans (F. C.). —For your purpose we suspect 
Ne Plus Ultra would be better than Canadian Wonder, which is de¬ 
cidedly later, and, as a rule, better for growing outdoors than forcing 
under glass. A good deal, however, depends on the structures at com¬ 
mand, and you might try a few of the Canadian variety for testing its 
suitability for your purpose. The old Mohawk is good, early, and pro¬ 
ductive, hence worth trying, this and Ne Plus Ultra being extensively 
grown under glass when a large number of good sized pods are 
coveted. 
Model Gardens (iZ. C .).—We appreciate your motive, and can 
now understand the position. Evergreens are represented by sprays of 
Box and other small-leaved shrubs inserted in wet sand. Flowers are 
also inserted similarly and keep fresh for the time required ; but some 
naturally last longer than others, as you may, and should, ascertain by 
experiment before the show. Single pips of Pelargoniums are often 
used, and the least touch of clear gum placed in the centre will seal the 
petals. We hope you and your brother gardeners will help the cottagers 
in their endeavours to improve their gardens in making them more use¬ 
ful and attractive. 
Moss on Fruit Trees (F. I. B.). —Petroleum would no doubt 
kill moss and insects, but it is not nearly so beneficial to the trees as 
lime is, and it would not be easier of application, as it must be applied 
with a brush unless it were syringed on, which would be a great waste 
of material, and likely to prove injurious co the young wood and buds, 
and possibly to the roots through the soil being saturated by the falling 
oil. We should adhere to the lime, particularly as you have found it 
good ; or you may use a salt brine, strong enough to just float an egg, 
and apply it with a brush to parts not readily reached by lime. 
Salt and lime have manurial values. 
Xnsect Egrg s on Tomato Plants (Tomato').— We print your ques¬ 
tion in case any of our readers can give you the desired information. 
“ Is there anything that will kill the eggs of the white fly on young 
Tomato plants without injuring them ? They are in 3-inch pots, and the 
