42 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
f January 17, 1889. 
beautiful and valuable members of the family have been produced 
by artificial cross-fertilisation, and many curious facts have been 
observed. Crosses have been readily obtained between the Old 
World species, also between the Selenipedia, but it has been found 
more difficult to cross species of these two groups, and though seed 
has been secured and seedlings raised, none has yet flowered to 
prove whether a genuine cross had been effected. One of the best 
known and most useful hybrids yet raised is C. Sedeni, from C. 
Schlimi and C. longifolium, which has become a garden plant of 
inestimable value. There are many others of even greater beauty, 
which must, however, long continue scarce, because they are of 
slow increase. It would take too long to deal with the hybrids in 
these notes, and I can only refer those who wish for more informa¬ 
tion upon the matter, as well as upon Cypripediums generally, to 
Messrs. Yeitch’s admirable Monograph, containing a record of 
their experiments in hybridising, and with the fullest descrip¬ 
tive historical and cultural notes on the genus that have yet 
appeared. 
[In the present series of the Journal of Horticulture the follow¬ 
ing illustrations of Cypripediums have been published, accompanied 
by notes on the species and hybrids named :—C. albo-purpureum, 
p. 473, vol. vi. ; C. barbatum Warneri, p. 115, vol. iv. ; C. bella- 
tulum, p. 443, yol. xvi. ; C. Boissierianum, p. 91, vol. xiv. ; 
C. Bullenianum, p. 116, vol. vi. ; C. callosum, p. 7, vol. xiv. ; 
C. Cambridgeanum, p. 377, vol. xiv. ; C. Ernestianum, p. 377, 
vol. xiv. ; C. Fairieanum, p. 131, vol. xvi. ; C. Godefroyae, p. 579, 
vol. xi. ; C. grande (list of hybrids), p. 361, vol. viii. ; C.guttatum, 
p. 116, vol. vi. ; C. hirsutissimum, p. 293, vol. xiv. ; C. Lawrenci- 
anum, p. 442, vol. xxxvi. (second series) ; C. leucorrhodum, p. 129, 
vol. xii. ; C. Lowi, p. 153, vol. vi. ; C. Morganianum, p. 233, 
vol. xiv. ; C. oenanthum superbum, p. 62, vol. xii. ; C. orphanum, 
p. 135, vol. xv. ; C. proestans, p. 179, vol. xv.; C. punctatum 
violaceum, p. 116, vol. vi. ; C. purpuratum, p. 116, vol. vi. ; 
C. spectabile, p. 31, vol. vii. ; C. Spicerianum, p. 116, vol. vi. ; and 
C. superbiens, p. 247, vol. ix.] 
A FEW HINTS ON WATERING. 
[ A p iper by Mr. L. T ivigge, recently read at a meeting of the Wahefleld Paxton S rciety.] 
Watering plants is. one of the most important operations in con¬ 
nection with horticulture. In order to make the subject as practical 
as I can, and if possible to draw up a few rules on watering, I propose 
to take the first six months of the year, from January to June, as these 
are the chief growing months. The remaining months may be said to 
be the period of storing up food, the ripening process going on at the 
same time. 
January. —This is a month when we may say that all outside 
watering is better let alone, but the greatest care is required in all 
inside operations. Supposing the collection of plants to be mixed, 
greater care is necessary, but it is impossible to lay down any rules for 
watering a mixed collection. I must, therefore, speak as to the plants 
individually. First take what are termed hardwooded plants, such as 
Azaleas, Heaths, and Camellias. These require special care, as they 
generally remain in the same pots for some years, and should the soil 
become dry from insufficient water, or sour from excessive watering, 
disastrous results must follow. There are several methods of testing 
plants ; some rap the pots with the knuckles, others lift the plant. I 
well remember being under a large grower of Heaths and Azaleas, and 
have known it take two hours to water one house of specimen plants, 
and though very tedious work, the results were most satisfactory. There 
were thousands of plants from cuttings to specimens, and it rarely 
happened that any plant was sickly or unhealthy, and he told me that 
the great secret was in watering. Give a good soaking, surface watering 
is very injurious. Should the soil become hard and dry the only way is 
to immerse the pots. I remember an amateur Camellia grower having 
become disgusted with a house of Camellias, which always lost their 
buds. Being advised to water them well, he did so, but with no better 
result, and he ultimately sold them at a sacrifice. When turned out 
of the pots the soil bad become hard and dry, the surface watering 
never having penetrated it. The plants were taken and plunged into 
a pond of water, and at the present time are flowering. This rule 
applies to all plants that require firm potting. 
To all softwooded plants during this month give as little as 
possible, and give it to the roots, not to the foliage. You may err in 
giving too much, but an observer will soon detect when they require it. 
February.—T his month presents to us stronger sun and more light, 
rendering outside watering sometimes necessary, but this will in the 
main apply to plants in frames. I would lay down as a rule never 
water after twelve o’clock ; it is better to let the plants remain dry, as 
this is the month when frosts after damp do th? most injury. If at any 
time plants become frozen cold water should be apDlied, keeping them 
in the dark during the process. Inside watering requires much the 
same attention as last month, except syringing, which must depend upon 
the atmosphere, and dull or bright weather. Never syringe after 
2 p.m. during this month. 
March. —This month usually brings bright sunshine aDd dry 
winds, with greatly increased responsibility. Outside watering now 
becomes general, especially in the planting of trees, and shrubs. I would 
here remark that the most important work is in the preparation of the 
ground. If properly worked very little watering will suffice. In all cases 
see that the subsoil has been well moistened, as moisture rising up 
always starts root action sooner than surface watering. Trees and 
shrubs will start sooner if allowed to search for moisture from their 
surroundings, but frequent syringing of the foliage is indispensable for 
newly planted trees, and will do far more to help the growth than 
deluging the roots with water before they started to take to their fresh 
quarters. The old plan is to plant and then water, but from very close 
observation I am prepared to reverse the practice, water first and plant 
afterwards. 
Inside watering now also requires great care. In well-arrange 1 
houses most of the plants will have been newly potted, and therefore 
all the more attention is necessary. The great secret is to have the 
compost of such a texture and moist condition thac it is not necessary 
to water immediately after potting. Every plant when potted receives 
some check, and water should be withheld for a few days until root 
action has commenced, except that the atmosphere should be rendered 
genial with frequent syringings. Those who have not tried this plan 
may be sceptical as to the results, but it is a plan generally practised in 
the trade. Try it with Pelargoniums ; water half of them, and sprinkle 
the foliage of the others for a week, and I venture to say those not 
watered will have made fresh roots, the others not having one. As 
soon as they commence growing water may be given, and increased as 
roots and foliage develope. One of the most important points in con¬ 
nection with inside watering is to have the water the same tempera¬ 
ture as the house. Those who understand plant growing would as soon 
think of building a house without a chimney as building a greenhouse 
without a water supply. Never use water direct from a pump, or that 
below the temperature of the house. 
April and May. —The work for these months is much the same as 
last month, both as to inside and outside watering, remembering the 
increased sunlight and length of days. I might say that it is not safe 
to water after four o’clock, even in May, as we may expect keen frost 
any night. As this is the month when amateurs generally commence to 
decorate their windows and rooms, with plants, I propose to offer a few 
remarks on the subject. Care should be taken in removing plants from 
a humid atmosphere to dry rooms, and the grower is often blamed for 
other people’s mistaken kindness. Persons who love plants in rooms 
very often kill them with kindness. I have frequently met with 
persons who make it a practice to water their plants every morning. 
These remarks will especially apply to lovers of Ferns. They are 
amongst the most useful of our decorative plants for house work, and 
require the least attention, especially when in cases. The best rule I 
can give you for all plants grown in rooms is to immerse them in water 
ten minutes every week. I have kept plants in rooms and for deco¬ 
ration in furniture show rooms twelve months by this process with 
satisfactory results. 
June. —Watering this month is most important inside and outside. 
Notwithstanding that we have hot and dry days and warm nights, 
watering still requires care. My own opinion is, that so far as practical 
watering is concerned, hose pipe3 do far more harm than good. 
They are useful for washing shrubs and flags, but are injurious to plants. 
The best way is to run the water into tubs and water from cans. Hants 
watered from a pump spout or hose pipe will frequently turn yellow. 
This is the month when thousands of plants have to be transferred 
from pots and cutting pans and beds to the open ground, perhaps in 
the heat of a summer day, and it is far better to have the plants well 
watered overnight, the roots being then well moistened and ready for 
planting in the morning, than to give water just before planting. 
After planting any of the Brassicas go over the ground and draw the 
dry soil around the roots, you need water no more. When once roots 
have started they will search for moisture, and surface watering will do 
more harm than good, only causing the roots to come to the surface to 
be scorched by the sun. In planting out generally this is the month 
when gardeners have to exert themselves to the utmost. The least 
trouble and expense is to well prepare beds or borders by taking out the 
top soil, water the subsoil, replace the other soil, and wait a few hours, 
then plant and surface with dry soil; you need water no more, the 
plants will stand through a dry season. I have seen beds and borders 
of various plants give greater satisfaction treated in this way than those 
that have been watered every day, and roots of plants will always go 
down for moisture, yet many continue surface watering. 
VIOLETS. 
No plant is more generally appreciated than the Violet, and great 
numbers of sorts are grown, but it is not my intention to enumerate 
them, rather to offer a few practical hints as to their success¬ 
ful culture. I may, however, say, that in my opinion Marie 
Louise is the best all-round variety to grow, though all are beau¬ 
tiful in their way, and perhaps the best place to see Violets in 
variety and quantity is at Belvoir Castle, Grantham. When I was 
there last spring Mr. Ingram assured me that he had hunted far 
and wide for every sort of Violet in cultivation, and I should think 
he had as good a collection as need be. 
The way to grow Violets is to insert cuttings during the month 
of April in sharp light soil on a spent hotbed, where Asp : 
has been forced, for instance. Here they will soon produce roots, 
