52 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 17,1889. 
should have as much of the surface soil removed as the condition 
of their roots will allow, and a fresh compost of good fibry loam, 
three parts, to one part of decayed manure supplied. If the 
plants need repotting the old soil should not be disturbed further 
than is necessary by the removal of the old drainage and loose soil 
from the surface. To the compost advised coarse sand and charcoal I 
may be added, and a few half-inch bones with the fine parts left 
amongst them. 
Any plants that have become bare at the base by crowding or 
neglect may be cut close back. It is surprising what healthy well- 
furnished specimens can be produced by this treatment in two or three 
years. Camellias that are unhealthy, or in bad condition at their 
roots, should not be subjected to this treatment, for they would 
make little or no progress, and possibly fail altogether. They 
should be encouraged to make free growth, and a good number of 
active roots before it is wise to cut them close back. Cutting 
plants back to within a foot or 18 inches of the soil has often 
proved unsatisfactory, principally through operating on unhealthy 
rootless examples. Plants that are in this condition may often be 
induced to root and grow by carefully removing wet sour soil from 
their roots. They should then be repotted in smaller pots and 
a lighter compost than the one advised for healthy plants. If 
they can be given slight bottom heat to start them all the better. 
A bed of leaves, with a little litter incorporated, where the heat 
will be of the slightest description and moist, the temperature 
about 55°, is the surest means of restoring plants to health and 
vigour. Water must be applied with the utmost care to these, as 
well as those cut hard back. The latter are benefited by slight 
bottom heat, but they will break freely in a vinery. After the 
first year they can be grown with the general stock. Whether the 
plants are healthy, have been cut back, or are being restored 
to health, the syringe should be freely used two or three times 
a day. 
It is not a very easy matter to regrat't large plants when the 
varieties are not such as are desired, nevertheless this can be accom¬ 
plished, and well-furnished plants of the sorts required can be 
produced in two or three years. The chief difficulty arises through 
not being able to find a suitable position in which the plants can be 
kept sufficiently close until the scion and stock have united. When 
grafting is intended the stock should be cut within a foot of the 
soil, and five or six scions of the previous season’s wood carefully 
secured to the stock at equal distances apart. No more bark should 
be removed from the stock than is really necessary ; in fact, in 
each case the bark of the scion and stock should fit closely on each 
side. The whole should be secured into position, and then mossed 
or clayed to keep them constantly moist. This operation maybe 
carried out at once, and the plants kept as close and moist as possible 
under the circumstances. Inarching is a more certain method of 
establishing different varieties on large stocks. If young plants are 
inarched they have support until they are united. 
Plants that are trained to walls at the back of Peach houses or 
vineries which can be kept close and moist for a time can be more 
readily regrafted. Side grafting should be practised, and the scions 
taken off sufficiently long to allow the end being inserted in small 
bottles of water. JL’he best time to carry out this work is just as 
the sap commences to rise, which will be soon after such houses 
have been closed for forcing purposes. This is a fairly certain 
method, and if scions are plentiful large plants can be very quickly 
changed from one variety to another by establishing several dozen 
scions on different portions of it. In such cases the original variety 
is very liable to appear again, but these can be cut away as they 
are observed.—W. D. L. 
ALSTRCEMERIAS. 
There are very few hardy perennials to surpass these in the 
early autumn months, and yet their culture is rarely attempted. 
When well established—that is, after occupying the same spot 
undisturbed for eight or ten years, they annually produce a rich 
display. The great secret in their successful cultivation is to let 
them alone, even should it be for twenty years, so much the better. 
As the present time is about the best for planting, it may be 
well to point out the best mode of doing so. To insure success 
they must be planted deep, fully 9 inches under the surface, and, 
as far as possible in a light warm soil. Frequently failures are due 
to not planting them sufficiently deep, consequently in severe 
winters they become frozen and but little or no use after. I have 
seen a large bed destroyed by frost through too shallow planting. 
Three or four inches deep is not enough for them, nor are they safe 
from frost. In good soil their long white fleshy tubers will go down 
a great depth, a fact which enables them to endure long-continued 
drought with impunity. I know one locality in the neighbourhood 
of Bath where there is a grand mass of these which has stood in the 
same spot nearly twenty-five years. The plants have spread into one I 
huge group, and the tubers have descended to an almost incredible 
depth. It is, perhaps, not wise to plant them in the ordinary border 
by reason of their spreading habit of growth. Particularly is this 
true of A. aurea, A. aurantiaca, and the forms of A. chilensis, for 
which a narrow south border would be most suitable where they 
may remain undisturbed. They are impatient of frequent disturb¬ 
ance, hence the herbaceous border proper, which must of necessity 
be replanted occasionally, is not the best fitted for them. The tone 
of colour found in many of their flowers considerably enhances their 
value ; and for decorative purposes much more of shades near akin 
would be welcome among greenhouse and conservatory plants, as 
well as those for the outside department of gardening. 
I have never attempted their cultivation in pots for the purpose 
named, but their behaviour in small pots— i.e., 4-inch, into which I 
have often placed them to execute orders of them in their flowering- 
season, when they attract so many, convinces me that much might 
be done with them when established. A dozen or so of 9 or 10-inch 
pots filled with these, would, I imagine, excite a good deal of 
admiration, and I believe I have sufficient knowledge of these 
plants to recommend its adoption, giving similar treatment to these 
as to the lovely Crocosma (Tritonia) aurea, another charming 
plant too seldom done justice to. The first season I would allow 
them to flower at their natural time, but do not be disappointed if 
they do not flower the first year, for they require being well 
established before flowering freely; therefore I would suggest to 
those possessed of sufficient patience to pot a trial batch at once r 
and plunge them in the open ground for twelve months, and not 
use them for indoor work till the second year. Tt is not a plant we 
can use at all times, or in all the positions we would wish, but having 
a desire to distribute its richly toned flowers as much as possible, 
I am anticipating putting a clump or two on a small rockery I am 
now forming. These will be placed in large pots in the ordinary 
way, and planted at the depth I have recommended. Should they 
succeed their flowers will be a welcome surprise at a time when 
there is not much in flower in rockeries as a rule ; and, of course, 
there is no reason why they may not be planted in the herbaceous 
border also, by adopting the pot system, which will keep them at 
home. When planting them, I take out the soil 15 inches deep, 
well fork up the bottom, and place a layer of cow manure in the 
trench. Next cover with 3 or 4 inches of the soil, upon which 
spread half an inch of sharp grit. Now lay the tubers upon the 
sand, in which they delight, and cover them. If you can only let 
them alone they will annually prove of great value, and one of the 
most attractive features out of doors. The most hardy are A. aurea, 
orange golden ; A. concolor, rich orange slightly flaked with red ; 
A. chilensis in variety, including crimson, purple, and yellow ; 
A. psittacina. This has very distinct short tubers in clusters, and 
crimson flowers with greenish points and purple spots ; and A. bra- 
siliensis, reddish mahogany, thickly spotted with black. All these 
are good free-flowering varieties, and perfectly hardy when planted 
at the proper depth.—J. H. E. 
Vines. —Early Vines in Pot.?. —Allow the laterals beyond the 
bunches to extend as far as space permits, as the more foliage a Vine 
has fully exposed the greater is the root action, and the better nourished 
the fruit will be. Supply liquid manure slightly warmer than the 
temperature of the house, and surface-dress with rich compost. If the 
Vines have the benefit of a bed of fermenting materials place some 
turves around the rim, so as to reach over on to the fermenting bed, 
filling the space between the turves and stem of the Vine with decayed 
manure, keeping the turves and fermenting material about the pots 
moist, so as to encourage the roots to extend beyond the pots ; turn, 
and add to the fermenting materials as they settle down. Discontinue 
syringing after the Vines commence flowering, as a somewhat drier 
atmosphere is desirable at that time ; but when the berries are set keep 
the floors and walls damp by sprinkling in the morning and early after¬ 
noon, and the evaporation troughs should be filled with liquid manure 
or guano water, 1 lb. to twenty gallons of water, and if there be no 
evaporation troughs available surfaces may be sprinkled occasionally 
with the liquid. 
Early Ileuses .—Avoid a close atmosphere ; ventilate when the 
weather is favourable, so as to give substance to the foliage, closing 
early, and allowing the temperature to rise to 80° or 85°, so as to utilise 
the sun heat and secure as long a day’s growth as possible, or whilst 
there is light. The temperature, after the Vines are in leaf, should be 
60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day aitificially, keeping it through 
