54 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 17,188*. 
the plants are grown some distance apart, the manure, if scarce, may 
Only be placed over each, allowing the vacant ground between to remain 
exposed. Weak roots may be greatly strengthened by a good top¬ 
dressing. 
Forcing Vegetables. —This operation is weekly becoming more 
easy, and a good succession of Asparagus, Seakale, and Rhubarb should 
be introduced. Kidney Beans are showing more life, and plants that 
are now coming into bloom or pod should receive liquid manure twice 
weekly. Sow more of the Ne Plus Ultra seed, and have in a good quantity 
to fruit in March. All seed sown now and after this time will produce 
plants sure to bear profitably. Forced Chicory and Mustard and Cress 
are now valuable additions to the other somewhat scarce salad plants. 
Mushroom Beds. —Our beds in sheds have been wonderfully suc¬ 
cessful. From one large bed in the potting shed we have gathered 
almost daily since the first week in November, but the supply is de¬ 
clining a little, and where this is the case sprinkle a little soot over the 
surface, then water it several times with water heated to 90°, and in two 
or three hours afterwards cover it with a good layer of hay. This will 
cause fresh and robust Mushrooms to appear in a week or so. We have 
secured many valuable second crops in this way, and often if the winter 
beds are allowed to remain until early summer they will begin bearing 
again with the natural warmth, and it is astonishing how many they 
will produce after some would conclude they were quite over. Vege¬ 
tables of many kinds are scarce in April, and if a good bed or two can 
be formed now they will supply quantities of Mushrooms at that time 
that will be a valuable addition to the other resources. We attribute 
failures in Mushroom growing more to bad spawn than to any other 
cause. We have ceased using French spawn. 
Early Seed Potatoes. —Our early seed Potatoes have been stored 
since last October on the floor of the fruit room. Although the tem¬ 
perature is not forcing, many, or, indeed, all of them are beginning to 
sprout freely, and where they are allowed to do this to any extent under 
dark or crowded conditions the growths formed will be of an inferior 
description. The best way of treating all seed Potatoes as soon as they 
egin to 6pr< •_ is to spread them out in a single! ayer on soil 1 n a glass 
ouse or frarn- fully exposed to light in a low temperature, but quite 
ale from frost. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gardenias .—Plants that were pinched two months ago to prevent 
flowering may now have larger pots. Year-old plants that have been 
treated liberally will be sufficiently rooted in 7 and 8-inch pots for 
removal into others 2 inches larger. Plants of this nature will make 
wonderful progress, and by autumn should be nearly 3 feet in diameter 
and capable of carrying a large number of fine flowers. If given 
liberal treatment they will abundantly repay any sacrifice that has been 
made in not allowing them to bloom. After potting tie out the 
strongest shoots towards the rim of the pot, and pinch any that show 
signs of taking the lead. Give these plants a night temperature of 60° 
to 65°, and slight bottom heat where practicable. Young stock rooted 
early in August may now be placed in 5-inch pots. Pinch the shoots to 
induce the plants to branch freely. Cuttings of young wood may be 
in,seTted singly in small pots and plunged in the propagating frame. 
These will be useful in 5 and 6-inch pots for spring flowering. Supply 
water carefully and syringe freely, maintaining a moist atmosphere. 
Those that have flowered may be cut back and started into growth 
again by introducing them into brisk heat. If the latter are infested 
with insects syringe them thoroughly with petroleum and water, 2 ozs. 
of the former to a gallon of the latter. Pot Gardenias moderately firm 
in'a compost of fibry loam, three parts to one of leaf mould, to this add 
one-seventh of manure and a liberal quantity of coarse sand. 
Epiphyllums .—Place plants that have flowered in a temperature of 
50°, which will soon cause growth to start. If a moderate amount of 
moisture can be maintained in the atmosphere all the better. Do not 
give the plants too much water at their roots, or they are liable to be 
destroyed ; on the other hand, they should not be allowed to become 
dust dry. Young plants may be raised by using Pereskia aculeata as a 
stock. Where a few plants are worked annually the best plan is to allow 
a plant of the Pereskia to grow strongly for the purpose, and then cut 
it into lengths of 9 inches or 1 foot, according to the length of stem 
required. Each length can be placed into 3-inch pots and grafted at 
the same time. If plunged in the propagating frame the Epiphyllum 
will be united to the stock by the time the latter is well rooted. This is 
a quicker method than raising stocks from small cuttings and then 
growing them on until they attain sufficient strength for grafting. If a 
good sized piece of Epiphyllum is secured to the stock now the plants 
will by autumn make heads 9 inches or a foot through them, according 
to the variety. 
Begonias. — Plants of B. Ingrami that have been kept in 2 and 3-inch 
pots may be placed at once into 4 and 5-inch pots. If the young plants 
have been well cared for the largest may after potting be allowed to 
flower, and will be found useful in the stove or intermediate structure. 
B. nitida alba and rosea may also be placed in 5-inch pots. By the time 
they are well established in these pots they will show flower, and will be 
found useful for associating with other plants in the stove. For this 
purpose these two varieties are not pinched, but allowed to grow with 
a single stem. Place into larger pots young plants of B. semperflorens 
gigantea carminea, and cut plants well back that have exhausted them¬ 
selves by flowering. They will soon break into growth from near the 
base, and yield good cuttings for next autumn and winter’s stock of 
plants. Place young plants of B. semperflorens into 4-inch pots, and 
allow them to flower. How a little seed of this variety on the surface of 
fine soil in a pan or pot, water carefully, and cover the pan with a square 
of glass until the seed germinates. Cut back the shoots of B. weltoni- 
ensis and others of similar growth, reduce their roots freely, and repot 
them. If placed in a temperature of 60° they will quickly start into 
growth. The remainder of these plants intended for succession should 
be kept cool and dry. A few may be started into growth at intervals of 
about a month. The variety named, parviflora, Dregei, and Carrierei are 
amongst the most useful for conservatory decoration after the middle of 
May. Do not keep the latest plants of B. manicata and B. hydrocoty- 
lifolia too warm, and then their flowers will last in good condition 
until the end of May. If the earliest plants have been brought out in 
brisk heat gradua'ly harden them before removal to the conservatory, 
for the flowers of B. manicata are very liable to fall if the plants are 
subjected to a sudden change. It is a mistake to hurry these, for their 
flowers are much more beautiful and last double the length of time 
when allowed to expand in an intermediate temperature. Start 
a few of the tuberous Begonias in pans and boxes of leaf mould in 
gentle heat, and subsequently pot them singly in well-drained pots, 
according to the size of the tubers. Begonias do well in a compost of 
rich loam and one-seventh of manure, with a liberal quantity of sand 
added. For the latter and B. semperflorens about one-third of the 
compost may consist of leaf mould. 
Amaryllises .—Introduce a few of these bulbs that have enjoyed a 
lengthened season of rest into the forcing house. If they have been 
kept dry soak them in tepid water before introducing them. If they 
need repotting it may as well be done before they are started into 
growth ; it can be done more easily now, and with less injury to the 
roots than is the case then. These bulbs do well in a compost of loam, 
sand, and one-seventh of decayed manure. Large bulbs may be 
accommodated in 6-inch pots, the bulbs being well elevated above the 
surface of the soil. After growth commences keep them moderately 
close to the glass and not too warm, or their foliage will be drawn up 
weakly. 
WINTER WORK. 
Many bee-keepers will now begin to make preparations for the 
summer season. By preparing all necessary appliances at this time 
of the year, we cannot fail to experience a great relief at the period 
when much has to be done in a very short time, and occasionally at 
a moment’s notice. In bee-keeping the slightest procrastination is 
not seldom very fatal, and in some cases a delay of a day in per¬ 
forming certain manipulations may cause great anxiety and trouble. 
Those bee-keepers who are constructing or purchasing new hives 
must not fail to carefully consider the pattern of hive and its 
suitability before going to any expense, and we are certainly of 
opinion that for general use a hive of some twelve frames in each 
body box, and consisting of at least two body boxes, is the most 
useful form which we have yet seen. Iu effect such a hive is 
very similar to the Stewarton, but in some respects it has the 
advantage of the latter hive. Whatever the kind of hive may be, 
accurate workmanship is absolutely essential to future comfort 
when moving the frames for any purpose, and a floor board of the 
kind which “ A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper ” recommends would 
certainly be a great safeguard, if not an absolute preventive of 
injury from damp. Every hive should receive at least two coats 
of thick paint, and all crevices must be filled up with putty, before 
painting, if they are in a position to admit rain or snow. Large 
roomy covers are in every way useful, and it appears to be a great 
element in keeping hives free from damp, if there is sufficient 
room over the tops of the frames to admit a free circulation of the 
air. Every cover should in our opinion have spaces beneath the 
cases through which the air can pass, but care must be taken 
so that such spaces shall be in a position that wet cannot 
penetrate. 
Tiering hives must consist of at least two body boxes, and then 
there must be space sufficient to admit of at least three racks o>f 
sections being placed upon the hive at the same time. In many 
instances it is necessary to have as many as seven racks, containing 
upwards of twenty-one sections each, upon one stock at the same 
time. The section racks should, of course, be constructed with a 
view to tiering, and the greatest care should be taken to see that 
when placed one upon another they lie level, and do not leave 
