56 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
f January 17, 1889. 
for steam boilers, whilst if for setting in brickwork it would be best in 
a stokehole clear of the greenhouse. The boiler will require to be so 
fixed that there will be a slight rise in the flow pipe from its leaving the 
boiler to where the return is made to the boiler, half an inch in a 9-feet 
length is suitable. The joints may be made with yarn and white lead, 
the latter with the addition of red lead to bring it to the consis¬ 
tency of putty. The joints should in the first instance be well caulked 
with yarn, and then the lead, alternating with yarn, driving the yarn 
well in. 
Repotting- Hollies (.1/. J7.). — Turn the plants out of the pots at 
the close of March, and remove with a pointed stick all the soil that can 
be picked out from the roots without injuring the fibres ; or if the soil 
be in a sodden state and the roots few remove all the soil, and in repot¬ 
ting work the soil in amongst and between the roots, not crowding them 
together, but spreading evenly through the soil, keeping the setting-on 
of the roots or the neck of the plants level with the rim of the pots, 
potting moderately firmly, leaving space below the.rim for watering of 
about an inch. Good drainage should be provided, and a compost of 
rather strong fibrous loam, with a fourth of well decayed manure, will 
grow them well. Plunge in ashes in a slightly shaded situation, sprink¬ 
ling overhead twice a day in dry weather until they are growing freely, 
but do not water at the roots more than to keep the soil moist, and when 
established remove to an open situation, watering freely as the growth 
progresses, and always keeping moist. 
Planting Box Edging QUeatJiJtelrl ).—Take up the Box, tear it into 
slips, and every one with a small root or two attached will grow, and if 
sufficient of these cannot be had, mix seme without roots with the others. 
They should be 5 or G inches long, held in the hand and the tops 
trimmed level, the bottoms also. Make the ground very firm and quite 
level, then stretch the line, keeping it firm with pegs, and take out a 
trench, the side next the line being perpendicular, arrange the slips in 
it close together and level, holding them in position with one hand 
while the soil is beaten firmly against them with the other, then fill in 
with the rake or spade, and tread the ground along both sides the row, 
which, when completed, may be 2 inches above the walk. If no rooted 
portions can be had it will be well to take off a number of rootless slips 
and lay them thickly and deeply in the ground in a position shaded from 
the sun in summer, and they will emit roots and be ready for planting 
in the autumn. Rooted portions maybe planted now when the weather 
is favourable, or in spring, the earlier the better. 
Azaleas Losing their Foliage (//.).—Carelessness in watering 
and the attacks of insects are generally the causes of the bareness of 
which you complain in your plants. Let the plants be closely ex¬ 
amined, and if any thrips or blight is found upon the foliage plunge 
the tops in a solution of softsoap and tobacco water, repeating the 
operation on alternate days for a week. If the pots are small in pro¬ 
portion to the size o'f the plants, and are crowded with roots, repot at 
once with light fibrous peat with plenty of white gritty sand mixed 
with it (one part sand to three parts peat) ; take especial care that the 
drainage is thorough, the fresh soil well rammed in, and use pots of 
II to 2 inches more in diameter than the old pots ; take the plants from 
the potting bench to a somewhat shaded position in the hothouse, use 
the syringe freely, but apply water to the roots sparingly till the new 
growth is pushing freely ; after they have finished growing place them 
in a sunny position to ripen the new growth. When the flower buds 
are so far developed that you can feel them remove the plants to a 
cooler temperature, and let them have plenty of fresh air. The most 
important points in the culture of Azaleas are—the watering, cleanliness 
of the foliage, an early and well-matured growth brought about in the 
manner we have described, and abundance of air and light after the 
growth iu matured. 
Pruning Outdoor Vines (?’. IK.).—We should not cut the Vine 
back more than to remove any unripened growth, and should train the 
cane horizontally at a foot distance from the ground, and when the eyes 
are broken and a few inches long rub off all the shoots on the under side 
and front, leaving a shoot at every 18 inches distance, every second of 
which is to be trained upright and to the top of the wall without stop¬ 
ping, then take out the point of each, stopping the laterals at the first 
joint, and do that throughout the season. The first shoot taken to the 
top of the wall or retained for that purpose should be 18 inches from 
the end of the wall, from whence the Vine starts, and the next that is 
to be taken up the wall 3 feet distance from it, and so on. A shoot 
should be taken from the end of the Vine, training it upward, or nearly 
so, and in the autumn following it may be brought down to the hori¬ 
zontal position, and shoots originated from it as upon the other of a 
previous year’s growth. In this way you will originate the rods for 
covering the wall, and from which you will in due course have shoots 
for bearing. The shoots between the principal canes should be stopped 
at the sixth leaf if they do not show fruit, and, if fruiting, at one joint 
beyond the bunch, and the laterals to one leaf. 
Transplanting Asparagus at Midsummer (J. G .').— If you 
are expected to remove the Asparagus and plant in another garden, 
twelve miles distant, at midsummer, and have the usual supply for cut¬ 
ting the following spring, you have a task before you which, so far as we 
know, has not been imposed on any other gardener. It is. quite evident 
the owner does not understand the subject, and it is impossible that you 
or anyone else can do what you suggest with any amount of certainty. 
Under exceptionally favourable weather for the plants—namely, dull, 
warm, and showery for three weeks, they might grow and afford a few 
heads for cutting the following year, but nothing like the usual supply 
could be reasonably expected from them. Cannot you remove the roots 
to the new garden in April, just as a few growths are visible ? If you 
cannot, then your proposal to remove them to a cool, shaded border is 
the most feasible plan to adopt for retarding the growth as much as 
possible, packing the roots closely together in soil composed largely of 
leaf mould. There, and during their subsequent transference, the roots 
must be continually moist or failure will be certain. Whatever growths 
are made over G inches long must be cut before removal. We shall be 
glad to hear how you succeed in this unusual undertaking. Your plants 
from two-year-old seed of Dedham Favourite Tomato will, if well 
managed, bear a good crop. It is one of the best of the crimson fruited 
varieties. If you wish for red fruits you must grow another sort, Per¬ 
fection being one of the finest of that colour. 
Inarching: Vines ( Reader ).—It would be the surest method of 
procedure, and may be practised, if you emp’oy fruiting canes of the 
desired variety—viz., Alicante, without entire loss of crop, or the canes 
may be fruited moderately the same season as the inarching is performed. 
The stocks (Muscats) should be cut back to within a short distance of 
where the scions (the Alicantes) are to be joined, leaving, however, a 
spur or two, or some portion of young wood, as it is necessary to have 
growth in the stock so as to attract the sap to and past the junction. 
A smooth part of the rod should be selected for effecting the junction, 
and as near the bottom of the rafter as practicable. It is essential that 
the barks of both fit exactly, or at least on one side, but better on both, 
and that the tongues be evenly joined. The method alluded is that of 
side inarching with a tongue, which is performed as follows :—Having 
the Vines in pots properly placed so that the part where they are to be 
joined to the stocks will most easily join, pare away the bark and part 
of the wood 2 or 3 inches in length, and in the same manner pare 
the stock in the proper place for the junction of the graft ; then make a 
slit upward in the graft, so as to form a sort of tongue, and make a slit 
downward in the stock to admit it. Let the parts be then joined, slipping 
the tongue of the graft into the cleft of the stock, and tie them closely 
together with cotton or matting ; after covering the whole with wax or 
clay. Any cut made in the scion or stock must be dressed with styptic 
or knotting, to prevent bleeding. The operation may be performed now 
or before growth takes place, and it may be done after growth is 
made. All growths on the Alicantes below the junction may be rubbed 
off, and the growth in the stock, also below the j unction ; but the part above 
should be allo-wed to make a little growth, so as to attract the sap to the 
junction, and the graft above the junction may be treated as an ordinary 
cane. The Vines may be allowed to grow together through the season 
until the fruit, if anjq is ripe, and then detach the part below the junc¬ 
tion of the graft and the part above it of the stock. Or the graft may 
be detached from the root part so soon as it is seen by the growth in the 
part above the junction that the union of stock and scion is complete, 
but it is well to err on the safe side. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET. —January IGth. 
Our market still keeps dull, and all classes of fruit are lower. 
Grapes is unlimited. 
FRUIT. 
The demaud for 
s. d. s. d. 
Apples, ^ sieve.2 0 to 4 0 
„ Nova Scotia and 
C&nado, per barrel ..50 9 0 
Oherr es, £ sieve .... 0 0 0 0 
0obs,1001bs. 00 00 
Grapes, per ft... .... 0 9 26 
b. d. 
«. d. 
Lintons, case .. .. ..10 0 to 15 O 
Oranges, per 100 .... 4 0 9 0 
Peaches, dozen. 0 0 0 0 
Pears, dozen ..•••. 1 0 2 6 
Plums, £-sieve. 0 0 0 G 
St. Micuael Pine , each & 0 8 0 
VEGETABLES. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
i. 
s. 
a. 
0. 
d. 
Artichokes, dozen •• •• 
2 
0 to 3 
0 
Lettuce, dozen •• .. 
0 
9 to 
1 
3 
Asparagus, bundle .. • • 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Mushrooms, punnet .. 
0 
6 
1 
O 
Beans, Kidney,per lb. .. 
0 10 
0 
0 
Mustard and Cress, punt. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beet, Red, dozen .. .. 
1- 
0 
2 
0 
New Potat>33, per owt... 
0 
0 
0 
O 
Broccoli, bundle .. .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Onions, bunoh. 
0 
3 
u 
0 
Brussels Sprout?, \ sieve 
1 
0 
1 
G 
Parsley, dozen bunches 
2 
0 
! 
0 
Cabbage,dozen .. .. 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Parsnips, dozen .. .. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Capsicum?, per 100 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Potatoes, per cwt. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Carrots, bunch .. .. 
0 
4 
0 
0 
,, Kidney, per owt. 
4 
0 
8 
0 
Cauliflowers, dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Rhubarb, bundle .. .. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Celery, bundle .. .. 
1 
8 
9 
0 
Salsify, bundle .. .. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Coleworts, doz. bunches 
9 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzonera, bundle .. 
1 
6 
0 
O 
Cucumbers, each .. ., 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Shallots, per ft .. .. 
0 
s 
0 
0 
Endive, dozen. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach, bushel .. .. 
1 
G 
2 
0 
Hero?, bunch. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes, per lb. .. .. 
0 
3 
0 10 
Leeks, bunch. 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Turnips, bunch •• .. 
0 
4 
0 
0 
CUT 
FLOWERS; 
8. 
d. 
0 
u. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Abutilons, 12 bunches .. 
3 
0 
to 6 
0 
Mignonette, 12 bunches 
2 
0 to 4 
& 
Arum Lilies, 12 blooms .. 
4 
0 
8 
0 
Narcissus (Paper White), 
Azalea, 12 sprays .. .. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
12 sprays .. 
1 
0 
1 
G- 
Bouvardias, bunch .. .. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
,, (French) bunch 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Camellias, 12 blooms 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Pelargoniums, 12 trusses 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Carnations, 12 bloomB .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
scarlet, 12 trusses 
6 
0 
n 
0 
Christmas Bose 
0 
6 
2 
0 
Poin3ettia, dozen blooms 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Chrysanthemums, 12 bl... 
1 
0 
s 
0 
Primroses, doz. bunches.. 
i 
0 
2 
0 
„ . 12 bohs. 
4 
0 
12 
0 
Roses, Red, 12 blooms .. 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Cyclamen, dozen blooms 
Eucharis, dozen .. .. 
0 
4 
u 
y 
,, (indoor), dozen 
2 
0 
S 
0 
s 
0 
b 
0 
„ Tea, dozen .. .. 
2 
0 
« 
0 
Gardenias, 12 blooms .. 
9 
0 
11 
0 
„ vellow . 
3 
0 
8 
0 
Hyacinths (Roman), doz. 
Stephnnotis, 12 sprays .. 
9 
0 
12 
0 
sprays . 
i 
0 
i 
6 
Tropaeolum, 12 bunches 
i 
0 
2 
a 
L^pageria, 12 blooms .. 
i 
0 
2 
6 
| Tuberoses, 12 blooms .. 
1 
6 
a 
0 
Lilac, White (French), 
| Tulips, dozen blooms .. 
0 
9 
i 
6 
per buach . 
6 
0 
Violets, 12 bunches.. .. 
1 
0 
i 
6 
Li turn longiflorum, 12 
„ Parme (French), 
blooms. 
4 
0 
6 
0 
per bunch 
3 
6 
5 
0 
Li'yof theValley, 12 sprays 
0 
D 
1 
6 
(French) bunch.. 
l 
8 
2 
0 
M irguerites, 12 buuohes 
2 
0 
6 
0 
Wallflowers, dcz. bunohes 
4 
0 
6 
0 
