January 21,1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
77 
place next season, and another must be left on a level with, or above 
the fruit, to draw the sap to the fruit. The upper shoot should have 
its point pinched out at the third leaf, unless it be necessary for the 
extension of the trees, when it should be trained in its full length. If 
the trees are not of full size the shoots necessary for the formation of 
the trees must be trained 12 to 15 inches apart. Instead of disbudding 
extensions—shoots not required for laying in to form the bearing wood 
of next j ear—pinch the superfluous shoots at the third leaf, and to one 
afterwards, and they will form spurs. The bearing shoots on extensions 
must be 15 to 18 inches apart, as it is of primary importance in the 
cultivation of the Peach and Nectarine that the shoots be trained so 
that the foliage may be fully exposed to light and air, therefore 
avoid overcrowding, and the questionable practice of leaving shoots to 
be removed at a more advanced stage of growth. 
General Treatment. —When the fruits are set and swelling, give an 
occasional syringing in the early part of fine afternoons, but avoid 
heavy syringings at this stage, as the foliage is tender and the evapo¬ 
ration not great. Maintain sufficient moisture in the atmosphere by 
damping the path and border in the morning and afternoon. When the 
fruits swell and are thickly placed, remove a few of the smallest and 
those on the under side of the branches, but do not thin them too 
severely—thinning, like disbudding, must be done gradually. If fer¬ 
menting materials have been employed inside the house, still continue 
to turn them, and add fresh but properly sweetened manure, as if rank 
it will give off too much ammonia, the foliage and young fruit being 
injured. Where there are evaporation troughs, charging them with 
liquid manure will be useful not only in preventing the atmosphere 
becoming too dry in the immediate vicinity of the pipes, but in giving 
off ammonia. Where there are not fermenting materials or evaporation 
troughs, damp the house in the afternoon after the foliage becomes dry 
with liquid manure the drainings of the stables diluted with six times 
the bulk of water. If aphides appear, fumigate moderately on two or 
three consecutive evenings carefully, as an overdose is fatal to the 
foliage and tender fruit, or syringe with a solution of 2 ozs. softsoap 
and one pint tobacco juice to a gallon of water, straining it through 
tiffany or muslin before use. It is good against aphides, red spider, and 
mildew. If the latter appear, dust promptly with sulphur, and keep 
the house rather drier and more freely ventilated, but this must be done 
carefully, as cold draughts give a check which may cause the fruit to 
fall. In clear frosty weather it is safer to allow the temperature to rise 
a little than to open the ventilators too much. In watering inside 
borders liquid manure will assist weakly trees to swell their fruits in 
the first stage, and always apply it or water slightly in advance of the 
temperature of the house. 
Trees Started Early in the Year. —These are swelling the buds, 
and the early varieties are showing colour. The ni ,-ht temperature 
should be advanced to 45° to 50°, and 50° to 55° in the daytime by 
artificial means, and 60° to 65° from sun heat, ventilating freely above 
55°, and leave a little air constantly -at the top of the house. Cease 
syringing the trees, but damp the borders occasionally, so as to maintain 
a genial condition of the atmosphere. 
Trees to Afford Ripe Fruit Early in July. —The lights, if they 
have been removed, may be replaced at the end of the month, as the 
house must be closed by February 1st. Prune the trees if not already 
done, merely cutting out any old attenuated growths and where too 
crowded, leave no more than will cover the space evenly with bearing 
wood, with sufficient space between for training in the young wood of 
the future crop. Beyond cutting back extensions to originate growths 
for properly furnishing the trees, there will be no need to shorten the 
bearing wood, as it will be ripened to its point, but if the wood be not 
thoroughly ripe and the shoots are long, they may be cut back to firm 
wood, and always to a wood bud or triple bud, making sure that the 
centre one is a wood bud, leaving a sufficient length of shoot for fruit¬ 
ing. It is. however, a poor sign to have to cut back the bearing wood 
through unripeness, or for any purpose other than the origination of 
the shoots necessary to furnish the trees. If there have been any in¬ 
sects dress with an insecticide. Our house has had the lights off (and 
they will not be put on until the end of the month or early in next), 
and there does not appear any trace of anything requiring the use of an 
insecticide, but we shall syringe the trees with a solution of 2 ozs. softsoap 
to a gallon of water, and 1 oz. soda to 4 gallons, adding a wineglassful 
of petroleum, keeping it well mixed whilst being applied. The trees 
must be secured to the trellis, the border surface dressed, everything 
being put into order. If the lights have not been removed it may be 
necessary to water the border, if need be repeatedly, to insure 
thorough moisture throughout. After closing syringe the trees twice a 
day, turning on the heat in the morning for an hour or two, or to raise 
the temperature to 50°, and keep it that through the day, above v'hich 
ventilate freely, not allowing an advance to 65° without full ventilation, 
and at night fire heat should only be used to prevent the temperature 
■falling below 40°. 
Late Houses. —There ought not to be any further delay in getting 
the houses and trees cleansed, the pruning and tying done, and the 
borders dressed. If the lights are o£E let them remain off until the buds 
are advanced in swelling, but not beyond showing colour or hardly so 
far, as they are then not safe from injury by frost, and if on ventilate 
freely in favourable weather, as bright weather causes the buds to swell 
rapidly, and the object should be to retard the flowering as much as 
possible, which particularly applies to unheated structures. See that 
the borders are in a thoroughly moist state, giving repeated waterings 
if necessary to insure the efficient moistening of the soil to the drainage. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Bulls. —Carefully go through all the late Hyacinths, Tulips, and 
Narcissi, and remove from the plunging material all that are sufficiently 
advanced. These should be placed in cold frames where it is desirable 
to keep them as late as possible. After they have been gradually ex¬ 
posed to light place the latest flowering varieties in frames with a 
northern aspect, where the lights can be thrown off during favourable 
weather. In case of severe frost it will be necessary to protect the 
bulbs by covering the frames at night. Those not ready for removal 
from the plunging material should have a little litter spread on the 
surface, so that they can be removed when ready, even if severe frost 
sets in. Do not hurry Scilla sibirica or Crocuses ; if they are kept in a 
temperature of 45° they will soon flower. Border Narcissi should be 
kept close to the glass and brought forward steadily, otherwise the 
foliage is drawn up weakly. 
Hardy Shrubs .—Now Chrysanthemums have nearly ceased flower¬ 
ing large pots will be plentiful, therefore the remainder of the stock of 
Rhododendrons, Ghent and Mollis Azaleas, and similar plants should 
be lifted and potted without delay, p'acing them in late vineries and 
Peach houses until they are wanted. Those that have flowered should 
be thoroughly hardened before they are planted out. If they have made 
young growth remove it, so as to compel the plants to push again under 
natural conditions. Place the plants in vineries or other positions 
where the houses can be thrown wide open, and from these they may 
be transferred outside with safety. Pot Spiraea japonica, and plunge a 
few dozen plants behind a north wall, as they will be found useful for 
cutting or even decorati.on indoors after the stock in favourable posi¬ 
tions outside has ceased flowering. 
Lilacs .—As these lose their flowers cut them close back, and if allowed 
to commence growth in cold frames or a cool house they will make shoots 
sufficiently strong to flower another year, that is if they are already 
established in pots. If the plants need shifting into larger pots this can 
be done either when they are pruned or as soon as they break into 
growth. Give the smallest possible shift only, and use for a compost 
loam, sand, and one-seventh of decayed manure. 
Intermediate Stocks .—These have wintered so far extremely well ; 
they are in better condition than we have had them for some years, 
owing to the absence of severe frost and the abundance of air we have 
been able to admit to the plants. Place all the best at once into 5 and 
G-irich pots. After potting arrange them in a cool house, from which 
frost can be excluded. If these advantagss can be provided in a frame 
it will suit them even better. Encourage sturdy growth by giving air 
abundantly, and be careful not to overwater them. Stocks do well in a 
compost of loam two parts, to one of leaf mould, sand, and a little 
manure. 
Tree Catenations. —Cuttings may be inserted from plants that have 
been grown cool, and have sturdy shoots upon them. Insercthe cuttings 
in 7-inch pots in sandy soil, and cover with bellglasses. If the pots are 
stood in a temperature of 60°, where slight bottom heat can be given 
them, they will root quickly and freely. Directly they are rooted 
gradually expose them to the air of the house and pot them singly. 
Leave them for a fortnight where they are rooted, and then remove 
them to an intermediate temperature, finally to a cool house. Be careful 
not to check them by removal into houses with a lower temperature. 
Hellebores .—Plants that have been forced into flower indoors should 
not be replanted outside unless they can have the protection of hand- 
lights or a frame. They succeed admirably and will flower freely 
enough next year if encouraged to grow indoors in pots, and are then 
planted outside during showery weather at the end of May. Those 
forced this year shou'd not be lifted and forced again another year. 
They may be flowered under frames or handlights. 
Chrysanthemums .—The earliest cuttings inserted will be sufficiently 
rooted for potting singly. Place them in 3-inch pots and stand them in 
a cool house from which frost only is excluded. Keep the house close 
for ten days or a fortnight until they commence root activity. For 
bushes and decorative purposes generally insert cuttings from time 
to time as they can be had. These may be inserted in light soil in 
boxes covered with squares of glass. Leave a little clear space 
between the foliage and the glass. The boxes containing the cuttings 
may be placed in any structure that is kept close, say 45° to 50°. Good 
cuttings will root without damping under these conditions. 
THE “ HALLAMSHIRE ” AND OTHER GLASS 
SECTIONS. 
I noticed the kind remarks of “ Felix ” in the issue for 
December 27th, and I beg to assure him that my glass sections can 
be produced quite as cheaply as the wooden ones now being imported 
from America. A child can make them with tools that will not cost 
more than 2s. ; in fact I am considering about putting a complete outfit 
on the market for Is. Thus each bee-keeper will make his own, and 
be quite independent of the supply dealer, who is naturally taking 
alarm at what one of them calls “a universal section factory.” 
Without considering cost, there are several advantages to be gained 
by their use over wood ones, even if they did not compare better with 
them in the market. 
