January 81, 1889. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
91 
if not already acted upon, may be put into operation by those most 
powerful to do good.—S. P. E. S. 
THE TULIP. 
(Continued from page 71.') 
Tiie old Tulip growers always planted their beds with seven 
rows of bulbs. There were two beds parallel to each other 
4 feet wide with an alley 18 inches wide between them. The outer 
rows are 3 inches from the margin of the beds, and the other five 
rows 7 inches between each row. They are also arranged in the 
rows according to the height they grow to, and are first, second, 
third, and fourth row flowers. The fanciers also arrange the 
colours so that they have a good effect to the eye. Suppose there 
are the usual seven rows in the bed they would be planted as 
follows :— 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose. 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
Byb. 
Biz. 
Rose 
The growers do not use labels, but have a book corresponding 
with the bulbs. The names are written in the book according to 
the rows in the bed. The Tulip likes a rich deep soil, and acting 
on this assumption I trench the ground 2 feet deep, working in 
plenty of good decayed manure. I place on the surface of the beds 
about 6 inches of maiden loam, and in this the bulbs are planted 
about the first week in November, placing a little sharp sand over 
and under each bulb. It is only fair to add that some of the northern 
growers delay the time of planting until December. They know 
best the peculiar nature of their own soil and climate, and allege 
that when the bulbs are planted late they grow away at once, and 
are not liable to be injured through lying dormant in the cold wet 
soil, as they might be if planted earlier. In the palmy days of the 
Tulip fancy all the growers north and south gave protection to 
their Tulip beds. The usual plan was to erect a wooden frame¬ 
work over the beds, over which was stretched a canvas covering, 
made to roll up or be let down at pleasure by means of cords and 
pulleys. The framework is built on the span-roofed system, and 
is high enough to allow of a person walking underneath. This 
arrangement was used when the Tulips were in bloom. To protect 
them from frost after they appeared above ground in January iron 
rods were bent over the beds, over which close mats were thrown 
on frosty nights. I have grown a collection of the best named 
Tulips for nearly twenty years, and have no hesitation in saying it 
is perfectly hardy if it is planted on well-drained ground, and the 
beds raised at least 6 inches. 
If the plants are weakened by too much winter protection they 
do not stand the cold so well later on. Our beds have no protec¬ 
tion of any kind, and we never fail to get a good bloom. If pro¬ 
tection is thought to be necessary some arrangement of glass lights 
is far and away the best. The Rev. F. D. Horner grows his Tulips 
in a cold district in Yorkshire, and has a glass house built specially 
for them with moveable lights. I fancy one cause why the culture 
of the Tulip was given up might be traced to the untidy way in 
which the garden was kept, owing to the continual litter caused by 
old mats, canvas, &c., lying about with their necessary supports. 
Tulip flowers are very fragile, and are easily injured by heavy 
rains or hailstorms, and if they are intended for exhibition they 
must be protected in some way. An easy and simple arrangement 
consists of a light framework, upon which some glass lights can be 
laid, with a width of tiffany round the upright sides and ends. In 
sunny weather the glass may also be shaded with tiffany. 
Probably some admirers of hardy plants may say that too much 
is made of the markings and colours of the Tulip, and might object 
to cultivate a flower that required so much trouble ; but this may 
be expected. It is nothing new to be told that Primroses, Cow¬ 
slips, and Daffodils are more beautiful than Tulips. I make no 
comparisons of this sort. I like to see all of them in their season. 
The florists have been ridiculed from time immemorial. Addison 
satirised the Tulip growers in “ The Tatler,” 140 years ago. He 
found out that the Tulips “ received all their value for their rarity 
and oddness, and put me in mind of your great fortunes, which are 
not always the greatest beauties and further, he says, “ I have 
often looked upon it as a piece of happiness that I have never 
fallen into any of these fantastical tastes, nor esteemed anything 
the more for its being uncommon, and hard to be met with.” The 
elegant English essayist had just been looking on a bed of Tulips 
in flower 20 yards in length and 2 in breadth, which its owner 
valued “ more than he would the best hundred acres of land in 
England,” and added that it would have been worth twice the 
money it is if a foolish cookmaid had not almost ruined him last 
winter by mistaking a handful of Tulip roots for a heap of Onions, 
“ and by that means,” says he, “ made me a dish of porridge that 
cost me above a thousand pounds sterling.”—J. Douglas. 
PLANTING SEAKALE 
Generally this work is delayed until the ground is in workable 
condition, towards the middle or end of March ; but on all light or 
moderately light soils there is not the slightest necessity for deferring 
the operation to a busy time, when they can be carried out with 
equal if not better results earlier in the season. Seakale may be 
planted at once, as the preparation of the ground upon which it is 
to be grown proceeds. If it is to be established for forcing on the 
ground this should be deeply dug and liberally manured, unless the 
soil selected has been recently trenched, then digging one spit 
deep will do very well. For years we have lifted the whole of the 
roots and forced them in the Mushroom house or other positions, 
and all things considered this is the most economical method, besides 
giving every opportunity for changing crops. With this object in view 
the ground selected has generally been deeply dug the previous year, 
and a crop of early Potatoes and Yeitch’s Autumn Giant Cauli¬ 
flower taken off it. The ground is dug one spit deep and liberally 
manured ; as the work proceeds the roots are dibbled-in, 18 inches 
apart, and about 15 inches from root to root. Planting can be 
done without treading upon the ground before the crowns show 
through in spring and disbudding is needed. The best crown is 
then left to each plant, and the soil firmed about them as the work 
of disbudding proceeds. The hoe is run through the ground, and 
checks the growth of weeds while they are in a small state. 
This may seem a small matter, but attention to work that can be 
done now assists wonderfully in the accomplishment of the many 
duties that press heavily later in the year.—S. 
SOME GOOD PRIMULAS. 
Amongst those who have for many years given close attention to 
the improvement of Primula sinensis and its varieties Messrs. J. Carter 
and Co. of High Holborn have taken a prominent position, the most re¬ 
cent results of their labours being admirably shown in the exhibition of 
these plants now provided in the nursery at Perry Hill. An enormous 
quantity of seed is required every year, necessitating ample provision 
of seed-bearing plants, and considerable space is accorded popular 
plants of this description in the houses at the nursery named. About 
6000 Primulas are grown, three new span-roof houses, which occupy the 
site of the old conservatory, being filled, besides several others ; but the 
bulk of the stock is in a span house 150 feet long, which furnishes an 
excellent display of plants. The total length of 4-feet staging thus 
occupied is 640 feet, and it can be imagined that' the exhibition is 
an imposing one. Besides improving the flower in form and size, and 
increasing the variations in rich or soft tints, the habit of the plants has 
also received much attention with favourable results. A dwarf, com¬ 
pact, “ stocky ” habit of growth now distinguishes them all, the foliage 
well developed without being coarse, and the flower heads sufficiently 
raised above the leaves to be well seen without appearing drawn. 
Countless crossings and a long continued process of selection has pro¬ 
duced the present types, but advance is still being made yearly. Few 
perhaps recognise tbe difficulty of “ fixing ” strains or varieties of such 
plants as Chinese Primulas, which have been subjected to artificial 
crossing during a number of years. The stability of the plant’s 
characters seem to be quite upset, and the variability thus, induced 
breaks out in an unaccountable manner, even when the greatest care is 
taken to prevent it. Several interesting experiments tried by Messrs. 
Carter & Co. last year prove this conclusively, though no proof is needed 
by the initiated. 
It is difficult to make a selection where all are good, but the follow¬ 
ing varieties are amongst the best in the Perry Hill collection. 
SINGLE VARIETIES. 
IlolbornSlush (Fern leaf).—Flowers large, well formed, of good sub¬ 
stance, in compact heads, opening white, but gradually assuming a 
delicate blush tint. From the same stock a pretty rose-coloured variety 
has been raised, but is as yet unfixed or named. 
Holborn Rioby (Fern leaf).—A pleasing flower, opening pale rose, 
subsequently assuming a rich deep rose tint. Good compact habit. 
Holborn Elaine (Fern leaf).—A handsome and useful variety, 
curiously enough obtained from a cross between crimson and purple 
varieties. The flowers are massive, beautifully fringed, pure ivory 
white, the leafstalks and stems dark. 
Holborn Magenta (round leaf).—This also opens of a pale tint, but 
afterwards becomes a rich crimson magenta, most effective. The 
change of colour after opening is a peculiarity of many Primulas, and 
the first flowers expanded often convey a very imperfect idea of the 
varietal characters. 
Holborn Pearl (round leaf). — In well developed flowers of this 
variety the predominating white of the corolla appears to be underlaid 
