9G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 31, 1889, 
In short, there is no time during the whole year but when 
the bees by their movements fortell the coming weather, particu¬ 
larly in spring, which by paying attention with them, the thermo¬ 
meter, and barometer, no gardener need be taken unawares, but 
will at all times be prepared by proper action to prevent tender 
plants being destroyed through unexpected frosts. 
Some bees differ greatly from others in their habits. The Syrian 
and the Cyprians seem more sensitive than some varieties of 
approaching storms, while it is the rule, too, with some varieties 
not to leave the hive in greater numbers that what will not reduce 
the temperature of the hive too much. Cyprians will sometimes 
venture abroad in such numbers, leaving but few bees with their 
queen behind, that if a sudden blast comes on the hive is depopu¬ 
lated and nev^r can recover itself. This is one reason why 
Cyprians are not well adapted for this country ; but all varieties 
more or less prognosticate the coming weather. Of equal import¬ 
ance, too, is it to know by their appearance their wants and 
strength or number within the hive, so that none will be unprofit¬ 
able. A little experience will soon teach the greatest tyro all that 
is necessary and reveal the secrets of the industrious bees. I will 
in a future article give hints concerning bees at swarming time and 
how to hive them ; meanwhile bee-keepers should keep a sharp 
look out and guard against damp inside the hive, which is prevalent 
in many hives managed with solid wooden floors.—A Lanarkshire 
Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Wra. Clibran & Son, 10 and 12, Market Street, Manchester.— Catalogue 
of Vegetable aud^ Flower Seeds for 1889. 
Bruant, Poitiers (Vienne), France.— List of Novelties, 1889. 
James Cocker & Sons, 59, St, Nicholas Street, Aberdeen.— Descriptive 
Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 
J. Lambert & Son, Treves.— Catalogue of Seeds. 
W. R. Woodcock, Syston, near Leicester.— Select List of Chrysan¬ 
themums. 
Wm. Leighton, 89, Union Street, Glasgow.— Seed List. 
J. B. Pearson & Sons, 2, Exchange Row, Nottingham.— Garden 
Seeds, 1889. 
James R. Pitcher, United States Nurseries, Short Hills, New Jersey.— 
Catalogue of Cypripediums, 1889. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, an& should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Contributions. — In consequence of the great pressure on our 
columns this week the publication of several valuable articles is post¬ 
poned ; they are not the less appreciated on that account, and we ex¬ 
press our obligations to the contributors. 
Books on Orcbids (II. Leicester'). — There are few cheap works 
on Orchids. You will find Mr. B. S. Williams’s “ Orchid Growers’ 
Manual ” a reliable and thorough work, if it is not too expensive for 
you. The four parts of Messrs. Veitch & Sons’ “ Manual of Orchid¬ 
aceous Plants” are also very useful. Mr. L. Castle’s little work on 
Orchids has been extended, and a fourth edition is now in the press. 
It will be issued shortly. 
Tlie Chrysanthemum Annual (Amateur). —The edition for 
1889 is nearly ready, and will contain all the information you 
require. 
Mushrooms ( TV. Cresswell). — The specimens you have sent are very 
fine indeed, and your note will be published. Our pages were full to 
overflowing on its arrival this week. 
A Blue Rose (II. V. M.). —We have no knowledge of a variety 
bearing the name you give, but there has been some correspondence on a 
similar subject in the American horticultural papers. 
Gardenias not Flowering- (Slienley). —Assuming the plants are 
clean and healthy, and the roots plentiful in good soil, we think the 
non-expansion of the buds is due to a low temperature, and flowers 
may be expected when the heat increases 10°, 55° at night being too- 
low for active growth. It is possible also the roots may have received 
a check by cold, or an excess or insufficiency of water. 
Questions and Communications ( IV. S.). — We are always 
ready to answer questions, and trust our replies will be of service Yon 
have taken no “ liberty ” in either seeking to obtain information or in 
endeavouring to impart it. You need not hesitate to write when you. 
need a little assistance yourself, or can give a hint to others that you 
have found useful in your practice. 
Cleansing Peach Trees (J. G.).— If you had read our “Work 
for the Week” columns you would have seen, on page 77, last issue, 
instructions on this subject. The ingredients there mentioned will 
destroy scale, but in the case indicated the solution was to be used as a 
preventive. If your trees are much infested with scale, and quite dor- 
mant, you may double the quantity of petroleum, and apply with a 
brush to the wood only, not to the buds. 
The Black Radish (A. 2?.).—The variety to which you refer is 
the Long Black Spanish Winter Radish, which belongs to a class dis¬ 
tinguished by their firm compact roots, which keep through a eood part 
of the winter without sproutiQg The one in question grows from 6 to 
9 inches long, wuh a root shaped somewhat like a Carrot. There is also 
a black round-rooted variety known as the Black Spanish Winter 
Turnip Radish. The roots are usually lifted in November and stored in 
a dry situation under cover. 
Roses in Conservatory (T. F. M.). —Allowing the shoots to grow 
into a “ thick mass ” on the roof in summer is prejudicial. Most of the 
best cultivators thin out the growths freely after flowering, retaining, 
the most promising and training them 8 inches to a foot apart, some 
more, when they are strong with large foiiage. If that is not done over¬ 
crowded growths should be thinned out now, removing the weak and 
retaining the strong, which need only be shortened for accommodating 
them to the space at disposal. According to your description of them 
your Roses require to be thinned considerably, yet judiciously, now, and 
they should be further thinned freely, yet with care, after flowering 
in the summer, in order that the leaves on the best growths can have 
full exposure to the light; the wood will then ripen, bold buds form, and 
good blooms follow, if the p'ants are well supported and kept scrupu¬ 
lously free from insects. 
Barllest Carrots (E. T. 17.). — French Forcing is the earliest 
variety, and the Early Scarlet Horn you allude to is also a few days: 
earlier than the Nantes Horn. The latter, however, is by far the most 
profitable variety, one good sized bed being capable of furnishing a very 
long succession of handsome tender roots, not unfrequently lasting 
through the winter. When sown somewhat thinly no thinning out is 
needed till the forwardest roots are fit for use, aDd this method of thin¬ 
ning out may be continued as long as there are any available, those left 
continuing to grow in all but frosty weather. Why not sow a pinch of 
either of the small early varieties just named, and a good breadth of the 
Nantes Horn ? Supposing the seed is sown on light soil, and in a fairly 
sheltered position now, it may be possible to commence pulling roots for 
use early in June. Much, however, depends upon the weather, some 
seasons being a fortnight or three weeks earlier than others. 
Spireeas (S. M.). —As your plants make good progress until they 
commence flowering, and the leaves then “ turn brown and curl up,”' 
we opine they do not have the support that is necessary for maintain¬ 
ing them in a satisfactory state. A high temperature is not required, 
but an adequate supply of water is imperative, with clear weak liquid 
manure when the flower spikes are extending, especially if the plants- 
are large and pots small. Firm potting is desirable, and when the- 
plants are in full growth it is not easy to give them too much water, 
and certainly the soil must never get so dry as to shrink from the sides, 
of the pots in the slightest degree. They should be stood on a close 
moist base, and if they have to be arranged on a dry open stage stand 
them in saucers, apply water to the soil to drain through into them, 
and when it vanishes, and before the saucers are dry, give more water. 
The plants should be kept free from insect? by syringing them as 
frequently and forcibly as is necessary for that purpose with clear 
water, as fumigating with tobacco paper injures the foliage. 
Cytisuses Failing (R. J .).—We have received the sprays you 
have sent, one of them quite healthy, the other quite the reverse, 
the flowers falling, buds shrinking, and leaves drooping. A third 
spray you say is taken from a plant, one side of which is hsalthy,. 
the opposite “ going off.” Your letter does not enab e us to deter¬ 
mine the cause of the collapse. The plants you say were healthy 
when taken from the cool vinery on January 10th, but “ went 
wrong soon after they were placed in a conservatory where the 
temperature ranges from 15° to 50°. We have no means of know- 
ing in what respect the atmospheric conditions of the two struc¬ 
tures vary, but the sprays show the plants have received a severe 
