11G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 7, 1889. 
must not be expected that quite young seedlings will rival older plants 
from tubers now stored in boxes, but if well grown they will be very 
effective in the front rows or in small beds. Capital bedding strains are 
advertised by various seedsmen, and these, being of sturdy habit, as 
well as more erect flowering, are better suited for the flower beds than 
the majority of plants raised from seed taken from plants in pots. In 
any case new seed should receive the preference, this invariably ger¬ 
minating more quickly and strongly than does old seed. Mixed beds are 
very attractive, but bedding Begonias can be procured in distinct colours 
if needed. Either pans or well-drained pots may be used for the 
purpose of raisin; the seedlings, and abundance of the finest leaf soil 
should be mixed with fine loam, a sprinkling of silver sand completing 
the mixture most suitable for filling these, A smooth surface is neces¬ 
sary, and if the soil is at all dry it should be carefully moistened a few 
flours prior to sowing the seed. Dispense with the orthodox surfacing 
of sand, this failing to support the tiny seedlings at a critical period of 
growth. Sow the seed evenly on che surface of the soil, and do not 
cover it in any way. Plunge the pots or pans in gentle hotbed, cover 
with squares of glass and shade heavily till the seedlings are seen, when 
both the glass and shade must gradually be dispened with. No water 
ought to be needed before the seed has germinated, and in any case 
watering is liable to dislodge either the seed or the plants. At the same 
time dryness must be guarded against, and the soil may safely be 
moistened by partially immersing the pans or pots in a tank or bucket 
of warm water. As fast as the seedlings become large enough to handle 
they ought to be carefully dibbled out in pans of fine light soil, succes- 
sional plants being thus obtained from one sowing. On no account 
neglect the latest or most weakly plants, these not unfrequently being 
the choicest varieties. Keep the seedlings growing in gentle heat, and 
eventually transfer them from the pans into boxes of good loamy soil, 
disposing them about 4 inches apart each way.—W. F. 
PRUNING AND TRAINING PLUMS. 
There are no great mysteries connected with the pruning and train¬ 
ing of these trees. Fan-shaped trees are usually preferred for low or 
moderately high walls, and if any high house walls are to be covered the 
branches are similarly trained till the lower branches nearly reach the 
sides or limits, when all are trained perpendicularly. The principal aim 
should be to cover the whole of the space evenly with branches about 
8 inches apart, perfection of form being quite a secondary consideration. 
Young trees should be planted just as they are received from the 
nurseries, with the exception of removing bruised roots and cleanly 
cutting the jagged ends of those otherwise injured. Plant in good 
fresh loamy soil and rather kLk. All the branches should be laid in 
to their full length, the centre of the tree being kept open. In all 
probability very little growth was formed on trees thus treated last year, 
but they will grow away strongly next summer, and be far ahead of any 
that might have been cut back when first planted. Subsequent winter 
treatment consists of laying in all leading growths to their full length, 
and a branch from the upper side of these where they are needed for 
clothing unoccupied space. Sometimes it is necessary to shorten or cut 
out very gross shoots, these being liable to take an undue lead and 
disfigure the tree. These ought really to have been checked in the 
summer. Not till the trees have covered much of the wall space should 
the centre be closed up, central branches being almost certain to grow 
too vigorously. Firm, unshortened branches will flower freely during 
the second year, and buds are plentifully produced on the spurs attached 
to the older wood. All lateral growth, whether summer pinched or not, 
ought to be shortened to within three or four buds or joints of their 
starting point. Left much longer than this long ugly spurs are formed, 
and these do not derive much benefit from the warm walls. Where 
these long spurs already exist a portion of them may each winter be 
freely shortened back to buds much nearer the main branches. If 
strong, well-ripened shoots have formed near the base of old trees—a not 
unfrequent occurrence—it is advisable to lay in some of these to their 
full length for the purpose of taking the place of older or much- 
stunted branches. These are of great service in renewing the lower 
portion of a tree that has become unduly weak owing to the central 
branches taking too strong a lead. Naked portions of old branches may 
also be covered with young shoots, if fortunately any of these are 
available, in order that every portion of valuable wall space be ful y 
utilised. Cordons to be pruned in much the same way as advised in the 
•case of fan or irregularly trained trees.—I. 
WORK .mi™ WEEK.. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Melons. —Add a little soil as a top-dressing as the plants advance, 
keeping them near the glass, but do not allow them to become 
stunted for want of root room. Shift those intended ior trellises into 
larger pots as they require it, training them with a single stem, supplying 
each with a stake, to which the plants should be secured as they 
advance, removing all laterals and tendrils up to the height of stem 
required to reach the trellis. Those intended to run over the surface of 
the bed in pits should have the head pinched out at the second rough 
leaf, and instead of shifting into larger pots they maybe planted in their 
permanent quarters either before or after stopping. Keep a sharp look 
out for slugs. A ring of soot or lime placed around the stem at a little 
distance will generally preserve them, but lay baits for them so as to 
entrap the pests. Brewers’ grains or scalded bran covered over with 
Cabbage or Lettuce leaves form an excellent bait for both slugs and 
woodlice. 
Figs. — Earliest Trees in Pots. —These are now in full growth ; the 
points of the shoots must be pinched out when they have made a growth 
of about 5 inches. Continue a temperature of 55° to 60° at night and 
63° by day, advancing to 75° with sun heat, closing early and allowing 
an advance to 80° or 85°. In dull weather give a little extra fire heat in 
the early part of the day, so as to allow of ventilation, if only for an 
hour or two. to give a change of atmosphere. Keep the bottom heat 
steady at 73°, introducing fresh leaves as necessary. Syringe frequently 
to keep rel spider in check, and always sufficiently early in the after¬ 
noon to allow of the foliage becoming dry before night. Regularly 
supply water and liquid manure to the roots of the trees. 
Early Planted-out Trees. —When the trees have commenced growth 
raise the temperature slightly both at night and by day, 55° being 
suitable by night and 60° to 65° by day, with a rise of from 5° to 10° 
from sun heat. Syringe twice a day on fine days, but on dull days 
morning syringing, or, when very dull, damping available surfaces 
about the house will be sufficient, ventilating on all favourable occasions, 
as a drawn and weakly growth cannot afterwards be rectified ; therefore 
seek a sturdy, short-jointed growth from the commencement. Mulch 
borders with partially decayed manure in a lumpy state ; through the 
mulchings waterings in a tepid state may be given as necessary. 
Second Early Trees. —Where there is more than one Fig house a 
second may now be started. The strong old growths have been cut out 
so as to leave the terminals for furnishing the first crop, and they have 
been dressed with an insecticide. Render the border thoroughly moist 
by repeated waterings, or in the case of restricted borders with liquid 
manure at 80°. Syringe the trees occasionally, also keeping all available 
surfaces damped twice a day. A temperature of 50° at night and 53° 
by day is sufficient to commence with, advancing to 63° from sun heat. 
Pines. —Continue the treatment advised in our last calendar under 
that head to those plants recently started into fruit. The plants if in 
good condition at the roots will produce strong suckers. When the 
suckers are large enough to handle, all, except one to each plant, should 
have the growth checked by taking out the centres. 
To supplement the autumn-potted plants select others which have 
been wintered in 7 or 8-inch pots, choosing the most vigorous plants. 
Reserve the remainder until the general spring potting, when they can 
be shaken out and treated similarly to suckers. Good fibrous loam with 
the turf reduced, or the erass and any larvae killed, may be tom up 
in a suitable compost, adding about a quart of soot to every bushel, and 
a similar quantity of some approved fertiliser. If the turf has been laid 
up it must be had under cover to become dried. Drain the pots 
moderately but efficiently, dusting with wood ashes or soot so as to 
exclude worms, keeping the stems well down in the pots, ram the soil 
firmly round the stems, leaving sufficient space to admit of copious sup¬ 
plies of water being given when necessary. For Queens use 10-inch pots, 
and 11 or 12-inch pots are suitable for those of stronger or more robust 
growth. A temperature of 60° or 65° will be sufficient for these plants, 
also for those potted last autumn ; and 80° to 85° at the roots. Plants 
in beds about to be started into fruit must not have the heat at the base 
of the pots over 90° or 95°, or their roots will be injured. If sufficient 
fruit be started to meet the requirements later successional plants that 
have not been subjected to a high temperature may be advanced slowly 
—they, with autumn-potted suckers, requiring careful watering, especi¬ 
ally where the heat at the roots is supplied by fermenting materials. 
Cherry House. — Of all fruit trees the Cherry is the most impatient 
of he it in the early stage of growth, especially when the ventilation is 
indifferent. Commence ventilating at 50°, allowing an increase of 13°, 
with proportionately increased ventilation, closing the house at 50° ; 
45° being sufficient by day artificially, and 40° at night. See that there 
is no deficiency of moisture in the border, giving a thorough supply of 
water when necessary. Those in pots will require more frequent atten¬ 
tion. Syringe early on fine days, and damp the surface of the borders 
whenever they become dry, covering with a layer of partially decayed 
manure about a couple of inches thick and lumpy. Keep a sharp look 
out for aphides, and fumigate directly the pest appears. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Forcing. —This is becoming daily more easy, and the produce is 
gaining strength and flavour which it did not possess a month ago. 
Rhubarb roots need not now be lifted to force, as if old casks or boxes 
are turned upside down over the crowns, and a bed of hot manure 
formed round these, growth will be both rapid and satisfactory. All 
February and March Rhubarb may be forced in this way. Where 
Rhubarb roots are too abundant they may be most profitably disposed 
of at this time by forcing them and sellin; the produce. The same re¬ 
marks apply to Seakale. In December and January it was no easy 
matter to force the roots without lifting them and putting them in a 
warm situation, but now the pots may be placed over them, and the 
hot manure applied round them with every certainty of bringing good 
Seakale. Some use tiles or old boxes, but the proper pots are the best. 
