February 7, 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
119 
tulbs we found there were few roots in comparison with those plants 
that expanded their flowers. The roots in the case mentioned had been 
devoured by the bulb mite. Drought is another and certain cause of 
failure. In some cases the evil is due to lifting the bulbs before they 
have matured their growth. We believe a severe check either before 
the bulbs have completed their growth or during the season of growth 
the following spring will bring about the evil in question. Tulips are 
naturally subject to aphides, but the insects were in your house pre¬ 
viously ready to attack the growths of the plants. In addition to 
fumigating you could dip the foliage in a weak solution of tobacco 
water, or dust with tobacco powder, syringing afterwards. 
Growing Asters In Pots ( 0 . JR. $).—Sow the seed during March 
or early April (as you require the plants to bloom early or late) in pans, 
lacing in gentle heat as that of a hotbed. When the plants appear 
eep them near the glass, and well ventilated to prevent drawing. Pot 
them singly in 3-inch pots, returning to the hotbed, and keeping rather 
close and shaded until established. After this admit air freely, the 
main points being to keep them slowly growing, and not allowing them 
to become potbound before shifting into larger pots. If sown in March 
the plants will be strong and well hardened off by the beginning of 
May. An 8-inch pot will meet the requirements of single plants, a 
9-inch trebles, and a 10-inch or 11-inch will answer for five plants. 
The soil may be composed of three parts turfy loam and a third of 
thoroughly decayed manure or leaf soil. The plants should be potted 
rather firmly in well-drained pots, and have a light and open situation 
if continued under glass, which we do not advise, but would assign 
them a sheltered position outdoors under ashes. After the plants fill 
the pots with roots water them with weak liquid manure. If sown 
during early April the p'ants will require their largest pots by the close 
of May or early in June. 
Pelargoniums Failing—Abutilons Dropping their Flowers 
— Conservatory Pipes (W. R. O .).—Your “Geraniums” (Zonal 
Pelargoniums we presume) were severely checked, but in what -way we 
cannot tell. You have not stated the conditions under which they 
were grown in the greenhouse. From what you say we are inclined to 
think the check arose through removing the plants from one house to 
another different in character. If they had been standing on a moisture¬ 
holding base their removal to an open latticework stage would be 
sufficient to cause the evil of which you complain. If the conservatory 
had been recently painted that might cause the flowers and foliage to 
fail. It is just possible they were starved, or the roots may have been 
much too dry at the base of the pots while the surface of the soil 
appeared moist. This is one of the evils the grower of plants on open 
latticework stages over hot-water pipes has to contend against. Plants 
also suffer through being too far from the glass and a deficiency of 
light. If by “plate g ass” you mean rough or ribbed glass, over which 
artificial shading is dispensed with in summer, it is not suitable for the 
flowering of Pelargoniums and other plants in winter, the shade being 
too great. To grow these Pelargoniums well under glass during the 
summer they need full exposure to light and abundance of air, as 
well as liberal supplies of water and liquid manure, and for flowering 
in winter they cannot possibly have too much light, with a temperature 
of 50° or thereabouts. Assuming the border is properly drained, the 
most probable cause of your Abutilons dropping their flowers is a too 
low temperature for flowering during the winter. They must have a 
minimum temperature of 55° ; but if the glass is not clear that will 
account in some respects for the flowers falling, though the main cause 
is the temperature being too low. You appear to ventilate the house in a 
very injudicious manner. Leaving the ventilators open at night might 
with great advantage he dispensed with, and through the winter 
months air should only be admitted during the day when the weather is 
mild and genial. The most economical plan now that your pipes are 
fixed is to cover the latticework stage with zinc, and then place on it a 
layer of gravel or other moisture-holding material that would not be 
objectionable in appearance. It can be kept in position by neat side 
strips of wood an inch or two deep. This would prevent steam rising to 
the plants when watering, and provide at the same time a base that 
would prevent their dying so rapidly at their roots both during the 
winter and summer. If the pipes are sufficient to heat the house where 
they are we should not remove them; if they are not sufficient for 
maintaining a temperature of 45° at night in severe weather without 
keeping the water boiling for having them very hot, we should add 
others as you propose. Unduly limiting piping in glass structures con¬ 
siderably increases the expenditure in fuel. 
Newtown Pippin (Z. M .~).—The following description and par¬ 
ticulars from the “Fruit Manual” will furnish the information you 
require:—“Fruit, medium sized; roundish, broadest at the base, with 
broad obscure ribs extending to the apex, which give it an irregularity 
in its outline. Skin, at first dull green, but changing as it ripens to a 
fine olive green or greenish yellow, with a reddish brown tinge next the 
sun, and dotted all over with small grey russety dots. Eye, small and 
closed, set in a small and rather shallow basin. Stamens, median ; 
tube, conical. Stalk, half an inch long, slender, and inserted all its 
length in a deep round cavity lined with delicate russet, which extends 
over a portion of the base. Flesh, yellowish white tinged with green, 
firm, crisp, very juicy, with a rich and highly aromatic flavour. Cells, 
obovate ; axile. A dessert Apple, which, when in perfection, is not to 
be surpassed. It is in use from December to April. This description 
being taken from an imported specimen, it must not be expected that 
fruit grown in this country will obtain the same perfection ; for, like 
most of the best American Apples, it does not succeed in this climate. 
Even with the protection of a wall, and in the most favourable situa¬ 
tion, it does not possess that peculiarly rich aroma which characterises 
the imported fruit, The tree is a slender and slow grower, and is- 
always distinguished, even in its young state, by the roughness of its 
bark. It prefers a strong, rich, and genial soil, and, according to Coxe, 
does not arrive at maturity till twenty or twenty-five years old.- This is 
an old American Apple. It originated at Newtown, on Long Island,. 
U.S., and was introduced to this country about the middle of the last 
century. I find it was cultivated in the Brompton Park Nursery so 
early as 1768, under the name of ‘Newtown Pippin from New York.’’ 
Forsyth remarks that it is said to have been originally from Devonshire, 
but if it were so there would still have been some trace of it left in the 
county. It is extensively cultivated in New York and all the middle 
States, and particularly on the Hudson, where the finest American 
orchards are. There are immense quantities produced, which are 
packed in barrels and exported to Britain and other parts. The 
month of January is generally the season they arrive in this country, 
and then they are the most attractive of all dessert Apples in Coventr 
Garden Market, the name serving in many instances as a decoy for 
the sale of many other and inferior varieties. The Alfriston, in many 
collections, is erroneously cultivated under the name of Newtown 
Pippin.” 
Names of Fruits. —The names and addresses of senders of fruit 
to be named must in all cases be enclosed with the specimens, whether 
letters referring to the fruit are sent by post or not. The names are 
not necessarily required for publication, initials sufficing for that. Only 
six specimens can be named at once, and any beyond that number cannot 
be preserved. (./. E. id).—Martin Sire, a delicious Pear when stewed. 
It is now very rare. 
Names of Plants. —We only undertake to name species of plants 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss or soft green leaves form the best packing, dry cotton 
wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once, 
and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligatures, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp. 
(A. TF).—We do not undertake to name varieties of florists’ flowers ; 
they can only be satisfactorily determined by comparison in large trade 
or private collections. (.4. (?.). — Acacia Farnesiana. ( Combs ').— 
1, Ficus elastica ; 2, Sparmannia africana. The other fragments are 
insufficient. 
COYENT GARDEN MARKET.— February 6th. 
No alteration. Trade very quiet. Supply of Grapes lighter. 
FRUIT. 
s. 
d. 
0. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
& 
Apples, 4 sieve.. .. .. 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Lemons, case. 
10 
Oto 15 
o 
„ Nova Sootia and 
Oranges, per 100 .. .. 
4 
0 
9 
0 
Canada, per barrel 
5 
0 
9 
0 
Peaches, dozen. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Oherr e8, J sieve .. .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears, dozen. 
i 
0 
2 
6 
Cobs, 100 lbs. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Plums, 4-sieve. 
0 
0 
0 
» 
Crapes, per lb. M 
0 
9 
8 
0 
St. Michael Fine , each 
2 
0 
6 
VEGETABLES. 
8. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
0. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Artichokes, dozen •• .. 
s 
0 to 8 
0 
Lettuce, dozen .. .. 
0 
9 
to 1 
9 
Asparagus, bundle .. .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Mushrooms, punnet .. 
0 
6 
1 
9 
Beans, Kidney, per lb. .. 
0 10 
0 
0 
Mustard and Cress, punt. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beet, Red, dozen .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
New Potatoes,per owt... 
0 
0 
0 
,9 
Broccoli, bundle .. .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Ouions, bunch. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Brussels Sprouts, \ sieve 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Parsley, dozen bunches 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cabbage,dozen .. .. 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Parsnips, dozen .. .. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Capsicums, per 100 .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Potatoes, per cwt. 
4 
0 
6 
9 
Carrots, bunch •• •• 
U 
4 
0 
0 
,, Kidney, per cwt. 
4 
0 
8 
9 
Cauliflowers, dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Rhubarb, bundle .. .. 
0 
2 
0 
9 
Celery, bundle .. .. 
1 
8 
2 
0 
Salsify, bundle .. 
l 
0 
1 
6 
Coleworts, doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
9corzonero, bundle .. 
1 
6 
0 
O 
Cucumbers', each .. .. 
0 
S 
0 
4 
Shallots, per ft> •• •• 
0 
s 
0 
0 
Endive, dozen. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach, bushel .. .. 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Heros, bunch .. .. 
0 
s 
0 
0 
Tomatoes, per lb. 
0 
8 
1 
9 
Leeks, bunch. 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Turnips, bunch •• •• 
0 
4 
0 
9 
CUT 
FLOWERS. 
8. 
d. 
0 
d. 
S. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Abutilons, 12 bunches .. 
8 
0 to 6 
0 
Li'yof theValley, 12 sprays 
0 
6 to 1 
9 
Arum Lilies, 12 blooms .. 
S 
0 
8 
0 
Marguerites, 12 hunches 
2 
0 
6 
0 
Azalea, 12 sprays .. .. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Mignonette. 12 bunches 
3 
0 
4 
9 
Bouvardias, bunch .. .. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
NarcUBUS (Paper White), 
Camellias, 12 blooms .. 
3 
0 
4 
0 
12 sprays .. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Carnations, 12 blooms .. 
1 
0 
3 
0 
,, (French) bunch 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Christmas Rose .. .. 
9 
6 
2 
0 
Pelargoniums, 12 trusses 
1 
0 
1 
9 
Chrysanthemums, 12 bl... 
1 
0 
3 
0 
„ scarlet, 12 trusses 
9 
0 
15 
9 
„ 12 bchg. 
4 
0 
12 
0 
Poinsettia, dozen blooms 
4 
0 
6 
9 
Cyclamen, dozen blooms 
0 
4 
0 
9 
Primroses, doz. bunohes.. 
1 
0 
s 
9 
Daffodils (single) 12 blooms 0 
9 
1 
6 
Roses, Red, 12 blooms .. 
6 
0 
9 
9 
„ (conele),12Lljoms 0 
8 
1 
0 
,, (indoor), dozen .. 
2 
0 
8 
9 
Eucharis, dozen .. .. 
ft 
0 
8 
0 
,, Tea. dozen .. .. 
2 
0 
8 
9 
Gardenias, 12 blooms .. 
15 
0 
30 
0 
„ yellow . 
8 
0 
8 
9 
Hyacinths (Roman), doz. 
Tuberoses, 12 blooms .. 
1 
6 
8 
0 
spraj a . 
1 
0 
1 
8 
Tulips, dozen blooms .. 
0 
6 
1 
9 
Lapageria, 12 blooms .. 
1 
0 
2 
6 
Violets, 12 bunches.. .. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Lilac, White (French), 
„ Parme (French), 
per bunch . 
5 
0 
7 
0 
per bunch 
8 
8 
S 
O 
Liiinm longiflorum, 12 
,. Dark (French) bch. 
1 
6 
3 
0 
blooms ... 
4 
0 
e 
0 
Wallflowers, doz. bunches 
4 
0 
• 
0 
