140 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Februaiv 14,1889. 
prevent exhibitors “rushing” judges, by staging hives at prices less 
than they usually charged, they sold the hive staged through the 
secretary, and looked to the prize as their source of profit. When the 
judges saw two hives both at one price, they awarded the first prize to 
the one with the most work in it, as they pleaded they had no alterna¬ 
tive. Then this rule was framed, requiring each one to guarantee on 
a, stamped agreement to supply any number of similar articles at the 
prices named for twelve months afterwards. This worked fairly well for 
a, while, but year by year one has cut closer against his neighbour, 
■while at last it is well understood by the initiated that there is no 
means of enforcing the undertaking in the Law Courts, and that it is 
very useful to keep down unlimited competition in the race for the 
prizes by outsiders. Things are thus still staged at less than their value 
and the prizes practically wrested from the hands of the judges. If all 
the goods staged were impounded for twelve months and placed in the 
hands of the secretary, through whom all goods ordered from the various 
■exhibitors had to be sent, so that they could be compared with sample, 
there might be some means of checking it, but as this is not done and 
never can be, it seems to me that the only practicable course would be 
to secure judges thoroughly posted up in mechanical knowledge and 
able to judge correctly the modes and processes of construction. 
I feel that I am doing a great service all round, except just the few, 
in showing what the rule is. I intend to show ; and to show what I 
think about the morality of the rule, I shall increase every shilling value 
By a sovereign, and then “undertake” to supply “any number” at the 
price. Of course, I shall not be “ in it,” but the judges and the public 
■will, if they possess any humour, see that I am laughing at their played- 
out rule. 
I note that up to January 31st the schedule has been published five 
times in another journal. In previous years it has been carefully kept 
from the public as much as possible. Its drafters may well be proud of 
it, for even with the objections I have pointed out it is a credit to them. 
I only wish they could alter it a little and make it perfect. As it is it 
■will stand comparing with the previous ones.— A Hallamshire Bee¬ 
keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIYED. 
Yilmorin, Andrieux, & Cie, 4, Quai de la Mdgisserie, Paris.— General 
•Catalogue of Seeds and Bulbs. 
W. Atlee Burpee & Co., Philadelphia, and 133, Cannon Street, 
London, E.C.— Garden , Farm , and Flower Seeds. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. 
Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened un¬ 
avoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Crushed Spar for Plant Stages ( Cambridge ).—This is much 
^cleaner and neater in appearance than grey gravel, and does not turn 
.green nearly so soon, especially if moved from time to time when the 
plants are being re-arranged. We think it will give you satisfaction. 
SCichardla sethioplca (Young Beginner ).—You do not say where 
you keep the plants.that “go bad,” nor indicate the temperature in 
which they are growing or failing. Many successful cultivators divide 
their plants in early summer, and plant them in rich soil in the open 
garden, some in trenches prepared as if for Celery, watering them well 
in dry weather. In the autumn they are very strong, and are potted in 
September, watering them well, and with good attention the plants 
produce spathes freely during winter and spring. Wil_ free root action 
much water is required by these plants. Perhaps yours are allowed to 
.•get too dry. 
Heavy Soil (A. L. Ml ).—Though Boses do not like very light 
land some soils are too heavy, cold, and wet for their well-being. Yours 
•evidently requires lightening, and anything of a gritty nature would 
impart it, nothing being better than crushed lime rubbish from old 
buildings. Sharp wood ashes are also excellent, and coal ashes would 
do good. Add anything of the nature indicated freely, and do not dig 
the beds with a spade, but a fork, working only when the surface is 
dry, and taking very small slices, not turning over large lumps. Manure, 
consisting largely of half, or less than half, decayed straw, forked in 
carefully every autumn as soon as the leaves fall, would do good, leaving 
the soil exposed to the action of frost in winter and the drying winds 
of spring, not mulching till the approach of hot weather in early 
summer, if then ; but if not mulched the surface must bo stirred fre¬ 
quently with the hoe or oiher implement to prevent cracking or the 
formation of large fissures. A summer mulching of cocoa-nut fibre 
refuse would probably answer as well as manure. Soot is good for strong 
soil, and is an excellent stimulant for Roses. As it is too late for digging 
in strawy manure now we should apply porous material and soot as 
soon as the weather is favourable for forking over the beds ; it is better 
to wait a month for this than to step on and dig them when the soil is 
in a wet adhesive state. Perhaps your garden needs draining. 
Advice on Gardening (X Y. Z.). —Your former letter was not 
preserved, and as have had to attend to hundreds since reading it, we 
may not quite accurately remember its contents So far as we recollect 
you intimated your being in a comfortable situation, and had reason to 
believe were giving satisfaction, gardening being also fairly well carried 
out ; but you complained of not being quite satisfied with yourself, and 
desired advice according to a method you proposed. We naturally 
thought you felt the need of counsel in the better management of some 
particular department. It is not uncommon for even good gardeners to 
encounter difficulties in having to do or produce something different 
from what they have been accustomed, in which case the advice of an 
expert would be valuable. We now gather from your second letter that 
you are not in the position indicated, and cannot point to any special 
subject on which you need guidance, but desire “ more information 
generally.” The desire is laudable, but at least until you have tried 
other methods we cannot advise you to carry out your proposal, as in all 
probability you would not be satisfied with the return you would obtain 
for the outlay the plan would involve. If you have had a fairly good 
training as a gardener, and can read and study as well as you write, 
you can improve yourself considerably. Instruction is also gained by 
visiting friendly and intelligent gardeners, and by attending exhibitions 
as far as opportunities permit. In many distriets Gardeners’ Improve¬ 
ment Associations are established, and if there is not one in your district 
possibly there will be if you and other earnest men co-operate to that 
end. If you can specify any difficulty in your path, or name any 
subject on which you need advice, \ye will readily assist you if we can 
through our paper ; and you may rest in the assurance that the names 
of persons seeking information are perfectly safe in our keeping. 
Peach Tree Buds Falling- (B. O. M .).— The system of forcing you 
appear to have adopted is a very satisfactory one, and should not be the 
cause of the buds falling from your tree. There are many minute causes 
which will result in Peach trees throwing off a number of their buds, 
which can scarcely be determined without a thorough knowledge of the 
treatment of the trees after they shed their foliage, and the condition of 
the roots and growth. Dryness at the roots during the resting period 
will cause the buds to fall soon after starting, and many failures result 
from this cause alone. Again, if the trees have been suddenly changed 
from the treatment they would receive while resting to that of closing 
the house to maintain a given temperature with insufficient air, that is 
sufficient to cause the buds to fall from some varieties, while others 
would not be affected by such a sudden change. The Boyal George is 
much better adapted for early forcing than the Noblesse, and is not so 
likely to cast off its buds if kept a little too close, as would be the case 
with the latter variety. In forcing the Noblesse in an early house more 
air should play about the tree from first starting, or the buds are almost 
sure to fall as soon as there is the slightest move perceptible. It is not 
really suitable for a very early house, and does much better in a cooler 
position. When forced early it must be very carefully and gradually 
brought forward with abundance of air night and day if success is to be 
looked for. If the wood has been crowded in the trees, or left too 
thickly so that sun and air could not penetrate to thoroughly ripen it, 
the buds are always liable to fall when the trees have been started early. 
The flow pipe being pressed into the bark of your tree is certainly pre 
judicial to its well-being, and may be the cause of the buds falling. If 
the tree has been planted the number of years you say, and has never 
been lifted or disturbed, the roots may have penetrated into bad soil, or 
if the border has become sour in any way the buds are almost sure to fall. 
It would be well to carefully lift the tree after its growth is made, and 
some time before the foliage falls, bringing the roots nearer the surface, 
and adding some fresh soil about them. It should be kept well syringed and 
shaded for a time after lifting co keep the foliage fresh until fresh roots 
are formed. It would not be wise under the circumstances to lift it now. 
Heavy cropping for a number of years is a sure cause of failure and 
proves in the long run a gigantic evil, and judging from the number of 
fruits you say has been taken from the tree is sufficient alone to cause 
the failure. What appears to be light cropping for a few years in the 
end often proves too heavy, and exhausts the energies of the trees until 
they force upon cultivators a season of rest—“ free from the strain of 
fruit-bearing ”—so as to recruit themselves. 
Propagating- Dracaenas (M. 31.). — The most certain method of 
striking the tops of Dracaenas is to notch the stems close under the 
good leaves, and where the stems are not very hard, yet not very 
succulent. All inferior leaves may be cut off, or a portion of the stem 
cleared of them where the notching is to be done, and a flower pot fixed 
or ball of moss tied round. Many persons prefer the foimer, and first 
split longitudinally as many 4-inch pots as may be required, usually 
spoiling some in the process. They then have light soil handy, such a3 
