114 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Feb nary 21, 1889. 
last meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society one large group of 
Daffodils in pots afforded a substantial proof of what a display can 
be had in early February. This is effected, too, at a comparatively 
small expense, for the majority of these plants resent the exposure 
to strong heat in rapid forcing, by failing to flower.—C. 
RAISING AND GROWING SEAKALE. 
My way of growing, or rather preparing Seakale from cuttings, 
being rather different from any I have seen described in your 
Journal, although I took the idea from there, I venture to send 
you particulars. During the autumn or early winter months we 
lift the whole of our stock of Seakale, laying it in ashes in the 
open to be taken in as required for forcing. By so doing we can 
prepare the ground for another season’s crop. At the time of 
digging we select as many as are required of the thong-like roots, 
being careful to keep them all one way. These are also treated to 
an open air covering, and are prepared on wet days under cover 
for planting. They are cut into lengths of about 6 inches, and to 
avoid confusion at planting time they are cut level on the upper 
end, the bottom being cut slantingly. We then tie them in bundles 
of fifties with string, matting being found liable to decay, after¬ 
wards placing them in boxes and filling between with fine soil or 
ashes, which answer equally well, and giving a good watering 
through a fine-rose pot. The boxes are then placed in a cold 
frame and treated much the same as Cauliflowers or Lettuces as to 
watering and air giving. 
Towards the end of March they will have formed numerous 
buds, and if the weather is favourable they may be planted on well 
pulverised and manured ground fully exposed to the sun. The 
soil should be well worked down with a garden rake, and drills 
drawn much the same as for Onions, only they should be 2 feet 
apart. The bundles are then untied, and if sufficiently advanced in 
growth a portion of the buds are rubbed off before planting. They 
are placed along the rows at about 15 inches apart with a dibber in 
a similar manner to that of planting Cabbages. We procure a 
quantity of soot and old potting soil in the proportion of about two 
parts of the latter to one of the former. Each plant then receives 
a handful of the mixture, which tends to preserve them from the 
ravages of slugs, and also from spring frosts. 
The after treatment consists in a further disbudding, two 
growths only being left to come to maturity, and if extra strong 
crowns are desired, only one should be left. It is important 
that the disbudding be attended to early, or before the growths are 
much advanced, for on this depends whether the Kale becomes 
strong or weak by the autumn. Weeds must be kept down by 
frequent stirring of the soil with the hoe during the early part of 
the season, and if they do well the weeds will stand a poor chance 
before the autumn, as the Kale will have covered the surface. 
By preparing the cuttings as described I get a much longer 
season of growth, which naturally tends to the production of larger 
plants and stronger crowns. In closely cropped gardens the inter¬ 
vening spaces can be utilised for small growing crops such as 
Lettuces, Horn Carrot, or Radishes.—J. G-. 
PLANTS FOR HOUSE DECORATION. 
Some plants are not of an enduring nature when exposed for 
any length of time to the dry air of rooms, and anything short of 
an ice house on the one hand and a brick oven on the other cannot 
well be conceived as more inimical to plant life than the positions 
accorded to plants in a corridor, vestibule, hall, staircase, or landing. 
In particular species there is a vast difference of endurance, there¬ 
fore the object should be to keep in view the hardiest of a hardy 
race, and propagate from no others. 
ASPIDISTRA. 
No plants so well withstand the adverse conditions to which they 
are exposed in house decoration as the Aspidistras ; their oblong, 
large, leathery leaves, and stemless habit, render them peculiarly 
appropriate for decorative purposes. Neat or fully developed 
examples contrast well in form and outline with every article of use 
or ornament, the variegated being singularly effective. Duly 
inured before employment the plants bear unimpaired draughts or 
confined air, light or sombreness, warm places or cool, dust°or gas 
fumes in fact, Aspidistras will stand where few other plants will, 
and in freshness and beauty are everything required of plants for 
house decoration. 
Aspidistras are, I think, somewhat confused as regards nomen- 
clatuie in gardens. I have had for A. lurida and A. lurida variegata 
something very different ; indeed, there is a species—viz., A. elatior, 
which is taller, in well-grown specimens to 2 feet high, the 
oblong, somewhat large deep green and nearly erect leaves not 
having the brightness of A. lurida, and lacking the recurving wavy 
foliage of that variety, it (A. elatior) being a taller, less graceful, 
yet very effective plant. A. elatior variegata is a counterpart of 
the species, with slight white or creamy stripes usually confined to 
the margin, one side or half of the leaf, the plant being equaiy 
vigorous with the type, and though a useful is not nearly so effec¬ 
tive in variegation or so desirable a plant in any way as A. lurida 
variegata. In A. lurida the leaves are oblong lanceolate, deep 
shining green, twisted or wavy, and recurved at the ends, which 
impart an extremely graceful aspect to so stiff a plant. The varie¬ 
gated form—viz , A. lurida variegata—is the most esteemed, and 
deservedly so, as it is, without question, the most beautiful and! 
enduring of all variegated plants used for decorative purposes. 
There is a charm in the leaves that are only partly, half, or wholly 
cream coloured, and it has the advantage of giving them of various, 
degrees of size, breadth, and length, so that it has a fulness which 
renders it peculiarly attractive. A. elatior is the hardiest, as it 
certainly is the coarsest and least attractive, it being I believe from 
Japan, A. lurida being a native of China. For decorative purposes 
we may safely discard A. elatior for the better A. lurida and its 
variegated form, as it will endure well the adverse conditions to. 
which decorative plants are subjected, and survive for an almost 
indefinite period where others fail. Though its foliage is remark¬ 
ably persistent it is important that the leaves be kept free from- 
dust, alike for appearance as for the health and endurance of the 
foliage. 
Being of comparatively slow growth it is not readily propagated. 
It is, however, occasionally necessary to increase the stock, which 
is not a matter of any great difficulty, but requires time. Increase- 
by seed is alleged to be the most desirable, but I have not been 
troubled with any, consequently have had to rest content with the 
old fashioned practice of division. This is very good when there 
are good plants that will bear division without breaking them up- 
into small pieces, as when the plants must be grown under cool 
treatment or in an ordinary greenhouse they do not push latent 
buds freely, and are a long time in getting established and attaining 
serviceable proportions. Good sized divisions, however, taken from 
plants in a greenhouse and grown therein answer well enough, but 
the pace is much too slow for maintaining a supply of plants in 
various sizes as obtains in most establishments ; besides, however 
well the plants may succeed in a greenhouse they develope larger 
and finer leaves in warmth and corresponding moisture, and it is 
only a question of inuring the plants after they are of the size 
required and their growths sufficiently developed to a cooler and 
freer ventilated structure for a time, so as to bear without injury- 
vicissitudes incidental to decoration. 
Ordinarily the creeping rootstock or stool should be cut up 
into as many pieces as there are leaves, or as can be done with one 
or more leaves attached. They should be placed singly iu small 
pots, the smaller the better, only they be large enough to hold the- 
pieces and admit of the necessary soil around, than which nothing 
answers better than leaf soil with a free admixture of sand. Plunge 
the pots in a gentle bottom heat of 80° to 85°, and keep the soil, also 
the atmosphere, moist, and with a temperature of not less than 60°— 
in fact an ordinary propagating case in a stove with a bed of saw¬ 
dust or cocoa refuse for plunging in and bottom heat from pipes 
answer perfectly. When rooted and pushing fresh growth they 
may be withdrawn, shifted into larger pots, and grown on in a warm 
house kept rather close and moist. Whilst in the cutting and 
young state the leaves should be supported upright with sticks. 
The plants do not require a very large amount of pot room, but 
the size of pot much accord with the intended size of the plant, 
according shifts as necessary ; and as large plants in any case are 
wanted in proportionate to the size of pot never give larger shifts 
than are absolutely necessary, and remove in all cases the loose inert 
soil. The propagation and potting is best, perhaps, effected during 
the early spring months. A good rich loamy soil with a third of 
leaf soil and a sprinkling of sand will grow them well. A little 
charcoal may be added. Good drainage is highly important, as they 
require copious supplies of water, and do not succeed well in a 
sodden, sour soil; therefore, the watering must be judicious, not 
allowing to become and remain dust dry, nor watering when the 
soil is already wet. A good exposure to light is necessary, and 
copious syringings with a genial condition of the atmosphere 
essential. 
FATSIA. 
In Fatsia we have, next to Aspidistra, one of the best of decora¬ 
tive plants, with considerable difference in contour, but still bold 
and striking in aspect. 
Fatsia (Aralia) japonica (Sieboldi) has large, digitate, leathery, 
deep, but bright, shining green leaves, disposed on an erect stem, 
the leaves having rather long petioles, and disposed upon it 
