February 28, 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
165 
T HE Hydrangea is well grown for the market in the neighbour 
hood of London, but in the provinces it does .not receive the 
attention it deserves. If well grown plants are produced they are 
more the result of chance than from following a system. There 
are exceptions ; and instances could be brought forward where 
-they are grown annually to a high degree of excellence. But this is 
by no means general, and therefore some notes on the subject may 
lead to better and more certain methods of culture. 
I do not infer that failure in the culture of the Hydrangea is 
due to ignorance of the methods to be followed, because southern 
jnactice has been detailed more than once ; but it arises principally 
in the northern parts of the country by following or trying to 
follow the principles that are adopted in more favourable districts. 
•Growers have been advised again and again to select, as soon as 
they can be determined, shoots that have formed flower buds from 
outside plants growing in a sunny open position. The cuttings are 
to be inserted singly in small pots, and if practicable given gentle 
bottom heat, while the tops are kept moderately cool for fear they 
should start into growth. In favourable places this advice may re¬ 
sult successfully where the growth of the plants outside is early 
•and the formation of flower buds certain ; but even under these 
circumstances this system of procedure is faulty. In the northern 
parts of the country the method of culture given is worthless. In 
the majority of seasons growers would either be without plants, 
or if they rooted cuttings, these would fail to flower. In such 
•seasons as 1887 the wood might be sufficiently ripened to flower, 
hut under these circumstances it would be a great mistake to 
leave striking until flowering shoots could be selected from non¬ 
flowering shoots. The seasons in the north are too short for 
obtaining cuttings that can be relied upon to produce flowering 
plants annually, and therefore it is necessary to provide a number 
from which early cuttings can be obtained. 
I said the method of culture even for favourable localities was 
faulty. To leave the shoots on the plants until the buds are 
formed is the principal mistake. By the time the shoots reach this 
condition the wood has attained considerable solidity, in fact it is 
"too firm to be rooted with any degree of freedom. They quickly 
become woody after the growth has ceased lengthening before any 
signs of development are observed. By that time the wood is 
quite hard and the. cuttings are a long time before they form roots. 
The softer the wood the more quickly the cuttings root. They 
should be taken off directly the shoot has lengthened out, and one 
pair of bold leaves left at the base. It is not necessary when the 
wood is soft cutting to a joint for the base of a cutting—to do 
this would very often leave one joint on the plant more than is 
needed, or necessitate the removal of the two large leaves that 
should be attached to the cutting. They root as well when 
cut between the joints as if cut at a joint. When the cuttings are 
inserted in 2£ inch pots they should only have the point of the 
plant and two large leaves above the soil, in fact in some cases the 
large leaves will be partially inserted in the soil. The soil should 
be composed of sandy loam and a little manure, and be pressed as 
firmly into the pots as possible. After insertion give a good soaking 
of water and stand the cuttings in handlights under the shade of 
Vines, under Cucumbers, or in any similar place. They will do in 
a cold frame if kept close, moist, and shaded from the sun. No 
No. 453.— Vol. XVIII., Third Series, 
bottom heat is needed, nor cool treatment to prevent growth. It is 
important that they be kept moist by syringing twice daily ; this 
will induce them to commence rooting on the surface quickly. 
Tt must be remembered that if cuttings of soft wood are thrown 
into a tank of water they will root freely and quickly from every 
portion of the stem. This course is not advised, for they are better 
in pots and subject to the treatment advised. 
Directly the cuttings are rooted they must be removed to a cold 
frame and gradually exposed to light and air. When they will 
bear full exposure place them outside in a sunny position until 
the approach of frost. If kept well watered they will ripen and 
form bold flower buds. By the end of September the two leaves 
should be assuming an autumn tint, the stem be brown to the 
base of the flower bud, which should also be of a dark reddish 
tinge as hard and large as a hazel nut. The young plants by this 
treatment will not exceed in height 2 inches above the soil, and not 
one in a hundred will fail to flower in the following season. It 
is not necessary to house them before they have been exposed to 
slight frosts. This will remove the large leaves at the base and 
do the plants no harm. 
In the northern parts of the country plants do not complete 
their growth in time for the development of bold firm flower buds. 
Even in 1887 the cuttings could not be removed from outside 
plants and rooted before the close of August; fully 50 per cent, of 
the shoots taken failed to flower, and even these run up from 1 foot 
to 15 inches before they showed trusses. This will not be the case 
if the cuttings are rooted and ready for standing outside by the 
end of July. Cuttings taken from plants that have finished their 
growth, and then given two of the best months in the year in which 
to ripen and form flower buds, will only produce five pairs of leaves 
before the flower truss is seen. The young plants at this stage will 
not exceed 5 inches from the surface of the soil to the flower 
truss at the top. By the time the truss is developed the plants will 
be 9 inches to a foot high, with trusses nearly as far through, and 
large leaves hanging on the rims of the pots. Hydrangeas can 
certainly be flowered on the young wood, but in this case they will 
attain a foot or 15 inches, and must be checked to bring them into 
flower ; they will then run up 6 or 7 inches more. This is not a 
certain method however, and the plants by this treatment cannot 
be relied upon to flower. For many forms of house decoration 
they might be found useful, but for the market they would not find 
a ready sale. 
All who have not stock in pots for yielding early cuttings may 
lift a few plants from outside, and place them in pots in a cold 
vinery or Peach house—any place under glass where they can be 
protected from frost. They will quickly show signs of growth, 
and should be encouraged to do so. Our stock plants have just 
been placed in a vinery that has been closed for starting ; there they 
will remain until the roof is covered with foliage, when they will 
be removed to a light airy place after hardening them for a few 
days, and will finally be placed outside in a sunny place when the 
weather is favourable, where they will remain until the cuttings 
are taken from them. The old plants are then cut down close 
to the base. If they are root-bound the newly formed shoots 
ripen fairly well in some seasons, but we are careful not to expose 
them to severe frosts, for if they are not well ripened they are 
liable to damp off just below the leading bud. By assisting them 
to make their growth early well-ripened plants that are certain to 
flower can be produced by autumn. 
Difference of opinion certainly exists about the best time to 
transfer these young plants to their largest pots—namely, 36’s 
(4^ inch). It has been contended that the best time is after the 
bud has commenced forming and the small pots are full of roots, 
because they then become established before winter and are in a 
better position to produce bolder foliage and finer trusses. This 
certainly sounds feasible, but I Lave proved that it is not a safe 
method. I have known the plants start again into growth and thus 
No. 2109 .—Vol. LXXX., Old Series. 
