180 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 28, 1889. 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDE M. 
Apricots. —Cold frosty weather has much retarded flowering, but in 
“forward localities the flowers will soon be open, and all necessary work 
in the shape of pruning, nailing, watering, and manuring ought to be 
•completed at once. In the case of healthy well-furnished trees not 
much pruning is needed. No long spurs should be permitted to form, as 
these soon spoil the appearance of the tree, and are not so certain to 
produce good fruit as are those close to the branches. All lateral growth 
not required for furnishing ought to be shortened to about 2 inches in 
•length, and any long old spurs that can be spared cut back still harder. 
In the majority of gardens Apricot trees commence gumming while 
■comparatively young, whole branches collapsing suddenly. In anticipa¬ 
tion of this, it is advisable to lay in well-ripened young branches to 
their full length wherever there is space for them, and especially from 
the base of the trees. Even if the old branches remain sound, it is good 
policy to lay in young shoots to take the place of the older ones, much 
the finest fruit being produced on well-iipened young growth, or the 
spurs formed on the latter. These fresh growths must have fair play, 
first some of the old spurs and then the whole of worn-out branches 
being cut out to make room for them. As far as pruning and training 
is concerned, Apricots require much the same treatment as Plums, and 
in some districts they succeed equally well. All the trees ought to be 
carefully gone over, and every shred and nail that is liable to pinch or 
bruise the wood removed, otherwise much harm may result. 
Young Apricot Trees. —If maiden trees are planted with the idea 
of gradually converting them into fan-shaped specimens, these should 
be cut back to below where the first unstopped shoot branched, or say to 
•within 6 inches of the point of union with the bud. Next summer it 
■ought to be possible to select four well-placed shoots on these, which 
should be laid in to their full length, and encouraged to grow strongly. 
In the following autumn or winter these branches ought to be cut back 
to about half their length, and be capable of pushing out eight or ten 
fresh branches, being then equal in size, but in other respects superior, 
to the trained trees usually supplied by nurserymen. Neither the home- 
trained trees of this size nor those received from the nurseries should 
again be hard pruned. Supposing the branches are all well ripened, 
they may be thinly and evenly laid in to their full length, only the 
centre of the trees being kept open. Bruised or unripened ends ought 
to be shortened to where they are sound or firm, and spurs cut back as 
advised above. Winter pruning will not check grossness in a branch, 
but rather aggravate the evil. This should be remedied by summer 
stopping, frequently pinching back the lateral, and stopping the leading 
growth of the very vigorous branches, much favouring the growth of 
the more weakly shoots. According as the shoots extend, more leading 
shoots should be laid in, the aim being to furnish all the wall space with 
bearing branches about 6 inches apart. Walls are more quickly furnished 
with .trees having one main stem only, this method of training being 
especially to be recommended in all cases where the trees are short¬ 
lived. The start should be made with maiden trees planted about G feet 
apart. At the first pruning all the clear stems or lower half should be 
left, and this ought to be capable of forming a leader and two shoots on 
each side. In the following winter the latter to be laid in to their full 
length, and the leader shortened to about half its length, the latter to 
form more side shoots, and the older branches other shoots and fruiting 
spurs. In this manner the top of the wall is reached in five or six years, 
more or less, according to its height and the vigour of the trees. It is 
advisable to train the main stem in an oblique direction, or otherwise 
the lower branches will fare badly. 
Watering and Manuring the Trees. —It not unfrequently 
happens that Apricot trees that have long been in undisturbed posses¬ 
sion of the border exhaust the soil to a considerable depth of both 
moisture and fertility, and unless this is restored at the present time 
a weakly growth and dry flavourless fruit is the consequence. Where 
there are permanent glass copings it is especially necessary to examine 
■the borders, that portion nearest the wall foundations being the most 
liable to become dry, rains rarely reaching it. In all cases where it is 
•decided to water the borders, the surface soil to a width of 3 feet or 
more from the wall should be freely loosened with forks, and at least 
two good soakings of water given. After the border is well moistened 
liquid manure should be freely applied, nothing acting more beneficially 
than the drainings of a farmyard or a heap of farmyard manure, 
diluted somewhat according to its strength. This treatment has an ex¬ 
cellent effect, the flowers being stronger, the fruit finer, and the health 
•of the trees generally is much improved. Before returning the surface 
soil to its old position, a mulching of half-decayed manure should be 
given. This, being enclosed by the soil, is not wasted, but the borders 
are longer preserved in a moist state, the roots also taking possession of 
the manure. 
Protecting Apricot Blossom. —Unprotected trees seldom escape 
injury by frosts, and poor crops are the consequence. Glass copings and 
blinds are the best form of protection, but these are not generally 
available, and some substitute must be found. Copings only, whether 
of glass, wood, or slates, are not to be depended upon, an additional 
screen of some kind being necessary. What answers well is a broad 
coping 9 inches wide, to the under side of this being attached a strong 
wire, on which to run long cotton or woollen blinds duly furnished with 
curtain rings and tapes. Stout poles or iron rods reaching from the 
coping and fixed in the border 18 inches from the wall about every 4 feet 
are also needed, their purpose being to keep the blinds from dashing 
against the trees, and they are also available for fixing the blinds, 
whether open or closed. This can be improved upon by ingenious 
persons, as it is possible to dispense with either poles or rods, the bottom 
of the blinds having rings attached, and run on to a stout wire strained 
from short posts 2 feet from the wall. Anything moveable is preferable 
to permanent coverings, as the former can be taken ofE the trees on warm 
days, and therefore do not unduly weaken the flowers. Trebled fish 
nets fixed to copings and poles over the trees will ward off moderately 
severe frosts, and not unfrequently save a crop. So also will a light 
covering of Spruce Fir branches, but the latter ought only to be used 
when no other form of protection is available. The coverings ought not 
to be removed till the foliage is capable of preserving the tiny fruit from 
frosts. 
FRUIT FORGING. 
Pines. — Starting Sue Jars. —At the commencement of March some 
suckers should be started, which are intended to afford a supply of ripe 
fruit from about December onward through the winter and early summer 
months. The pots most suitable are 5 to 7 inches in diameter, perfectly 
clean and dry, draining them with about an inch of crocks of moderate 
size, employing fibrous loam torn up moderately small, rejecting the 
dust, ramming it firmly about the base of the suckers, and plunging in 
a bottom hear of 90° to 93° at the base of the pots. No water should 
be applied until new roots are formed, which will take ten days to a 
fortnight. A close moist pit is the moist suitable place for these plants, 
where they can be near the glass. They will not need shading except 
the weather be bright, when slight shading from very bright mid-day 
sun and a light syringing through a fine rose will be necessary about 
twice a week. Keep the temperature at 55° to 65° by artificial means. 
Any plants in an unsatisfactory state should be shaken out, disrooted, 
and treated as advised for the suckers. 
Stools. —It is advisable to leave the small suckers upon the stools 
until the end of May, which is a good time to start more suckers. Stools 
when the leaves are cut off, should be placed together in any pit having 
a moderate top and bottom heat, where light and air can be obtained, 
so as to insure a sturdy sucker. 
Early Summer Fruiters. —Plants started in December will be show¬ 
ing fruit, it being desirable to advance the ripening as much as possible, 
the temperature being sustained at G5° to 70° by artificial means, with 
5° to 10° more under favourable conditions. If the plants cannot be 
afforded a structure to themoelves, which is advisable, they should be 
placed at the hottest end of the fruiting house. With the fruits 
advancing the plants will need more water at the roots, going over the 
stock once a week. Recently started plants must be kept at*63° by 
night and 70° by day, keeping the atmosphere for those plants and 
fruiters generally moist, watering as required with weak guano or other 
form of liquid manure. 
Figs. — Earliest Trees in Pots. —The fruit swells the best when the 
trees are given a top-dressing of rich material, applying it to the surface 
of the pots, and if a layer of turves has been placed around the rims of 
the pots as before advised, space is afforded for the top-dressings. Do 
not give heavy dressings of rich material at one time, but apply it little 
and often. Apply also liquid manure, 1 oz. of guano to a gallon of 
water, giving it in such quantity as to pass through the pots ; driblets do 
no good. Maintain a genial atmosphere by syringing twice a day when 
the weather is bright, but avoid keeping the foliage constantly wet, as 
would be the case by syringing the trees vigorously in dull weather. 
Damp the walls, paths, and beds, keeping the evaporation troughs filled 
with liquid mauure or guano water, and to check red spider paint the 
pipes thinly with sulphur, using skim milk for mixing. Admit a little 
air at 70°, increasing it with advance of solar heat up to 83°, which 
ought not to be exceeded, closing at 80°. The night temperature may 
still range from 60° to 65°, 55° in the morning in severe weather is 
safer than the higher temperature, advancing 10° by day. Avoid 
crowding, as the fruit to have flavour and colour must, when ripening, 
have full exposure to light combined with a circulation of dry warm 
air, therefore stop or tie the shoots out or down as the growth 
advances. 
Planted-out Fig Trees.— Those started early in the year will require 
disbudding and stopping, removing all the overcrowded shoots, stopping 
those intended to form spurs at about the fifth joint for the second 
crop, the leading shoots where there is space being allowed to extend, 
as they invariably afford the finest fruit. Water the border freely with 
liquid manure at 80°, taking care not to apply it too strong, and mulch 
with rich compost, which will attract the roots to the surface. Encourage 
also the emission of roots from the collar or stem by placing fibrous 
pieces of turf and partially decayed manure in contact with it, and by 
extending the material outwards a quantity of feeders will be secured, 
which, if supplied with warm liquid manure, will greatly assist the 
fruit. 
Melons. —In the Melon house a ridge the whole length of the 
house or bed, about 2 feet wide at the base, with the top flattened so as 
to give a depth of 10 to 12 inches, is preferable to hillocks, the soil 
