March 7, 1889. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
205 
it is then dug roughly and allowed to remain so until a coating of 
manure is applied, a quantity of soot over this, and the whole is forked 
under the surface. The ground is then ready for the seed, and we have 
never known a crop fail after this, while the yield is all that could be 
desired Small sowings may be made in beds broadcast, but when sown 
in any quantity they may be grown row after row all over the piece. 
A good kitchen crop may be raised with the rows 9 inches apart, and 
they need never be more than 1 foot apart. Sow about 2 inches below 
the surface and cover firmly. We have raised some early spring Onions 
in boxes under glass, and we are glad to notice the seed germinated 
freely. 
Globe Artichokes. —We find the demand for these increase, and 
where there is any deficiency of plants the old ones may be dug, divided 
into several pieces, and replanted. The roots penetrate deeply, and they 
should have rich deep soil. We plant at a distance of 3 feet apart each 
way, and all newly divided or transplanted Artichokes should have a 
quantity of long manure placed round their stems. 
Garlic and Shallots. —The first named is rarely required in any 
quantity, but a little of it is often in demand, and a few roots must be 
grown in all gardens. The bulbs may be planted in any odd corner 
where the soil is good and exposed to the sun. Place them at a distance 
of 9 inches apart each way, and merely push them under the surface of 
the soil. Shallots are more used, and may be grown in quantity, the 
clustered bulbs being divided and then inserted in rows 9 inches apart. 
We generally grow them on a narrow fruit border, and find them do 
well partially under the trees. Plant them at once, and if a little sand 
is dibbled in with each bulb it will induce them to start into growth 
soon. 
Early Celery. —It is generally desirable to have early Celery in 
before the main crop, and sometimes it is wanted for exhibition at the 
summer shows, and in all cases of the kind the seed must be sown early 
in March. Three parts fill a shallow box with good soil, level it, sow 
the seed thinly, cover slightly, and place it in a temperature of 65°. 
The young plants will appear in a week or ten days, and they are easily 
managed afterwards, but care should be taken that they never suffer 
from drought at the roots. 
Radishes in the Open. —Hitherto the Radishes have been sown 
in a little heat, but they may now be sown in the open. Choose a warm 
corner where the soil is rather light. Sow broadcast and thinly. Cover 
to the depth of a quarter of an inch, and place some hoops and a piece 
of old net over them to prevent the birds taking the seed. 
Carrots. —Those in the frames must be carefully thinned before 
they suffer from crowding. Water afterwards to settle them in their 
places. Cover with mats on frosty nights, and admit a little air when 
the sun is strong. Some sow Horn Carrots in the open in February, but 
we have never found these quite successful, and we do not sow our first 
Carrots in the open until March. We have the ground ready now, and 
they will be sown as soon as the frost is out of it. It has been well 
dressed with soot and a little sand, and they will come clean in it. The 
best way is to sow in rows 1 foot apart, and cover over with some dry 
soil. It is important that those who have no Carrots in frames have 
them as soon as possible in the open, but where there are plenty in 
frames their owners need not be in a hurry to sow in the open, especially 
if the soil is not in good order. In that case those that feel they must 
sow had better only put in a small quantity, and the remainder 
later on 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Dracanas. —Plants to be assisted in growth should have a bottom heat 
after they are potted if practicable of 75°, while the temperature of the 
structure in which they are to be grown may range at night 10° lower. 
Well-furnished heads rooted in autumn, or young plants raised from 
portions of stem and now in 5 and 6-inch pots, may be placed into 
others 2 inches larger. Young plants wintered in 3-inch pots may now 
be placed into 6-inch pots, in which they will be useful for decoration. 
The D. Cooperi and D. terminalis types do well in equal portions of 
loam and peat, with a liberal addition of sand and a little decayed 
manure, or good leaf mould may be substituted for the peat. D. Goldieana, 
D. gracilis, and others of the same habit of growth do well in loam, 
sand, and one-seventh of manure. Young stock may now be raised by 
cutting up the stem of well ripened plants that have been injured by 
decoration in dwelling rooms. If the stems are woody and the plants 
have been kept dry at their roots, they will soon start into growth after 
they are cut into lengths, but if they are soft and green they are very 
liable to decay. In this case cutting them should be delayed for a time. 
Place the portions of stem thickly together in sandy soil, and plunge in 
bottom heat. The stems of D. Goldieana and D. gracilis should not be cut 
into lengths, but be kept in brisk heat and allowed to break into growth, 
when the young growths can be taken off and rooted. These should not 
be starved by keeping them dry at their roots. Good heads can now be 
taken off and rooted. If cut where the wood is moderately soft, they 
will root freely in brisk heat in sandy soil, or may be inserted 
in bottles of water. A safe plan is to ring them below the foliage 
and moss them until they throw out roots, when they may be taken off 
and potted. Such Dracaenas as gracilis, Goldieana, Lindeni, and others of 
the same nature should be cut off where the wood is soft, for there is 
no difficulty in rooting them without losing a leaf or even injury to 
one. If cut where the wood is firm, they will be months rooting in¬ 
stead of weeks. Cool varieties, such as D. rutilans, should be raised 
in heat by cutting up the stem, especially the root portions. Pot 
young stock of these, and grow them in various temperatures according 
to requirements. By this method from one good batch of plants, 
some suitable for decoration can be had over a very long period of time. 
Crotons .—Where well furnished plants with bold foliage to the base 
have been preserved in good condition for growing in 7 and 8-inch 
pots for decoration, they may now be placed in pots 2 or even 3 inches 
larger than those they occupy. Place small plants that have been raised 
from side shoots in 2 and 3-inch pots into 6-inch pots, and when 
they have developed large well coloured leaves take off the heads and 
re-root them. Insert cuttings that are well coloured in quantity. If 
taken off where the wood is soft they will root quickly and freely in the 
propagating frame in brisk heat. Plants that have made growth during 
the winter and have uncoloured foliage upon them should be encouraged 
to make fresh growth under the influence of light before they are 
topped. The secret of having Crotons in a highly ornamental condition 
for decoration is to be careful to strike heads that have good foliage: 
highly coloured at the base, they are then doubly effective, as if only 
half the plant is furnished with highly coloured leaves. Plants intended 
for specimens may also be placed into larger pots. Be careful not to 
overpinch these, for nothing is gained, but on the contrary, the size of 
the foliage is greatly diminished. When the desired number of shoots 
have been formed bring them outwards to the rim of the pot, and then 
allow them to extend, and the result will be shoots with finely developed 
foliage well coloured if the plants are fully exposed to light. Plants 
that are in the size pots in which they are to be used, but have yet to 
make another growth, may be top-dressed with rich material or have 
artificial manure applied to the surface of the soil. Syringe freely, but 
water carefully all newly potted plants. The Croton does well in a 
compost of fibry loam, one-seventh of manure and sand. 
Eucharises .—Plants that have flowered and require repotting should 
be done at once. If the stock to be operated upon is young and the 
soil about their roots in a sweet condition they may be placed into larger 
pots without disturbing their roots. If the soil has a tendency to be 
sour or close shake every particle away from the roots and repot them 
in fresh. At the same time sort the bulbs and pot them in their sizes. 
Do not cast on one side the young bulbs, but discard, if any are to be 
thrown away, bulbs that are worn out and exhausted. The young ones 
will soon grow into good flowering plants, for they have youth and 
vigour on their side. To preserve a healthy stock of these plants it is 
wise to pot young bulbs annually. These plants soon establish them¬ 
selves at this season of the year if plunged in a temperature of 75°, and! 
in a night temperature of 65°. Syringe freely, but water carefully until 
they commence fresh root activity. Use for a compost good fibry loam, 
one-seventh of decayed manure and sand ; one 6-inch potful of soot may 
be used to each barrowful of loam. If the loam is inclined to be heavy 
use charcoal freely to keep it open and porous. The pots or pans used 
should be liberally drained. 
EARLY WORK. 
Watchman, what of the night ? William Raitt is dead. 
Every bee-keeper will regret that one who has done so much for 
bees and for bee-keepers should have been called away. In the= 
glad spring time, when the eager bees are rushing here and there 
in haste to gather the pollen and sweet nectar of the early plants 
and flowers, we cannot fail to think of him who has been snatched 
away In him we have lost an earnest Christian, a great bee-keeper,, 
and a good man. We lament his loss. 
The spring time is fast approaching, and bees are getting some¬ 
what more restless than we like to see them at this period of the- 
year. Extreme restlessness is not seldom a sign of pending starva¬ 
tion, and if any bee-keeper thinks that his stocks are getting short 
of food, he must take the very first opportunity of replenishing 
their store. It is a very false economy to keep bees all the autumn 
and winter months, and then, just when the season of profit is- 
approaching, allow them to starve, when by a very small expen¬ 
diture they might be saved from death. Do bee-keepers who do’ 
not seem to care whether their stocks live over the spring or not, 
realise that it would be both better for the bee-keeper, and far 
kinder to the bees, to kill them in autumn and take their store',, 
rather than allow them to drag on through the dark months of 
winter only to die of starvation in the early months of spring ? 
Bee-keepers do not think, or they would never be so foolish as to 
keep bees eating honey for some six months, and then allow them 
to die rather than spend a few shillings on the food necessary to 
tide the stocks over until natural supplies come in sufficient 
abundance to provide for all wants. 
