224 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 14, 1889. 
flowered, and there is therefore a greater necessity for their preservation. 
Blinds with or without a glass coping, as recommended for Apricots, are 
the best protectors. Cold easterly winds frequently much injure the 
tender young leaves of the trees. A neat arrangement of board coping, 
rods, and blinds, all furnished with rings and tapes, will keep off quite 
a severe frost, and as these, if taken care of, last for many years they 
cannot be considered expensive. Trebled fish nets fixed clear of the 
trees also frequently save the greater portion of the flowers, and failing 
blinds these ought to be used. 
Grafting Fruit Trees. — Older generations practised grafting 
much more extensively than do gardeners of the present day. There is 
certainly less need for raising stocks and grafting these than formerly, 
fruit trees generally being sold very cheaply by nurserymen in all parts 
of the country, but there are numerous well established trees in most 
gardens that might well be changed in their character by grafting. 
Strong specimens of comparatively worthless varieties may, by grafting 
with superior sorts, be quickly converted into profitable trees; while if 
healthy grafts are inserted into apparently worn out trees, these for a 
time at any rate put new life into them. Stunted points of espalier 
trees or the leaders of the same seldom recover activity, but if these are 
shortened back and grafted a fresh strong leader soon results. When 
the sap is rising, or during March, is the best time to graft—the scions 
and which have been some time previously cut from the trees and bedded 
in the open ground, being still dormant. In most instances the method 
known as crown or rind grafting is the best. All the main branches of 
trees, whether against walls or in the open—that is to say either horizontal, 
fan-shaped, cordon, standards, pyramids, or bushes, trained—may safely 
be sawn back to within 6 inches of their starting point, and in these be 
inserted two or three scions each 5 inches or 6 inches in length. The 
latter, with wedge-shaped bases, ought to fit neatly into similarly shaped 
cuts made into the rind of the stock, the greatest care being taken to 
make the bark meet properly. They should first be tightly secured with 
strips of matting, and then enclosed with a good mass of clay and cow 
manure, so as to effectually exclude the air from the wounds. In time 
the barks become united, when they may be cleared of the clay. The 
object of in some instances inserting seier d grafts in each branch is to 
be certain of the growth of one, and if all grow, the best placed only 
should be retained and the others removed. Those who have seedlings 
they wish to test quickly, ought to graft these on either young stocks or 
on newly cut back branches of old trees. Apples, Pears, Plums, and 
Cherries are the fruits most commonly grafted. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Early Forced Trees in Pots. —The Figs are now swelling 
rapidly, and the trees will require to be well supplied with water. 
They should be syringed twice a day. If the pots are well drained it is 
scarcely possible to apply water too copiously when the trees are in full 
growth. The night temperature may be continued to 60° to G5°, with 
10° more by day, and from sun heat advance to 80° or 85°, affording 
p'enty of ventilation when the weather is favourable. 
Planted-out Trees. —The growth under favourable climatic condi¬ 
tions is rapid, hence the necessity of frequent attention in stopping the 
shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf. As a well-developed spur gives the best 
results in the second crop, when a number of shoots appear together 
they may all be removed but one, so as to cause it to be sturdy and 
fruitful. Train and regulate the terminals as required. Keep the house 
moist by daily syringing and damping the paths at closing time. 
Raising Young Trees. —This is a good time to propagate young 
plants from cuttings. Select shoots from 5 to G inches in length, with 
a heel of last year’s wood attached. They strike very freely in bottom 
heat. 
Pines. — Suckers. —The rooting of potted suckers will be indi¬ 
cated by the growth of the foliage, but it is well to turn the plants, or 
at least a portion of them, out. of the pots, so as to ascertain the condi¬ 
tion of the roots and the soil. The roots which issue from the suckers 
or plants similarly treated are very tender and susceptible to injury 
from the effects of too much bottom heat; hence, when they reach the 
sides of the pots, a temperature of 85° is ample, above which there is 
danger. When the bottom heat is excessive raise the pots, placing some 
loose tan under and around them, so as to allow the superabundant heat 
to pass away. The plants must not be neglected in the supply of water 
at the roots. 
Potting.— Established plants will now make roots rapidly, therefore 
have soil in readiness for transferring them to the largest pots, it being 
important that they be grown without check. Sound fibrous loam in 
good-sized lumps is the best material for potting, pressing it firmly 
round the roots of the plants, supplying them with tepid water, and 
plunging in a bottom heat of 90° to 95° until the roots have possession 
of the fresh soil, when 85° is more suitable. 
Fruiting Plants. —Fruiting plants and those which are near the 
flowering stage must have a night temperature of G5° to 70°, and 75° by 
day, with 80° to 90° from sun heat, closing at 85°, well damping all 
available surfaces in the house at that time. Afford successional plants a 
bottom heat of about 85°, ventilating at 80°, and closing at 85°, lightly 
sprinkling the plants occasionally. 
Melons. —The cold has retarded the growth of the early plants, but 
they will soon be showing fruit on the first laterals. To insure the 
setting of the fruit it is necessary to afford a bottom heat of 80° to 85°, 
and sufficient moisture in the soil to prevent the foliage flagging: This 
will arrest the growth, and in combination with a dry atmosphere, a 
circulation of warm air passing through the house will favour the pro¬ 
duction of pollen. Fertilise the pistillate blossoms every day, and stop 
the shoots one joint beyond the fruits. When the fruits commence 
swelling, earth over the roots by placing warm soil against the sides of 
the ridges or hillocks. Apply water as required, and avoid a sodden 
condition of the soil, duly maintaining moisture by sprinkling morn¬ 
ing and evening, and syringing lightly at closing time in bright weather. 
If a succession of fruit is desired in the same house, deprive some of 
the plants of the flowers that appear on the first laterals. Stopping those 
at the first joint will cause the sub-laterals to show fruit, which will be 
rather later and finer owing to the increased vigour of the plants. 
Plants in pits and frames with the shoots trained over the surface of 
the beds will requiie similar treatment to Cucumbers as regards lining 
the beds and adding soil as the plants advance in growth. Train and 
regulate the shoots, removing every alternate lateral, and apply water 
sufficiently to maintain a steady growth. As soon as the successional 
Melons are ready, plant them and pot the seedlings. Seed may be sown 
to yield plants for pits or frames as they become cleared of early Pota¬ 
toes, about five weeks being required to secure strong plants. 
Cucumbers. —In houses the night temperature may be increased to 
70°, watering more freely and increasing the atmospheric moisture. In 
the daytime 85° to 90° from sun heat should be allowed. Once a week 
thin out superfluous growths, not, however, removing large quantities of 
foliage at one time. Plants that have been in bearing all the winter 
may have the beds renovated by removing with a fork as much of the 
soil as can be done without injury to the roots. Supply rich lumpy 
compost previously warmed. 
Dung-heated beds that have been made up for a few weeks will need 
good linings. Remove as much of the outside of the beds as can be 
spared, and if the heat has not greatly declined it will suffice for the 
present if one-half the bed is lined, deferring the other half until the 
heat is again on the decline. Let it be applied to the width of about 
2 feet. Thin linings are of little use, being soon spent and sooner 
require renewal. When the heat is up in the linings see that there is 
no accumulation of rank steam in the frame, especially when the sun is 
powerful, preventing it by ventilation. A good night covering will be 
necessary to maintain a night temperature of 65° to 70°. Admit a little air 
at 75°, and permit the temperature to increase to 85° or 90°, closing at 
80° or 85° ; not, however, to cause the temperature afterwards to exceed 
90° to 95°. Add a little more soil as the roots spread on the surface. 
Attend to training and pegging the shoots, being careful not to overcrowd 
them. Stop the leading shoots a foot from the sides of the frames, and 
the laterals at one or two joints beyond the fruit. In watering do not 
wet the foliage more than can be helped. A sowing may be made to 
raise plants for growing in pits or frames that have been occupied by 
early Potatoes, Radishes, &c. In four or five weeks the seedlings are 
ready for planting. 
Strawberries in Pots.— Although the Strawberry swells freely in 
a high moist atmosphere, yet when the fruit changes colour a drier and 
more freely ventilated atmosphere is most desirable ; but there must not 
bo a sudden change, or the fruit will not finish satisfactorily. The 
temperature for swelling should be 65° at night, and 70° to 75° by day, 
advancing to 80° or 85° with sun. Thin the fruit on successional .plants 
to six or more according to the vigour of the plants. Afford liquid 
manure copiously, examining them twice, and in very bright weather 
three times a day, watering such as need it. Plants in vineries and 
Peach houses which are started periodically will afford successional 
supplies of fruit, there being no need in such cases to remove the plants 
except to meet special requirements. If plants be placed in ground 
vineries or plant protectors fruit very much finer and about three weeks 
earlier than that in the open ground will be secured. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Plumbago rosea. —Cuttings of young growing wood will now be 
plentiful, and should be inserted at once, so that the old stool plants 
can be thrown away. The cuttings will root freely if taken off with a 
sharp knife and inserted in sandy soil, watered, and plunged in the pro¬ 
pagating frame. It will be necessary to shade them from the sun. 
Cuttings of Linum trigynum may also be inserted. 
Centropogon Lucyanus. —As Centropogons cease flowering introduce 
them into a temperature of 60° until they break into growth -all along 
the stem. When shoots 2 inches in length have been made remove the 
plants to a cool place—any cool house that is kept close will do—for 
about a fortnight, when the cuttings may be taken with a heel, inserted 
in sandy soil, and placed in the propagating frame. By this treatment 
nearly every one will root, but if inserted while the plants are in heat 
nearly all will damp. Plants that have been flowering in 4-inch pots 
may be cut close down, and allowed to break into growth in an inter¬ 
mediate temperature, when they can be placed into larger pots. The 
old roots in this case need only be very slightly reduced. 
Poinsettias and Euphorbias. —These may be introduced into a tem¬ 
perature of 60° without delay to start into growth for yielding cuttings. 
Be careful not to give too much water. If placed in a moist atmosphere 
and the syringe is used twice daily they will need no water until 
growth is starting. 
Tydcea Madame Heine. — Plants are now past their best, and any 
good growing shoots should be taken and inserted in sandy soil in pans. 
They root freely and quickly in the propagating frame. These yield 
strong cuttings for inserting towards the end of May, which is early 
enough for providing bushy plants in 5-inch for flowering next year at 
this time. In most cases plenty of cuttings can be obtained at the pre¬ 
sent time, and as they root so freely the old plants can be thrown out. 
