JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
I March C8, 1889. 
264 
Feeding. —No other fruit tree produces surface roots so abundantly 
as the Fig does if measures be taken to encourage them by a mulch 
of 2 to 3 inches in thickness of partially decayed manure when the 
trees are fairly in growth. This, if kept in a moist state, will be 
full of active roots by the time the trees need the most support in 
order to perfect the crop. It is astonishing what heavy crops Fig 
trees will carry in a small quantity of calcareous, firm, well-drained 
soil, when mulched as directed, provided they are grown in a very 
light house. They will take and appropriate almost any amount of 
liquid manure, therefore afford it liberally to trees swelling their crops. 
Trees in pots will of necessity require it more frequency than those 
planted out, especially when reversed turves have been placed over the 
rims of the pots to encourage surface roots for absorbing the stimulants 
applied in liquid form. 
Cue timbers. —The season so far has been a trying one for Cucumbers 
not so much on account of sdvere weather as for its changeableness, 
hut we may shortly expect plenty of sun, and it is probable the foliage 
will flag under its influence, an evil which may be obviated by shading 
with some light material for a couple of hours at mid-day, when the 
sun is brightest. Assist plants in full bearing with frequent applica¬ 
tions of weak liquid manure, and earth up the roots occasionally. 
'Care must, however, be taken not to apply fresh horse droppings, 
if such are used, as a mulch too abundantly and too often, or the 
ammonia from them will injure the foliage. Plants in bearing for 
any great length of time should have the old exhausted soil removed 
with a small fork, not injuring the roots, adding rich lumpy compost 
previously warmed. Thin out the exhausted growths and encourage 
fresh bearing shoots. Expel worms with lime or soot water a peck to 
30 gallons of water, stirred well, letting it stand forty-eight hours, 
then watering with the clear liquid. Subdue canker at the collar and 
in the old growths by rubbing quicklime into the affected parts. Damp 
the floor at about seven o’clock in the morning, and again in the after¬ 
noon about three o’clock, syringing the foliage gently on warm afternoons, 
«nd keep liquid manure in the evaporation troughs. Stopping and 
training must be attended to at least once a week. Maintain a night 
temperature of 70°, 75° by day, 80° to 85° from sun, and close sufficiently 
•early for a rise to 90°, or even 100°, with abundance of atmospheric 
moisture. Ventilate moderately and early, avoiding sudden changes of 
temperature, and, above all, currents of cold air, which cripple the 
foliage and cause the young fruit to become deformed and to swell 
irregularly. 
Pits and Frames. —Maintain the requisite heat by the renewal or 
application of good linings. Train the growths rather thinly, pegging 
them down as required, stopping one joint beyond the show of fruit. 
Add fresh warmed soil to the ridges or hillocks as the roots extend. Be 
moderate in the application of water, as the nights are as yet cold, 
and employ thick night coverings. Admit a little air early, so as to have 
the foliage fairly dry before the sun acts powerfully upon it. The heat 
through the day may range from 80° to 85° with sun. Close early in 
the afternoon, no harm accruing if the temperature rise to 90° or 
D5° and more, if there is no rank steam, which must be carefully 
guarded against, a little ventilation constantly in case danger be appre¬ 
hended from it being desirable. 
Melons. —The earliest plants will have fruits set, or setting, on the 
'first laterals. During the setting period water should only be given to 
prevent flagging, and the atmosphere should be kept drier, with an 
Increase of temperature of about 5°, a circulation of warm air being 
■conducive to a good set. Fertilise the blossoms every day, pinching out 
the points of the shoots one or two joints beyond the fruit. When the 
fruits are set, and about the size of a Walnut, give the bed a thorough 
watering; in a day or two add rich rather strong loam, previously 
•warmed, pressing it down rather firmly, and again supply water. Stop 
the subsequent growth to one or two joints, removing superfluous 
shoots. If the bottom heat be increased 5°, or to 85°, it will assist the 
swelling of the fruit. The night temperature may be 70°, day 73° by 
artificial means, ventilating from that point, increasing to 85° or 90°, 
and closing at 83° sufficiently early to increase to 90°, or 95° or 100°. 
Syringe moderately at 3 P.M. on bright warm afternoon^, damping the 
house in the morning, and keep the evaporation troughs filled with 
liquid manure. Failing these, sprinkle available surfaces in the house 
with liquid manure before nightfall. Plants in restricted borders should 
have liquid manure, always in advance of the temperature of the house, 
and a mulching of rather lumpy manure on the surface. 
Late Plants.— Train the growths regularly, removing at least every 
alternate lateral, rubbing them off directly they are perceived, the 
remainder being left at the right and left side of the main stem, pinch¬ 
ing out the latter or primary stem after it has extended two-thirds of 
the required distance, increasing the supply of moisture both at the 
roots and atmosphere as the days lengthen. Pot seedlings, shift into 
larger pots, and plant out as required. Sow more seeds to afford plants 
for succession in proportion to the demands of individual establishments. 
In pits and frames a bottom heat of 80° should be secured to plants 
that are growing freely ; in newly made beds the bottom heat should be 
.■about 90°. Renew the linings as required. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDES. 
Planting Strawberries.— It is not yet too late to form fresh 
plantations of Strawberries. Any pricked out last autumn in nursery 
feeds will transplant readily now, and if not allowed to flower this 
season will develop into strong plants, much superior to and with less 
trouble than those layered in pots and put out early in August. There 
is no necessity to devote the whole of a good piece of ground to small 
Strawberry plants, as Onions may be sown or planted between them, or 
Lettuces, Kidney Beans, or other quick-growing crops may be assigned 
similar positions. Strawberries delight in a deep-worked, freely manured, 
yet firm root run, a loose rich soil being calculated to cause the produc¬ 
tion of leafy but not fruitful growth. For permanent beds the plant9 
may be put out 18 inches apart in rows 2 feet asunder, rather more 
space being allowed to the strong growers. Now is also a good time to 
purchase and plant new varieties of Strawberries. They can be closely 
and cheaply packed, and if taken good care of will give a crop of strong 
runners this season, a good stock being obtained by the autumn. On no 
account should weakly young plants, whether established or newly put 
out, be allowed to bear any fruit this season ; but every flower should 
be picked off as soon as it forms. 
Manuring Strawberries. — After the beds have been surface- 
hoed and the weeds raked off, the plants ought, unless previously too 
vigorous to be productive, to receive a liberal dressing of manure ; good 
guano and various special manures with soot freely added, sown around, 
but not among the crowns or on the foliage, will be washed-in by the 
April showers, and greatly benefit the plants. Much solid manure, 
especially when mixed with the soil, is apt to encourage rank leafy 
growth, but the special manures appear to benefit the crops only, fine 
bold trusses being thrown up well above the sturdy leaves when fertilisers 
are applied at the present time. Unfortunately these are of little 
service if the plants are dry at the roots, and an early mulching of 
strawy manure, or the best substitute available, is therefore very neces¬ 
sary, such coverings preserving the moisture, and also keeping the roots 
active near the surface, or where they are most wanted. Market growers 
only give one good mulching of strawy manure, and as this is washed 
fairly clean before the crops ripen the fruit is not soiled. In private 
gardens it may be advisable to add clean litter just before the crops 
commence ripening. 
Protecting Fruit Blossom.— Pears, Cherries, and Plums all are 
becoming active, and in most instances will flower well. As a rule trees 
of choice varieties are left unprotected, and it not unfrequently happens 
one late frost will undo the work of a whole year. In low-lying districts 
especially much harm is often done by late frosts, and those responsible 
will do well to protect as many of the trees as possible. Cotton or 
woollen blinds, if taken proper care of, last for many years, and their 
original cost might be more than saved in one season. Failing these 
materials common scrim canvas may be used, and the least that can be 
done is to protect the trees with doubled or tripled fish nets. Whatever 
is used ought to be kept clear of the trees with the aid of poles, other¬ 
wise a rough wind may cause the delicate flowers to be much injured. 
Heavy material should be drawn off the trees during warm days, but the 
fish nets do not shade to an injurious extent when left constantly over 
them. 
Birds and Fruit Buds. —Although bullfinches are very nume¬ 
rous, they appear to find plenty of food other than choice fruit buds. 
Where troublesome they are capable of stripping the trees in a few 
hours, and must either be destroyed or the trees closely netted. They 
are destructive among Peach, Nectarine, Apricot, Cherry, and Plum 
buds, as well as Pears, Apples, Gooseberries, and Currants. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Camellias. —As these plants finish flowering give them a thorough 
syringing with petroleum and water, 1 oz. of the former to each gallon of 
the lattei, if the plants are infested with scale. These insects are gene¬ 
rally active at this season, and are much easier destroyed than when they 
are practically in a dormant state. When plants are infested with 
scale there is usually to be found a black secretion on the surface of the 
leaves. The solution advised will loosen this, which can afterwards be 
readily removed by syringing with clean water. It will be necessary to 
shade them from the sun until the oil has evaporated. Those that have 
done flowering may be syringed twice daily. They must be assisted to 
make their growth as early as possible, then the wood has a good chance 
to become thoroughly ripened and the flower buds are almost certain to 
adhere firmly to the plants. 
Azaleas.— As these go out of flower place them in a temperature of 
55° to 60° where the atmosphere is moist and the syringe can be freely 
used. If there are signs of thrips on the plants syringe with a weak 
solution of tobacco water. Any unduly long shoots may be cut back if 
desired. The best means of preventing shoots taking the lead of others is 
to pinch them once or twice during the season of growth, or remove 
them entirely. Plants that are not to be potted may have a little 
Standen’s manure applied to the surface of the soil. It acts quickly 
upon the plants, and three dressings during the season of growth will 
have a beneficial effect. 
Callas. —Where it is necessary to increase the stock of these plants, 
which have flowered, the suckers may be removed from them. These, if 
placed in 3-inch pots, started into growth in gentle heat, and planted 
outside at the end of May or beginning of June, will make strong 
flowering plants by autumn. Keep plants which have done flowering in 
a cool place, and liberally supply them with water. 
Chrysanthemums.— All the earliest plants that were placed in 3-inch 
pots as soon as they were rooted will be ready for 5-iDch. If the plants 
have been grown cool from the time they were rooted they will be dwarf 
and sturdy ; if not already in cold frames they should be placed in them 
without delay. Most of the plants intended for yielding large blooms 
have three shoots growing strongly. Those for bushes are in the same 
condition, with the exception of weak-growing kinds, and should be 
